Durango :: 1999 - Dies Intermittently While Running?
May 17, 2004
Over the past few months, my 1999 Dodge Durango with 64,000 miles on it and the 5.9 liter engine inexplainably dies when driving. It has happened about 4 times over the past 6 months. I will be driving along and all of the sudden, the car turns off while moving. I have to pull off the road and sit for a few minutes. After a bit, I start the car back up and it runs fine. This has occured when decelerating exiting the freeway, on a residential street while costing along and while accelerating on the freeway.
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Over the past few months, my 1999 Dodge Durango with 64,000 miles on it and the 5.9 liter engine inexplainably dies when driving. It has happened about 4 times over the past 6 months. I will be driving along and all of the sudden, the car turns off while moving. I have to pull off the road and sit for a few minutes. After a bit, I start the car back up and it runs fine. This has occurred when decelerating exiting the freeway, on a residential street while costing along and while accelerating on the freeway.
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Dies while driving down the road and usually will restart with no problems.Seems to happen more often when it gets hot out. IPR/ICP are good.It took a long time to start once also. I'm leaning toward fuel pump but ?
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I have a 2005 Durango. 5.7. The other day I was sitting at a red light, it turned green. as soon as I hit the gas it died on me. No trouble lights, started right back up and drove on. Then today, same thing except it died 2 times in a row before I could continue on. Normal acceleration, no trouble lights. no other issues what so ever.
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Early this morning, after a night of freezing rain, i noticed the rear wipers running even though the car/ignition/wiper switch were all off. truck had not been started in over 24 hours. was unable to stop motor from running except only by disconnecting battery lead terminal. on trip to local mechanic hours later, motor would not stop, except when I turned-on front wipers -- then the rear motor would immediately stop at whatever position wiper blade was in. motor would not park blade. only tripping the front (separate) wiper switch would interrupt power to rear wiper motor. At mechanic, problem would not reappear. learned later that similarly, the front wipers would not quit two weeks earlier. at that time, the front wipers eventually stopped some time after ignition was killed and vehicle sat idle with all switches off. Common thread is problem appears during rain storms and does not manifest during dry times.
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I have a 2004 Durango 5.7 liter hemi that is having (has always had) intermittent idle problems. My parents were the original owners, and from the beginning, the car would die when you slow down to a stop. This doesn't happen every time you slow down, but probably 1-3 times per day. It doesn't seem to be temperature related, as it happens all year and when the car is warm or cold. My parents had it into the dealership numerous times and they couldn't figure it out. My husband has changed plugs and wires, used a variety of injector cleaners and there is no engine light and no fault codes. This is so frustrating! I might drive around all day with no problem than slow down/stop at a light to have it die.
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I have a 99 f-250 with about 250k miles. Truck is completely stock. It recently has developed a problem where when I start it in the mornings it surges at idle, 200 rpm or so. Sometimes it tries to die and did once but started back up. When driving it continues to rev itself up and is jerky. It runs rough and sounds like it could be missing on a cylinder. At other times it runs fine just like normal. Yesterday morning it started with these symptoms so I put in a new ford CPS. It ran great for about 100 miles that afternoon. This morning it started back with the same symptoms. The SES light stayed on longer than normal when I started it, but it went off. I don't have a scanner.
I thought it might be water in the fuel because this started the day after I filled it from my transfer tank. But the water in fuel light has never came on. I put a new fuel filter on it but it made no difference. Have pulled filter three times looking for water but never found a drop. Also pulled several buckets from the bottom of my transfer tank but found no water there either. Where to look next?
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I have changed pickup filter in tank and cleaned 2 tube filters in tank i thought that would fix it.
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Just started getting a p0300 random misfire code on the durango a couple days ago. pretty sure it isn't moisture related since it started on a nice sunny day. it was running pretty rough so it was obvious that it was misfiring. I changed the plugs since it was about time anyway, and they needed it and I cleared the codes. new plugs (put in the oem champion copper plugs) didn't make the problem go away. The engine still ran rough and the code came back. 2 of the plugs looked like they may have been fouling a little bit. they were a fair bit blacker than the rest of the plugs. I went ahead and changed the coils on those two cylinders and reset the codes again. Still runs rough and the p0300 came back. where do I go from here? I am not getting any specific cylinder codes so it makes sense to me that it isn't one or two cylinders not getting spark. 2003 durango 4.7 ....
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I am still trying to debug my 7.3 running sluggish in the 1200-1800 rpm range. The problem is intermittent. I checked the wiring harness under the valve covers to verify they are plugged in and there are no opens in the circuit. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the high pressure oil sensor.
This will run fine one time and a few miles down the road it will chug and smoke out the exhaust until I either get into the accelerator or back off and re press the accelerator. Again, it does it intermittently hot or cold.
I ran both a cylinder contribution test and perdels with a Snap On Verus. The cct passes everytime. The perdels have a couple of cylinders 5-6 and 8 fluctuate between 0 and 1.80% with #8 up to 2.5%.
