This hot blond was stranded at the store's parking lot. Her VW had a dead battery I jump started it for her. When I connected the cables, my alternator was whining very loud.
Did I damage my alternator or did I put too much load on it? When I heard the whine, I pressed the accelerator then told her to start her car. Success but I am worried I shortened the life of the alternator.
Ok so a few days ago when I was at an ATM i stopped and revved my engine, i could hear a whining sound like bee/supercharger type. It gets pretty loud when i rev the engine and you could hear it whine down as the rpm drops. Now I put it in Sport mode and on drive and when I hit the gas I could clearly hear the whining noise even in the cabin, specially when I let off the gas and let the Sport mode keep the revs up high.
Pretty sure it has done this since I bought it, but I always have music on so maybe that's why I didn't hear it til now.
I replaced my GF's water pump, timing belt, tensioner and roller on her 05 Elantra. WHen I started the car up I can hear a loud whine from the belt.
Everwhere I searched I read that it's too tight.
But in this video: [URL] ....
At around 9:11, when the guy starts the car it's the same exact whine? Is this normal or something with a brand new belt? Or did he tighten it too much? Or is it because her timing belt covers are missing the rubber grommets, and there is a HOLE in the side of one of them. So am i getting the full brunt force of the timing belt?
I just purchased my new Elantra 2 weeks ago. A few days later, just after I started it first thing in the morning, it began making a loud flapping noise (seemed to be coming from under the hood). It's been doing it every morning since. The dealership said they couldn't hear anything unusual (after keeping it overnight, then starting it up first thing the next morning).
View 1 RepliesI have 1,600 miles on my elantra and this sound just started. On initial starting, when the engine is cold, there's this loud low pitch then high pitch sound. It only lasts for 1.5 seconds but it's loud. What could it be?
View 3 RepliesMy X keeps needing to be jumped and after being jumped it runs like a top as usual. Took it to Autozone and had them hookup their little portable doohikie and told me the battery is fine but the alternator should be pushing out 14a and it's only pushing 13? Didn't realize 1aI made that big of difference but whatever. I am taking the alternator off in a few minutes and I'm gonna have it bench tested to confirm the output.
Is there a heavier duty alt that I can get? I will be pulling an RV before too long so I'd like to get one that's gonna last. Btw, 2000 excursion limited v10 gas 6.8...
A co worker gave me an 1986 F-150 5.0 302 with 225,000 miles that he had sitting for 1 year in driveway. He never put the new alternator in that he bought. I towed it to my house and put the alt. in jumped the battery and it started but idle was horrible. turned the idle screw to get bad gas burned off.
Whenever I shut it off or it died from idle I would have to jump it. So, I put new 56-3 battery new relay and it started right up. Drove it down the road to test drive, the truck would want to fowl out whenever I stepped on gas peddle hard. I put Sea Foam and Lucas in the tank and 20.00 premium on top. but now the truck will not turn over since it was shut off unless i jump it but needs jumping all the time. thought it was the starter so, replaced that and still tick, tick, tick, tick when trying to start won't turn over. Its going to start to make me drink, what I can replace now or have checked? maybe its the Alternator he gave me with the truck?
I have a dead battery while trying to jump; my car I blew my alternator fuse. I had a friend try to change the fuse but he was unable to get all of the fuse.How can I get all the fuse out to put a new fuse in?
View 4 RepliesHaving intermittent starting on Elantra 2013 Key start model ? After over-nite car will not crank only dash lights come on and on third try (after overhead lights out) it starts ok ? I measured my battery after 6 hrs at 35 degree F , I see 12.4 vlts and about 0.09a draw in main neg cable (car not running). Brand new battery on 2/17 - had same trouble when original battery was in . dealer says all electrical DTC ok Batt / alternator charging etc.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2013 elantra, manual transmission. I have about 17k miles on it and it's 8months old. For some reason my clutch pedal is really loud. At 12k my power steering rack was replaced and I wanted the clutch addressed then but they didn't address it and claimed it was fine. Then at 16k my master cylinder was replaced. Within four hours the sounds came back. They are not addressing what is making the sound properly and claim it is okay to drive on it. My issue is with all of these crazy sounds that don't belong how am I supposed to tell if there is an issue with my clutch.
I drive about 30k a year. There could be damage happening and I will be expected to pay for it because it wasn't addressed because with my clutch making sounds I won't know if there is something abnormal, usually having a sound tells you that. I also get a pull to the side some times and when it happens I feel like I don't have control of my steering for a split second. I have owned two previous hyundai vehicles, and many standard vehicles and never had these sounds from a clutch. Whether it is the bushings or not it shouldn't be making sounds. Engineering should be trying to problem solve this, but instead hyundai hands me back a defective vehicle
Picked up my brand new 2013 Elantra 2 nights ago. 51 Km's on it when I drove it off the lot. Immediately noticed it was making a very loud noise whenever I hit any road bumps, potholes, sewers, train tracks, etc.
I can't tell if it is coming from the front, or back of the car. Many of the threads on here seem to be talking about a common rear shocks issue? Also read a lot about faulty struts? Swaybar?
Weird noise I am hearing with my mothers new Elantra she just picked up. When starting engine has a knocking noise, not kinding. Letting motor run for a few minutes it goes away but is concerning. I was wondering if there is an issue with the MPFI engine which i believe is new this year which replaced the GDI engine. Definitely does not sound normal to me. to me it sounds like a rode knock or hydro lifter issue. Are these engines known for this. My mother traded her 2012 civic for this with 4500 miles. She did not like the seats and dash board layout in it and we got a good deal on this car.
