Elantra GD (2013+) :: ESC Control Jammed Brakes On Highway
Jun 28, 2015
I have 2013 Hyundai Elantra GL which is not even 2 years old. a month ago I took my car for auto detailing to a cheap place to save some money. I noticed that after the auto detailing some of the buttons would not work on the steering wheel and the radio would turn on and off by itself. I also could not turn on the front seat heating ( which resolved by itself).
I also had to change the rear routers and front break pads due to pass out of province inspection in Edmonton. Yesterday the ESC started blinking and the car would not pick up any speed above 60 km/hr. This issue was resolved in the morning by turning the ESC off.
I took my family and took the highway and the issue started again, I turned the ESC again as soon as I pushed the breaks a bit , the system JAMMED my breaks ( THIS WAS SO SCARY) considering I was at 100 km/hr and my wife and 3 kids were with me.
I called the dealer and dropping the car off but I thought people should know of this issue , the car steered right and left and handling it was so hard. My family is so scared to even sit in this car anymore.
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I just purchased a 2013 Elantra GT, 3 days ago. I was driving down the highway and my check engine light came on. There is only 480 miles on my car! I know it's not a gas cap. I haven't even put gas in it since I drove it off the lot. Is there a way to check for the code thrown without a scanner? I use to have a jeep liberty and I could click the key over 3 times an the code would pop up.
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I have a 2013 elantra with 42,200 kms. Recently I've been hearing a creaking nose while driving. Sounds like it is coming from the front driver side. Sound gets worse turning and speeding up on the highway on ramps. At highway speed the sound gets faster and almost sounds like a tapping noise.
At first I thought it was a strut but the strut feels stiff when pushing down on corner of car and I can't make the noise without driving. Sounds like maybe a ball joint to me?
I'm booking an appointment with the dealer tomorrow. I'm assuming that if problem is ball joint that it would be covered under warranty and not considered a wear and tear item as there's only 42k on the car.
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I just bought this camry recently, it's an 2008 SE 4-cylinder with about 95k on it. Everything is fine on the car with the exception of one thing. Whenever I start it after a prolonged period of it being off, say in the morning or sometimes even having it off for an hour and then starting it again, when I start it, a loud grinding/scrapping noise comes from the front of the car.
This noise lasts for a good 30-60 seconds and as the car picks up speed it disappears. It just happens whenever I start it. Now I'm not sure that if the brakes or jammed or is it something to do with the transmission. I mention the transmission because during the drive, the car seems under a lot of pressure as if towing a large trailer and has trouble accelerating. At times when going downhill, it actually is slowing down as opposed to picking up speed and as soon as I let off the gas the speed drop from significantly.
I know this isn't normal because I used to an 2005 Camry LE 4-cylinder. So I know how the engine and transmission behave.
I took it the dealer recommended mechanic and he said that everything is fine. He's a nincompoop really. I took it to my mechanic and he said that the axle and bearing need to be changed on the passenger side and just the axle on the drivers side. My mechanic is a family friend and is skilled in his trade so I know he's not trying to shaft me.
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For the 4th time now my cruise control doesn't come on (had the car almost 4 months, with 6500 miles). The main "cruise" light comes on, but when I hit the "set" button nothing happens.
All except one time I had to remove the key before it would work again. One time I kept trying the "set" button and it finally worked. It's so infrequent, they'll never be able to recreate at the dealership. Not sure if I should just try to report it for documentation purposes, so if it happens to be permanent after warrantee expires hopefully it will be covered.
Back in the day, cruise was controlled by vacuum pressure but I don't know if that's the case any longer.
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The noise is more like a creaking noise than a metal on metal grinding noise. I just wanted to add, that I have this same problem with my 13' GT....I brought it into the dealer about 2 weeks ago. They drove it with me, he heard the noise and said...not sure...sounds normal. I said that is NOT a normal sound for breaks to making on a new car with 7500 miles on it. They brought it in, ended up "scuffing" the rotors up and said nothing else they could do.
That worked for about 10 days, but the noise it back again! I am glad I found this thread, i will be calling them today....They called me back and said i can drop it off next week for the day and they will give me a loaner for the day. I told them that the noise is NOT normal and not acceptable, especially on such a new car...
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I have an Elantra GT SE with automatic climate control. I would like to know if there is a way to disable the automatic A/C on/off with our system. The problem is that even if the air is cooler outside, the air conditioning is automatically turned on and the fuel economy drops. (I know that we can do this for the base model (to turn off air conditioning while using the defroster).
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I have a problem with my 2005 hyundai elantra 2.0L . Every time I turn it on and try to drive, the steering wheel is kinda jammed. It wouldn't turn all the way. And I can here some noises from the hood as i turn it more. Sometimes i have to wait for it till it heats up a little then the steering could turn smoothly. Some guy told me it could be one of the belts (which i don't know which one).