My question is. Do the cylinders in the test correspond to the actual cylinders in the engine? Reason I am asking is the Verus does not follow the firing order on a gas engine. The cct is in order of 1-8 and I have to correlate the cct order to the firing order. Found this out the hard way when I had a bat cop on a 5.4 and replaced it only to have the same cylinder still show not firing.
I got out the graph leads and tested the cylinder and pulled the injector thinking it was bad. Everything showed good but the cct still showed it not firing. I had to unplug each coil and watch the cct to determine what the true cylinder in the test was. It turned out to mimic the firing order so I am asking out of concern that cylinder 3 in the perdels is really cylinder 3 or a different cylinder.
Btw, the perdels all show 0% if the transmission is in drive. I would have thought that a load on the engine would have showed higher perdel percentages with a load on it.
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2012 F250 6.2L - AC will be working well with all fan speeds, then airflow just stops and compressor kicks out. Will run (or actually not run) that way for 4-5 minutes, then all of a sudden the compressor kicks in and airflow restarts, and air is nice and cold for another 10 minutes or so when it'll cycle off on its own again.
I've tried all different combinations of AC/MaxAC/fan speeds/and temp settings with no change in behavior. Only occurs in warm weather when AC is on; when just using heat the blower never changes on it's own and everything is great.
BTW - I've looked through all the HVAC FAQs and probably 200 different threads that come up under different search terms, but haven't seen this particular problem. If it was just lack of cooling but airflow didn't change, then it'd be easy. Or if it was only blower issues in certain speed settings, that's got lots of fixes too. But nothing where cooling and fan quit and restart on their own together that I've found.
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I checked the fuel pressure it was good. Replaced the crank sensor behind the starter but that did not solve the problem. Replaced the Ignition control module (its located under the coil packs) and all is well now. The car never threw a code.
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I have driven small Toyota 4X4 pickups since 1980 including an '89 for the past 25 years and > 200,000 miles. One day a couple of months ago it would crank but would not start although battery and starter seem fine. I did some basic testing eventually measuring the ignition coil resistance (within published range) and inspecting the distributor cap (looked fine). Upon reassembly, it started right up and ran fine for a few weeks. I hadn't really done anything beside cleaning the rotor and cap contacts, moving around the wiring while in the process.
A few weeks ago I was driving in traffic just a few miles from home and it momentarily lost power twice within a mile. Check engine light was noted the second time. I was busy watching the cars ahead of me the first time. Both times it resumed running on it's own and I continued on. A couple of weeks later it died three times within a few miles from home.
The first two times I was able to pull off out of traffic. Several minutes later, I was able to restart the engine. The third time I was stuck in a turn lane at an intersection, police arrived right away and the vehicle was towed to the dealer where I had purchased it only two miles away. They have been unable to reproduce the problem but believe they have eliminated the fuel filter and fuel pump as the cause. They have driven the vehicle several miles and left it running for an hour and a half with no problems noted. No diagnostic codes were recovered.
They now want me to retrieve the undiagnosed, unrepaired vehicle. We know it will fail again, probably under the worst possible circumstances. In heavy traffic, a multi-vehicle crash with associated injuries or deaths could result. It's like if the vehicle itself doesn't tell them what to do, they don't know how to approach such a problem on their own any more. I'm not in a position to pour unlimited funds into a vehicle I have recently replaced (with a 2014 Tacoma). There must be a logical approach beyond checking the fuel filter and pump but they seem clueless. I can't safely drive the vehicle and won't offer it for sale until the problem is identified and corrected.
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I've recently acquired a 1982 Chevette. 4-door manual transmission, gas (not diesel). It's being used for a film, and it's perfect except for one little issue.
The car starts fine (sometimes needs a little starter fluid), and generally drives fine around town. But if you sit and idle for a couple minutes after driving (usually longer than a normal red light), once you start going (usually in 2nd gear), the engine sputters and the car dies. When this happens, the car won't start for 10-15 minutes. The engine turns over but doesn't fire. Starter fluid will get it going, but as soon as it burns that, it dies.
The problem appears to be that gas is not getting into the carburetor. It has a new fuel pump, and we've replace the fuel line and cleaned out the fuel filter. The carb is not stock. It's a Holley that it had when we purchased it. There are a lot of outlets capped off, and I don't know enough to know what might not be hooked up properly.
After the car dies, the fuel pump buzzes as if it's trying to pump fuel, but it doesn't appear to actually be pumping. Normally we just wait it out, but sometimes we kill the battery trying to restart it. We've successfully push-started it a couple of times, but that only works after enough time has passed that it would have probably started up fine anyway (if we hadn't killed the battery trying).
To sum up, if we follow this sequence of events, the problem will always present itself: start up normally (after not having driven for a couple hours), drive a few miles, idle for 2 or more minutes and then continue driving. Once we continue driving, it dies before we get up to speed.
