Dodge - Neon :: Brakes Heat Up Then Starts To Drag And Lock Rear Wheel
Jul 27, 2015
My Neon's rear driver's side drum brake keeps locking up without me hitting the brake pedal. I have changed the hardware, wheel cylinder, brake shoes, brake hose, and the drum itself. Once the brakes heat up, the brake will start to drag (that is what it feels like) and then will lock up the rear wheel. I have bled those brakes at least 3 times, so I don't think there is an air bubble in the line. This has been going on for the last 2 months. Someone told me that I might have gotten a bad batch of brake shoes. Another told me that there might still be an air bubble in the line.
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After a while of running with the A/C on the car starts to have little hiccups? almost sounds like it's missing? but not that dramatic, it will continue after I turn the A/C off, but resolve after I have had the car off for a while. It will start up again after an hr or less of starting the A/C. It seems like I have a loose in HP while this is happening, more so than normally expected with the A/C on. I have recently replaced the ignition cables, plugs, my car is definitely a little more peppy now, and had the timing belt/water pump replaced, all the ussual maint, but this issue was present before. What this could be?
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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I have been doing my own brakes for years. I have had some that were not easy to keep from squealing but this one has me wanting to get rid of the car. We have a 2008 Dodge Magnum R/T package. Roughly 38K miles on the car. When the car reached around 10K miles the rear passenger wheel would squeal when you applied the brake. Rotor surface was smooth as glass. I took off the rear rotors only and had them turned. Problem went away for about 5K miles. Then the fronts started squealing.
I replaced the fronts because hte factory did not leave any material to be turned and noted that Dodge glued the pads to the calipers like they would never need to come off. Problem went away for a little while. Then it came back with a vengeance. I replaced the pad material on the fronts with ThermoQuiet pads from Raybestos. Problem is coming back again and now I cannot tell which end of the car it is even coming from because it it so loud. My wife drives this car very carefully. My thought is she is polishing the rotors too smooth and this is our source of noise.
We are at the point of squealing again and I am at my wits end with this. If I light foot it, no noise. If I stop like I think it should be stopped, not killing it, the noise is there. If I stop very quickly about 3 to 5 times in a row the noise is gone for a little while until the pads cool and then it is back even if I am on the same journey.
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What would cause the rear drum brakes to lock up upon hard braking? I have replaced the wheel cylinders, installed new spring kit, and adjusters.
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My rear brakes lock up constantly. It doesn't matter how easy I am on the peddle. The ABS goes through it's test on start up. Afterwards, the light goes out. The vehicle sat for quite a long time. I pulled the rear drums and inspected for rust and brake shoe condition. There was no rust to be found and the shoes seemed to be in good shape. I've read on here about some shoes retaining moisture and causing the same thing. These 'seem' dry. I've also read that it could be the RABS. Is there any testing to determine if the RABS is definitely the problem other than by-passing it?
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Yesterday I had my front end jacked up to adjust my coil-over's via spanner wrenches. After I had everything back on I lowered the car down and torqued the lug nuts. I got in to perform a test drive and maybe my parking brake was stuck, or my brakes were dragging. When I put it in reverse (Manual transmission) something was fighting me from moving. I applied the parking brake and then released it again. No luck, so I gave it some rev's and the car moved.
Now when going on sharper turns I hear a odd rubbing noise. It isn't from the wheels or tires. Today I checked my fender liners, because that is what it sounds like, they are ok. I though maybe somehow they were mis-aligned and it was causing the car the tire to rub. I sounds like it is coming from the right side. The car only has 500 miles on it and this problem started exactly after I lowered it down and the parking brake or a caliper was stuck.
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Well my car is back at the dealer, again. Last week they replaced the brain for the ABS and everything on the right rear. Well driving up to and back from Redding, Ca.the brakes started dragging again on the right rear.
This time the rotor had a orage tint to it from the heat when I looked at it. The gas mileage sucks and now this. If I have to take it back for a 3rd time, I am getting rid of it.
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I have an 02 Passat 1.8t that drags the brakes when I am driving to the point that they start smoking when I get off the interstate and my gas mileage is terrible. When I first observed this dragging I popped the hood and found that the check valve on the hose that connects to the end of the intake manifold had a chunk missing and was hissing. I did some research and found that this hose leads to the brake booster so i bought a new valve at the stealership and installed it and I am still having the issue.
