Dodge - Ram :: AC Fan Just Quits Blowing?
Sep 13, 2014
Last summer I bought a heavier horse trailer and needed a bigger, badder truck to pull it with. I finally found a 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 (4 wheels, not 6) 4x4 diesel truck. I am very happy with it except: When I have pulled for about 1-1/2 to 2 hrs, the a/c fan just quits blowing. I turn it off and crack the windows for 10-15 min and then it will come back on full force. For awhile. Then it quits again, etc, etc. I haven't pulled that long in cooler weather yet, but would guess the same thing would happen. It doesn't seem to be the a/c, just the fan. Of course getting to the garage in middle of this non-activity isn't possible and I just get blank looks when I describe the problem.
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Have 66,000 on the clock. AC has blown cold since i have had the car, and yesterday quits blowing cold, summer is right around the corner.
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I have a 2010 Grand Caravan, and the engine just stops while moving down the road. Once you shift to neutral, the engine starts again easily. The only common thing we've found is that the skid control light goes on. It doesn't seem to happen when going more than 30 mph, and does seem to happen more when the temps outside are changing, but both when we get a warm spell or a cold snap. The recall work on the key assembly has been done, and the key always seem to be in the on position, so it's not that known issue. The local garage couldn't find anything or even replicate the problem. The dealership replaced the spark plugs and did a fuel system cleaning. Those were probably due, but they didn't seem to work much.
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My 1993 Dodge Dakota quits running at any time, from right after start-up to going down the road. It wont start running again until the check engine light comes on when the ignition is turned on. I can sit there from a few seconds to five minutes before the check engine light comes on. I have cycled the key three times to check for a code, but there are none. I have checked much of the wiring to the relays and some to the PCM, but have found nothing wrong. This truck did the same thing with the two previous owners, and had the PCM replaced, to no avail.
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My 06 Mitsubishi Galant's A/C quits blowing air after approximately 50 miles of driving. The fan is running normally but the ducts don't have much air coming from them. I let the car set for a period of time and it starts working again. It acts like the coils are freezing up. I had a mechanic check it, the freon is ok, there is no cabin filter and they replaced a relay hoping to fix it. So far, no luck.
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I have A '06 f 150 4x4 with codes p303 and 307. I have changed plugs, coils, and injectors on all cylinders. Still nothing. It runs rough for a while and clears out for a mile or so and back to running bad. When it stumbles the a/c quits blowing cold and the truck shakes like crazy. The check engine light is on and blinks when it stumbles. Tired of just having parts changed. What else could it be?
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02 F250 with 7.3. When I activate the 4WD, my light comes on, the A/C quits blowing out of the forward vents and goes into defrost and no 4WD. If I sit and wait a bit, the air again blows out the front vents and the 4WD engages. I figure I have a vacuum leak somewhere in the 4WD system. Is there a common place for this to happen or do I need to trace the whole system down? Also my manual hubs has never been turned and of course they won't. I know better than use a wrench so is there a easy way to free them up or just go ahead and disassemble and clean?
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I have a 1998 dodge ram 1500 5.9 the ac blows hot I've replaced the ac compressor the evaporator and the accumulator I even did a ac vacuum on the lines their are no leaks.
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I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 that I bought used a couple of years ago. About every 20k miles (120k miles on it now) I get a check engine light and upon diagnosis it's the 4th cylinder spark plug fouled out, every time. I change the spark plug, but the old ones are always identical in damage. The porcelain has cracked on the spark plug.
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My Stratus started blowing the starter fuses occasionally when I tried to crank the engine. It stopped for a while (about three months) but recently started doing it again and much more frequently now.
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99 Dodge Ram 1500 Automatic 5.2L. Whenever I come up to even a slight hill the A/C will stop blowing and the vehicle speed will drop 3-5 mph and stay until after the top of the hill and will be sluggish to regain speed and A/C will blow again once original speed is achieved. No engine light or warning lights come on. What could be causing this problem?
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My dodge charger 3.5L 2007 model have heater problem, The heat blows out cold air.
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I have a '96 Dodge Stratus that keeps blowing fuse #20, which is for the fuel pump and the ignition. How to isolate the problem? This happens as soon as the key is turned on. The car has 140,000 miles and runs excellent otherwise.
