I am having a heat problem...first my temp gauge never goes above 160...second...my return heater hose is not hot...my upper radiator hose is tight when I squeeze it.
View 7 RepliesMy car doesn't blow hot air. the temperature gauge goes up to half way like it normally operates at but the air never get more than luke warm. I changed the thermostat last year with no better results and I just had the timing belt and water pump replaced in July. It been an average of 8 degrees here for the last week.
Its a 98 camry, 4 cyl, Automatic...
I just changes the heater core, water pump and thermostat and I only get luke warm heat coming out of the vents. Did I need to have bled the heater core?
View 3 RepliesNissan Frontier 2004 with v6, air, automatic 4x4.... I only have luke warm air coming into my truck. The switch on dash switches from defrost to floor or thru dash . Was thinking maybe a switch under dash not working maybe, but do not know where to start looking.
View 3 RepliesMy manual heat/cold adjustment dial is working fine and transitions from heat to cold readily. However when in max heat, it is blowing luke warm. The higher the RPMs going down the road the warmer it blows (still not near as hot as normal), then idling at stop lights or in park it goes back to warm only.
My engine temperature is running normal at all RPM levels while driving and idling. Partially clogged heater core maybe, where higher RPMs force more water through it? I assume its not the water pump or thermostat since my operating temperature is staying normal...
My lovely little 99 Forester was running fine up until about 6 weeks ago. Now it has always burned oil and my dealership gave the the run around saying it was "normal". Fine, so I've driven around with quarts of oil in my car for the last 8 years, and I dump a quart in every 500 miles. Every time I bring it into for oil changes them I've told them it burns oil.So 6 weeks ago, I start the car and no heat. The temp gauge shoots up to H and then the heat kicks on and the temp gauge goes immediately back down to N. I call the dealership - they say the thermostat is sticking and I'm find to drive it - I get an appt for 2 weeks later.
2 weeks later, car is in the shop and I'm told because I've been driving the car and its been overheating the headgasket is cracked. So I pay the $1,700 to repair it and replace the timing belt and temp gauge.I pick up the car and it is running WORSE than it was when I brought it in with the cracked headgasket and sticking temperature gauge. I call the dealership from the traffic signal up the road. They schedule another appt for a week later.
Week later I bring the car in and the oil light blinks on as I'm driving car into their driveway. Get a call the next day saying I need a new shortblock and it will be $3,000.I meet with dealership and tell them 1) they should have checked the engine/cylinders when they replaced the headgasket and 2) I'm not repaying them to do the headgaskets twice basically.
So they tell me they are crediting me for the headgasket repair job. And get this - the price is $3,000. It actually is $5,000, but they are crediting the headgasket repair job to that.I'm just disguisted and furious at this point. Car has 140,000 miles, and I'm really anal about changing the oil every 3,000 miles - despite the fact since 12,000 miles the car has been having 6 new quarts of oil dumped into it between changes.They are telling me "its my fault" the cylinders are bad because I allowed the engine to run repeatedly overheated.
I have a 95 ford f350 when u run it with the heat on the truck temp gauge says its overheating the heat will go from nice and hot to ice cold as soon as the temp gauge goes up to the red. I replaced the thermostat also checked for coolant leak cant find any but truck has strong anti freeze smell and the radiator keeps going low on coolant.
View 2 RepliesTruck is a 1999 F-250 with manual climate control with A/C.
Heater core issue:
Heat is not very warm after engine is fully up to temp. Would like to back flush the heater core without damaging or making it leak. How should I do this safely?
Secondly, if I do make it leak, how hard is it to change out?
I have an '04 Nissan Sentra. I know there is a problem with my fuel pump, which can delay the start on my car, but that is not my real problem. My problem is I have no heat. My car starts fine and never moves above or below the middle on the temperature gauge, but it almost never warms up. The only time it seems to is if I am going over 55 mph and that is only the first time I go over that speed. Once I slow down it stops working and does not come back. The air blows out, but the air is colder than my A/C. I have looked at the coolant and that seems to be fine, so I am not sure where to look next.
View 9 RepliesGot a 1995 Toyota Tercel. As the temps have dropped, I have started to use the heat again.
The heat comes on, but not nearly as warm as I remember. And now the temp gauge barely nudges - but does seem to nudge - above stone cold.
I checked the coolant today while the engine was cold. The reservoir is empty but the radiator is filled to the brim.
This isn't the first time this season it has been cold. My best recollection is that, until this week, the heater and the temp gauge had both been working fine.
I have a SF 2009 Limited. Since I bought it 2 years ago, I noticed the heater blows luke warm air. Not hot. It takes 20min for the cabin to reach 22degC when it's only 0 outside.
It was like that when brand new.
It has the auto temp control, so it might be playing tricks on me but I don't think so.
