Dodge - Ram :: Pulls To Right - Vibrates Slightly And Loses Power?
Sep 2, 2011
I have a Dodge Ram 1500 2 wheel drive truck. While driving on the highway, it will sometimes start to pull to the right, vibrate slightly and slow down/lose power, as if something was impeding one of my right tires from turning. It feels like something is seriously wrong, but then it will then go away and drive normally after a couple minutes.
What's happening? Should I take it into a tire shop, or regular mechanic?
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Turns out the crank shaft position sensor only fixed the cars ability to start and stop and did not cure the acceleration issue. What happens? The symptoms occur during the following conditions.
1. Hard acceleration
2. Going up hills
3. With heavy loads
Basically the car loses power and sounds like it is getting muffled. Then it just picks up rapidly and takes off.I have tested out the throttle position sensor and it checks out fine. The car never completely stops.If I feather the throttle, it picks up and keeps moving forward.
Haven't tried the EGR valve, fuel filter or fuel pump.
Strange thing though.The car was sitting for about two months until I replaced the crank shaft position sensor. Then it started up fine, and ran without problems.The tank went low, and I filled it with gas.AFter that, the car started having problems. The only thing I can think of is two things.
1. When I filled it up is raised sediment and somehow clogged something.
2. The excessive pressure in the tank is causing issues.
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Trying to figure out what the heck is going on with my 1996 Dodge Ram Van B2500. I purchased it a year ago, and for the past several months, its been acting up. Starts right up first start of the day. As day goes on, has difficulty starting, and stalls intermittently, also loses power with the gas pedal at higher speeds. It surges and big big backfires come out of the tail pipe.
This has gotten worse and worse, particularly the past 3 days. New computer put in it a few months ago, new battery, alternator, ignition coil, plugs, wires & distributor cap, oil filter, radiator and yesterday put in a new air filter, replaced both oxygen sensors AND the idle air control...alas, the same problems exist. Check engine light came on, but off today. Its so intermittent, and rarely GEN light would come on for a minute. Van would go for a couple weeks with no problems, but now its gotten real BAD! Fingers crossed I can make it to the auto parts store!
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I have a 2000 Dakota 5.9 truck that has all of a sudden started to idle rough, loses power over 3000rpm or any kind of reasonable acceleration , with a big sucking sound from the throttle body ( no leaks), seems like it is not getting fuel. Someone mentioned it maybe the "MAP" sensor.
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I recently got new Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires mounted on new OEM Toyota rims and am noticing my 2012 Avalon pulls slightly to the left. This car is the first front wheel drive car I have ever owned & am wondering if this is somewhat normal. It did not seem to do this when I had the old tires(Michelin Energy MXV4) tires with the original rims. It is not THAT bad but I DO notice it. My current mileage is 36k.
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So due to a puncture I got earlier this week, I had to buy a new front passenger side right tire. Now the car pulls very slightly to the right. Is this due to having about 6k miles on the left tire and a brand new right tire or do I need an alignment again?
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My car has a left front pulling issue.
I have a 2003 Forester with 74,000 miles. At 55,000 (18 months ago) I replaced the Kumho tires with Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires and immediately had an issue where over 50-60 mph the car slightly pulls to the left under all road conditions except extreme right lane well crowned. Previously it always tracked straight, though seemingly less accurately than with the newer tires.
I've had it aligned 3 times by two different shops and they always find some small out of align issue they correct and say the problem should be better. One of them the Subaru dealer. Nobody sees a suspension issue. The tires have been rotated at least 4 times. No unusual wear. Wearing nicely. But over 50-60, while slight, it is so annoying I would love to deal with this nuisance issue which sometimes puts me out of my lane. And always to the left. I've checked tire pressure and have even over-compensated by raising the front left pressure to rid the issue but it won't quite go away.
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My son has a 1963 Mercury Comet with a 170 straight 6 and automatic trans. Originally it would die when he made a sharp left. We fixed that by rebuilding the carb and putting in a new float. Then we found that the back brakes weren't working and had to replace a clogged brake line. Now for the weird problem. Whenever he brakes it pulls slightly left and the motor almost dies. If he anticipates the pull and steers right the car keeps running beautifully. I am assuming that the pull is probably caused by not getting all of the air out of the brake lines, but why does the car almost die unless he steers right when braking? The car does not die anymore when he makes left turns. These are non power hydraulic single cylinder brakes so there is no vacuum connection involved. The fuel filter and pump have been replaced.
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While accelerating onto the highway we get a slight vibration at just about 50mph, minor but noticeable. Something to worry about? Also, there is a water leak in the right rear tail light.
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I have been a reader for years and finally have a problem worthy of your consideration. I recently acquired my brother-in-law’s old 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan. It has over 200,000 miles on it, so I am not inclined to spend much on repairs. It has an automatic transmission which runs well, but pulls distinctly to the right when it shifts gears. The effect is strongest when it goes for 2nd to 3rd, but it is noticeable at other gears. It does not pull when it is running normally. Tires are new and looks to be balanced and aligned. Likewise, the brakes seem ok. First, what is going on? And, second, is it dangerous to drive it in this condition and will it get worse if unattended?
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I'm the only owner. Since new the rear brakes have never generated even a fraction of the dust of the front brakes. I have replaced the front and rear pads but never had the rotors turned. The rotors aren't perfectly smooth but they don't have any deep ruts.
