Brand new 2015 1.8l. Under load (up steep hill) engine making a rattling noise. Sounded a little like a bad bearing. Lifted hood and listened in driveway immediately after and noise seems to be coming from valve train (not ideal test as it doesn't emulate load). This is a noise that's developed in the last few miles, not from get go. It only occurs when engine is fully warmed up and under load.
View 5 RepliesThe sound is only there when the engine is under any load. If I am very careful I can raise through the RPM without the noise, but give it a little bit more gas and there it is. It sounds kind of like an exhaust leak, but I'm not sure.
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Listen closely right at 0:12-0:15. That is me accelerating for 3 seconds, and that sound like a rain stick is my engine.
2013 Elantra GT ...
I have a 14 GT base with manual and I've been noticing at idle (sitting at stop lights...foot on or off brake and or clutch...in or out of gear) it has a bit of a rough idle or stumble during the first mile or two...then its fine. It doesn't feel like it will stall and if I tap the gas I do not notice any difference in throttle response. RPM needle stays steady... is the just something that is normal? It doesn't bother me a lot... just noticeable. All that aside, except the occasional lifter noise at cold start (not always...which is odd) all is good.
View 6 RepliesWeird noise I am hearing with my mothers new Elantra she just picked up. When starting engine has a knocking noise, not kinding. Letting motor run for a few minutes it goes away but is concerning. I was wondering if there is an issue with the MPFI engine which i believe is new this year which replaced the GDI engine. Definitely does not sound normal to me. to me it sounds like a rode knock or hydro lifter issue. Are these engines known for this. My mother traded her 2012 civic for this with 4500 miles. She did not like the seats and dash board layout in it and we got a good deal on this car.
View 17 RepliesBrought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
Info: O2J 1.8t, Peloquin LSD, clutchnet 6 puck, VF mounts
Getting a vibration on driver's side during either accel or load up a hill after driving for 20 miles. It's related to distance driven versus engine warm or cold. I can feel it in the pedals, definitely driver's side.
Things checked:
-axles, replaced driver's side, no change
-transmission is full of fluid, looks good
-motor mount bolts tight
-called Peloquins, they said the diff would cause issues while turning and would occur anytime under load, not just when cold
Wheel bearings have about 15k on them and were INA's, and those shouldn't vibrate only on accel or load. I thought about the dogbone, the poly bushings in it are about 35k miles, but makes no sense why it would appear after driving 20 miles.
I have a '07 Sonata GLS with the 2.4-liter Theta engine and the 4-speed automatic. It has 52k miles on it and has always been serviced regularly. It's been a pretty decent car but is starting to feel a little tired, most notably the worn/bouncy suspension.
Anyway, the other day I was driving down the highway and gave it a little gas to pass a slower car. Doing 60 MPH it downshifted to 3rd (~2000 to ~3300 RPM) and I thought I heard a noise in the engine bay, but I wasn't sure. I ended up needing more power so put it to the floor and as it kicked down to 2nd at ~5000 RPM the rattly noise got a lot more pronounced. Driving around normally I don't hear it but any time I put it to the floor (merging/passing) I will hear the rattle. I can also hear it if I lock it in 2nd gear and give it full throttle up a hill at low speed, like you might do with a stick shift.
It seems like it only does it under load because if I rev it to ~4000 RPM in park in the driveway, there's no noise, even at full throttle. I know the V6s had tensioner issues but I haven't heard much about the 2.4s. I'm not super concerned as it is still under warranty but what might be wrong with it as this is my first Hyundai vehicle, especially in case the dealer can't replicate it.
It's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold). I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue. Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well. Should I have the batteries load tested first?
View 14 RepliesI have an engine noise on my 2000 Dodge Caravan with the 3.3 engine. It sounds a lot like the grinding of a rotating part. It occurs at start up, momentarily, then goes away. If I drop it in gear and start doing low speed maneuvering in the driveway, it comes back. If I turn on the AC it comes back. In all cases, the noise goes away at around 1200 rpm.
The noise occurs again, when I shut the engine down.The engine performs and runs smooth and normal otherwise. No stalling, stumbling, or bad gas mileage to report.
I can "feel" the noise with my hand, when I put my hand on the ac compressor bracket, or the intake manifold, or the valve cover. I've tried the listening through the stick method, and it seems to be coming from the front area of the engine. But I can't be sure. It is something internal. Let me describe:
I thought it was my AC compressor or clutch going bad. The fact that my AC had stopped working well, and was making jet engine noises at high rpm supported me decide this. I replaced the compressor. The AC works great now, and the jet engine noises went away. But the grinding noise is still there. As described.
I wishfully thought it was the belt tensioner or idler pulley. I replaced both of those. Noise still was there. I pulled off the serpentine belt, and started the engine. It made the noise, very briefly as it started, then went away completely. It made the noise again briefly as I shut the motor off. So it's still there without any of the accessories turning.
The noise is loud and obnoxious at idle when under load. It just can't be good. I've read theories about similar sounding problems, saying they could be loose timing chain, bad oil pump, slapping pistons, crank journals, flexplate/flywheels cracked.
