Elantra GD (2013+) :: Auto Trans Clutch Slip?
Sep 6, 2014
I have a 13' GT with an automatic trans and 15,000 miles.
While getting onto the highway yesterday I was in D (not + -) and I was probably in 4th gear and hit the gas pedal maybe 60-70% down and my rpms shot straight to 6-7k but I didn't get any acceleration. I let the rpms drop and it drove fine after. Pretty sure I was smelling burnt clutch too (kind of unfamiliar with that scent, I've never slipped a clutch before).
I should probably take it to the dealer for them to look at it, but am worried it will be a 1-2 week thing and I'm not sure if I'd get a loaner.
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I bought it for cheap. not shure what tranny is in it. So when you you put it in od it will take off and shift fine all the way to od. getting going and drive it a few miles and it will slip out of od into to neutral. I can put it in drive and it does fine. I did lose all forward gears earlier tonight though. First time it did this. OD is the only gear it slips out of. it willl re engage below 40 mph. But I usually just shift to drive and go on.
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Alright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
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Everything was working perfectly. I stopped at McDonalds to get a bite to eat. When I left McDonalds, the car would not shift out of first gear. I have checked the transmission fluid and it appears to be good. I shifted from Park to low, and low back to park several times making sure there was no problem there. I noticed it also kicks hard when going into reverse, and it kicks hard when going into drive. When it is driven it will not shift out of first gear.
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I've relocated back to Texas, and I've noticed since the roads here are much older than the streets in Vegas, if I'm braking while going over a bump in the road my brakes seem to slip and re-grip while coming to a stop. It doesn't happen every day but it happens enough to make my heart skip a beat and think I'm about to die
I do plan on taking this to the dealership because it is pretty big problem, I have a 2013 Limited Elantra
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For a few months now I have been hearing a tap clunk type noise coming from under the car when I shift the auto trans into drive and reverse. Also sometimes when the car is slowing when driving I hear the tap sound as it shifts into first. I drove in by my local dealer and they listened to it and said Elantra transmissions can get noisy there is nothing wrong. They told me I have plenty of Warranty left so if something happens I will be covered.
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This lady at work has a 2011(?) Elantra sedan and she said she complained about her manual trans. not being smooth. She said the Hyundai mechanic adjusted something in the clutch and her transmission became smooth again. What part needs to be adjusted? She doesn't know and I would definitely like to know because I know it is not normal.
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Just realised the other day that the back door/seats lights for my car never turn on when i open the back doors. Been like that since i got the car. Owners manual says when the map and room light switch beside map light is in middle position, the lights turn on with doors opening. the map light turns on when i open front doors, but the room lights in the back only turn on if i hit the switch manually but they stay on.
If the back door/ seat lights are supposed to be auto on off with door opening, closing? Or is this a feature that did not come with my model.. I have a Canadian 2013 GLS GT with the panoramic roof so room lights are at the sides of roof.
*Also something completely unrelated, noticed in owners manual the maintenance schedule for replacing spark plugs is 168,000km for normal driving conditions and 'more frequently' for extreme conditions.
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2013 Elantra GT ... Odd sound when shifts at higher RPMs. Like a chirp, or a tiny blow off valve from an old home turboed civic. Some sort of leak? When the engine is under load, it sounds like I may have some sort of minor exhaust leak, though that is nowhere near audible in the video. Very curious as to what this is.
[URL] ...
Listen right at 0:14 when it shifts.
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Weird noise I am hearing with my mothers new Elantra she just picked up. When starting engine has a knocking noise, not kinding. Letting motor run for a few minutes it goes away but is concerning. I was wondering if there is an issue with the MPFI engine which i believe is new this year which replaced the GDI engine. Definitely does not sound normal to me. to me it sounds like a rode knock or hydro lifter issue. Are these engines known for this. My mother traded her 2012 civic for this with 4500 miles. She did not like the seats and dash board layout in it and we got a good deal on this car.
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I have a 2013 elantra, manual transmission. I have about 17k miles on it and it's 8months old. For some reason my clutch pedal is really loud. At 12k my power steering rack was replaced and I wanted the clutch addressed then but they didn't address it and claimed it was fine. Then at 16k my master cylinder was replaced. Within four hours the sounds came back. They are not addressing what is making the sound properly and claim it is okay to drive on it. My issue is with all of these crazy sounds that don't belong how am I supposed to tell if there is an issue with my clutch.
I drive about 30k a year. There could be damage happening and I will be expected to pay for it because it wasn't addressed because with my clutch making sounds I won't know if there is something abnormal, usually having a sound tells you that. I also get a pull to the side some times and when it happens I feel like I don't have control of my steering for a split second. I have owned two previous hyundai vehicles, and many standard vehicles and never had these sounds from a clutch. Whether it is the bushings or not it shouldn't be making sounds. Engineering should be trying to problem solve this, but instead hyundai hands me back a defective vehicle
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I might trade this '13 Elantra GT for a '14 or '15. Too many problems. I knew I shouldn't have bought a first year model.
When the engine is cold, the clutch slips. When it warms up, the clutch is strong like how it should be. Having a slipping clutch when engine is cold? My car only has 7,000 miles and I drive conservatively.