I checked all the other hoses around that area and underneath the manifold for leaks and the only thing I found was a hole in the small hose that connects to the very front of the intake manifold that leads to the N249 thingy which i fixed but i haven't tested the brakes yet. When I start my car after it hasn't been on for a while my car does alright for about 10 minutes before the brakes start dragging again. Also pumping my brakes doesn't seem to work much.
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I have a 2002 Dodge Durango and the rear passenger air blows cold only - was fine last winter. Neither the passenger or the driver controls will get warm air to the rear via the overhead vents. Warm air comes out under the front seats to the rear only.
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Before I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
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I have been having a brake drag problem with my '89 Jeep Wrangler. I posted this problem previously when I thought it was an E-brake issue. I did a rear drum spring set change. The problem persisted, so I asked the local auto parts store and they said it could be a faulty master cylinder which I just replaced. The brakes felt fine for the first 1/2 hour driving, then the pedal started feeling harder to push and the brakes were dragging again. I jacked the car up and removed the tires to find both front calipers tight on the rotor, the rears would spin. With someone pressing the pedal, I did not notice any caliper movement.
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My front disc brakes are creating a small amount of drag on the rotor. With the car jacked up and wheel off I am able to easily turn the rotor by hand, but there is a small amount of drag. I haven't had any problems with my brakes, they have never frozen or overheated, etc. I put new brake pads and rotors on the front about 6 months ago only because it was time for replacement. The question is: how much disc brake drag is acceptable? Looking around on the internet for answers there doesn't seem to be a consensus: some people say absolutely no brake drag, some say that a small amount is normal. What do you think?
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I recently replaced my drag link which was loose and clunking around. I noticed my steering wheel is pointed at 11 while driving straight now. I'm not sure if it was like that before, the vehicle was new to me when I did most of the initial work.
It looks to me like I should be able to just adjust the drag link turnbuckle to change the steering wheel position but I'm not sure. Is that okay to do?
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I have a 2010 model 5 and am experiencing a woo, woo, woo, woo type sound. I thought it was from the rear but after jacking up and turning each rear wheel, all I hear is the slight drag from the pads on the disc. The car has 61K on it and from previous posts that seems to be about the mileage range for one. It is most noticeable above 25 to 45 mph. Bad front bearing with this sound? The car is covered under the platinum warranty so cost is not a problem, just getting it diagnosed is useful.
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Intermittently (although lately it's pretty common, perhaps due to the Texas heat?) my car will take several seconds to start. It sounds like the battery is dead, i.e., it sounds as if it's about to start but it straining, and then it eventually engages.
When this happens, I know that a) I won't be able to turn on cruise control and b) I won't be able to accelerate easily. at best I can get it to 60 mph
Similarly, even if I start up without a problem, and I'm cruising down the HWY at 80 MPH, the car will suddenly loose momentum and won't go above 60 mph. And I can't turn on cruise control (cc shuts down, in fact, if it was on).
This is a 2005 Neon, by the way.
I have replaced the battery and cabling to the battery to no avail.
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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One of the gas stations where I live recently added e15 and e30 gasoline to their pumps. I drive a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT and was wondering if either one would be ok to put in this car. I regularly put in the e10 gas and have done so for all of my vehicles since I have been driving. I read that e15 should be fine but was wondering about the e30 gas.
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My car was acting like it was in neutral. After cooling down for 20 minutes, it would drive about a block. Then it would not drive.
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I have a 2000 F250 PSD. When applying the brakes, the rear end starts jumping and bucking. The effect is exaggerated when pulling a trailer and applying the truck brakes to stop. The problem does not occur when manually applying the trailer brakes. It was suggested to me that this problem is caused by a hydro boost leak.
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I've got this 96 neon. I can drive it to work and almost exactly 10 miles into the trip everyday I notice a subtle chug. Then it gets worst and within a couple of miles it chugs progressively worse until it dies. I pull over to the side of the road for 5-10 minutes. Then I can start it back up and run down the road another 3-5 miles before it happens again. I've changed the computer, coil, cam positioning sensor, O2 sensor, gutted the cat, changed plugs and wires. I'm to the end of my rope with this car. The codes that its throwing are no dice.
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