Dodge :: No Power Assist To The Brakes
Feb 15, 2012
The other day I start my car in the garage. Backing out I know the brakes aren’t working normally. Testing in the driveway confirms that there is no power assist to the brakes. The engine is idling properly and there is no CEL or dash brake light lit, but there is non-power braking only. So I put the car back planning to work on it later.
Some two days later I start the car for testing and the brakes are back to normal. I have the usual power assist. There are no other problems.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan, modified for use for someone in a wheelchair. On two occasions now I have been driving and have lost ALL power, including all dashboard lights, signals, power steering and power brakes. Luckily both times I was able to pull over without much problem (aside from problems steering and having to mash really hard on the brakes). Turned off the motor, restarted, and everything seemed fine. The first time this happened I took it to my mechanic who said he was unable to duplicate the problem. The second time this happened (yesterday) was after a severe rainstorm. I can't remember what the weather was like the first time it happened.
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I've had this problem a couple times now. I start the car in the garage, take the parking brake off and try to move forward. Car does not move, but inches forward like I still have had the parking brake on. I double check, it's off. And to state the obvious, I do not have my foot on the brake.
I think maybe it's hill assist, though my garage barely has an incline that probably wouldn't trigger hill assist. I try to put it in different gears and attempt to accelerate in reverse, same thing.
So, that leads me to believe, are my brakes stuck? I steadily accelerate and the car finally budges. I hear a loud "POP-TWANG!!" under the car like I just popped the parking brake. The car lurches forward and I drive out of the garage normally.
I don't hear or see any other performance issues after this under normal city driving. This was after the car was not used and was in the garage overnight or longer. I did drive a few hundred miles the day before but not under significant load or stress on the car.
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Just letting Gen III drivers know that using an OBDII splitter and two gauges can sometimes cause a loss of regen braking and traction assist accompanied by various yellow lights on the dash. It can be restored by switching the vehicle off, unplug the OBDII splitter and restarting the car. This has happened to me on three seperate occasions.
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Major screw up. Added steering fluid to brakes. Drove the car for about 300 miles. Car actually over-heated. Discovered the mistake after. Bleed brakes and added correct fluid. Not heating up now, but only bled the brakes one time. This is on my grandsons 91 Dynasty. Now worried the brakes are going to just go out.
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I've got a 2005 F350 that i recently did balljoints, tierods and shocks/stabilizer on. Just stating that because i don't believe anything could be binding up to cause this.
If i am to take a left turn, more than 45 degrees, the truck will seem to lose power assist on the return to center and be very stiff when i return it by force until i jerk the wheel past center and let it come back the other direction and it seems to regain power assist.
Also, the steering is just generally bump. I have not driven a better condition 2005 to tell the difference but i'm sure this isn't the way it's supposed to be
I am not having any issue with braking force, as of yet. The first winter i got the truck i blew a power steering line that goes from the gear to the cooler, in which direction i don't know. It's been a year and a half since then so not sure that caused any failure.
Before this symptom the pump would whine when on left turns only, no problem turning right if i feel like doing right turns the rest of my days. I guess what i'm getting at is, does this sound like a bad pump? Bad gear? Both?
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2010 Manual GTI (still barely under warranty)
I swapped to my winter wheels on Sunday, then the car sat garaged for two and half days. Went to start it this morning and just got a fast clicking, then the power steering light came on and went from yellow to red. Tried a couple of times and then it seems like the car lost power; clock reset, trip odometer reset, etc.
I'm going to check the fuses, but what the problem might be? I'd like to go to work today and in the weather we're having there's no way VW is sending a tow truck today.
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Was driving along and turning right. The small yellow light for power assist came on the dashboard of my 2009 Tiguan. Stopped the car for awhile and when I restarted it was gone. Then as I was turning a corner it came back on. Once again, stopped and restarted, it was gone. What may be the issue?
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I recently bought a wrecked '97 Ford Explorer Sport with 51,000 miles to use as a parts car for my '97 Ford Explorer with 300,000 miles. The two front power windows in my Explorer just go "click, click, click, click..." when I try to use them, and they won't go up or down without a manual assist. The power windows in the Sport worked fine. I first replaced the motor... no improvement. Th
en I replaced the linkage with the flywheel, thinking it might be worn. No good. Then, after watching a video on youtube showing how to replace the power windows, I noticed that a new assembly comes with new tracks, so I replaced the tracks also. No go. I took the old motor and linkage and hooked it up to a 9 volt battery. It works just fine. I greased the tracks but that didn't work. I can't see anything that could be jamming the works. Fixing my windows is one of the main reasons I bought the Sport.
