Dodge - Ram :: 2006 - Brake Fluid Sensor Stuck?
Feb 28, 2016
This last week my brake fluid light comes on my 2006 Ram 1500 but my fluid level in the reservoir is at max..fluid is a yellowish color when I look at it out of reservoir (looks darker in the reservoir).
If I unplug the sensor to the reservoir, the light still stays on which puzzled me, but I'm not honestly sure what I'm hoping to see happen. I am no positive if I'm due for a brake job, but the pads still looked to be good to me (not sure if that could trip the sensor). Where to start?
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Just bought a 2007 supercab with the 5.4 in nice shape, but have an intermittent brake light on the dash. (No ABS, just the brake light.) Our mech. diagnosed a bad Brake Fluid Level switch. I can get a new sensor. I'd like to try and replace this myself and save a lot of money if it's not too difficult.
I'm looking for some clear step-by-step directions on doing this, and have a couple of questions:
Do I need to disconnect the battery first?
Do I need to empty the brake fluid reservoir? (Looks like the sensor is in the bottom of the reservoir, if I take it out without draining res, will I have a mess?)
When looking up the sensor online, I also saw the plug/connector for sale, should I replace that as well?
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About a week after my wreck I got the Parking brake light and the message brake fluid level low. The fluid level is fine and I read some other threads where people said the vacuum system was connected somehow. I knew the ESOF didn't work so I replaced the broken line and nothing changed, except the ESOF works now.
Anyway I can't for the life of me find a replacement sensor, part number or anything.
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Short Version. 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, I two weeks ago I replaced the front brakes (rotors, calipers, and pads both sides) I drove the van 100 miles Saturday night with no problems. Sunday afternoon, whilst driving home from a restaurant with 5 people in the van (driving super gingerly because they were my inlaws) the right front brake stuck on and smoked on the drive home. The calipers are new, and I have not had any other problems since I replaced the brakes that were trashed when I got it.
Long version, So heres the deal, I am the proud owner of a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan, its got about 140,000 miles on it, its a little rusty, but I got it for free. A family member was getting rid of it, as it was 11 years old, and they wanted something newer, and it needed brakes and a few other things. They were going to donate it, but it sat all winter waiting for the donation company to pick it up. Being a consummate grease monkey elite shade tree mechanic tinkerer type, and being in the new family, new house cash flow situation, I swooped in and towed it home in hopes that I could make a decent enough ride that I could fit two adults, a car seat and a dog into.
Now when I got the van I knew it had some problems. That's the reason it was free. But it is/was all fixable stuff. Typical of age and mileage It had a whiny power steering pump, it needed an oil change, the power steering lines leaked, the transmission cooler lines needed to be replaced. It needed a serpentine belt. It has a motor mount that needs replacing. The front suspension clunked because of worn out swaybar bushings and end link Its a bunch of work and few weekends and a few hundred in parts, but when the van was free, and you do the work yourself it costs a lot less.
The front brakes were completely trashed when I got the van, that is one of the reasons that the previous owner had parked it. And it was obvious that the right front caliper had seized, I could not push the piston back in. And that was the one that seized on, and had the most damages so I replaced it, along with the left front, as it was also the original one, and well they were both the same age, and have the stuff to bleed the brakes out. So what causes disk brake calipers to randomly stick on when they are used gently? Because when I drive it angry, such as now, they seem fine.
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I drive a 2006 Dodge Sprinter, 3500 with dual wheels. When changing from park to drive, the gears would not automatically shift from first to second gear. The engine kept revving, so I stopped the vehicle, and started it again. No problem. I spoke with a retired mechanic (friend of mine's father) and he said we should probably change the transmission fluid. When I called the dealer, he said they could do it but that he also saw problems arise when the fluid was changed on vehicles with high mileage (it has 225,000 miles on it).
Should I go ahead and change the fluid, or not?
