Dodge - Ram :: 2005 - Hesitating Under Acceleration At Lower RPMs / Shaking Feeling In Steering Wheel
Feb 5, 2016
About 2 weeks ago, my 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 4.7L, was running fine. The very next morning, it's 4.7l engine has a very obvious misfire situation where it's hesitating badly, especially under acceleration at lower rpms, with the shaking feeling in the steering wheel etc etc. I have Advanced Auto parts and 2 separate auto shops plug in their little boxes to find the problem codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on as soon as this issue began. The codes they got were consistent from place to place: 1. Misfire on cylinders 4 & 6, and 2. Random multiple misfire.
So I go and buy 2 brand new coils for cylinder 4 and 6, and 8 new champion plugs. I was in Florida for a week, so the truck was NOT driven at all after the day this problem began. So I replace all 8 plugs and install the 2 new coils, but it makes NO DIFFERENCE. It's still hesitating just like before. Today I take it to Goodyear to have them do an allegedly thorough evaluation. They use their little code box and they get the same codes as mentioned above about random multiple misfire and misfire on cup 4 and 6.
Then the mechanic takes the truck for a ride and experiences the same hesitation and shaking under acceleration. So he replaces both of the new coils I had installed with their coils and replaced the 2 new plugs, just to make sure there was no issue with these new parts. He takes it out and apparently plugs in a different computer that monitors all engine functions, including air/fuel mixture, spark etc. According to that computer, the truck is running properly(according to them), and he checks compression and says it's good. So what's wrong, and he said that my car's computer was reset so the check engine is no longer on(I am not clear the how's and whys of that part). But the important thing is that it's still running badly and they can't tell me why it's running badly!
The mechanic said maybe a lifter collapsed or there is sludge that's causing an issue, but no solid explanation. Supposedly the 4.7L Dodge engine has a sludge issue experienced by some owners, and the mechanic recommended replacing the oil every 1500 miles instead of 3000. By the way, I asked how much it would cost for Goodyear to check the lifters and check under the valve cover, but he said they don't do that.
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I had a front brake job done on a 2002 Dodge Dakota pickup at 85000 miles. When I stepped on the brake, I felt pulsation in the pedal and a sort of wobbly feeling in the steering wheel. Also the brakes were making noises while driving. Classical sign of a warped rotor?! Long story short brand new rotors, brake pads and calipers, later the pulsation is mostly gone but the braking is still not smooth at one point while the tires are turning. Now i do have to older tires on the front but i just bought two brand new tires for the rear. Would it be wise to put the new tires on front to see if there might be some unevenness caused by the old tires before i take it back to the shop?
Also the feeling of the brakes catching on one point seems non existent or so minimal I can not be sure if the road surface interfering while driving slow of applying the brakes gently. But slowing down from higher speeds (above 40 mph) and using more then gentle braking ( not standing on the pedal with both feet) it is definitely there. Before the brake job braking caused the steering turning right. (sign of more braking action on the right - right?). Now with new stuff still pulls to the right but not as strongly. Should not this disappear with the brake job? Or get the new tires on front and see what gives?
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My 05 Caravan is in excellent shape with only 40k miles and noticed rust and paint bubbles only on the lower front side of the rear wheel well (drivers side). I live in Pa and wash the car after snow storms. Of course the car is out of rust warranty and the dealer said they can repair it but they do not know what causes it. I have seen this exact problem on other caravans and I have been told it is were the two pieces of metal are joined together, the wheel well seam, which causes the problem. We sealed the seam last fall with silicon when it was just paint bubbles and now it has gotten worse. My thinking is either we need to go back and look at the seam again as we only sealed the section that looked open or there is a leak from somewhere else in the van - the gas cap area or the area on the frame when the door is open is suspect to me. Basically I am asking if there is anywhere else I should look for this leak besides the wheel well seam?
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It's a 2004 V8 Touareg with 100k miles.
Getting horrible misfires and they're jumping around to different cylinders + other intermittent codes. The symptoms are ROUGH idle, and hesitating/shaking under acceleration.
The MIL has never come on in this car. But, it illuminates when you turn the key forward. (Almost like previous owner coded the light out?)
Replaced all 8 spark plugs, just ordered 8 new ignition coils. Hoping the misfires are the coil packs but obviously theres some other stuff going on here.
