Elantra GD (2013+) :: 2015 GT - Throttle Response / Flat Spot
Jan 16, 2016
I have annoying problem with the car feeling flat while driving it braking into a corner then coming out of the corner I feel I get no response from the pedal unless I push it down further. While pushing down a little further it roars out of the corner. I have noticed it more now because of the icy roads when I have traction control turned off. Push pedal down slightly with no response, then push 1mm further and the tires spin slowly.
I performed my own test in neutral of the auto transmission. While idling at usual idle speed, push pedal slowly and stop, kept doing this a little further each time to see what the rpm was reading. Finally it went from Idle speed under 1000 rpm and shot up to over 3000 rpm? I tried this dozens of times and could not rev the engine to anything between idle speed and roughly 3 grand. Took to dealer "no codes" I believe this will affect fuel consumption.
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I'm getting pretty significant throttle response delay in my 2013 Elantra w/ Tech. It's pretty egregious in stop-and-go traffic when I attempt to accelerate, wait a second before my car responds, and then get jerked forward, only to stop a second later.
I emailed Hyundai and was told to speak to the dealership. I called up the dealership and they had no idea what I was talking about. I emailed another local dealership, and they didn't get back to me. Pretty annoyed at this point.
I did a search on this forum and found some threads discussing resetting the throttle system by resetting the ECM. Wasn't too confident in doing that myself and I didn't want to mess up my car's computer system at all. I'd like the dealership to take care of this under warranty, but if they haven't heard anything about this, then I'm not sure how to proceed. What my next move should be?
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About 3 weeks into the new 13 Elantra. Liking it pretty good. I seem to be hearing a noise of some sort. Almost sounds like a flat spot on a tire. Seems to be more rapid the faster I go and more or less noticeable on different types of asphalt. Didn't really notice it at first. The only thing I did was let some air out of the tires. They had almost 40 psi when I got it. They call for 32.
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I have a 2015 SD with only 4100 miles on it. This has happened to me twice. Both times, traveling slowly at idle or just above. Anyway, tried to give it a little gas, and -----nothing. Lightly pumped the throttle a couple of quick times and back on line. The motor didn't die, but there was no response to the throttle at all. The first time, I thought maybe it was something I did. Then it doesn't happen for a month and a half and then again, in heavy traffic in the rain. Haven't had my first service yet, and you can bet I'll tell them about it. Almost felt like a two-stroke that had loaded up?
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I have the SE model and the only button i have is the traction control on/off button. I looked through the menu in the gauge cluster and I come across a "Eco mode indicator" on/off option. I turned it on and now the eco mode light engages when i drive.... I also noticed that the throttle response has been way numbed down and changes gears late. So basically the "indicator light" options is ACTUALLY the "eco mode".... why don't we have a button for this?
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Took delivery of my 2015 F250 in June with 2WD and the 6.2 gas engine. What I thought to be a slow throttle response seems to be more of a quick shifting transmission according to two different dealerships. My 6 speed automatic has already shifted to 4th gear at only 25-30 MPH. My Dodge Hemi I sold never had shifts as quick as this and I think it's to quick. My question is....is there a way to change these shift points so I get more speed before it shifts into the higher gears?
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I just changed timing belt all accessory belts and water pump on my 2001 Hyundai Elantra. Now the check engine light is on and it is sluggish in throttle response. It sounds smooth. I was quite sure I had the cam and crank marks dead on. I turned it 2 revolutions by hand and they both looked dead on before I started it. If I were off 1 or 2 teeth would that be the cause? And if so how do I fix it? Also will it hurt it to drive it that way?
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Resetting Throttle Response. I came across this video, bored and just playing around, and tried it on my 2013.......and it works! Turn the ignition key to the run position, then slowly press the accelerator pedal to the floor. Then let the pedal up fast, then turn the ignition off. Do this 3 times, and on the last time, also turn the ignition off. I was amazed that that the lagging pedal response was almost completely gone!
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Really like the Blind Spot Monitor system in the car. The visual part of with the mirrors works great but the volume part in the car is too low especially with radio on. I'm told by Dealership Service that it cannot be adjusted. I find this hard to believe especially seeing this is an all electronic system. There's got to be a way to have a volume control or menu control on it????
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I had these things wrong in the first 12 months
Tire shake: took 4 trips to find one bad tire. Replaced 1 tire
Squeaky front end: 2 trips to find front coil rubbing on the frame due to bad mount or something. Fixed under recall
Squeaky front end part 2: bad upper strut mount bushing. I won't even count the dealership nicking my hood and it has to be repainted.
I have never had a perfectly smooth riding car. Frankly, the loaners drive better. I documented this with the dealer I bought the car from and then with VWoA a month ago. I told them the front tires are shaking again and need a balance. I even had the front tires balanced at an Indy shop. Before my 1100 vacation. Now it needs balancing again. The back has always had a slight bumping
Now at the 10k service, I get a free alignment check and find my car is moderately out if alignment.
I originally mentioned it to my purchase dealer asking if it needed the alignment after all suspension work. They said it was not needed. EVIDENTALLY IT WAS.
So now I have a tire with a flat spot which they should have replaced when I had one replaced. Evidently, this car says before I leased it. I used my free alignment I had with my extended warranty which I should have been able to save for down the road AND I still need a tire balance.
I told VWoA a month ago I shouldn't have to pay for a balance if it kept going out of balance. Obviously, something was causing the tires to be out if balance. It was pretty far out on the front left. Camber was out .58 and the toe .02.
