I have a 13 elantra gt with 4k miles and I absolutely love it. The only problem I have with it is that the a/c just doesn't seem to keep the car cool enough. I have to keep it on max ac full blast "witch is incredibly loud by the way" just to keep rear passengers comfortable on the highway. I used a temperature probe and got 47 degrees f in the duct. Is that normal? It seems high to me...
View 13 RepliesMy Galaxy S3 would auto connect every time I got in the car; good thing since it was in a holster on my belt. Now I have a Galaxy Note 3 and it's paired to the Elantra but it doesn't connect on it's own. You have to touch "Elantra paired" then it says "connecting" and does. I don't see any settings on the phone that are different. I don't like to have to take it off my belt then out of the holster and manually connect every time.
View 15 RepliesI almost always use my cruise control. When I turn off my car then restart under 2 minutes, the cruise control doesn't work UNTIL I stop completely.
When I turn off my car over 2 minutes then restart, cruise control works fine.
Is something not resetting right or something? It doesn't bother me.. I just have to restart my car after 2 minutes so my cruise control works.
So i noticed recently. The speedometer needle would jitters/shake/doesn't move smoothly when driving around 110km/h to 120 km/h. Approximately 75 mph. I'm in 6th gear when this happens. I haven't tried down shifting to 4th or 5th to see what happens, but maybe i should try that. This happens while trying to accelerate. The car has barely any power at that point. If i stay at a steady speed, the needle doesn't jitter.
View 9 RepliesWorked fine yesterday, today no dice. I was hoping it might be a fuse or something cheap and easy as opposed to a compressor or sensor failure (55k miles, so out of warranty). VW, of course, stopped including fuse box diagrams, but I found a couple on this site and in other places, and no joy after checking relevant fuses and pushing on the rest to be sure they're firmly seated ..
View 14 RepliesI just got this 2006 F250 with a 6.0 diesel in January. Didn't check the AC until now. It doesn't work, not even cool air. I borrowed a gauge set. The static pressure in the system was 95 psi (77 F outside). I started the truck 1500 RPM with AC Max blower high, windows down. When the AC pump would run it would draw the low side down below about 20 and the high side pressure would go to about 150 before the pump would kick out (about 1 second pumping). It looked like it was low on refrigerant. Easy fix, WRONG.
I started adding a can of 134a (12 oz)with dye, to the system. The can got cold, and was going into the system, but the low side readings weren't going anywhere, the pump was still cutting off on low pressure. Still about a 1 second pump run time. The high side pressure were going up fast. After the can was in the high side pressure was going up to about 450. The low side would creep upto about 65 and when the pump would kick in it would draw it way down to maybe 30. Still very short pump times. I don't think the air ever came out of the vents even cool.
I got cold feet about the high side pressure and lowered the charge on the system. The new static pressure is 115.
Did I overcharge the system too fast? Does the system have to run for a while after a charge for the high side pressure to drop? It seems to me like there is a blockage causing the low side to be too low and the high side to be too high. Will air in the system cause this? What next?
I have a 2008 Elantra with 78k miles on it. Yesterday, to my dismay, I couldn't get any hot air out of my vent. I have never once had an issue with the hot or cold airflow before.
My coolant level is good and the temperature gauge is a-ok. The air coming in was cold yesterday and cool today; it appears it's just outdoor air temperature (as opposed to straight up cold) that I'm getting.
I believe my radiator is also overdue to get flushed...not sure whether or not that has anything to do w/this.
Is this likely the blend door actuator? I'm no car guy but I've been reading a little. Also....looks like this part might be 40-50. How much do you think I should be paying for labor if this is fixed?
My 2013 ford f150 4x4 ac does not blow very cool air . We have charged the compressor and that did not work. Then we Vac it down and replaced the expansion valve and recharged the compressor, still the same. Also on the max high setting the blower is really loud?
View 6 RepliesMy Hyundai Elantra 2014 SE makes a cool psst sound when shifting to 2nd gear (haven't tested next gears). It makes me feel like I have a Turbo! The sound is very low, tho. It only happens when i accelerate the car hard. Anyway, i don't think this is normal.
View 9 RepliesThe blue cool engine light went off today. What does that mean?
View 5 RepliesI purchased a brand new 2013 Prius 2 last October and I'm loving it so far.
However, I notice that even if it's slightly warm outside, and I have my cabin temp set at a higher temperature than outside, the vent blows cooler air.
