Durango :: 2005 Limited - AC Will Cut Off Like No Air Is Coming Out When Take A Long Drive
Jul 31, 2012
44k miles . I have a 2005 Durango Limited with the GPS and DVD. The ac control is the digital display with auto sense. Also has rear ac and heat. The ac works great plenty cold but if I take a long drive up to 2 hours the ac will cut off like no air is coming out. I put the fan on high and you can hear the air but none comes out the top vents just a little from the Bottom vent, it is cold but very little air like someone closed the blend door. Also no air from the rear ac which can be controlled from the front or the back controls.
If I stop the car and let sit for say 20 minutes engine off then restart the car and turn on the ac all works well again for the next couple of hours. I have no problem driving around town with the ac on everything works well all speeds and directions. No check engine lights or codes!!
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Ok...I've been reading about Michelin tires on the forum and unfortunately, I just bought my 07' Limited with a brand new set of Kelly "Charger" Tires. So, I took a trip last week and noticed at 55-73 mph, the car rides nice, smooth, and quiet. However, when I hit 74 or 75 mph, I began hearing a road noise that sounds as if the tires have hit a certain oscillatory air resonance at this speed.
I'm wondering if it's due to the tire tread pattern or something else. Strangest damn thing. When I accelerate faster, the noise seems to diminish a little but still isn't smooth and quiet. Maybe I'm just drowning it out some while it accelerates. When I bring it back down below 74 mph, it goes nice and quiet again.
I have the tire pressures set at 40 psi (trying to get a little extra fuel mileage). However, I'm wondering if this might cause the problem...I believe the pressure should be between 35-38 psi. My TPMS light hasn't lit up, so I guess it doesn't see fault with an extra 2 psi. Anyway, the tires appear to be a quality tire. I looked they show the following ratings.
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I would seem that my Neon has started a very small leak seems to be coming from the drive shafts. You may call the differentials. You may also call it a transaxle. I prefer to call them driveshafts and transmissions. I took it to a service place to take a free look at it. I do not have the equipment that they have. They put it on the hoist and when you walk under there it does look like it is coming from one of the driveshafts. They were not Tranny experts and said they could not fix it, but said it would need to be rebuilt or changed. My question is, since they are not tranny experts. Does something like this really need to be rebuilt? Is there not just a seal leaking that can be changed without a rebuild? Why would they make something like that? Just to make you pay more money to get it fixed? I did try some Lucas and then Trans X hoping that would seal it up. Lucas seemed to do nothing. Just put in the Trans X today.
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It sounds like it is coming from the Hybrid Drive. It is really loud. I can hear it as I drive down the road. The best I can figure out from reading forums is it might be some time of coolant pump the drive uses. It starts as soon as I open the door before I start it and it will keep doing it after the car is turned off.
I've posted a video with audio on youtube....
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I've had this problem for a while. The previous owner of my escape replaced two tires and said the ABS and four wheel drive lights started coming on. ABS solid, FWD light flashes eight times every two minutes USUALLY. Sometimes the ABS and FWD light are off if I am on a short drive. Sometimes in these instances I can feel the brake pedal pulse or I can tell the 4WD is trying to activate without a reason (jerking in the steering wheel).
Sometimes the ABS light stays off while the 4WD light flashes constantly. After doing some research on here I'd like to believe it's a tone ring since that seems to be a common problem and a relatively easy fix (and cheaper than new tires). Oh yeah... sometimes (very rarely) the lights stay off and everything works great. The guy I bought it from said that the lights started activating two weeks or so after he changed the two tires.
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2006 Avalon Limited: getting a P0015 code. My mechanic says it has to do with cam sensors(?) "cam pos actuator b bank 1: timing over retarded." Dealer told mechanic that they've never seen one of these sensors go and to check the wiring harness for damage; mechanic found none. 153,000 miles.
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My beloved 07 Avalon is in the process of getting totaled because someone (NOT ME) didn't bother to see if there was any oncoming traffic before turning. But I digress.
I'm 99% I'll be replacing it with another 07 Limited, and I have to finish cleaning it out of all my belongings tomorrow. In short, I'm taking everything out of it I can, including my satellite receiver. Looking at the procedures for installing the 06 and 09 (which I could find easily online) it looks like all I need to do is:
- remove the panel on the right inside of the trunk
- remove the receiver unit by unscrewing the 2 10 mm nuts
- unplug the receiver
Is there anything else I should grab while I'm in there? And, how hard is it to remove the panel in the trunk?
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I have an 06 Limited with the smart key, and am trying to find out if there is a way to lock the doors automatically. It seems there's all kinds of things the smart key can do, but this isn't one of them. Between the Engine Immobilizer and the smart key, they can be set to do everything automatically except lock the doors. I know the smart key can lock the doors from the outside, but you have to press the door lock button on the smart key which isn't much of an improvement over just sticking a dumb key into the door lock.
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Problem just started last night when I turned the defroster on. Now the engine cuts off when the air is turned on at lower speed/rpms.
