Dodge - Ram :: Cannot Rev Higher Than 3000 RPM
Oct 11, 2016
Its a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 with 5.9 gas engine w/ 115K miles.
The truck started running really rough and I was 60 miles from home. The issue was bad plug wires, dist cap, rotor. These items were heavily corroded. I was able to get the truck home and then replaced the typical tune up items. Truck was running good as new. I drove it around and everything seemed fine until I took it out to the highway. Runs great at low RPM but cuts out and cannot accelerate above ~3,000-3300 RPM depending on the gear. When I get to ~ 3K rpm it starts cutting out and surging and feels like I am riding a bucking bronco.
The CEL has been on the truck for a couple of years and I have not checked it due to mice chewing up my wires a couple years ago (the joys of country living). I never rewired up the OBD2 port. It has run great and gas mileage has been normal until last weekend. Funny part is when it started running bad, the CEL went off.
I have had suspicion that the catalytic converter has been partially blocked because it has made noise before it gets warmed up. My thought is that when the engine was running rough, my gas mileage went really low for that trip home. My thought is all the extra gas that ended up in the exhaust has finally killed the cat and now i have a significantly restricted exhaust.
My next step is to install a test pipe and see if that solves the problem.
View 12 Replies
Advertisement
I have been noticing this Rotten egg/sulfur exhaust smell I have been getting for the past 2 months. So far it only happens when the engine hits 3000rpm or higher.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2000 Dakota 5.9 truck that has all of a sudden started to idle rough, loses power over 3000rpm or any kind of reasonable acceleration , with a big sucking sound from the throttle body ( no leaks), seems like it is not getting fuel. Someone mentioned it maybe the "MAP" sensor.
View 2 Replies
I have a '96 Dodge Ram 1500. The only way I can describe the problem is when I go around 75, it feels like it loses power for a split second, then recovers. It will do this repeatedly, until I slow down a bit, then it won't do it at all. But once I speed up it will do it again. My first thought was the distributor/cap.
View 7 Replies
Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
View 7 Replies
Let's say I'm going from zero to forty, my RPMs will hit over 3000, but when it shifts, the RPMS will drop down to 2000-ish really hard, making the car jerk. It's not a smooth drop, it's like a split second. Upon acceleration there is also a very rapid knocking sound. There's no lights on my instrument cluster.
This trouble all started after I had my alternator die, then having the car towed a few months back. Ever since then this problem has been getting worse. Wat this could be?
View 1 Replies
I just had a new clutch installed yesterday. Bully stg3 with flywheel. My 2012 R has 22k. I had to change it since my stock clutch was slipping at 3000rpm with the Unitronic stg1+.
The second I start the car and stay on neutral, give a little gas I hear a super loud grinding noise. It stop when I press the clutch. On idle I don`t hear nothing and when I drive everything is fine until I release the clutch and when I don`t press the gas.
The shop said they never heard anything that loud and they confirm that everything was installed correctly. Other then the noise the clutch is fine and works very well.
View 15 Replies
New iac and now runs at 3000, replaced iac, input shft speed sensor,and #3 fuel inlector because of codes. Have factory shop manual. Old iac had higher than factory ohm resistance by 5 ohms on each test of terminals 1 and 2 and then on 2 and 3. new iac [wells] is 4 ohms higher on both tests . Old iac ran at 1200 rpm new at 3000 rpm. tps is smooth on resistance test so assume it is ok. Blocked off all hoses to intake manifold to check for open pcv or evap. valve but still the same. 2001 elantra gls is giving me a fit. soft reset of ecm did nothing. Pulling pigtail on iac will drop rpm's to about 1100 but runs rough.
View 8 Replies
Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. It's the second time the car does that, I'm driving for a good 5 minutes and I just do a normal stop at a red light and when I try to speed up doesn't go upper then 3000 rpm, I try the 1st gear, 2sd gear,.... until the 6th one and also the neutral... no more then 3000 rpm... Try to turn off the car , turn it back on , same thing. I don't have the engine light on. The fastest i can go it's 85KM maybe 90KM down a hill...:P On 5th Gear.
This time I took a video of it I will upload it today or tomorrow.
Last time i just leave the car in the parking lot the morning after everything was great I went to the dealership and he basicly told me "no engine light, no problem". It's a 6 speed manual and the GL 2012. A brand new car .... I was hopping a bit more from it.... What could be the problem?
View 19 Replies
I notice that recently my Santa Fe does not run over 3.000 RPM in highway. Motor goes to close 3.000 RPM but does not shift to next speed and it feels as a lack of power, especially when uphill. Stopping, turning engine off and then on again seams to solve this problem, everything runs ok but suddenly the problem appears again.
My Hyundai is a 2007 New Santa Fe CRDI 2.2 (Diesel engine), automatic.