Pulled codes 2 weeks ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
4) warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2 (P0431)
5) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 1 (P0491)
6) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 2 (P0492)
7) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes 1 week ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes tonight:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
Cleared codes. Swapped ignition coils from 2 & 3 with 7 & 8. Drove around the block, then re-ran them:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 5 (P0305)
4) misfire cylinder 6 (P0206)
5) misfire cylinder 7 (P0307)
6) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
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My steering wheel on my 2012 Avalon Limited began shaking above 65 mph immediately after the tires were rotated for the first time. The balance was checked, and two new tires were installed. That did not fix the problem. The car also seems to pull to the right. Wondering if the problem are the tires, or an alignment issue.
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I'm sensing a light steering wheel shaking when reaching 70mph. Also during the process of increasing the speed from 25-30mph and above I can hear a sort of beating noise which becomes more consistent when increasing the speed. Car goes straight (no left - right wandering). Now I'm assuming it may be something related with the bearings, but I guess the only way to find out is by sending it to a repair shop to understand if the noise come from one or two bearings and from front or the rear bearings?!
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I have a 2005 dodge Dakota when I'm driving the steering wheel will shake randomly.This isn't happening constantly when driving and it will stop after I make a turn. In addition it will happen randomly regardless of what speed I'm driving. What's going on?
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Car misses horrible at times at idle and lower RPM's, shakes the whole car. MPG around 32. Runs better when car is fully warmed up. PO171 and PO 300, 301 and 304 codes come up.
Here's what I've done so far to try to correct the problem:
Cleaned mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced mass air flow sensor. No change.
Replaced plugs and ignitors (coils). No change.
Replaced PCV valve. No change.
Replaced upstream O2 sensor. Same codes come up but MPG increased to 37.
Replaced throttle body. No change.
Car does not miss when accelerating hard. Sometimes runs perfect at idle and lower rpm's, but mpg is way low as it used to be in the 50's or higher. Car idles perfect in neutral. Always runs perfect the first 3-4 seconds when you first start it, then starts shaking. If I put my finger in the throttle body when it's running poorly, apparently disrupting the air flow a bit, the idle smooths to perfect.
I have an extra computer, although I don't know if you have to program the key for it to work. I don't suspect this is the problem anyway. I haven't changed the fuel injectors. I can't hear a vacuum leak.
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My 2005 Accord steering wheel shakes quite a bit when I start to accelerate. I had the tires rebalanced, and it's still happening. The dealership indicated that there was "play" in both axles, and they both needed to be replaced ..... There's 85,000 miles on the vehicle and it's in excellent condition, could this shaking be caused by something else ?
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Have a steering problem with my 2011 Elantra. While driving "straight" and maintaining a center location in the lane, the steering wheel will develop (for lack of a better word) a sticky feeling. When you try to move the wheel beyond the sticky spot it causes you to overcompensate. Hyundai and two different dealers look at me like I am nuts. They test drive it but don't test it properly to feel the problem, they will test it by changing lanes and making turns. The problem is not always present and only happens when driving straight and when you move your hand slightly left and right to stay center in the lane.
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I have 325 miles on my Touareg. When I drive, especially during the first 15 minutes, I can FEEL something unusual happening in the engine through the steering wheel. Example... when I am stopped at a light, I can feel something like a "hum" or something experiencing resistance in the engine. It's not always continous. I am not used to feeling anything like this through the steering wheel when I am stopped (based on my other cars). This feeling is more pronounced when I turn. It seems to vanish when driving a straight highway after 15 min. I can only relate it to "feeling" a hmmm.
I have never owned a 4WD vehicle so I don't know if this is normal. I wish I could describe it better.
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I have a 2005 Durango. Started stalling out only a few days after I bought it (June 2010). Replaced EGR valve. Throttle body service. Back to the dealer several more times--couldn't find problem. Stalling, revving, hard shifting, hesitating, lack of power progressively worsened. Transmission rebuilt in Jan 2012, bell housing leak and repair in June 2012, torque converter clutch, water pump, idler pully, fuel injector, coil, vacuum sensor, air intake sensor, knock sensor, PCV valve, plugs and wires, and probably a few others I can't recall all addressed at one point or another. Continues to stall (often at shift changes, and at any speed from start up to 40 MPH), revs in park and at a stops, hesitates, hard/ delayed shifting, and doesn't like wet conditions. Am at a loss for a solution at this point and vehicle is just danged dangerous to drive as it stalls at the most inopportune times!!
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while taking turns at slow speeds, but only sometimes. Can't reproduce by turning wheel when not in motion. My 3yers/36,000 miles warranty expires soon. How do I prove I have a potential problem?
