Dodge W150 :: 1992 - Skipping At Slow Acceleration
Nov 18, 2012
My 1992 Dodge W150 truck skips when I am accelerating slowly from a stopped position. It is an automatic and seems to change gears properly. It skips between every gear change until you reach cruising speed. The skip does not occur or I do not notice it, if I accelerate rapidly. After I bought it, a mechanic installed new plugs, plug wires, coil, rotor, dist cap, fuel filter and speed sensor. Truck has over 90,000 miles.
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About two weeks ago i had a ton of work done to my W100: clutch, freeze plugs, valve seals, body mount bushing, headers, x-pipe dual exhaust. The shop did tell me before i picked it up that it had a lean pop and the carb needs to be rebuilt.
as of now, it idles fine and drive fine when cold, as it starts to warm up it starts to become problematic - it feels like the engine stumbles any time you try to maintain a constant speed (slight throttle engagement), it accelerates fine, but that's about it. You have to drive it in a constant state of accelerate and foot off gas because it does not like you foot on the gas pedal just a little. if you do keep your foot slightly engaged it will stumble and the exhaust will pop - not so much a backfire as there's not at jerking.
-both coolant sensors are new
-spark plugs are FSM spec champion copper 404/rn12yc
-plug wires are a year old (msd cheaper line)
-timing seems fine (around 8-10 BTDC)
-watched at night to try to see if any arcing was happening, none that i could see or hear
-finagled some exhaust restrictors on the exhaust tips out of rubber plumbing couplers and big lag bolt washers to try to recreate the backpressure from the old exhaust, no difference
-went around the vacuum lines with carb cleaner and propane, couldn't find any distinguishable leaks
Fuel filter about a year old- new fuel pump installed while at shop.
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I have a 1983 Dodge W150 that has a problem. It stops running with the electrical system completely shut down. If the battery is taken out of the system, and then reconnected, it starts and runs fine. Some history: a trailer brake control was installed a few years ago. Where the wire ran from the battery through the firewall, the insulation chafed and eventually shorted out. The fuseable links were burned out. I disconnected the brake control from the battery and replaced the fuseable links with a fuse block. The truck ran fine for 18 months. It has stopped twice in the last couple of days. Apparently something like a circuit breaker is tripping and then resetting when the battery is disconnected and then reconnected. My questions are
1) what is the breaker likely to be intended to protect,
2) where would the breaker be found, and
3) what is the likely cause of the breaker tripping (a short, but in what system)?
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All - I've got a 2010 LR D4 (UK Spec) and within the past two weeks it has developed a strong shudder and skipping when I am turning at slow speeds. It is worst when I am backing up and turning the wheel (like when backing out of a parking spot). It feels like the problem is coming from the left rear side of the vehicle, but it is a noticeable, strong shudder and skipping.
I have taken it into my local dealer for service, but they have not yet been able to identify the problem.?
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My Buick Park Ave 2000 is having an acceleration problem. It seems to be skipping at different times. It happens more often at lower speeds than higher speeds. It still happens at higher speeds though. I was on a long trip of about 180 miles and on the highway it seemed fine. What do you think is causing this? I did take it to a garage and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and of course true to form nothing happened when they took it for a spin. They did computer checks and everything was fine.
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I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey. It consistently, randomly skips during acceleration. Have brought it to Honda and they said nothing is findable. Another mechanic tried to sell me an engine mount, stating that this was the cause. At this point, brought it to Honda to have this verified. They scoffed and said the guy was nuts and that my engine mount was fine.
As for the skipping, the only other way I can describe the feeling is like tires spinning on ice, but without the sound of spinning tires, just that jumping over ice feeling. It happens when I accelerate from a stop, or even while I'm on the highway, as I go from a steady speed to an increased speed. It sounds like a jump in the engine.
I keep thinking TRANSMISSION! But as I've said, I have brought it to two mechanics with no answer! VERY FRUSTRATING. The skipping has been going on randomly for years.
Also, the D and engine light started over the summer, behaving consistently randomly, usually a day after I have pumped gas. It then shuts off on its own after some random amount of time. Honda reset the computer panel and denied any problems. I'm not surprised, and yet I am.
On a separate note, I was an idiot and drove on hot tar! I wasn't paying attention to the tar trucks. Did I ruin my tires?!
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I have a 92 and the transmission has started acting up. When I put it in gear it sits for about 5 to 10 seconds before engaging mainly Drive and overdrive sometimes reverse. it shifts fine when I am driving. A shop told me the front pump is going out. Would it be worth it to flush and put some Lucas fluid in it. I am trying to advoid spending hundreds having the tranny rebuilt or replaced.
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I have a '92 Dodge B250 Van named Lucy. she has less than 90,000 miles on her. I don't drive much.), but I'm starting to lose hope of fixing her problem. The problem is that the engine keeps dying, and nobody seems to be able to figure out what's causing it. It almost always happens when I'm sitting at, speeding up from or slowing down to a red light, curve, intersection or stop sign. Sometimes she'll die when I first crank her and am sitting in park, and sometimes she'll die when I'm sitting on the brake in line at a restaraunt. Sometimes she'll start immediately back up, and sometimes she takes a few minutes to turn back over. Sometimes she'll die once or twice a week, sometimes she'll go a couple of weeks between episodes.
Nobody can zero in on the problem because she NEVER does it when at the shop. She once died as I was pulling into the garage bay, but not while they were looking at her. So far I have had a new fuel pump and distributor put in, with each doing nothing more than costing me lots of money and getting my hopes up when it takes a few days after leaving the garage for her to die.
