Dodge - Ram :: 2005 - Intermittent Howls And Squeals From Front Passenger Side
Oct 18, 2015
I recently bought a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 automatic 4.7L. About 3 days after purchase I've begun to notice a couple of strange noises. Now I put this truck through its paces during the evaluation period and noticed no faults at all. Shifts smooth, 4wd works fine, brakes well, no strange noises, quiet and drift-free on the highway to speeds beyond what the state police would more than frown at. No rust, detailed maintenance records, seemed a seriously great truck. But then...
I began to occasionally hear a sharp squeal from what seems to be from the front passenger wheel area when braking to certain speeds. The sound is similar to cheap brake pads squealing or some foreign matter stuck between the rotor. I couldn't reproduce it on demand so I thought maybe something caught on the rotor or some tire shine got slopped in there or something. The sound began to happen more frequently the next day, although still never through the whole braking process, just maybe around 5-10 mph. I called up the dealership and explained what I heard and basically since it's as-is I'm on my own here. So I just planned to take it easy on it then the rest of the day and inspect the brakes and rotors as soon as I could thinking something brake-related. But then...
I heard the same squeal while I was accelerating from a dead stop while going up a steep incline (again 5-10mph or so). Okay, maybe could be brakes still - maybe sticky caliper? Now, here a day later I hear a loud howl from this same area while accelerating up another of our steep inclines here in the Blue Ridge mountains from previously moving at a very slow speed. Same speed range as produced the whine, after accelerating past around 10mph the sound was gone again. After driving it around a lot more over the course of the day this howl repeated one other time in approximately the same way, but on a different road.
I cannot reproduce either sound purposefully, in all but one case the vehicle was not turning when the noise occurred.
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I have a new 2012 mustang GT with just under 5000 miles (no brembo package). For the first 3-5 stops, the passenger front brake squeals loudly right before coming to a stop, then goes away for a while. Intermittently, while the car is warm, it will squeal very loudly at low speeds when coming to a stop (10mph). The car does not pull and the stopping power doesn't seem to be affected. I've taken it to the dealership, they say they can't reproduce the sound. They resurfaced the rotor and claim that nothing is wrong with the brakes, but the resurfacing did nothing to fix the problem.
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My 2005 Neon has had a leaking problem for quite some time. It rains...a lot! After a decent rainfall, when I start the car and the first couple times I accelerate, there is an audible hissing sound, and then the water drips in from underneath the dash on the passenger side. The leak is getting progressively worse, and I'm concerned the interior carpets will get moldy. I recently brought the car in for it's 60K checkup, and all is good. The only thing they could find leaking are the seals on the passenger door. Unfortunately, these seals aren't made anymore, and the cost to purchase them is quite expensive, and may or may not fix the leaking issue.
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The passenger front speaker on my 11 FX4 has been intermittent for a while. I replaced the door harness as described in TSB 12-11-4 but found the harness may not have been the cause. I have aftermarket speakers in my truck and installed them using Metra speaker harnesses. When pulling the old harness out, I found the connector for the speaker to be full of water. This is likely the issue with my truck but I wanted to share this observation with others who use these little harnesses. These connectors are not assembled using rubber grommets between the leads and the connector housings, which are necessary to make the connection weather/water tight.
Metra 72-5600 Connector - No Seals
Ford's Door Wiring Harness - Wire Side - Wire Seals
Ford's Door Wiring Harness - Connection Side - Blue Seal
Now, I'm just passing this along in the event others are experiencing this issue and also have aftermarket speakers. Before hitting the dealer up for the TSB repair, check to see if you have the same issue as I found. But if you're running factory speakers and have intermittent speaker operation, hit up your dealer for the TSB repair.
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Front driver side brake squeals on a stop and release. This is the only side that produces this noise. Brake clearance is still very good and this noise has been off and on since i bought the car in December. Car has about 25k miles on it and will be replacing brakes at 30k.
Brake issue - YouTube .....