What to do? I only know enough about this to barely describe the problem, but I am not a car guy. I've been learning little by little with this one. We have recently replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, ignition control module, ignition coil, thermostat, o2 sensor and alternator belt. None of this has had a noticeable affect on the problem.
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94 Chevy W-4 wheel-lift wrecker 5.7L TBI4l80e trans
Had a run of about 100 miles round trip on Wednesday. On the way back running at 65 mph on the interstate, got a couple of quick muffler-end back fires and engine died. Coasted to shoulder. Had memory of almost exact same incident last year and it was dead ignition module. Fortunately had a spare (used) module in glovebox. Swapped it out and engine started right up. Remainder of trip didn't quit, but ran very rough, lots of stumbling and getting it up to 60 mph was a struggle. Also when I got on surface roads it died twice when I was sitting stationary. It would restart, BUT only after cycling key; if I just turned to the key to "start" from "on" it would crank but not fire.
Limped it to my tow buddy's shop where I freeload and told him the tale. He said, "throw those old spare modules away and get a new one". Called the local parts house and had them send two, one for installation and one for glovebox. Took for test drive and appeared to be running okay except idle was a bit low. Couple of hours later went on a call and first stop sign I came to, went "blip" and I'm dead in the water again. Same story as earlier, must turn key off and back on to get it to fire. Drove rest of day without incident. Yesterday, no issues all day, drove total of about 120 miles both highway speed and surface. Gassed up this morning and mpg was above average (yay!), actually about .5 above average which is significant improvement (about 6%). Success?
Today died four times while sitting still. Same having to cycle key for it to fire. Did some quicky t/s to satisfy my curiosity about the key cycle thing. With truck running, pulled fuel pump fuse to kill truck. Then reinserted and it started up without having to turn key to off. Tried same thing by pulling one of the module plugs to simulate loss of signal to ignition. Reconnected and again fired up without key cycling.
No codes at any time since this came up.
Swapped out the module since I had bought a spare, no change.
Ohmd the ignition coil and no problems noted. So far, only dies sitting still at idle.
Additional info:
Plug wires, cap, and rotor <1000 miles. Distributor low miles and negligible play in shaft. Pickup coil checks right in middle of ohm range. None of these, of course, should need to have the ignition key cycled to restart if they caused a stall.
Next up will be replacing ignition relay (had to order), but I'm not very optimistic.
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So my jetta is 2001 i believe and idleing like its got major breathing problems, it goes from 700rpms to 1500 in cycles and sometimes dies out all together. I thought it was some kind of vaccum leak and had a few pipes in the engine bay replaced but it didnt fix it. Its also missing a muffler so its really load and annoying, especially when im at inn n out in the drive through lol. Other than that, the car doesn't seem to be running that bad but the check engine light is on as well as the traction light comes on sometimes for no reason.
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My Highlander with only 72K miles has an intermittent problem. I start it and it immediately dies. To get it going, as soon as engines starts I push and hold accelerator at about 1500 rpm for about 3 minutes, then ease off accelerator and generally no problem for the rest of the day. Been to regular mechanic with it twice, but car doesn't do it then. May go several weeks without this happening, then will have a series of these episodes. Not battery. Not throttle body. Mechanic doesn't think it's the type of gas being used.
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2000 Dakota, 4.7 V8 ... The 'CHECK GAUGES' light comes on intermittently. As soon as it comes on, the voltmeter gauge drops to zero (it is a brand new battery); the temperature gauge does flip flops; the truck dies right now. Walk home and come back later, and it starts up again. When you get home, you sure don't feel secure in taking it on the road again. The shop checked it and of course there was nothing wrong when they had it Where do I start the troubleshoot? Is it computer or?
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We have a 2003 Grand Prix. For the last few years it has this intermittent problem. Sometimes it just won't start and occasionally it will die while stopped at an intersection. I did some digging online and found out what the likely culprit is, but do not know how to fix it. I already spent a lot of money for a mechanic to claim he fixed it, but didn't.
According to online sources [URL] .... the security system TDM is at fault. It stops recognizing the VATS transponder in the key and thinks the car is being stolen. So, it cuts the connection to the engine. Clearly a dangerous situation if you are driving. My 17 yo daughter recently got stuck in a very busy intersection.
The temporary fix is to turn the key to the on position without turning the engine, wait 10 minutes then try starting the car. This is supposed to reset the security system. Now this is starting to not work. Someone suggested bypassing or modulating the TDM signal by adding in a resistor. I really don't feel equipped to do this though. Another solution is to buy a bypass module.
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my 99 durango's brake light and abs light came on at the same time could these have anything to do with each other?
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My 1999 Dodge Durango Speedometer went out so I replaced the speed sensor and it still doesn't work. The speedometer will come on after every once in a while but it doesn't seem to work below 40mph. My abs light and brake light are also constantly on.
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