Anyway, my brake pedal vibrates when I apply the brakes. And the rear brakes squeak randomly when braking even though there are new pads. I always felt they squeaked because there is not much braking power in the rear.
My Durango stops okay. I'm worried about catastrophic failure because of the vibrating.
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I have an '05 Dodge Neon SXT (4.0) with 113,000 miles on it. A few days ago, I had three cracked motor mounts replaced. However, I'm experiencing an increased amount of vibration when the engine is idle. I've had the timing belt , the accessory belt, water pump and valve replaced within the last year. I also recently had a coolant flush and an oil change. I was told that the timing belt cover is broken and I intend to have that fixed in the near future. However, I do not believe the timing belt cover is the cause of the vibration since it was broken and did not cause vibration before the motor mounts were replaced. Why I having the vibration?
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I drove my daughter's Dodge Neon last night and found that when I'm on the highway, the RPM goes up slightly every few seconds. I had about 30 minutes of driving until I was home so I tried to figure out if my speed had anything to do with it.
It doesn't happen when I decelerate or am at an idle. When I'm on a flat stretch of highway and using the gas pedal, the RPMs will increase. I didn't notice the feel of the engine changing, I heard the engine speed up a bit.
What kind of problem is this? The car has 109,000 miles on it.
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2001 Ex 7.3 4x4 with 4" lift (6" with 37" Pro Comp tires)
All new front end steering components.
All new Shocks (bilstein)
All tires properly inflated to same PSI
All new brake rotors, calipers, caliper mounts, and pads.
When under hard acceleration the vehicle pulls to the left and I have to compensate by steering to the right. Under deceleration the vehicle pulls to the right and I have to compensate by steering to the left.
I am about to change all four brake lines to Braided Stainless Steel lines, replace all leaf spring bushings with polyurethane, and install a rear anti-sway bar. I'm going through this methodically enough or am I just building a brand new truck one part at a time?
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I recently had a problem with my car jerking slightly on highway, and I think I've resolved this by replacing the spark plugs. It does still do it, but maybe only one or two jerks per 100 miles. It used to be one or two jerks every 30 seconds. So I think I've found at least part of the source of the jerk. I could possibly purchase new spark plug caps (wires) and hopefully that would put that problem to rest.
Dodge Intrepid ES
3.2L V6
126,000 Miles
So my car has white smoke coming from the exhaust. On start up, on warm up, on hot idle, and on cold idle. The coolant in the reservoir is quite skanky looking and I've been meaning to flush it but haven't gotten around to it. But I've done quite a lot of research lately and also just have my own personal experience (employed as a mechanic at a small engines shop for quite some time.) and I've found the most common answer would be a head gasket problem, or even more serious, a cracked block, causing coolant in small amounts to leak into the cylinders. I figured that would be the answer I would find but I like to do some research before I go prodding at my car.
The exhaust is white, not grey, not blue, not black. A nice pure white color, and obviously comes out thicker and in larger amounts when you give it some gas. Also it smells sweet. Another clue it could be coolant.
Another thing that made me worry was when I replaced the old spark plugs, they looked like they were being run in a really lean engine. Barely any carbon tracks on them, almost clean looking. Which worries me. It could be suggesting that I COULD be burning water (coolant) in my engine. The coolant level in the reservoir does go down but at a pretty small amount.
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My 2011 Dodge Journey, V-6, auto, awd, pulls hard to the right on hard acceleration. It always pulls just as the transmission shifts. My dealer's service manager said its due to the front drive shafts being different lengths and torgueing differently.
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My 2003 F250 6.0 pulls to the right when driving at any speed. In order to keep it going straight the steering wheel must be slightly tilted to the left, not much but a little. When the brakes are applied hard it will go to the left slightly if you are not holding the wheel good. Neither of these are terrible, just a nuisance. I'm worried about uneven tire wear too. One front wheel bearing was replaced a few weeks ago. It had this problem before that and still does after. Does this sound like an alignment or maybe something more?
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My 2003 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 3.9v6 auto trans does not shift properly. I have to lift my foot off the accelerator for it to shift. If I don't it just screams at a high RPM and sounds as if it is about to blow. It has a hard time making it up a small incline such as an overpass. Truck will not shift properly when going upgrade. Engine will rev at 4500-5000 rpm but will not shift until I slightly release the gas pedal. Truck will also perform multiple hard up shifts when in cruise control going upgrade.
Took the truck to the dealer reprogrammed the computer with a "flash update" that was no dice. The technician is now saying the original shifting problem is normal because dodge reprogrammed the transmission to avoid multiple up & down shifting when going up a grade. This was down to put "less stress" on the transmission. Doesn't make sense, dodge is saving the transmission by making it work less and destroying the engine by letting it rev at 5000 rpm. Automatic transmission will not shift to third gear unless the gas pedal is almost fully released. Transmission will not downshift to pass.
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So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
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I have a 1999 Ford F450 Tow truck with a 7.3 turbo. It loses power and misses when I give it gas but when driving normal speed no problems.
I had a ford technician look at problem with a computer and he said number 8 injector . Today number 8 was changed.
Test drove it same problem. I also changed th fuel filter. And I emptied the tank to make sure No water
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1994 f250 7.3 turbo problem.. runs great on the level.. Cruises 65 no problem.. We have an 8% grade coming from town and half way up it starts cutting out and sounds like a jack brake under the hood and loses power.. Once over the top it clears out and runs fine again.... I just changed the fuel filters but no luck... I have been wrenching on cars all my life but no diesels..
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