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Alright, dodge grand caravan 3.8. Year: 05' ... Just broke 100k miles on this thing, last time i changed the plugs i noticed plug 2 had oil all down in it. I completely forgot about the problem cause i got side tracked with bad sway bar bushings. Anyways, what is the cause of the oil leakage? It has gotten so bad that I am blowing smoke when its cold, even is warm weather. There is also caked on oil and dirt on a lot of the parts down the front left side of the motor. Blown head gasket? Bad valve cover gasket? I want the best way to approach this . The smoke is white, but not enough smoke to be a completely blown head gasket.
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Motor has a whining when driving then van quits, after a couple minutes can restart and drive.
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I have been trying to tackle my AC problems for quite some time now...I noticed my AC was not working properly a little while back, so I ran the diagnostics on climatronic. It came back saying AC high pressure switch. I replaced that -- still nothing. I continued to run more diagnostics. My fans run when the car heats up, so its not overheating, but when I turn on the AC, no fans come on automatically. I jumpered the fans directly off the battery and they both work on both speeds. When I hook it up to the thermo switch plug, it only works on low speed. I replaced the FCM, which had a lot of corrosion on it -- I Even had to run repair wire for 2 of the pin ports. I Jumpered the compressor too, and it seems to have kicked on as well. Even if the compressor were bad, wouldn't the fans still try to run when AC was on.
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when I am driving on the freeway and pass a car the cruise control quits and shuts off as I veer back into the right lane. That seems to be the only time the cruise control shuts off. I just bought the Taurus and it is a 2010. Why that happens?
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Driving this 1996 Buick Century limited,4 cylinder car normally, the car will just stop running without any warning, nor rhyme nor reason. Most of the time this has occured, a tow truck has been called, but prior to towing, the car started normally and ran without problems for quite a while. The car has been in the chevrolet garage multiple times, at least over nine, for this problem, but will never show up for the mechanic. There is no specific driving pattern to cause this to occur: it dies in normal driving on the street, starting from a stop, in parking lots,
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I just replaced computer brain and finally it works and 6 miles later same symptoms again. Its unreliable, will start wont drive, drive and quit and wont start. I replaced : cps emc ecm coil packs sparkplug wires sparkplugs pvc valve inline fuel filter
I have tried anything someone says.....like loose or bad gas cap can let water in your fuel. if thats true or not I put heat in to dry up any water problem put premium fuel in my truck. Changed the oil ever 3 thousand miles. Its my work truck never took it out in the woods and abused it never raced any cars with it. Just babied it and tried to get as much mileage out of her as possible.
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I have a 2007 Camry LE with 86K miles. The car was burning oil like crazy and failed the oil consumption test so Toyota put a new motor in the car. I picked it up from the dealer 2 weeks ago and after driving it 40 miles, the transmission went out. The dealership had it towed that day and now after 2 weeks of them not returning my calls or providing any update, they tell me that it was coincidence that my transmission failed 1 hour after I picked it up from them. What are the chances that it had nothing to do with the work they've done?
When I brought it in it was driving fine - the only problem was the oil consumption, no slipping or knocking. Now you can drive it for 20 minutes just fine, but as soon as it warms up, the transmission quits.
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I have 2010 Prius IV with the JBL 6 disc changer radio. The last couple of weeks the volume starts to cut out when it gets hot out and it is currently getting worse in cool weather as well. It cuts out with the forward movement of the vehicle (think of a playing card in the spoke of a bicycle wheel). Then eventually it cuts out all together until the car sits overnight and cools off. When the sound quits the volume nob no longer functions. Its stuck on what ever volume it was last at. The steering wheel buttons also don't work for the volume. The rest of the radio seems to function fine, can change channels, modes, etc. I can reach under the passenger seat when this is happening and the amp is not hot.
I know the JBL amp does most of the work, but how do I determine if it is the radio that is broke, or the amp? I've pulled out the radio and made sure everything was plugged in, same with the amp. Also, because of this, I plan on replacing the radio with an aftermarket unit. If I determine the amp is good I will just get the PAC TATO, but if the amp is bad and I put in an aftermarket amp I need to know how the JBL speakers are wired. I know they are 2 ohm speakers, but how are the woofers wired into the squawkers, etc?
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