View 17 RepliesFinally took the car ('13 GT) back to the dealer to have them deal with this noise. Every time I turn the car left or right, I get a loud click or snap noise from the right front. My first thought was it was something in the suspension loading and unloading as the weight shifts from left to right. So, brought it in at the 59,000km mark, the looked at it, drove it around and finally said they re-torqued both axle nuts as they were loose (didn't even get into THAT one)
Soon as I drove it away, it was still doing it. I lived with it for the last 6,000km and finally got sick and tired of it so I took it back. Same deal, but this time they say the right axle shaft is shot.
I had a rebuilt alternator installed on Thursday and for the past two days when I start up the car there is a high pitch whine coming from what I believe is the alternator. Do some rebuilt alternators make noise when charging the batter after start-up? The alternator has a 3-year warranty and I'm going back to the shop tomorrow.
View 4 RepliesI experienced some weirdness trying to jump start a friends 2001 Prius and the 100 amp fuse got blown. I read the user manual and am pretty positive that I did not reverse polarity on the auxiliary battery, with the jumper cables. But as soon as I hooked up the cables the headlights and taillights came on, as well as both turn signal lights steady on, and I couldn't turn them off. I checked and checked. The key wasn't in. All the headlight switches were off. I just couldn't figure it out. After trying to let the auxiliary battery charge for a while this way, the car was still totally dead and it was weird and I gave up.
The next day my friend called AAA and they couldn't start it either. But she said they were pretty clueless, refusing to believe at first that the battery was in the trunk, and suspects maybe they reversed the polarity on the cables when they tried to jump it. She didn't see the headlights come on this time (although it was now during the day).
2003 Mazda6, 3.0 liter, 6 cylinder, FWD. My RPMs are starting to jump, so I believe a clutch replacement may be in line soon. However, I'm not a huge car guy, and I don't have much experience in regards to replacing clutches.
(1) The RPMs are jumping occasionally at higher gears (not every time). How long do you think I could go before the clutch dies completely? I'm not a "racer", and I just use my car for daily driving.
(2) Do mechanics replace clutches based on symptoms alone, or can they actually visually inspect the clutch and determine that it needs to be replaced?
(3) When replacing a clutch, what parts need to be replaced besides the actual clutch itself? Also, I've read about flywheels needing to be resurfaced, but is that necessary?
(4) What manufacturer makes good clutches? As mentioned, I'm not a hard driver or anything. Just need something that is good quality and affordable.
(5) Is the best way to save money (I'm a graduate student) to buy an aftermarket clutch and have the clutch installed by a local mechanic?
(6) At what mileages do clutches typically need to be replaced? I know it depends on how you drive. Let's say you're a casual driver and simply use your car to get to work, school, etc.
We have a 1990 Ford Ranger - 2WD 4cyl - sometimes when we try to start it, it will not kick over the final time for several tries. When it finally catches the voltage gauge will flicker and jump around. When the gauge flickers, the truck will shut off...then the same issue with trying to start it again. Some days it runs just fine and others it will stall out 3-5 times in a 15-20 minute drive. We have been told it's the DIS Module OR the Crankshaft Position Sensor OR the Voltage Regulator OR .....
View 2 RepliesIf I'm giving a jump:
Assume I hook positive and negative cables to the respective terminals of one of the two batteries. The alternative would be hooking positive cable to one battery and negative cable to the other battery, or does that make 24 volts? I'm also assuming if it is just the one battery, it does not matter which one you jump from?
If I'm receiving a jump:
I assume positive cable to positive post of one battery and negative cable to a good ground under the hood somewhere? Again, does it matter which battery I use? I wonder where a good ground is on this crowded diesel engine and aluminum body. Front radiator supports?
1987 Acura Integra Automatic, 160k I have been noticing - mostly for every start (there are a few in between that did not have that sound).
When starting, a loud sound (some what unbearable) heard and was hesitant and then the engine starts. Once started it runs fine. It is not the usual sound that the ignition makes when going bad.
What seems to be the issue? Right after I drained and filled AT fluid, it heard the first time. I have been doing AT fluid since nearly 10yrs ago with Honda fluid. I only did drain and fill and it went smoothly. In 2007, the tranny was replaced. After starting, the car runs smoothly - it is only when starting or just before engine try to start. Batt and alternator tests fine.
It hardly did it today - I might have once heard a girding sound just before starting.
My alternator went out , don't have the cash to pay a mechanic to do it for me. How to go about this the best way??!
Noticed that strange rattling sound upon starting up ?? I have a 2006 Sonata V6 . At first I thought it was normal I listened to other sonatas heard the same thing, but I don't think its normal googled it found some info but no clear answer , any way to fix it?
Drove the vehicle today (current at 156k miles) about 40 miles then came back home. Left again to run an errand. After coming out of the store and starting the car, a very pronounced 'whine' occurred. It kept whining for about 2 miles and with 3 blocks left to go, the whine suddenly stopped. No CEL appeared and the radiator temp was normal, oil level was fine and the pwr steering fluid in the reservoir was at the max level. I suspected it might be the p/s pump but, if so, why did the noise cease?
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