Elantra GD (2013+) :: Nav System Locking Up / Low Memory
Oct 21, 2012
Had my GT for 2 days and the nav system locked up and a small Windows type box popped up in the top left corner of the screen saying low memory. This happened a few times even after shutting off and restarting the ignition. A while later the system started resetting itself. 2 or 3 times in about 30 minutes. I have a 32gig memory stick plugged into USB. Removed it but no change. I hope this isn't a sign of things to come. My first Hyundai. Other than that it's a very nice car for the $$. Averaging 31mpg on 1st tank but working hard to get that. Is there a master reset for nav system?
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Is there a way to completely format / reset the navigation radio. The dealer wants to replace the head unit on a week old car. Seems like you should be able to clear the memory. Im getting a low memory error and it locks up. I hate to have the dash torn apart on a new car. I need to clear the phone contact but can't get to the phone settings because of the low memory issue. I think the problem stems from syncing over 500 contacts from my phone. Or maybe the 32gig USB.
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Issue is nation-wide and is affecting vehicles equipped with nav and lexus enform.
Manual reset by disconnecting battery for 10 minutes will bring systems back online.
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2013 Santa Fe 2.2 Turbo Diesel. I left the smart key in its pocket. The battery went flat. Re-charged the battery. Vehicle won't start. Dash does not light up. Warning message displayed is:- Check Steering Wheel locking System. The steering wheel is not locked.
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I've got an unusual problem with my 2013 Elantra. It has been serviced about a month ago and all was well. I left my car sitting for a week, parked inside in an unheated garage, after driving in the rain. When I came back, I started it, let it run for a few seconds (less than 30) then shut it off.
When I then pushed the door lock button on the key fob to lock the door, I noticed the horn sounded muffled and was a lot quieter than usual. Still, the door locked and lights flashed.
When I went back about 24 hours later, and tried to start the car, it wouldn't start. The engine cranked, but would not catch. Electric seemed to work fine.
I tried a few more times, pushed the gas to the floor, and it eventually started. I drove it for 30 minutes or so and it ran fine. I shut it off for 30 min, and then started it up again no problem. And the weird thing was, when I went to lock the door, the sound the horn makes when you lock the door sounded normal.
My questions are this:
1) did shutting it off after one minute the first time make it unable to start the second time?
2) are they muffled horn sound and the inability to start related?
3) do I need to bring it in for service?
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS, with Push Start ignition.
Whenever I get out of my car for a few minutes, I keep the engine running, so what I do is, I keep the Smart Key inside the car, and remove the physical key trying to lock the doors from outside (I do this to keep the car cool from inside because the heat in my country is scorching!)...what I found recently is that as I do this, only the driver door gets locked, and all the other doors are still unlocked...I don't know if this is a fault or standard....
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I can set my seat to recognize what key is unlocking the door to set the drivers seat to registered position (1, 2 or 3). Now when I customize settings in the Nav area so that the driver's seat slides back partially or fully when shutting down car, it no longer recognizes the keys. When I cancel the slide back option in the Nav, it quickly recognizes the keys again. I like both options and do wish that there is a way to remedy this. Is this normal?
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I have a 2016 GS 350 with the Luxury package so there are quite a few adjustments for the seats which is nice. However, every now and then, the memory positions I have programmed go away and I have to be in Park and select the memory positions again. I turned off the easy exit option because every now and then the seat would just go down to the floor on its own. No one else has been driving the car.
I go into the dealer for the 5,000 mile check up in a couple of months and will have them look at it but thought I would check with this group as well.
We have an Acura MDS as well and on that forum, there was a technician that would post service bulletins which was very handy when taking the car in while under warranty. Did a quick search for service bulletins but did not see anything. Is there a thread for the service bulletin list?
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My GT is very quiet when running and I like that. However, the AC system seems noisy when it is on. When I turn on the fan and heater, I hear a distinct whining sound that increases in frequency as I increase speed. When I turn the fan off, the car is whisper quiet. Also, when I turn the AC on, I can hear what sounds like coolant circulating through the system. At first it sounded like it was coming from the glove compartment and I thought it might be associated with the glove-compartment cooling feature, but I don't believe it is. The noise is not unbearable but it is noticeable and distracting to me.
Is this a noisy climate-control system or is this something unique to my car.
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I am getting to check engine codes and I can't figure out what is causing them, one is P1296 cooling system malfunction, the other is P1654 Check DTC Memory of control panel ECU, any clues as to why I'm getting these, I did have a bad thermostat i changed that and it's still on, I also used the new prestone antifreeze for all makes and models, cause I am about 200 miles away from a dealership for g12.
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I have a 2013 Limited w/o nav, and 3 days ago I noticed my car won't honk after I lock it using the key fob, but it will lock it. How can I turn that feature back on? I like that reassuring honk! If I can avoid a trip to the dealership, that'd be best!
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Had this car for two years and I love it, but the central locking has been a bit glitchy since I bought it. Sometimes it works perfectly for weeks.
Sometimes it unlocks the driver door just fine, but a second click of the button won't open the other doors.