4.0 liter V-6 with only 51,000 miles?
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I owned a 1980 Chevy Citation 4 cyl AT. Much is known about the rear brakes locking up with those with MT. There was a recall. On my automatic, however, the power brake assist would often fail resulting in a couple crashes for me. There was an investigation into this in 1983 but I can't find what the outcome was - what the actual culprit was.
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I just took my 2009 Subaru Forester (80,000 miles) in to a mechanic because it was having an intermittent power steering assist failure during low speed maneuvering (i.e., parking lot). This is always accompanied by a loud rhythmic whining form under the hood (kind of like a whaawhaawhaawhaa). By intermittent, I mean maybe 50% chance of it happening when I am maneuvering in a parking lot. By failure, I mean I can still turn the wheel but it's much harder. The mechanic diagnosed it as the following:
dry rot in drive belts, recommended replacement
leaky rack and pinion, recommended replacement
2 leaky front struts
I checked my power steering fluid before I brought it in and the level/color looks great. The mechanic said in addition to the leak that there's a little bit of a catch in the steering at a certain steering position when going faster, but I haven't noticed it myself. I have trusted this shop in the past and had good experiences, but there has been a lot of turnover lately, so I'm unsure of what to do. I went ahead and had them change the belts, but decided to wait on the rack/struts until I did more research/got a second opinion.
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I have a 2010 Dodge Journey which my husband and I purchased a year ago used. Over the course of the year we have been dealing with brake problems. No less than a week after we purchased it, we had it at the dealer for pulsation from the brakes and they turned the front rotors. Still didn't resolve the problem completely and was back again and they turned the rear rotors . 4 months later we're back with the pulsation and I had my front rotors turned again. Wasn't quite happy with that as I still felt the pulsation just not as bad. We decided to just let them be and wait.
Well the pulsation got worse over time and a month ago went to Pep Boys and they replaced my Front pads and rotors, they inspected all four prior to that and told me they all looked fine. But I insisted that the pulsation was pretty bad that even felt it on the steering wheel. They replaced the front ones. Next day I was back because the pulsation was still there, and they machined the rotors incase they were already defective. So long story short what else can be causing this. My tie rod ends do not look to be severely worn to possibly cause this. Getting really tired of this car and all its little quirks and problems honestly.
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I give up. I have been trying for a very long time to get the brakes on my 1936 dodge to work with no results. The whole system is rebuilt, new lines, resleeved and rebuilt wheel cylinders, rebuilt and resleeved master cylinder, no leaks in system, pressure bled, vacuum bled and new lines. I even had a mechanic try and get them to work. He said all they needed were to be bled very slow. he actually got them to work slightly but after the car sat for a week the brakes were gone again. Drums all around, master cylinder is single cylinder. Brake pedal goes right to floor.
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A couple of years ago I bought an older used pick up to pull our camper and do any general hauling I might need. It is an '04.5 (they made some changes mid model year) Dodge Ram 2500 turbo diesel. It was high miles when I bought it (hence the reason I could afford it) with upwards of 300k but that is about midlife for this type of truck so I wasn't worried. It has been a great truck over all with only odds and ends that you would expect from an older high mileage truck.
However, it has one issue that started not long after I bought it and persisted for about the first year I had it. When I apply the brakes the pedal hesitates before moving. The brakes work fine other than this but it is a bit unnerving when you hit the pedal and it doesn't move for a full second. It is only about a second and then it releases and works fine.
I thought the problem had gone away when it started braking normally for something like six months but lately it has started doing it again. I know it does this and plan accordingly so I have not had any close calls but still, I would like to fix this. I cannot find any data on this problem.
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my speedo only works at 65 mph the same gos for the curse control once you drop below that they go dead also when this started the ABS ,check eng,and brakes lights came on changed the speed control unt did not work ?????
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My 2005 Dodge Dakota truck is shaking violently (in the front end) when I apply the brakes and I can't seem to fix the problem. I have changed the front rotors, brakes, alignment and new tires.
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Lost braking power. Replaced master cylinder. Brakes went soft again. Shop says it is something to do with the ABS Control Unit (?). Took it to dealer who said it is a leaking master cylinder. Back to shop which claims nothing wrong with new master cylinder and it i the ABS blah blah. Dealer says it can't be ABS. Went to another shop. Replaced master cylinder again. Brakes still soft. No one can figure this out and I am stuck with very soft brakes.
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I have been doing my own brakes for years. I have had some that were not easy to keep from squealing but this one has me wanting to get rid of the car. We have a 2008 Dodge Magnum R/T package. Roughly 38K miles on the car. When the car reached around 10K miles the rear passenger wheel would squeal when you applied the brake. Rotor surface was smooth as glass. I took off the rear rotors only and had them turned. Problem went away for about 5K miles. Then the fronts started squealing.
