I've got a 1997 Dodge Ram with 150k miles. I was driving down the Parkway today and the drive shaft fell out of the rear differential. Is this a major problem? Can this be easily bolted back on or is this the end of my truck? Or something in between? I have no clue where I stand.
View 19 RepliesI am doing some work on the truck and need to get the front drive shaft to drop down, I have the four bolts out but I can not get it to move. What am I not doing?
View 3 RepliesMy t case will engage in 4 high and 4 low. so i know the switch and motor works because it go all the way to 4 low and i can feel the lower gears. BUT the front drive shaft is not turning because i know that the front diff is engaging just fine cus one I just fixed it and because when i put it in 4x4 the front drive shaft is locked in but when i take it out the drive shaft moves freely when i turn it by hand. But when I test it in gravel or mud the front wheels still ain't turning. So its gota be the t case. But what are the part that may be broken in the t case and if I can fix it wile its still on the truck.
View 4 RepliesI recently bought a 1997 F150 4wd 5sp manual. While changing the fluids, I noticed that the front u joint on the rear drive shaft has a grease fitting. No matter how I rotate that shaft, I cannot access that fitting with my grease gun, even when fitted with a flexible rubber hose.
View 14 RepliesBought a used 1997 Lariat Supercab 5.4L last week. It was missing its front drive shaft so I want to install one.
I just ordered a used front drive shaft online but I now need the bolts that connect everything together. New drive shaft has all the flanges, etc.
What is the pitch/length of these bolts? The part number for the bolts is N800594-S100 (AB-308-D). I believe there would be 8 of them, 4 on each side.
I thought it might be easier and cheaper to just buy bolts from an aftermarket supplier instead of OEM from Ford.
I have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
View 2 RepliesIs my car relavtively safe to drive?
I just took my car (1984 Toy Corolla DX) to the mechanic and the right front strut fell from its mount. The mechanic lowered the vehicle and reinserted the strut. I drove it home, ever-so-cautiously. Is the car safe to drive for emergency trips (pay bills, buy groceries) until I can get it fixed next month?
I have 1996 Ford F-250 that I just put a axle in that came out of a 2003 Ford F-350 this week. I test drove it today and my locking hub fell out of the driver side. I looked for it but couldn't find it. I drove home and the ring fell off of the passenger side from driving it back but the hub hadn't fallen out yet. what can I do to keep the hubs from falling out
View 6 Replieswe have a 97 dodge neon soc that keeps leaking at the cam shaft seal. it has been replaced 3 times now? It keeps working it's way out and leaks oil.
View 1 RepliesI pulled into my driveway after a 30 minute drive and smelled burning brakes. The right front was the culprit so I took a garden hose and cooled it down. The next day I remove the caliper and one of the pistons fell apart. So I need a new caliper and trying to decide if I buy after market or go with Motorcraft? I think the rotor, caliper, and pads are original since I the rotor is stamped Ford and the caliper bracket has TRW and Ford markings.
View 12 RepliesI recently changed my sway bar bushings when I jacked the car I notice oil is leaking because the shaft is all wet. My question is it an easy Job or will it cost and is it something that's hurtful to the car if I don't fix asap...
View 1 RepliesWhat are symptons of a "bad" drive shaft? Just curious because during a recent trip to the dealership for an oil change a mechanic told me I had one(I had mentioned I heard a noise that seemed to speed up and slow down as I drove-kind of a whirring noise). He arrived at that diagnosis by pushing down on the hood with enough force to make the vehicle(2002 Chevy Trail Blazer w/4wd) bounce up and down - there was a clunking noise. I haven't taken it in to have it looked at more closely, mainly because I am afraid of the cost. What's involved in replacing a drive shaft? What's the cost? If it is really "bad" will it break suddenly and cause an accident?
View 2 RepliesTruck is 2002 2WD 4.7L Durango and around 164K
I am looking to replace the intermediate steering shaft as it making noise it seems they are common to this problem due to a weak U joint. The problem I have is I can track the correct part. Here is what I have research so far:
Have found this one 55351246AA but it says it will not fit.