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Basically when I'm coming into my driveway (I turn to the right into it) I hit with the right front first and get this shuddering sound accompanied by a sloppy feeling in the steering wheel.
Sounds like the old door stop Springs. I sometimes get it as well when hitting bumps with either side at a time but not when hitting speed bumps or bumps where both wheels hit at the same time.
Went to the dealership but they couldn't reproduce it on the newly built read that's as smooth as glass.....
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I've got a 'new to me' 4" Lift 6.0L PSD Diesel, 2005. At 60 mph, especially 75 mph, there's some 'play' or float feeling in the steering wheel. Is that a normal thing for a 4" lift? and nothing to worry about? (the dealer that sold it said they put new ball joints in it. No cheap shock problem, right?)
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We added a 2011 Cor LE auto tranny to our 2005 LE.....like it a lot but for one issue. I didn't notice it test driving it (I was far more worried about the pedal locations and the electronic steering) but now I feel it a lot more.
Around 2900-3100rpm there is a buzzing feeling through the pedals/steering wheel. You notice it a lot more going up hills. The dealer noticed it too and is contacting "TAS" to see what they think.
What I'm wondering is if this is just a normal engine harmonic deal and it is what it is? I test drove other models (Civic,Focus,Elantra) and I didn't notice them having it.
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My wife has a 2008 Dodge Charge SXT with the 3.5. The front passenger wheel is "shaking/bouncing" at highway speed, but only when turning that direction on a curve. It doesn't do this when turning left. We had the tires replaced, because that was the suggested fix because the tire was "chopped". They were at end of life anyway, past the ware bar. But it didn't work and it seems to be getting worse. One mechanic said he thought it was the wheel hub, another said tie rod. I replaced both front tie rod ends after the passenger one fell out about 18 months ago.
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Whenever I am driving my Subaru Impreza, the steering wheel shakes above 60mph and is a violent shake at 65mph making it unbearably frustrating to drive to school each day. Recently I had slipped on ice and hit a curb with the tires on the right side of the car. I took it to a shop to get the rims looked at, and ended up replacing the back right. The mechanic said nothing about the front one however. My question to you is; could it be that the front rim is also bent? Or that it could just be a buildup of ice. It is cold here, snows often and is never above 20F.
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I have a 2005 F150 XLT with a 5.4 (198,000miles) RWD. A few months back it developed a miss due to bad COP's, typical shuddering around 50-60 MPH.
I pulled off the COPs and while I was in there I pulled my old plugs as well. New Motorcraft SP515 plugs went in with a little nickle anti-seize being careful not to get any near the end of the plug and I put a set of Granatelli COPs on with a little di-electric grease on the inside of the boot. The miss went away and the truck drove like a champ.
I will also note that I replaced the front wheel hub/rotors, front calipers and new pads. I resurfaced the rear rotors, new pads and new E-brake shoes also.
The issue I am having is under light acceleration, or "normal" driving conditions the vehicle has a mild shake which eventually smooths out.
My first assumption was that I did not torque my front wheel hubs correctly or that I messed something up so I took the truck to my local front end/alignment shop for a full inspection and they said everything is great. They also said that they didn't really feel the vibrations that I mentioned. I am used to this truck driving very smooth up until the misfire situation so to me it is quit noticeable. After the front end shop I went to Discount tire cause they mentioned that my rear wheels are bouncing pretty good and that may be what I am noticing. Turns out the tires were out of balance which Discount took care of and rotated my tires while I was there.
The vibration is STILL THERE! No CELs to reference, just an obnoxious vibration. I tried to isolate the issue by accelerating in 1,2, and in D. The issue occurs regardless of the gear I start off in.
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So I lowered my car sometime last year and ever since then when i make a right turn above 20mph it caused my car to shake pretty violently. i figured it might have been my Left outer cv joint so I changed the axle, solved my problem temporarily but didn't really make it any better. Recently its gotten way worse and now shakes on any sort of acceleration, and at the slightest turn of the wheel towards the right side. If I left off the gas, put it in neutral, engage the clutch, or turn the wheel to the left it goes away. Could this be the right side inner CV joint or something else? Car shakes under acceleration or right turns, is it my axle?
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My car has shaken from the start but I thought it was because it was a small car that was a great price so this is how it ran. Today it started shaking so badly up through the steering wheel that I was afraid to drive it. Still am. I got the tire pressure checked, the wheel balancing checked - all ok. Took it into the dealership (car is still under warrantee) and they think it's likely the drive train/drive shaft.
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