I have a '95 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo that wants to overheat when running the a/c...have repaired electrical fans, replaced water pump, flushed the cooling system to no avail. Looking for info about waterless coolants?
View 19 RepliesI have a 1995 3000gt sl. When im on the freeway running at 80 mph and maintaining that speed it starts to overheat.I can reduce my speed and it starts to cool down I can also turn heater on high and that cools it down I cant hit the exit ramp and by the time I get stopped at the end of ramp its cooled back down.I can start it and sit with it running and it never gets hot.If I stay below 55 I never have any overheating its only when I increase and maintain 75 or faster I have a problem. Also when it was hot outside I turned my air on max cool one day and it got hot real fast.So to fix that I just didn't run my air any more. then a few months went by and this started to happen.50mph and slower its fine.But at freeway speed limit it starts running hot. Only with increased speed to the engine does it start getting hot.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1993 Dodge Stealth (3.0 V6 SOHC) that has been idling a little rough, especially when the a/c is on. It was suggested to me that a dirty throttle body could be the cause, so I cleaned it. After I did that it ran great with the exception of idling around 1000 RPM instead of the usual 300, then the next day driving home from work (ran fine on the way TO work) whenever I tried to coast or engine break my engine began to shudder and run really rough! what could be happening?
View 1 RepliesMy 95 3000gt is smoking after about 30 minutes of driving. Smokes mainly when idle and upon acceleration. car has about 200k in mile. what could cause this.
View 5 RepliesWhen I drive the 1991 Stealth for an extended period - more than 50 miles, at least, the car intermittently presents a loud rotational banging sound from the passenger side front end. If I depress the clutch peddle and decelerate, it slows down/stops. It is not a continous noise, and it only comes up every so many months. I have taken it to mechanics numerous times, and there have been guesses/fixes to address the problem, but it is still ocurring. Other than this, the car is in great shape and runs great!
Here is what has been done to the car that is relevant:
New Rack and Pinion Steering,
New Tie Rod(s),
New Brake Pads, Transmission Rebuilt, valve re-work.
It does not happen continuously, so it does not seem like it would be a CV joint., When it first starts to come on it is noticed most when turning. But then it gets louder and just does it even when going straight. When the problem first started happening, the transmission had been done within a month or two prior, and I noticed one of the transmission bolts was missing (front center bottom). I was told at that time this was not the issue and since the place where the bolt goes in was stripped, nothing cold be done to replace the bolt, except to take out and replace the entire mount.
3.0, SOHC engine...car started for coolant system leak check. Idle jumped to. 3000 RPMs. Shut car off...disconnected throttle cable from throttle body. Started car again, engine ran normally, no coolant leak found. Reconnected accelertor cable to throttle body. Tried starting car again, started rough then died after a few seconds. Changed fuel filter...disconnected fuel line to fuel rail and lots of comes out. MFI solenoid inside car clicks several times after engine dies. Engine tries to run, but wont, after it dies. ECU bad? Other issue?
View 4 RepliesI have a 91 Mitsubishi gto TT. I love my car and i was really hoping to repaint it soon but this problem is becoming more apparent. My car runs fine for the first 15 minutes, runs like a beauty! but then once it is warmed up it starts to struggle. I cant accelerate hard because it hesitates alot. The problem im having is pin pointing the problem. Ive searched a lot of stuff on the web and some people have similar problems.
Could it be bad spark plugs and wires causing some cylinders not to run properly? If so then why does does it run fine for the first 10-15 minutes?
I'll probably have my plugs and wires changed to see if that changes anything.
I just dont understand why my car accelerates great when cold but when hot starts to run sluggish.
My Taurus will not turn off. My son calls and says the key turns back from rum but does not turn off. It will still engage the starter motor if you try. I stopped and picked up a ignition lock to install at home. I finally got the lock out while the car is still running and pop in the new one. Still will not turn off. Then the car overheats, coolant everywhere. Get the hose to try and cool it down a little. Break down and pull the distributor wire and the negative cable.
View 9 Replies1995 Isuzu Rodeo. Replaced water pump, thermostat, timing belt & components. Now it over heats & no heat in cab. I was told to "burp" the cooling system but can't find the bleed valve. Is there even one on the V6 engine???
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext. Cab Z71 4x4 that I've had since '97. Last year it started over-heating, the temperature stays exactly where it is supposed to when I'm running down the highway, but starts to over-heat when I slow down to make a turn (up to about 230), but cools back down at an idle. The Truck has a standard 5.7L TBI 350
Trying to remedy this problem I've changed the thermostat 4 times (with a 160, 180, and 195), changed the radiator, changed the map sensor (thinking that it might be leaning the fuel out to much), changed both temperature sensors, replaced the water pump 3 times (the 3rd time I ordered a Flowcooler waterpump from Summit), changed the instrument cluster and computer thinking it might be electrical, replaced the catalytic converter (thinking it might be restricted), I even replaced every hose on the motor, I then installed a brand-new GM 5.7L 350 crate engine but it did the same thing.
After installing the new engine I replaced the knock sensor, the O2 sensor, changed the throttle body (with one from another motor i had for my son's '94), replaced the distributor, replaced the injectors, checked and made sure there wasn't and blockage in the center intake, cut the exhaust at the catalytic converter just to make sure there was no restrictions.
I recently tried a manual temp gauge just to see if the motor was actually getting hot, which it is.
My neighbor has a 1995 Kia Sportage that is overheating...he said the last time it got hot a stream of water shot up onto his windshield. He has been unable to find a leaky hose, etc. Could this be the head gasket?
