Elantra GD (2013+) :: Immediate Stall After Startup Then Engine Turns Over And Does Not Start
Nov 10, 2015
I have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
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I just started to have some idle problems with my 2013 Elantra GLS auto 1.8 that has 10k miles.
I went to the gas station to fill up the tank since the gas was very low (30 mile range). I filled up the tank, started the car and the engine began to stumble and idle poorly like it was about to stall. I put the car in drive and the engine stalled. I restarted the car and it ran normally.
The car will now briefly idle poorly when I'm at a stop light. The car will be at a stop light idling and running normally. Suddenly, the tach will go down to 200 rpm and then up to 1200 rpm, like it is about the stall. Then it will idle steadily and be back to normal. This has happened about three times over the past two weeks.
What may be causing this intermittent idle problem?
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My Mom has a 2009 Hyundai Elantra, 25k, good car no problems until yesterday. Turn the key and it cranks (turns the engine over for a second) then the starter kicks off (spins real and stops spinning the engine). It won't start like this. The car only has 25k on it, with the Hyundai 100k warranty.
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We just swapped engines on a 2014 Santa Fe Sport but it won't start now. Old engine had 70k miles, new one has 25 k miles. Wondering if the swap could have tripped a fuel shutoff switch or something simple. Its not throwing any codes, but I think it has to run first before it would give a reading. Turns over but wont start. Previous engine ran but had internal lower engine problems and metal in the oil. There is plenty of spark but it doesn't seem to be getting fuel. We hear the fuel pump prime so we know that works.
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Yesterday after I left work, i started the car and left like i always do. It wasn't crazy cold or anything, car was sitting there all day while at work, but was around 50 degrees. Anyways, i got about 2 blocks and came to a light to take a right, when i stopped at the light the car just died!?!?! I was like WTF...all the lights were lit up on the dash, i tried to start it, nada. I then put it in Park, and tried and it started right up. Got home no problems, went out after work, no problems, got to work no problems?!?!?!? Just curious, gonna call them today as i am due for an oil change...
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I have a problem with my F250. The engine is turning, rail pressure 400kpa, but it does not jump at. Injectors are tested at bosch. High and Low Fuel Pressure Pump are new.Sensors and pressure regulator also. Compression is also ok on all cylinders.
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What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
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My sister has a 2001 Prius w/ 150k miles. She asked me if I could shut off her check engine light. From what she tells me 1-2 times a year on very hot days (high 90s) when she starts the car it will stumble and stall (been happening since 03 when she got it).
I took it to autozone to get the codes which were:
P0300 - I assume all the misfire codes are from it stalling
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304
P1636
P3002
Since she said it was normal for the car I just cleared the codes for her. She did have this checked out one time at a dealership when the car was under warranty and they found nothing wrong and blamed it on the weather.
I searched the forums for 1636 and 3002 codes the 12v battery seems like it could be a likely culprit (it is the original battery as far as she knows). A few weeks passed while I was researching the codes and the battery options and she had another problem. (still haven't ordered the battery yet)
She says the car loses engine power 1-2 times a week (she drive 4-500mi a week). The dash stays lit up and the power comes back quickly. Sometimes while accelerating it will just stop accelerating and then go back to normal, or on the highway it will slow down and then be back to normal. Check engine light is back on and the new codes are:
P0420
P1636
P3002
I'm going to get a new battery ordered today but I'm kind of skeptical that it has anything to do with this new problem.
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I have an Elantra 2013, the issue that I face is that when I turn OFF the A/C, the recirculation turns off by itself which I don't want as it will allow dust to accumulate through the open vents when the Car is parked overnight.
So each time I turn off the a/c, I need to press the recirculation button as well so I can turn off the car with recirculation ON. Doesn't happen in other cars..
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2013 Elantra with 62k miles. I am dealing with a strange issue where I experience sudden engine shutoff and no-crank no-start situation when I attempt to restart. This typically happens during warmer weather (above 95F / 35C).
When the engine shuts off while i'm driving, the following symptoms occur:
-Temperature gauge (all bars) disappear
-Shift level selection disappears from dash
-stability control light is illuminated
During that state, I'm unable to restart the engine (even when the level is in park or neutral). Anytime the attempt to restart, the following symptoms occur:
-all of the above symptoms when engine shuts off
-TPMS light is flashing
-engine does not crank when attempting to restart.
-Unable to move shift lever from Park when key is in ON position, even when depressing the brake pedal (have to use shift lock release to get it out of park into neutral). Trying to start the car in neutral makes no difference.
The car stays in that strange state anywhere from 5 minutes to several hours. After that, I'm able to start the car and drive it for 10-60 minutes, until above issue repeats.
The issue is NOT any of the following:
-Battery
-Starter
I know that some users have reported a similar issue due to a bad inhibitor switch, but with that issue, only the gear selection disappears from the dash (while the temp gauge and other functions remain normal). Could it possibly be a bad ECU?
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Last night when I started my car before heading home from work I noticed that the engine clunked a couple of times, as if it were slowly combustion or back firing in two cylinders. The car started up fine; however, I've never heard the engine do that before. I don't know if it is because it has been cold up here the last few days (-12C (10F) day time highs) or if there's something else wrong. My EGT has just under 60,000km (37,200mi).