View 7 Replies
Like the title says the Rpm doesn't go over 3000. This problem came up all of a sudden. I thought maybe the gas filter was a t fault so I changed it and no change. I went to my usual mechanic and he found the catilizer was all clogged up. After taking the cat off the engine started pissing oil all over the place. In other words the engine was shot. So he find a new engine with only 4000 km on it for $500. I said great put it in. After the install same problem. RPM won't go over 3000. He changed the ECM still no go. What could be the problem?
View 1 Replies
so i've been slowly fixing up an old conversion van i recently got (1993 ford E150 5.0L).... and i'm having problems with this thing idling at about 3000 rpms... i've changed the upper intake gasket cause it was leaking, valve cover gaskets,TB gasket, IAC gasket, park plugs, wires, distributor cap and coil... i've checked vacuum lines, vaccum leaks, still no change...
When i unplug the IAC it idles down to where it's supposed to be..... so i thought it was faulty, and bought a new one....still no change... idles around 3grand unplug it and it idles down..... the IAC is getting 11.44 volts to it which is in the good from what the haynes book says.... before i changed all the gaskets it was idling around 2grand or so, and it got worse after i changed everything.
View 19 Replies
The service light for the oil change came on this weekend. The car only has 2996 miles on it. The manual calls for the oil change at 5000 miles. My Touareg doesn't do this. Is this tied in to how you drive or is something wrong?
View 6 Replies
I have a 2001 accent with a 1.6 .... It won't rev over 3000rpm's. It does not have any codes being set. If I unplug the IAC it will rev up just like normal. I tried replacing the IAC, TPS, and swapped ECM and nothing has changed it. I tested continuity of the IAC circuit to ECM and it tests good. Tested ground circuit and it tests good. Have correct voltage at sensor. Not sure what else to look at.
View 21 Replies
When the car is parked and out of gear, it won't rev more than maybe 3000 rpm. Is this a safety feature? I was trying to hear the exhaust.
View 8 Replies
I can get my car to rev past 4,000 rpm in gears 1-4 but in 5th gear it wont pass 3,000. It used to be fine, but one day it was just like this and hasn't changed since. This is annoying because where I live some of the speed limits are at 75mph. When I'm in 5th gear at 3,000 rpm I'm only going 65. What can I do to fix this? Reset ECU? Clean MAF sensor? Is it related to an approaching timing belt failure (I'm at 94k miles and it needs to be replaced before 105k)...
View 19 Replies
I have a 2000 accord with 2.3 v tec, parked my car last night and was working fine, started it up this morning and the car wont work over 3000 rpms, it idles and works great but when you drive it or push the gas as soon as it goes over 3000 rpms it should like the rev limiter is on, i already cleaned the iac and it woks fine a while ago,can it be a sensor, I thought it was a fuel filter like it was starving for gas but in the 2000 accords its in the gas tank, don't under stand why she runs good up to 3000 rpm then over that she misses . I took out the spark plugs and they were black and sooty, put a spare set I had in her but no change in the way the engine works.
View 4 Replies
Here is what happened: I was accelerating one colder morning while driving to work when the power just dropped. Then engine continued to run, but I had no power or acceleration over 3000 rpm. Since that time, that is how the car drives. It starts, runs, etc... but has no power (like rev limiter or something) over 3000 rpm. The turbo spools up fine. I do know my 02 sensors are old. The engine has 184k on it... not bad. Is this a head gasket situation?
View 3 Replies
Once day my car began idling poorly and would not accelerate beyond 3000 rpm. The check engine light began blinking and I stopped driving it.
My check engine light remained on and the obd read Cylinder 2 misfire (p0302) and random cylinder misfire (p0300). I tested the ignition coils and found that the cylinder 2 ignition coil was dead so I replaced it. The codes no longer showed but the car still would not accelerate and was firing irregularly. I checked for vacuum leaks but found all hoses connected and whole.
I tried removing pcv hose and blocked the valve with my thumb and the car instantly corrected the rough idle. I then went around the block and the car drove and fired properly. I'm unsure if I am losing vacuum pressure in the intake manifold or if the issue is elsewhere?
View 2 Replies
So I just drove my 85 to san francisco and back to Los Angles this weekend to visit my girlfriend and i had high oil pressure all the way until i blew my valve cover gasket.
So i fixed it finally today and it ran fine for a couple blocks and then my rpms shot up to about 3000 rpm and wont come down at idle speed and the car wants to keep going while in drive.
Its a 2.4l 22re EFI
View 2 Replies
Symptoms- won't rev over 3000-3500 rpm's, upon acceleration (especially uphill) seems to struggle and won't accelerate much at all, seems as if trans changes fine. BTW, throwing no codes at present.
What I have already tried...new air filter, new fuel filter, had cat. check (was told stopped up but when removed found it was not and truck did the same even with cat. off), o2 sensor (upstream) replaced, battery disconnected to reset computer.
After reset of computer, runs a little better but still not good. Seems to start if you accelerate to quickly or when truck reaches around 40-45 mph.
View 11 Replies