View 1 RepliesMy 2003 Dodge Neon started overheating. We replaced the thermostat, temperature sending unit, flushed the radiator, checked for blockages, cleaned the radiator, changed the head gasket and water pump.It can run for about 10-15 minutes driving or 30 minutes idling before it overheats. The fans will kick on. The thermostat opens up. Pressure builds up on the radiator hose. When it gets hot, it boils back into the reservoir.I've been careful not to let it get into the red since the head gasket change.We sent the head off and had it planed.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2005 Durango, ~142k miles. The end of May, I had to get the transmission solenoid replaced, which may not be relevant. About 10 days later, the car started overheating when idling. There was a crack on the radiator neck, by the cap, and I had to get the radiator replaced, and the thermostat. The shop said the fan was wobbling, and they replaced the fan clutch as well. The fan was a lot louder than it had been, the mechanic said he had put in a higher performance fan in and maybe that was why, and offered to put in a lower performance one if I wanted. I declined.
Six weeks later, it started overheating while idling again. I brought it back, and the water pump was out. By now I was checking the temperature gauge constantly when idling, and it never quite hit the center until suddenly after 4 weeks, then it suddenly started overheating while idling again. I brought it back again, and they couldn't find any problem except he said the radiator was about a cup low, and maybe there had been an air bubble.
I've been constantly checking the temperature gauge since, and it once again never quite hit middle until 2 days ago, and now suddenly it's overheating when idling. I checked the coolant level after it had been sitting for a couple hours (and I had only driven it for about 10 minutes so far this morning, before that. I'm afraid there is a blown head gasket or something, but if so, why would it run so well for an extended period, and then suddenly start overheating again, twice now? They haven't done a compression check.
In case this is relevant, every few days the car will just stall out when coming to a stop, and sometimes the idle seems rough.
2010 2.4L Dodge Avenger SXT... Last month my car started overheating while I was idling but was fine otherwise. About a week later my cars check engine light and my electronic throttle control light came on. I took it to an auto store immediately and did the diagnosis on it. It came up with P2181 Cooling system performance with no reported fixes. Few days later it started overheating while driving. It only took two or three blocks before in the red. Decided to go to the local dealership (didn't want to go there but car is still under warranty) and they said since my boyfriend had messed with it trying to see what was wrong it wasn't under warranty. They said the wrong kind of coolant was in and that i needed to replace my thermostat/ So we changed out the two thermostat and drained/replace new coolant. It is still is over heating.
View 4 RepliesI have had some ongoing issues with this car the last 3 years over overheating, I have like clock work been replacing my thermostat in the line, well this time I replaced that danged thing again and the heating was still an issue, (yes oil and coolant filled. ) so I replaced the sensor in the motor and the fan would still not engage . so I pulled the fan and connected direct current to the fan and it did indeed start right up. so its not the fan motor, I hooked a direct current where the ah hell mental block here the plug sensor by the fuse, that was replaced, and yet still no fan engaged.. Here is the rub, If I have the AC on the motor fan will run...
View 5 RepliesI just bought a 95' 3.0 V6 4 runner that had overheating issues that caused head gasket to fail. I fixed all the reasons it was blowing the gasket with a new radiator & thermo. Now, temp no longer an issue but the automatic trans is slipping but has been getting alittle better as I drive it more. I noticed the trans fluid was pretty burnned when I replaced radiator..so will replacing the trans fluid & filter fix this issue ? Or could there be another issue ? My check engine light is also on, I will check the codes soon. I am getting horrible gas mileage, but probly from the slipping trans I guess.
View 1 RepliesMy 1995 chevy camaro has been overheating. at first i thought it was the thermostat sticking because there was no spewing or smoking so i changed the thermostat and my car was still over heating. I finally found out that the water pump was leaking fluids. so I changed out the water pump and filled it full of coolant. i turned on my car and within 10 minutes the gauge went up to 260 degrees and went down a little bit but stayed around 260, there was no spewing or leaking or smoking again. I was thinking that maybe now it could be the sensor but im not sure.
View 1 RepliesWhy is it that after 15 minutes of idling the coolant starts to boil up and spill and the car begins to overheat?
View 2 RepliesI know the alternator needs replacing but why are the fan relays not working correctly. Also, the top radiator hose is really hot? I replaced the thermostat as well as the coolant reservoir? I also replaced a couple of the fan relays from my older wrecked Camry. Would the noisy alt that is going out have something to do w/the fans and fan relays not working properly?
View 6 RepliesI have a '95 Pontiac Grand AM. The Heater Coil/Core is leaking onto the passenger side floor. Bad Core. In addition, the car keeps over heating intermittently, whether it's stopped at a light or driving over 35mph out on the road. The gauge goes into the red, but then after a minute it goes back down. We replaced the Thermostat thinking that it was sticking. Drove it around a good 10 mile run. Didn't over heat. Next day, it over heats. Just took it to the garage where they ran it and did compression check.
For over 4 hours they tried to get it to overheat. It wouldn't. They replaced an old radiator cap. They said if that doesn't work, it could be the head gasket (no sign of any fluids mixing - oil cap is clean. No milky residue) or replace the thermostat, which we said we already did. Drove it 2 miles. Started to get hot again. Going to bypass the core to see if this might be the problem. Could there be air bubble from bad core? Not sure if this is the right direction, but I am at a total loss as to what it could be. Pump is running. Radiator fan running.
My daughter has a dodge stratus 2001 with about 150,000 miles she has had it for about 2 years. She has had it over heat a couple of times and has had it repaired simply fixing a radiator hose. It overheated again and it was almost empty of antifreeze. She has been filling up and checking the radiator level and fills it as needed, which could be daily or now only weekly. She took it to a mechanic who thought it was a blown valve-cover gasket and basically said the car repair would be more than the car is worth. I have a feeling the car did not get really checked out. She didn't really know this guy and took it there because it was close to her. She is still driving it, but only short distances and always stops before it over heats. She really cannot afford another car for a least another year.
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