On a couple of occasions (today was the second time) it won't unlock any door. If I use the keyhole in the driver door to unlock that door, I have to hold the key to force the lock to stay up while I pull open the door with the other hand. If I let go of the key, it relocks itself.
After I manually unlocked and opened the driver door, I reached in and pressed the button on the console. It would not unlock the doors. This car has only one door keyhole, the one on the driver door. Locking always works on all doors, and it locks the doors itself as it should as I take off down the street.
When it is misbehaving, it misbehaves with either key and the console button does not work either, so I am pretty sure the problem not the transmitter.
If it always behaved as it did today, I would suspect that the microswitch in the driver door was shorting, and telling the system that the key was in the door and turned full right all the time. However, that would not explain why the usual failure is to open the driver door but not the others. Where is the receiver for the remote lock control?
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Is there a way to get the vehicle to honk or beep when locking the car with the remote? I tried single click, double click, and triple click on the lock button and the lights flight, but no audible feedback. Is this really not an option? I checked my horn, it works.
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I have a 2013 GTI and want to disable the honk when I lock it. How to do this or the code to disable through a vag com?
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I noticed that if I forget the lights on when locking the car, I don't get any warning. Is that normal? On the Toyota, you get that chime sound that tells you you forgot something like the key in the ignition or the lights on.
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I have an 07 SE, and I've been looking for a way to disable the factory Toyota chime and have my horn beep when I lock/unlock the doors. I believe the Asian models have this feature. Just wondering if it's something we can do with the USDM units.
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I locked my 2013, and noticed there was a delay in the single beep when I locked it, Weird, went on with my day. I just tried to lock it again, and there was no beep or signal light flash. I tried my other FOB, same thing. Unlocking works just fine. I tried turning the car on and back off again, no dice.
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2013 Black SEL 3.6, 35k mi
Noticed a couple times recently when I went back to my car that the door was unlocked as if I forgot to lock.
Played with it a little more today and realized when I'm pressing on the handle or the fob to lock the doors that 3/4 doors are locking - but not the driver's. Give it a couple tries with unlocking and locking and eventually I can get all 4 to lock. All will unlock just fine when I grab the handle.
I re-set the convenience features to factory settings hoping that would work but no dice. Is there a simple solution? Would rather not disassemble the door to blindly test the locking module.
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My 2013 Passat has some issues with the door locks. I'm at 92k kms now and no longer under full warranty. In June 2015, I had the locks fixed with the local VW dealer, while under warranty - 2 doors were failing to lock/unlock using the remote and would regularly attempt to lock while driving (could hear the motors in each door and lock light wouldn't light up as usual).
I no longer drive the vehicle regularly, it's essentially my gf's car now. She mentioned a couple weeks ago that the rear passenger side door wasn't locking, though the lock alarm still beeps. No motor sound this time. And again, while driving it constantly tries to lock the doors around 10-20kph (no light on locks shows up confirming locked).
So essentially it's been just over a year since the issue was fixed. According to the dealer it's an electronic issue and costs that much because the locking component in each door has to be replaced. Doesn't make sense to me if its electronic...
I haven't spoken to VW myself yet but it all sounds off to me. I'm a diesel mechanic and don't know a whole lot about the electrical side but why would I have the same issue in back to back years on something like door locks?
Also sounds like the heated mirrors might not be working. Is it a failed actuator on the driver side maybe?
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I folded down my rear seats on my 2012 Elantra and now I am unable to get them to lock back in normal position. It doesn't matter how hard I slam the seats I cannot get them to lock. This is the second time I folded down the seats and I am not sure if they locked from the last time I folded them down. Maybe it is the cold weather in NY that has an affect on the lock.
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I was uber excited to buy my first brand new truck in 09..... Amount numerous issues, defective rear window (fought with ford for 3 years never replaced under warranty), sync issues draining my battery, multiple O2 sensors replaced, multiple lights replaced and a blown drive shaft all under warranty. Now my warranty literally just ended, years not miles, just rolled 36k yesterday, ran out 3 years in November 12, now I'm having break issues.
A few weeks ago while driving, I released the gas and truck seem to slow faster than normal. Seemed kind of unusual but also began to noticed a drag on my mpg, about 2-4 mpg difference, depending on highway or in town. Now 3 weeks later, I feel grinding under breaking. Now it's beginning to make sense. I figure probably a stuck caliper. While driving with head out the window , freezing in IL, by the way, seems to be the drivers front. Checked rotors, outsides only as there are the guards preventing me from checking the back side. No visual or touch grooves ground into the rotors from the pads being worn out. Best bet is its the back side of the caliper that is locked.
Question 1, does this make sense, only one side of the caliper locking up? I had a caliper lock on my old GTP but the whole thing locked up.
Question 2, do I just suck it up and replace the breaks my self, gf's dad is a manager at O'rylies so I can get anything I want at cost, or do I go back to the dealer and bitch about mechanical problems being constant with my new now only weeks out of warranty truck? I read some horror stories about clogged lines and numerous other issues causing calipers to lock. I don't feel like replacing my whole break system, lines, calipers and all just to make sure the problem is fixed. At 3 years this seems ludicrous.
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