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There is an intermittent “Thunk Ah” noise coming from what appears to be the front passenger side of my ’97 CRV. Occurs while driving slow or fast, on turns or while driving straight. No vibrations felt, no shaking or movement of steering wheel, CRV drives straight even when hands are off steering wheel. Noise can happen on smooth or bumpy road but bumps will not always create the noise. When CRV was on the lift the mechanic found problems with right strut and left tie rod end – both front struts were replaced along with the left tie rod end and then an alignment was done.
After this CRV continues to make the noise. I always back into my driveway, which is on a slight incline, and park level in my carport with the wheels turned to the left. Twice, within the last week, I parked with the wheels turned to the right. I found that when I parked this way with the wheels turned to the right, I couldn’t get the CRV to produce the “Thunk Ah” noise until later in the day after driving and then parking at work. Mechanics are stumped and don’t know what else to explore.
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2008 F150 4x4 27000 mi There is an intermittent metallic /rattle sound (like marbles or a chain in a can) seems to be coming from front passenger side; sometimes on first acceleration , sometimes after turning a corner, sometimes after hitting a bump. Doesn't last more than a few seconds Had my mechanic friend look at it on hoist and no apparent loose parts in exhaust system or breaks; 1st noticed it last August ( 7000 miles ago) but it subsides and then reappears with no distinct pattern. best guess is a bad wheel bearing but it's never gotten any worse; other guess is transfer case/ chain problem but 4x4 use isn't much and it goes in and out of 4x4 mode with no problems.
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4 days ago I had a complete front brake job done on a 02 Dodge Dakota pickup. 80 miles on the new brakes I stuck in a traffic jam for over an hour. Once I stopped at the store I smelled burning brake odor on the passenger side right front wheel. Is there anything that should burn off of a new part of shall be concerned about this? New brakeshoes, rotors, calipers + brakefluid.
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My 05 Caravan is in excellent shape with only 40k miles and noticed rust and paint bubbles only on the lower front side of the rear wheel well (drivers side). I live in Pa and wash the car after snow storms. Of course the car is out of rust warranty and the dealer said they can repair it but they do not know what causes it. I have seen this exact problem on other caravans and I have been told it is were the two pieces of metal are joined together, the wheel well seam, which causes the problem. We sealed the seam last fall with silicon when it was just paint bubbles and now it has gotten worse. My thinking is either we need to go back and look at the seam again as we only sealed the section that looked open or there is a leak from somewhere else in the van - the gas cap area or the area on the frame when the door is open is suspect to me. Basically I am asking if there is anywhere else I should look for this leak besides the wheel well seam?
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So we have an oil leak in our 2005. It is coming from the front of the engine on the passenger side. The oil was changed on May 15th. And it has only leaked since then. Any thoughts on what it may be? What part of the engine deals with oil in that part of the engine compartment? We will take it back to the place that last changed it and have them check it out as well.
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So i have a 2005 mkiv TR GLI. I had thought that the car leaks water at the front passenger side however it was a little drip, until last night. It rained heavily last night and I got in my car to find a good amount of water under my front passenger side mat, nowhere else. I left no windows open, and it looks to be running down between the side of the dash, and the inside of the door on the passenger side.
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I am sure this is pure coincidence but we had to have a new battery put in my wife's '09 Avalon. Later in the day we noticed that the front window switch for the passenger window on the drivers side, does not work. The one on the passenger door works fine so it's not the motor. How difficult are these to replace? BTW, the window lock switch is NOT on.
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I have a 2005 Chevy Equinox that has developed an odd issue. For about a month, after a good rain, I have a puddle of water in the floor carpet of the front passenger side - while parked. It develops from the center of the car to about the middle of the floor below the seat. So since that is the case I don't think the side window is leaking but I have looked for signs of water coming in. Nothing. The windshield was replaced about 5 years ago but again, no signs that water is coming in from there either. It can't be from the bottom of the car, right? I mean it happens while it is parked, so that doesn't make sense.