Also found the Dorman 425-257 but it says is for 4WD but it reference to this OE part numbers: 55351208AA, 55351208AB, 55351246AA
Have try the Dodge parts website but that is even more confusing. I have already replace the ball joints, wheel bearings and inner and outer tie rods and this is the last part that needs to be replaced if I can track the correct one.
Had the common problem of ARB rubbing the drive shaft after I lowered an extra 15mm - It didn't rub before I went this extra 15mm. I got adjustable drop links on and they also didn't work. I basically told the garage to sort it out and they put standard drop links back on (not genuine) and also new wishbones because I needed them. Got my car back and the rubbing was even worse. So I raised it back up the 15mm, to where it was before the rubbing started, yet it's still rubbing like crazy. I'm wondering if the new wishbones may be causing this because of new bushings or something and it all being tighter. And also what am I supposed to do? I shouldn't have to buy a whiteline ARB because it wasn't rubbing at this ride height before the wishbones and drop links were changed.
To summarize:
>Lowered car extra 15mm, rubbing started
>Drop links and wishbones changed, rubbing is worse
>Raised back to the point where rubbing started and still rubbing just as badly.
I've managed to remove 95% of my driver's side drive shaft but can't for the life of me remove the spline from the transmission. I cut the boot so all there is is the cup with the spline plugged into the gear box. I've pried and pried with a screwdriver and drove a chisel with a hammer in between the cup (not sure the proper term for it) and it wouldn't budge. I'm going to try and track down a puller that will work on this car but that might take days or weeks. I have to work tomorrow night so my question: Will it do any harm to the transmission or be unsafe to drive with only one drive shaft?
View 19 RepliesSo I drive a 2003 VW Touareg....and the other day while driving, felt this strange vibration when accelerating over 10mph. The dealership said it was an $1800 repair and diagnosed it as the drive shaft.
View 2 RepliesWhile rotating the tires I've noticed heavy rusting on the flanges that the wheels are bolted to, in fact the rear ones were stuck to the flanges. It looks like the VW logo on the wheels is not hermetically sealing the area and water/salt get in and create a rust heaven.
View 16 RepliesFrom what I've read, the procedure for removing and replacing the drive shaft involves pulling the upper ball joints and tie rod end from the steering knuckle--is it possible to put a floor jack below the lower arm (the load runs to the spring through the lower arm) and undo the lower ball joint to get the clearance required to remove the shaft?
View 9 RepliesBrake pedal was going to the floor. Plenty of fluid in Master Cylinder.
Pulled both front wheels off to find no sign of any leaks anywhere. High and dry all around.
Metal lines look like new the length of the car. No rust, no sign of any leakage. Clean and clear all around (this is a southern car).
Didn't pull the rear tires off, but just by rubber-necking with a flashlight, all dry back there, too.
So I removed the bottom bolt on both front calipers and swung them up out of the way.
Then I started pumping the brakes to see if the pistons moved.
Two rounds of about 6-7 pumps of the pedal, and nothing. No movement.
Third round, shocked to see both pistons came nearly all the way out!!!! In fact, when I touched them, they wobbled. They were hanging by a thread.
So I tried using a C-Clamp and old brake pad combo to try to push the driver's side piston back in.
But the (fairly large) C-Clamp wouldn't open quite enough, and unequal pressure was applied to the face of the piston.
Next thing I knew, the whole thing exploded with the piston falling out, and all the fluid gushing out to the ground.
Should I just pull the passenger side piston off now, too? And let that fluid also gush out? (all this fluid is pretty much original from the factory, so it's old fluid anyway.
Do I just place the piston back into the bore, refill, and bleed? The piston just sits in there loose like that with only the rubber seal holding it in??? Or are these calipers history?
What about the pads and discs? Some of the fluid got on the bottom half of the disc and one of the pads. Just wash it off with brake cleaner and let dry prior to reinstall?
'97 Taurus GL Wagon 3.0L OHV205k miles
I had a small pin fall out from under the dash today in my 2000 F150 today, I was shifting the truck into park when it came out and hit me in the foot. It is turned down on one end and knurled on the other end. Now the shifter feels sloppy front to back and when at rest in park the shifter is almost against the dash, where I should start to look for this? Or do I just start taking it apart until I find a hole with no pin in it? So far it is still shifting and tight as far as what gear its in but goes way too close to the dash.
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