I am highly annoyed. Norm reeves never put the effort in to make it smooth.
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Every time I am on the road I get this flat noise coming from the front like if the strut was out of air or something like that. It is a very annoying sound and only on certain bumps of the road.
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I have a 07 Sonata 2l crtd, Its been running fine for about 6 years, But for the last couple of months, when setting off gently, as it reaches approx 1400rpm, I get a blip/hiccup/flat spot/miss. It ONLY happens at 1400rpm, and irrespective of what speed I am doing.
For example, as above, (setting off) but also, if cruising gently at approx 50mph ( which equals approx 1400rpm) then it does it again. It only does it at 1400rpm.
Also (maybe related) the orange engine warning light has now come on ( twice in past 2 weeks ) it stays on for a day or so,,,then goes out. its not flashing.
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I have noticed several times when leaving my driveway (backing out OR driving out) that it feels like I have a flat spot in my passenger front tire. The first couple times I pulled over to check the tire pressure to make sure it was ok, and it was. It doesn't happen every day, but I have noticed it 4-5 times in the last 5-6 weeks. I was talking to a guy from work and he has the same issue.
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I have a 4160 on a 351 Ford. I confess, it's a boat!
I had a major flat spot when accelerating off idle. I found it wasn't pumping on the accelerator circuit.
I replaced the accelerator diaphragm and cleaned the squirts and the passages. It squirts great now, but if I floor it, it completely bogs. If I baby it really carefully, once the engine gets over about 1800 rpms, it acts fine.
I thought it over, checked the travel on the arm that presses the diaphragm, and figured my pump cam was worn. It "seemed" like the duration of the squirt was not long enough.
I got a new cam kit. The orange cam on my carb was not a bit worn compared to the cam in the kit. Not encouraging. I put the only other cam in the kit that I thought might work. It was blue, and it gave more lift but no greater duration. It did not make any difference that I can tell. Is there a transition circuit I might have problem with? I don't know enough to go any further.
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When I first got my car it had a flat spot while driving hard at higher rpms. Almost as if something were actually holding the car back, it would pull nice up to that spot and then just almost die off. I eventually got unitronic flash and it seemed better but it was still doing it. Later companies started coming out with dsg flashes and this seemed to be the remedy but I now have hpa dsg flash and it still does it from time to to time. Could this be a faulty coilpack, or an issue with the intake manifold valve that changes over at higher rpms?
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My 2.0 recently had some problems with the coil pack so I replaced it. Now my car hits a "flat spot" when accelerating around 2000 RPM and then another around 2600 RPM. If I am in 3rd gear going about 20MPH and I press the gas about 25-30% it sort of shakes and won't accelerate and when I take my foot off the gas and slowly ease the pedal down it accelerates fine.
My car also runs pretty rough at a cold idle(misfires). When I press the gas it sounds smooth until it gets back to idle. At any temp my car runs really rough with the A/C on. I also hear a rattle/Buzz around my relay panel when the A/C is on. My car is a 1999 2.0 AEG. I don't have VAG-COM just a generic scanner and the last codes I got were:
P0134
P0135
P0141
I replaced both O2 sensors and the beginning of this year and those codes came back right after I did them. I will scan tomorrow and post any new codes.
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Just got the car back from the dealer a couple weeks ago after the engine was vibrating. Replaced one of the valves and it worked great. Now a few days ago I was driving home and the AC just flat out died. I know the 06's have a problem with the AC, but I think this is something different because the fan doesn't come on at all (with the AC on or off) either. When I turn the AC on, there is absolutely no response. RPMs don't go up as they would when the AC unit comes on, the fan doesn't come on... nothing. All that happens is the yellow light on the AC button turns on. The compass on my rear view mirror doesn't come on either. The turbo doesn't seem to kick in at all. If it kicking, it's very very weak. This all happened at the same time as the AC failure.
I checked the fuses, and everything seems to be okay. The console, for the first time ever, is saying I need to take the car in for maintenance in so many miles and in so many days. I've never gotten this message before. The car is 100% driveable though, other than the lack of power due to the turbo not coming on and not having AC in these hot 100+ degree days...
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2003 7.3 Sd Has a flat spot from 2700 - 3000rpm especially when it changes down, say going up a hill , if I decelerate and let it change back up it will pull again but if I leave it changed down it will not rev anymore. No CEL , put it on the scanner , only code that came up is " intake temp Low " which would not effect it. Have just installed new up pipes , new HPOP hoses , in the past it has had a new IPR and HPOP . It had this flat spot before and it would bring up low boost pres hence the up pipes . Have checked all flanges and intercooler boots etc.
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Golf VI 2.5 automatic... I seemed to notice a dead spot in the throttle when taking off from a light. You press the gas, nothing seems to happen. To start from a stop sign, you have to really give the car some juice to get going, which ends up being too much throttle and sucks gas. In other words, very difficult to take off at a moderate pace from a stop. Seems like all or nothing.
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I accidentally open the hood and find a secret oil spot on the engine. Is it leaking? Do I have to go to dealer to fix it?
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Well again my celly has died. I was driving down the road listening to some tunes when i noticed all of a sudden i had no throttle response and when I turned down the music my engine had cut out. Well i tried to start it back up and it was a no go. I tested for spark and I am getting nothing, I replaced the main relay and the distributor. I have new plug wires and NGK spark plugs in. This is my main source of transportation so any leads would be amazing. I have a 91 Celica ST with the 1.6 4AFE.
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