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I have a 2013 elantra gt. Recently my steering wheel controls just stopped working, I'm over miles on the warranty so if I take it to the dealer it'll cost a fortune. I looked through the manual to see if I can find what fuse the controls would be on but I can't seem to figure it out. I'm hoping it's just a fuse issue not electrical. How to fix it.. My ocd is kicking in cause I can't change the trip back to miles to empty. What fuses to check. My next idea was to beat up the steering wheel...
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I almost always use my cruise control. When I turn off my car then restart under 2 minutes, the cruise control doesn't work UNTIL I stop completely.
When I turn off my car over 2 minutes then restart, cruise control works fine.
Is something not resetting right or something? It doesn't bother me.. I just have to restart my car after 2 minutes so my cruise control works.
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Where about is this filter located? is it the cabin filter in the glovebox?
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I've relocated back to Texas, and I've noticed since the roads here are much older than the streets in Vegas, if I'm braking while going over a bump in the road my brakes seem to slip and re-grip while coming to a stop. It doesn't happen every day but it happens enough to make my heart skip a beat and think I'm about to die
I do plan on taking this to the dealership because it is pretty big problem, I have a 2013 Limited Elantra
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I recently got a CEL with a P2096 error code on my 1.8L 2013 Elantra GT auto with 18K miles. This indicates some kind of oxygen sensor discrepancy between the pre- and post-catlyst O2 sensors which could be caused by a bunch of things. I cleared the code and it hasn't returned in a day of driving.
I did a quick internet search and there appears there might be a TSB out for revising the ECU software for this problem, possibly filed under TSB-13-FL-006 or Hyundai bulletin 356015.
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My Prius just stalled out on highway from cruise control @ 65 mph, so I coasted luckily off an exit, and before coming to complete stop the whole dash went black with exception of power steering failure warning light. I had it towed, at my cost of $95, to dealer for troubleshooting. They found that the fuel sensing system/indicator had worn, and cost for repair is $422+, as not under any warranty or recall. Fuel sense indicator worn out @ 105,145 miles...
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Change rotors , pads and calipers and I still get a vibration when I hit the brakes slowing down on the highway.
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My 05 Grand Am has about 75,000 miles on it. It has been a good car minus the occational strut mount replacement and front wheel bearing assembly. This cruise control problem has been going on for a couple years now.
It will just randomly quit while i'm going down the highway. Sometimes it wont do it for weeks, or sometimes do it 10 times in a 30 mile drive. Sometimes it will resume after i press the button once, sometimes i can hit it many times, sometimes it just seems to quit for a minute or two.
The wife and i took a 3 hour roadtrip this weekend and i was fuming after hitting the resume button dozens of times. We had alot of interstate traffic to dodge, alot of people on my butt. Thats not the greatest time for the cruise to be having problems.
She had it at the dealership right before the warranty was up and they said they "think" they know what it is, but their insurance company wont let them just change out $500 parts just because they "think" it's that part. I didn't hear about this at first from her or we would have made them fix it. What good is a warranty if they wont fix the problem you have?
I was hoping this is a common occurance with an easy fix. I am pretty good at working on my own vehicles so i can check certain parts if need be. What seems to be the most common problems to check when your cruise control has these problems?
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Well, I only put on about 2 k miles since Lexus replaced all of the control arms under warranty. Now again I feel the same symptoms. Some rattle when going over bad bumps on the right side.
And when driving on the highway and tapping brakes, I get a thud. A thud I am familiar with when the Strut bar bushings are bad or going. Its not too bad, but I would not expect a brand new front end to feel like that.
I am due for an oil change in a few weeks. Again I'll have to leave the car for days and drive a loaner.
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I just bought a 2007 Sonata V6 (GL or GLS). Before buying the car, the last owner had the rear brakes "serviced" because the mechanic said the brakes were "sticking" - charged the old owner $300 for it. When I am on the highway and I brake, the rear brakes shudder. Do you think the shudder is because the rear brakes are still sticking, or because it needs new rotors?
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I got a 2013 Hyundai Accent se Hatchback, and just recently noticed that when I drive on the highway it kinda sways side to side too often. it happens on the highway, never when driving in the city. I'm guessing its the wind, but when I look around I don't even see trees moving or anything so I dont think the wind is that strong. we also have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra and it does the same thing every now and then, but it's very rare.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Sienna with approx. 130k miles. Recently I am noticing when driving on the highway that I get a humming/ringing sounds. It gets louder and softer as I drive. It is not always there but when it does make that sound, it is when I am over 65 mph. If I tap the brake it immediately stops but then if I hit the gas it starts again. Also sometimes when I tap the brakes (not on the highway) I do get a screeching sound. I've taken it to the mechanic and he checked my brakes and says they are fine. I just got two front tires thinking it was that but it is still there. Is there anything else that I should consider? Should I go get a second opinion on the brakes since the sound stops as soon as I tap the breaks?
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I recently bought a 2007 Sonata V6, and the brakes pulsate (when applied) at highway speeds, so I am looking to replace the front rotors & pads. I have been told that the OEM rotors/pads aren't great & that as a result many owners have a brake pulsating/vibration issue.
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