I'm going to try doing an oil system flush, and then I'll change it out with a little thicker oil. See if that makes any difference in the noise. Currently I'm running 5w-30 Mobile 1. I think. I'll let you know if it changes anything. I'm also thinking I want to make a short video of the car idling and making the noise for my video camera. I'll post that on youtube and link it here.
I have a 2004 Toyota Matrix, 5 spd manual with 175,000 miles. It's been a great car, but about 4 months ago I noticed more noise than usual from the engine compartment. It sounds like someone dropped a noisy diesel engine in there! The noise is most noticeable on the highway when the engine is under greater load (e.g. up hill). The dealer told me it's the belt tensioner. I had that replaced, but the noise is still there, and it's getting worse. I recently had the car completely serviced, full tune up, transmission fluid changed, etc.
View 8 RepliesI recently bought a 2000 f150 4.6 with 105000 on it I notice when I was driving if the engine got under a load it whined. It does it every time and it does it being parked but not as bad. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesI usually drive with front defogger on because for some reason our Elantra GT like to fog. When I shut the car off, usually there's the normal sound of some vent or air dam closing. Well, there's a new noise while doing it; it seems like it's struggling to close and making a tap-tap-tap noise. I'm not talking about the normal electrical tapping noise when you shut the car off. It sounds like coming from the driver-side dash.
View 1 RepliesThe noise is more like a creaking noise than a metal on metal grinding noise. I just wanted to add, that I have this same problem with my 13' GT....I brought it into the dealer about 2 weeks ago. They drove it with me, he heard the noise and said...not sure...sounds normal. I said that is NOT a normal sound for breaks to making on a new car with 7500 miles on it. They brought it in, ended up "scuffing" the rotors up and said nothing else they could do.
That worked for about 10 days, but the noise it back again! I am glad I found this thread, i will be calling them today....They called me back and said i can drop it off next week for the day and they will give me a loaner for the day. I told them that the noise is NOT normal and not acceptable, especially on such a new car...
I had an issue with my 2011 6.7 this weekend and I'm clueless after doing the google search for info. My truck started overheating after driving it about 10 miles in tow with a light load (20 foot boat). So my first panic reaction is to stop and check the fluids which all check out as good on the levels if I am checking them correctly.
So it cools off and we go for another spin and now that I am paying more attention I notice abnormally high RPMs before it shifts into all gears and that the heat seems to be a by product of this. there is no abnormal vibrations of any type but it sounds like someone learning to drive a standard for the first time.
I does it almost every time. So I tried the manual shift option and it had no problem and no overheat. If it reaches the 6th gear without the overheat alert posting it runs fine but getting there seems to be an issue.
In the back of my mind I do remember hearing this high RPM before but I have a short drive to work and back so I didn't think much about it as I have definitely keyed in on it now. I have only had the truck a year and I do not know when the service was done last on the Transmission.
Here is a video I made of the "Blow off" noise I hear when accelerating/shifting (more than 50% throttle). Sounds kinda cool IMO
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The times are listed in the description of the video...
My Elantra has about 5,500 miles on it now. I went on a road trip up to Washington D.C. during spring break about two weeks ago.
Anyway, it has been making a squeaking noise when I turn right at around 15-20 mph. It makes a sound similar to a swing when its swinging. It's slightly high pitched and sounds like it's metal on metal. It's getting kind of annoying and I think I might take it in to have it checked out.
Picked up my brand new 2013 Elantra 2 nights ago. 51 Km's on it when I drove it off the lot. Immediately noticed it was making a very loud noise whenever I hit any road bumps, potholes, sewers, train tracks, etc.
I can't tell if it is coming from the front, or back of the car. Many of the threads on here seem to be talking about a common rear shocks issue? Also read a lot about faulty struts? Swaybar?
I had a new trailer hitch installed on my 2013 Hyundai Elantra Coupe last month...after a couple of days I noticed a vibration noise in the right rear...I took it in to the dealer, they said they hitch didn't fit right and the vibration was caused by the hitch...they recommended I take it back to the installer (e-trailer). So I took it back to e-trailer...they looked at it and said they work with the dealers to design the specs for the hitches and there shouldn't be an issue...so they say they found a piece of styrofoam that was loose in the fascia and that was causing the vibration...so tomorrow I'm going back to the dealer to have them see if they see the same problem...so far I'm getting the old 'it's not my problem'...I really don't care whose problem it is, I just want it fixed!
View 3 RepliesI might trade this '13 Elantra GT for a '14 or '15. Too many problems. I knew I shouldn't have bought a first year model.
When the engine is cold, the clutch slips. When it warms up, the clutch is strong like how it should be. Having a slipping clutch when engine is cold? My car only has 7,000 miles and I drive conservatively.
Snap or crack sound emanating from the front end whenever the steering wheel is turned or the suspension unloads/loads?
I've noticed it for awhile now but didn't think too much of it but now that it's warmed up enough for the windows to be down, it's starting to annoy me
I read the TSB a few months back regarding the rubber coupling in the MDPS unit but it seems more like a suspension noise to me.
In my 2013 Elantra, sometimes I hear the squeaky fan noise coming from under the glove compartment when i turned on the heat and it sounds like a cricket. It started around 1 week ago.. Also, rattling problem on the passenger side near around seatbelt.
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