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After searching the forums about other owners with the dreaded rear shade buzzing, I am trying to located the fuse to disconnect the rear shade. I will remove the rear seat if I need to but would rather not go through the hassle.
The fuse panel is different than the posts for the 2005/2006 non-limited
The picture is attached [URL] ......
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I have an '07 Avalon Limited with the heated/ventilated front seats. The drivers seat just does not seem to cool properly, and what the problem might be. Occasionally when I put my hand on the seat I can feel a tiny amount of air blowing through the perforations, but most of the time it's not nearly enough to cool through a pair of jeans, and I can't even tell that it's on.
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I have a 2005 Durango, ~142k miles. The end of May, I had to get the transmission solenoid replaced, which may not be relevant. About 10 days later, the car started overheating when idling. There was a crack on the radiator neck, by the cap, and I had to get the radiator replaced, and the thermostat. The shop said the fan was wobbling, and they replaced the fan clutch as well. The fan was a lot louder than it had been, the mechanic said he had put in a higher performance fan in and maybe that was why, and offered to put in a lower performance one if I wanted. I declined.
Six weeks later, it started overheating while idling again. I brought it back, and the water pump was out. By now I was checking the temperature gauge constantly when idling, and it never quite hit the center until suddenly after 4 weeks, then it suddenly started overheating while idling again. I brought it back again, and they couldn't find any problem except he said the radiator was about a cup low, and maybe there had been an air bubble.
I've been constantly checking the temperature gauge since, and it once again never quite hit middle until 2 days ago, and now suddenly it's overheating when idling. I checked the coolant level after it had been sitting for a couple hours (and I had only driven it for about 10 minutes so far this morning, before that. I'm afraid there is a blown head gasket or something, but if so, why would it run so well for an extended period, and then suddenly start overheating again, twice now? They haven't done a compression check.
In case this is relevant, every few days the car will just stall out when coming to a stop, and sometimes the idle seems rough.
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I have a 2005 Durango and it just dies on me and when I shut it off it won't start. It turns over but nothing else, Just started today. Starter? Crank sensor?
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I've got a 2005 Avalanche (basically, a Silverado) which has suddenly developed a possible illness. Whenever I start the truck and begin moving (forward or reverse), I hear one (and only one) loud squeak that seems to be coming from the general area of the torque converter or drive shaft (but who knows exactly). The squeak doesn't happen immediately upon moving but always happens within the first 20-30 feet of movement and then no more. If I put the truck in park, re-engage the automatic transmission and start moving, I cannot recreate the sound.
However, if I turn off the engine altogether, restart the truck and begin moving, it happens again exactly as before. It happens every time the vehicle has been restarted, regardless of whether the engine is hot or cold. Once it's happened, I can drive hundreds of miles and it won't happen again until I turn off the engine and restart it. Further, I've determined recently that if I start the truck on a hill and let it roll while in neutral and without a foot on the brake, the squeak still happens. Therefore, it's not dependent upon the transmission being in gear or the brakes being applied!
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I have a 2002 Durango, the #3 Exhaust rocker arm keeps coming off, it was took back to car lot and they installed it. It lasted a day, now the shop has replaced rocker, and lifter, changed oil to 5W-30 and tried another camshaft. It starts and runs but by the time you get a block it starts again. The old cam was worn on the same #3 cylinder but we think driving it with arm off caused the damage. The spring feels still when we try pushing it down with a prybar, can a spring be changed on the vehicle?
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I have the Durango with the GPS REC model. I'm looking to add a HD radio add on receiver. Can I reach up to the back of the radio system and disconnect the antenna. I need to do this so I can put the car antenna into the receiver end and the jumper antenna back to the radio? If this cannot be done by reaching the back will the radio have to be partly removed to get access to the antenna?
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On my sister's 2009 avalon unlimited, the remote will only unlock the rear drivers side door. If the door handle is grasped to unlock the doors, only the rear drivers side door unlocks. On the inside of the car, the drivers side door unlock switch (master switch) does nothing. The passengers side door unlock switch only unlocks the rear drivers side door. The bottom line is that only the rear drivers side door locks and unlocks using the remote or passenger side door unlock button on the inside of the vehicle.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Durango SLT 5.2L (318) 4x4. My problem is that there is no air or heat coming from any of my vents. It started out where there was no air coming out on the lowest setting. Then a few days later, no air from the next highest setting. It then continued to where absolutely no air coming from any setting. I don't know where to even start looking.
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Ok, so, my heater works, I can feel the hot air coming out of the vents, but no matter what setting I use, I can't get the blower to kick on. The hot air just trickles out. What might be wrong, and how much, or how hard it would be to fix? The weird part is that sometimes the fan will work.
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I have a 2005 Durango with the 4.7L engine with 140,000 mile and there is a burning oil smell coming through our vents. I also smell it when stopped at a light or drive thru and when the hood is raised. Our mechanics can't find anything. We've changed the plugs and wires, replaced the valve cover gasket and water pump recently, and can find no leaks or evidence of leaks. It uses oil a little, but mostly over a long period of time or on long trips.
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The Dodge Durango coolant leak is coming from the right side. Is it a hose or something bigger.
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