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How to check the stabilizer links. 05 Taurus, 4 sedan, 83K miles. Have a distinct noise coming from the front passenger side when going over a bump. Just checked the following and here's what I've found: Checked the ball joint - no play whatsoever, it looks good under the "pry bar" test under the control arm. Tie rod end is tight- no play at all. Strut mounts seem fine. The stabilizer link looks fine - no rust, tears, etc. But I can easily, by hand, twist it freely. However, prying up on the stabilizer bar doesn't seem to show any play on the link itself. Should these be tight (at the joint) to the point where you need some "muscle" to turn them ?? I'm not sure what's left to check.
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Have a 05 Explorer and every time it rains, water gets in and soaks the front passenger side floor. It only happens after it rains and happens even if it is not driven. I am pretty sure there is a drain line plugged up someplace from the cowl, just not sure where it is. The toe kick seems to stay dry but the floor gets soaked.
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My 05 Supercrew 4X4 with 172k miles started making a horrible noise these last couple days. It sounds like its coming from the front passenger side area. The best I can describe is that it sounds like an electric tool motor with bad bearings. I'll be driving along at 45mph or above and every now and then I'll hear a really bad bearing squeal. It's bad enough that I can feel the extra friction caused by the squeal start to slow my truck down. It's vehicle speed related. I know what a bad wheel bearing sounds like and this is nothing like that. It's gotten bad enough I'm nervous to drive anywhere.
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Ok so I got a good deal on a used F350. When I got it home I found the heater was stuck on defrost. I posted on here a few weeks ago with questions on what could be wrong. From that post I learned that my front passenger side hub is stuck locked in. I pulled the vacuum lines at every connection from the pump on and had good vacuum all of the way to the passenger side hub. I turned the axle shafts and found the drivers side is free the passenger side is locked.
I flipped the dash switch and heard the drivers side hub lock. Then I turned the axles again and found they were in fact both locked in. I flipped the switch back to 2H and the drivers side freed and the passenger side was still stuck locked in. So I pulled the passenger side hub off of the truck and found it was seized up. I put it back together and locked both hubs in manually until payday when I can pick up a new hub.
Yesterday we had a lot of ice! Where I park the pickup the front wheels drop into a low spot. I could not get backed out of my driveway with the front wheels in the hole and the rear wheels on ice, so I flipped the switch to 4x4 and tried again. It still could not pull out, the front wheels didn't seem to engage. Now I am thinking I have more troubles than just the one hub stuck locked in.
So, my questions now are, 1 if the passenger side hub is bad but both are locked in it should still go into 4x4 correct? 2, the 4x4 light on the dash lights up when I flip the switch. If I had a bad switch or fuse would I still get the same result (light on and drivers side hub clicking in)? Does this pickup have to move a few feet before it engages the 4x4 or should it click right in? And finally what is a short explination of how the 4x4 system works. The dash switch engages the solenoid on the firewall to switch vacuum down to the hubs but what else does it do? I assume it has some kind of switch or motor in the transfer case that engages the 4 wheel drive?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan. The blinkers have stopped working...sometimes. Sometimes I put the right blinker on and the left starts blinking, sometimes both left and right work normally, but most of the time neither work. The hazards work all of the time. What I should do, or where to begin.
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Sounds like an old police car siren but only about 10 % of my driving time and usually late evening hours...
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My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
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2005 Dodge Neon SXT 2.0 engine
At first I would have an intermittent jumpy speedo then today it got worse and all of a sudden the check engine light popped on. Got it scanned and had three transmission related codes come on including the gear one incorrect ratio code (can not remember the other three). My first suspect was the VSS output. Replaced the sensor and took it for a test drive; no speedo no shifting. Took it back and and got a new one same issue with the replacement.
The tranny fluid was recently changed just after 203,xxx miles. Believe I am the third owner of this car. Seems to have been well cared for in the past. Recently also did some other work that was not transmission related when I first purchased the vehicle.
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