I replaced the fronts because hte factory did not leave any material to be turned and noted that Dodge glued the pads to the calipers like they would never need to come off. Problem went away for a little while. Then it came back with a vengeance. I replaced the pad material on the fronts with ThermoQuiet pads from Raybestos. Problem is coming back again and now I cannot tell which end of the car it is even coming from because it it so loud. My wife drives this car very carefully. My thought is she is polishing the rotors too smooth and this is our source of noise.
We are at the point of squealing again and I am at my wits end with this. If I light foot it, no noise. If I stop like I think it should be stopped, not killing it, the noise is there. If I stop very quickly about 3 to 5 times in a row the noise is gone for a little while until the pads cool and then it is back even if I am on the same journey.
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My Neon's rear driver's side drum brake keeps locking up without me hitting the brake pedal. I have changed the hardware, wheel cylinder, brake shoes, brake hose, and the drum itself. Once the brakes heat up, the brake will start to drag (that is what it feels like) and then will lock up the rear wheel. I have bled those brakes at least 3 times, so I don't think there is an air bubble in the line. This has been going on for the last 2 months. Someone told me that I might have gotten a bad batch of brake shoes. Another told me that there might still be an air bubble in the line.
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2008 Dodge Avenger SXT Sedan GEMA 2.4L DOHC I4 / 4 speed automatic75,000 miles Moderately well taken care of (oil change every 3,000 miles, mostly follows recommended maintenance in owner's manual)
Symptoms:
*Car runs and drives fine while the car is in constant motion and decelerating.
*Rough and Slow Idle at a stop on the brakes with car in Drive. Engine speed will drop below ~400 RPM, then "kick" up to ~1,200 RPM, settle back to 'normal' idle ~800 RPM, repeat. I have suggested she put the car in Neutral at a stop to see if that changes anything, but I don't have feedback from her yet. One instance of seeing a puff of smoke from under the hood while the car was doing the above.
*When pulling away from a stop, the car will hesitate; that is the accelerator will be pressed but the throttle response will be delayed.
*When pulling away from a stop acceleration will be inconsistent; instead of rrrrrRRRRRRRRRR, it's more like rrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRR
*Couple instances where the car just shut off while she was parallel parking (low engine speed).
*One instance where the car did not start on first attempt. Started fine on second attempt.
*No Check Engine Light. The codes have been run.
Shop Visits (at an independent garage recommended by her roommate who's been going there for 5+ years, good reviews on yelp, and always busy):
*First visit: told her they put in a bottle of fuel system cleaner and to use a tank of high octane gas. That didn't really work.
*Second visit: cleaned the throttle body. That was 3 days ago, so far no conclusion either way.
Other repairs:
*The battery was checked (at O'Reilly) and replaced after the starting incident mentioned above. (5 year old car, seems about right).
*2 nights ago I told her to put in a bottle of HEET to get water out of the fuel system (California uses ethanol blend) and a bottle of Gumout Fuel System Cleaner and to fill up with premium gas (based on items below). Be sure to run that tank down to almost empty.
Things I could think of:
*Crankshaft/camshaft position sensor failing.
*Alternator failing (because this problem doesn't seem to exist at higher RPM's)
Research online: It seems that a number of people have similar problems with Chrysler products with this and the previous generation 2.4L engine but no clear conclusive repair. Some of the items mentioned:
*Idle Air Control (IAC)
*Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
*New sparks plugs and wires. (not replaced but should be)
*New timing belt. Timing belt is one tooth off.
*Water in the Fuel System (hence, HEET)
*Dirty/Clogged Fuel System Component (hence, fuel system cleaner)
*Failing Fuel Pump
*Dirty/Clogged Air Filter (replaced per maintenance manual)
*Low Oil Pressure/Failing Oil Pump
*Additionally, there are no recalls against her VIN.
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My front brakes have never been right in this car. Rotors go bad within a few thousand miles of being replaced. I don't drive fast or anything like that. After years of paying for new rotors at every brake job with Firestone, I decided to do it myself. I put new rotors and pads on a year ago and they went bad in a few months - they feel warped again. I took the rotors off and took them to O'Reilly to get them turned but a micrometer revealed they're not warped, just showing uneven pad wear. The tech said maybe I have a bad caliper. When I did the brake job nothing seemed wrong; both pistons went back into the calipers without issue. Now I'm thinking about replacing both front calipers and pads, but I don't want to waste more money. How do I tell if the calipers are bad and if they are can I fix or replace?
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