For example, the other day it was 65F outside. Since it was warmer than usual, I turned down the cabin temperature to 65F as well. It was nice and cool, but a little TOO cold. So I turned it up to 70F. It was still blowing cold air. I had to turn it up to 72F before it was warm enough to feel comfortable.
2013 6.7L F-250
The owner's manual recommends idling for a period of time after towing to allow the turbo to cool somewhat. After towing a 10K lb travel trailer in the mountains, what temperature should i shoot for as sufficiently cooled? When towing the oil to averages about 210-215-F. Normal operating temp is about 190F.
My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5 speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. This was covered by the warranty.
Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield. When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people.
Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield.
When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people. Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
I recently got a CEL with a P2096 error code on my 1.8L 2013 Elantra GT auto with 18K miles. This indicates some kind of oxygen sensor discrepancy between the pre- and post-catlyst O2 sensors which could be caused by a bunch of things. I cleared the code and it hasn't returned in a day of driving.
I did a quick internet search and there appears there might be a TSB out for revising the ECU software for this problem, possibly filed under TSB-13-FL-006 or Hyundai bulletin 356015.
Rear wheels aren't engaging. Truck is running on front wheel drive. They checked transfer case and differential fluids all is good with no signs of metal or broken parts inside. Truck drivers fine on dry and wet pavement no weird noises or vibrations. When I drove in snow the traction control light would come on as normal and when I'm getting stuck instead of the rear wheels causing the AWD Malfunction light comes on for about 5-10 seconds. And turns off. When car was on lift The drive shaft was able to be turned as if on neutral. Question is that normal? Maybe electronically disengages from transfer case? Anyway. A whole day at the service now they want to stay with the vehicle.
I have attached the light that comes on and off when the front wheels spin and no traction. Between 5 and 6 on the tach.
I find if i jump in the car and turn the key quickly to start it sputters but doesn't turn over. When i try again a second time its always ok.
Happens a lot after i fill my tank, seems to never give issues if i turn the key to the on position and give it a couple seconds till i start it.
I have an injen cold air intake, and magnaflow muffler don't know if those would contribute to the problem? Should i take it to hyundai and let them take a look.
I also notice when i start my car the rpm jumps to 2000 and then drops down, i run synthetic oil and Hyundai filters.
I have a 2013 GS350 F sport with 56k miles. It was running fine yesterday, but today it wouldn't start. The engine keeps cranking but does not start. When you first try to start it, several lights come on, but after a few seconds they go away, but these lights remain on (see picture below). My advisor from Lexus said the light with the steering wheel and ! is for the power steering system.
View 9 RepliesI have a new 2013 Ford Fiesta with less than 2000 miles on it. While I am at a stop sign, I step on the gas, and the car does not go immediately. It feels like my foot slips off the gas pedal, although I know that is not the case because my foot is still on the pedal! I have to ease off the gas pedal just a bit until the car will go into first gear and get some momentum. It only happens every once in a while, not every time I am at a stop sign.I checked with the dealer and of course he said it is the way I'm driving it. He said I don't need to step on the gas like it is a sports car. I'm not driving it like Mario Andretti. I'm just trying to get around town with a bit of efficiency. If you are familiar with Chicago city driving, you know the drivers behind you don't have time to wait for my little Ford Fiesta to eventually kick into gear. I don't have any issues with it going from 3rd to 4th or 2nd to 3rd gear.
View 12 RepliesI just bought a 2013 GLI Autobahn 6 speed manual. Ive owned a 6 speed Mazda Speed6 before but I'm having issues figuring out when to shift as this transmission seems different than any other stick I've owned. Usually my shifts would be right around 30 for 3rd, 40 for 4th, 50 for 5th, etc. Seems with this its a little higher and it doesn't want 4th until 45, 5th until 55.
But it seems like at 55 The car is telling me to shift to 5th but if I do it almost doesn't want it and feels like it struggles. Same thing in 6th, I don't feel right until I'm going 70 but that seems too fast to be first going into 6th since in 5th I am over 3k rpms and in my Speed6 I was in 6th at 60 mph. Feel like I am constantly in between 5th and 6th on the highway and its annoying.
Just curious what other are experiencing and when they tend to shift under normal driving.
Just picked up an '07 5spd & noticed that the dome light doesn't work. no biggie, but then found that the dash lights don't work at all. When I turn the lights on the backlighting for the window switches comes on, as do all the running lights. The odometer & clock backlight properly dim out, but the dash & heat/fan control lights are dead. dimmer dial on the left panel has no effect. dash cluster fuse is good. If I can't get the dealer to fix it (only had it two days).
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