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS, with Push Start ignition.
Whenever I get out of my car for a few minutes, I keep the engine running, so what I do is, I keep the Smart Key inside the car, and remove the physical key trying to lock the doors from outside (I do this to keep the car cool from inside because the heat in my country is scorching!)...what I found recently is that as I do this, only the driver door gets locked, and all the other doors are still unlocked...I don't know if this is a fault or standard....
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Car: Elantra 2002 GT
5 Speed Manual
318000km
Kept all recommended service checks
Just week ago strange occurrence of the following problem started. Car is Idling No Problem, Running in any speed, accelerating no problem. Driving on Highway one day engine started stall (check Engine popup stall) but I didn't push the clutch and its restarted and run and again after while come on and stall and restarted and run and after just running no problem.
Removed Fuel pump, check the tank, nothing visible, I put water remover in the tank refuel to the full tank, car is running. Driving for two days, no problem. Today I drove on the highway and its happened again, after 3-4 stall car is running smoothly again.
I have OBD reader with me, no codes, no stored codes...nothing. No battery failure as the clock and radio didn't reset. Drove around the bumpy street for 30 minutes, nothing as I thought some bad relay.
What I should try next? (HV for spark plugs, fuel pump is running smoothly and has pressure, dirty injection?)
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I purchased my 2013 SF 2.0 Turbo SE in August 2013. Up until then, I was a long time Toyota owner. I've very satisfied with the SF, except I've been having an intermittent issue since I bought the vehicle.
Maybe 3-4 times a month, out of the blue, when I making a left hand turn, there is a hesitation when I press the accelerator. The hesitation lasts for about a second or so, but when there's traffic coming at you while you're making the left turn, it can be quite scary and the second feels like forever!
The hesitation feels like there is absolutely no power and the engine will stall. It never does. I've had it back to the dealer/garage for diagnostics several times but they can't seem to find anything wrong. And they keep charging me for the diagnostics! This occurs in ECO mode and non-ECO mode.
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I have a 2013 Golf TDI with 2070 miles on it. For around 2-3 weeks, I've noticed that it intermittently will idle rough, shakes, etc, as if it is about to stall out, but stays running and drives normal. I figured it was a typical Diesel thing and wasn't too worried about it. However, today, this happened, and I got an engine light. Yikes! I made an appointment for it but need to wait till after the 4th for it to be looked at. What's up here? Is it a regen cycle? Timing issues? Am I doomed with my Golf TDI?
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I own a 2002 Hyundai Elantra and I was driving it it started decelerating but my foot was on the gas and it died I tried starting it but it did not start. we tried spraying starting filed in the engine and still nothing.
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We have a 2007 Certified Pre-Owned Hyundai Elantra that overall we're quite happy with. Several weeks ago, the engine light came on, and after a nightmarish week (the shop put in a faulty O2 sensor, although we didn't know it at the time - the engine light just kept coming back on. Took it to dealer, who I prefer not to go to -- it's far, for one thing -- and they said the O2 sensor was faulty. Dealer replaced it, got my money back from the shop, and no more engine light).
HOWEVER, the exact same day that the engine light came on for the very first time, it took me several tries to turn on the car. This happens sporadically, and it's taken up to 6 tries to start the car. (No stalling, though). My wife has had no problems at all with her key, although she drives the car somewhat less than I do, but not by much. She thinks it might have something to do with my key. I think it's related to the O2 sensor, although that issue is now fixed (I hope) and I'm still having trouble starting the car.
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Can not get it to start. Turns over. Replaced wires, coils, ECM, check fuses and fuel pump is on. Power to coils.
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I have a 2013 F150 XLT 4X4 with the 5.0. It has 53k miles on it and I purchased it new. A few days ago I tried staring my truck, and on the 5th attempt it finally started. Well I went and replaced the battery because it tested weak. It happened again this morning and it didn't start. I had to have it towed to a mechanic. It turns over strong so I'm thinking it may be a fuel problem. It's not a security issue regarding the smart key. I tried my wife's key and still It didn't start.
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Steps to reproduce:
1) Start Car (reproduceable with A/C on & off)
2) Wait for wind-up whine (starts out low, then speeds up, then stops) -
I attached MP3 and Wav files in .zip attached so you can hear the noise - recorded on my phone). posted on Youtube ....
Listen to first six seconds. My sound file has the noise for a slightly longer period.
My car started doing this about a week after purchase. It's been consistently doing this every morning. In high elevation, colder climate the sound is louder and longer. Car's been to service 4 times. Service Trip summary:
1) Returned as cannot reproduce
2) Replaced Starter (even though sound happens After start)
3) Replace belt tensioner
4) Service stop, tech said he would contact his rep - rep said no fix "it's normal- related to component in timing chain". (Huh?)
Service tech said he's heard a few of the 2012 Elantra's with this noise.
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So I had my first oil change this past weekend at the dealer. I just noticed that the engine whine during my AM start-up is gone. They must have done something else to my car besides the oil change.
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