I am tempted to find the pipe feeding the heater radiator and insulate the pipes. Maybe the heater only gets warm liquid.
What else can I do?
Ford crown vic, 1999, 125k miles, no engine work has been done, did flush cooling system in spring of 2013 and put in a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water (from a jug). No problems for the summer of 2013, have been using heater with no problems until around Tuesday of this week.
Car runs fine, no leaks, coolant checks out good. BUT now.. My temperature gauge hardly moves (up) and the heater blows warm air only. If I am driving the gauge will not move, if the car sits running for awhile it will move up some and the heat will get warmer inside of the car. My guess maybe a stuck thermostat?
I have a weird issue on my 2008 Elantra. The heater starts blowing luke warm/cold air after running for about 1 hour or so and stays like that.
View 9 RepliesJust went on a trip to SC. It was hot as hell - 100F most of the trip. The a/c would blow cool (not exactly cold) for a while and then go luke warm (way better than outside but not particularly refreshing) for a while. So I was reasonably comfortable but definitely not cold.
This would happen about every 15-30min where I felt like the compressor had stopped working for a while. I am thinking the compressor is probably limping along and about to die. Usually I thought these things just up and die though. Clogged accumulator? IDK - nothing has been done to the a/c system since 2009 head gaskets.
I have been having a problem with my 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4. It started about 2 months ago. I was in traffic (truck hadn't even been on for 15 minutes). The temp gauge spiked, so I pulled over and turned the truck off. I turned the ignition on and the gauge was normal so I started it and all was fine.
Fast forward a little and every so often about every 3 weeks it would overflow (coolant) but not get to the point that it would overheat. I changed the thermostat and all seemed good to go. Fast forward to yesterday morning. Got in the truck and left to go hunting, and I didn't even make it 10 minutes down the road when I turned the heat on and it blew cold.
I started to see the gauge creep up so I pulled over and shut it down. Upper hose was cold, lower is cold and both heater hoses are cold. After some time of waiting, I started it but the gauge kept creeping up and no heat, so I kept shutting it down. After about 5x of this, the heat worked and the upper hose got hot and all was right with the world. SO I drove it home. Coolant is new, flushed about a month ago and was running great since then. Thermostat is new. Do I have a blockage somewhere? Water pump bad?
Was driving my truck I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6L, btw. The heater started blowing cold air and I looked at the temp gauge but it was showing lower than it normally does and then, after a couple of miles or so I looked at the temp gauge again. By this time I was in my driveway. And it was overheating it might have been that way before I looked at the temp gauge again. But any way I opened the hood didn't see any leaks, all my hoses were hot except the top heater hose. Also checked the oil it was full and coolant was too, what this could be? Sounds like a t-stat to me? But could be worse. Also forgot to mention that the oil had no signs of water in there nor the expansion tank cap !
View 3 RepliesIt blows luke warm air, no hot or no AC just luke warm... what could it be?
View 1 RepliesWell I was recharging my a/c yesterday because the system was low so I used one of them 24oz cans and now I am getting cold air out of my passenger side and luke warm air out of my driver side vents. Also if I switch to the different vents I don't get anything out of the floor only. I get air out when I select it, but it's coming out of the defrost. Other than that everything else works just fine, just no floor. I've read issues with the blend doors but my vehicle doesn't have the dual climate controls so I'm at a loss...
View 4 RepliesWhen my hvac controls are turned to hot, I'm getting only luke warm air. When moved over to cold it feels like the a/c is on...granted it is 21 degrees here. What I've done so far:
1. Flushed the coolant system at the local COOP TBA
2. Flushed heater core-Both heater hoses are hot to the touch as well as the heater core itself. The hoses are within 10 degrees of each other tested by an infrared temp gauge.
3. Verified the blend door actuator is moving. I can see it spin while attached to the box as well as I pulled it out and plugged it in it will move from hot to cold.
4. Smacked the #$%! out of the blend door box.
The fan still functions as it should from low to high. The truck also gets up to operating temp as usual.
Is it possible the actuator is still faulty even though it moves and not going all the way to the heat side? I considered picking up a replacement but I hate to start throwing parts at it.
Did the blend door give up? The snow is here and I need the heat for those 4am waterfowl hunting trips.
I have a 1999 Dodge Durango SLT 5.2L (318) 4x4. My problem is that there is no air or heat coming from any of my vents. It started out where there was no air coming out on the lowest setting. Then a few days later, no air from the next highest setting. It then continued to where absolutely no air coming from any setting. I don't know where to even start looking.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Dodge Durango and the rear passenger air blows cold only - was fine last winter. Neither the passenger or the driver controls will get warm air to the rear via the overhead vents. Warm air comes out under the front seats to the rear only.
View 1 Replies