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When we first bought our white 2013 GT used (21K kms) it made a slight moaning sound when you would start off from a stop while engaging the clutch. Dealer was able to replicate and diagnosed it as a bad clutch release bearing. Replaced it and moaning sound was gone. Free under warranty. Been fine ever since and car is now at 75k kms.
I just drove our other GT (black 69k kms) for the first time in ages as normally another family member drives it. I immediately noticed the same moaning sound when starting from a stop and releasing the clutch. I'm betting it's the same bearing. Is this a common issue?
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I own a 2002 W8 passat b5.5 that had issues from the used car dealer i had bought it from. I had 2 new motors installed over the period of about 13 months . The first motor had a bad torque converter and seemed to also cause my trans to slip. I am not sure if that is the direct cause of the trans slip going from 2nd to 3rd gear. The second motor dropped 4 valves in the cylinder "3" and cracked the starter. I had all the work done by the VW dealer that i used to work at.
As of today i seem to hear a knocking from idle to 5,000rpms, which is the highest ill push it. Now I know that a lot of of the W8 had issues with the torque converters. my current engine has just about 4k miles on it and I know vw warranties this motor up to 12k miles. That is not my concern, my concern is why do these motors keep failing under normal every day use in my particular vehicle?
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220,000 miles, auto transmission slip in drive, reverse ok. What needs to be fixed and what will it cost?
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I got a 2000 ford explorer with 151k on it... Since iv had the truck (5yrs) its always had a slight slip around 3rd going to 4th. The tran is auto!!
I use to be able to jump in and take off but here lately i have to let the truck idl for a few sec or up to a min before i can take off (warm or cold). This just started a month ago...
The trans fluid smells burned and it has be 2yrs since iv changed fluid and filter in the tran...Everything other then that iv kept up to par. What do you think should i start looking for something new or just change filter and fluid????
I know the truck has had a good life so I am starting to think the tran maybe trying to go.... My friend has a 85 dodge ram charger suv not sure the miles but its auto as well....It has a 318. Other then a small dent the thing look good... It has some kinda vacuum leak major but doesn't effect running. He told me the leak is from something he had removed when we left CA that they said he had to have for smog?
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Have a 2009, 2500HD 4X4 23K miles that has an occaisional/intermittant trans slip when shifting from 2nd to 3rd (I think). It always seems to catch me by surprise so it may be 2-3 or 3rd to 4th. Shift point seems to be around 1800rpm, engine revs to about 2500 during the slip. It's always shortly after starting up and the trans is not necessarily up to full operating temp. I've noticed it happening in the dead of summer as well as the dead of winter.
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Have a 1997 Ford Aerostar van 4.0 L v-6 RWD 119,754 miles. Auto Transmission starting to slip alot in overdrive. Fluid and filter changes at 86,119miles. Have a Haynes Repair manual that only cover vehicles to 1996... Talks about the transmissions A4LD 4-Speed that uses electronic controls integrated into the on-board EEC-IV system.. Rather that covers my 1997 I don't know. Fluid looks very clean on dipstick. Crawled under van.... On side of transmission #P97GT7006BBR 750Nn. Took to a national brand Transmission chain.... Said trans overdrive wearing out. Anything else I can check or am i getting ripped off ?
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2011 SE leased in December 2010. I Now have 14,000 miles and my trans has started to slip.
First slip was yesterday on a a fully warmed motor while I was accelerating at a normal rate of speed. I am guessing the car was in 2nd gear (25mph) and the rpms shot all the way up to redline. I let off the gas, coasted for a few seconds and the trans engaged the gear and I kept driving. No cel
Today the same thing happened under the same conditions but this time when the trans re-engaged the gear, the car jerked forward pretty violently.
About 15 minutes later this happened again but at highway speeds (65mph) while cruising. Again, violent jerk and a thump when the trans caught the gear.
After all this I have no CEL. I know if I bring the truck to the dealer they are going to give me the old, "we cant reproduce the problem." Once the trans starts to slip like this the damage has already been done and its just a matter of time before I am stranded on the the side of the road.
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So long story short, my clutch is not disengaging all of the way, but only sometimes.... I have replaced clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder, new stainless steel clutch line and new clutch master cylinder all within this month. The same issue has been occurring prior to replacing all of this and also after replacing all of this. I've bled the system (with a power bleeder) more times than you can count on both of your hands so there is no way there is air in the system.
More details : The clutch doesn't slip in any gear. Stop and go traffic in first gear is really the only time I notice it not disengaging. I can't pull it out of 1st gear when it happens so I have to shut the car off to get it out of first gear. When it's stuck in first gear with the clutch pushed in (on a flat surface) and I let off of the brake the car creeps forward. Not at full speed like if I were to release the clutch pedal all the way but its still semi engaged enough to make the car move.
Replacing everything theoretically should have fixed all issues, but it hasn't. The only thing I didnt replace was this piece of the factory clutch line.
Tomorrow I am going to take the stainless steel clutch line and run it straight to the clutch master cylinder bypassing that weird silver box and hope that fixes it. As a side question what does that silver box do anyways?
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Looks like my clutch is starting to slip a bit at ~50K, after a good bit of HPDE track usage over the last few years, and maybe some poor shifting by me. Anyway, want to replace with a stronger aftermarket unit that can stand up to track events, and am planning to go with a lightweight flywheel as well.
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