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Purchased a new-to-us 1st gen dodge pickup, a 92 D150 v6. It's used once or twice a week at max and only has around 90k miles on it.
So a few months after we bought the truck, it stalled, or more like choked, out while driving on these country, hilly roads, at around 50 mph.. it happened once and we didn't think much of it. It happened again not too long after that, though, and we discovered we could push through the stall/choke by giving it a lot of gas.. it sounds terrible, and shakes and sputters, but eventually catches back and starts to run normal.
As months passed, the problem happened more often. So we changed the spark plugs and wires recently. No difference. In a given 40 minute trip along 45-55 mph country roads, the truck will choke and sputter at least 5 or 6 times. It's now so bad that sometimes giving it gas isn't enough to fix the issue and we have to pull over.
We've got an appt scheduled with a mechanic, Our friends think maybe it has to do with the choke plate or carburetor. It seems to happen more often if the AC is on, and other than this, the truck runs great. It starts up fast and idles fine.
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1992 Ford 150 4wd ... Starting sequence turns over very slowly when ignition is activated. Starter, Battery, Plugs have been tested. Spark has been checked and is active at ignition sequence. Could this be an amperage draw when ignition is activated due to a short in ignition circuit?
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'92 Dynasty is a good runner, but, once the engine gets warmed up, I shut off the engine at my own risk. If the car sits for a while with the hood open, it will start again, but attempting to start immediately after shutting off will result in the engine spinning over but no sounds of attempted ignition. It seems that once the coil is cooled down to slightly more than body temp the engine will start like nothing was wrong.
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This has happened to me three times now. The first time was at a stop sign, the second going 70mph on the highway, and the third time at a stop sign. I will be driving and then all of a sudden the engine loses power. The more I push on the gas, the more the engine wants to die. If the engine stays running after I pull over, it idles very rough, and still if I press the gas, it wants to die. This seems to only happen after driving long distances for maybe an hour or so.
When this happens, if I let the car sit for about an hour, it will start up just fine, idle smooth, and drive normally. This is a 1992 Dodge Dynasty with the 3.3L V6, Fuel Injected engine. The car only has 78,000 miles on it and is in excellent condition. It's such a nice car that I would like to figure out what's going on with the engine because I would like to drive it for a lot longer. So far I have replaced the ignition coil pack, the oxygen sensor, map sensor, fuel filter, and spark plugs an wires.
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I recently acquired a 1992 Buick Park Ave. My problem is that she shakes as i slow down and stalls when I stop. Usually about 10 minutes or so of driving. It doesn't stall every time but less when i baby the brake (i think) Its getting worse quickly and I've changed the spark plug wires and that didn't work also the previous owner recently changed the Cam sensor yet I'm getting a code 41.
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Why is my 1992 ford explorer self accelerating between 15- and 25 mph?
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Alright, so my battery is fully charged and there's water in it. When I turn they key, there is a rapid mechanical clicking clearly coming from the starter area, but no attempt to turn over. Stuck solenoid? Bad starter relay? Bad starter? Missing teeth on the flywheel? Seized engine? The Mayan calendar apocalypse?
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I have a '92 accord 5 speed. I began to notice that when I step on the accelerator theirs a slight hesistation. It is very prominent when shifting gearsNo problem when the car is idling.
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In cold weather at low rpm's, my truck has poor acceleration until the rpm's increase and it takes off. I replaced spark plugs, wire, cap, and rotor.
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I have 92 ranger with 3.0 v6 in it.
It flashes out code 212 ive replaced the ICM and checked the spout connector for corrosion but it still flashes out 212 and has a rough idle no power on acceleration condition.
also when the idle starts acting up the check engine light stays real dim and if you rev it it will get brighter
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I have a 2007 Dodge Charger. Battery light came on, I had AAA come out to me to test everything because I didn't want to be stranded just in case the car died while I was out doing errands.
I forget the name, but he connects it to the battery. It tested the alternator, battery and the starter. Turns out, the alternator had an open diode. Battery was in good shape and the starter too.
I ordered a battery, and had to wait to get it installed because my mechanic was busy working on a whole bunch of other cars. So I had to use the whining alternator for a whole week before I could get the new one in.
But he got it installed. And put everything back together where it should be (I think). He told me to start the car. It started up beautifully! No troubles at all.
A couple days later, it started to struggle cranking to start. Taking into account the battery and starter are good and the alternator is like-new (refurbished). I do not understand why it's having issues.
There's no battery light on. Why would it, a couple days later, start having an issue? Could my mechanic have not fully connected wires to the alternator? When loosening the idle arm to loosen the belt, could the have messed with the timing?
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Ok long story short I was given a conversion van that is built on a e150 van and has a 5.8 liter with an e40d tranny.. This van sat for at least 3 years till recently..
I have cleaned all electric connections on the tranny and the one on the rear differential . New filter and fluid but did not drain the converter after driving it for about an hour we finally got it to start shifting gears automatically the problem is it wants to shift only under heavy acceleration and then only to second at about 35 mph and drive at about 60 mph and over drive around 80 mph and all this only under heavy acceleration you let of the gas a little and it starts down shifting..
What I may look for next that may be pretty easy to try. My thoughts at this point are maybe the torque converter is going south but I am hoping for a more simple solution..
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I have a 2005 Dodge Magnum with the V-8 Hemi and after re-fueling the car will die if driving slow or try to die if driving at highway speeds. This only last about 5 minutes if driving down the highway and stops after a couple of restarts in town. The car will start back up without a check engine light. We have tried different gas stations and putting gas in when empty or 1/2 tank and still does it most of the time.
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