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On our '06 Avalon Limited, my wife had parked the car was parked in the driveway and about 30 min later I walked by and heard that the wiper fluid pump motor was running non-stop. The only way I could get it to shut off was to loosen the fender liner and reach in and un-plug it. I'm thinking relay, but would it be that, the switch, the motor itself, where should I start and how can I tell or diagnose short of replacing them?
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80km on my accent, the brake pedal was getting softer and brake fluid was a bit low as normal due to brake pads were worn up over time. Brake pads were never changed. I thought changing the pads would change the softness of the brake pedal. I changed the brake pads, left and right, the brake fluid in the reservoir went up as normal but I drove around but the softness of the brake pedal did not change. I still had a little less than half size on the old pads. I need to press the pedal a bit much to feel the brakes. I am wondering maybe the brake pedal was always like that when I bought the car.
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Doing a rear brake job on my 2008 elantra. Left went fine. However, the right rotor is stuck on the parking brake. It is loose, but held on to the springs of the parking brake.
How do you back off the parking brake? Also, how do you remove the parking brake cable?
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So I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
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I had to replace my brake sensor on side of pedal, and now my car won't recognize the brake is depressed to release safety on sifter to allow me to shift out of park.
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So my 2007 Accent/Hatchback started having this weird issue the other day.
My Parking Brake/Low Brake fluid Level Warning Light will coming on while driving and then all the gauges drop down. The light goes off and the gauges come right back up. All this happens within 2-4 seconds maybe. And usual happens maybe once every 6-7 times I drive it so not all the time.
I am driving, not braking so even more confused.
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I swapped my fluid and ever since I did that my clutch and brake pedal are pulsing/vibrating only when I start the car. It almost feels like ABS pulsing but on both pedals and the car is obviously stationary.
I followed the procedure from the manual and did all 4 corners and slave.
Brakes work fine/clutch is fine...
I must have done something to upset the BRAKE system?
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seem to be losing brake fluid from the area of the ABS system and it dripping down on the brake lines underneath. Noticed this when draining excess oil from the engine (dealers!!!!). I'm thinking this has been leaking a long time. I have the worst luck finding a reputable mechanic anymore and if I can't trust a dealer...
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I have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500. The transmission fluid is always low, but I cannot find a leak. This causes the transmission to slip. When I add transmission fluid it is okay for a while. (I do not drive the truck daily...) What the problem may be?
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I drive a 99 Durango at work and the front/rear washer switches are reversed! IE push button for front and rear sprays, push button for rear and front sprays. Is there somewhere in the wiring harness that the wiring could have gotten easily switched?
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Okay so I have a 2004 Dodge Ram Hemi, the truck was running fine all this weekend and was fine this morning. Went out at lunch and used the automatic starter button while walking to it and wouldn't start. It turn over and wants to start you can hear it trying to catch but it won't catch unless you put some starter fluid in. Just changed all 16 spark plugs, all 8 coil packs, wires and 2 valve springs about 2 weeks ago have been running fine since and now this. What it could be?
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Have a 2002 Dodge Dakota automatic. This winter when temps. dropped into lows 10s and zero degree weather, the Dodge truck would start,but would not come out of park gear. Have replaced interlock solenoid and brake light switch. Still have same problem when Temperature drops into low 10s &below. Otherwise,everything ok. (not using ER brake).
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I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
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I would assume that my sensor needs replacement. What it takes to access the sensor? Where is it exactly located before I start ripping apart everything.
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I guess the prius (any prius) has no Trans fluid temp sensor. I tried all 3 general Trans fluid temp codes for Toyota and none work.
2012 Prius c
2016 Prius v
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Major screw up. Added steering fluid to brakes. Drove the car for about 300 miles. Car actually over-heated. Discovered the mistake after. Bleed brakes and added correct fluid. Not heating up now, but only bled the brakes one time. This is on my grandsons 91 Dynasty. Now worried the brakes are going to just go out.
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