Dodge - Neon :: 2005 - Heater Stopped Working
Feb 10, 2014
I have a 2005 Dodge Neon. The heater stopped working. The blower still works so I am pretty sure the fuse is ok, at least I can't find a separate fuse for the heater. All I see is the blower for the AC/Heater. I replaced the Thermostat and watched it working by letting the car heat up and watched the engine heat drop after a bit. Still no warm air out of the heater. I tried flipping between Cold air and hot air and can tell a difference in the sound of the air blowing that SEEMS to indicate that the flap in the Dash is working to go from cold to hot air. I am sort of out of ideas unless the heater itself is hosed.
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My '05 Dodge Neon's engine just quit when I was stopped at an intersection. All the lights, etc worked. When I turned the key the engine would sound like it started for a brief moment, but it always died a second later and didn't respond to pressure on the gas pedal. I took it to a shop that replaced the alternator, throttle sensor, and "idle air control mtr". A few days later, the car died the exact same way when I was driving down the road. I took it to a second mechanic who looked it over the next day, and it was running. He couldn't find the issue, and it didn't die when he drove it. I don't know if these symptoms are related, but a few minutes before it broke down the first time it jerked and the gauges went crazy. I had a check engine light for "not reading fuel level" or something like that after the first repair but before the second break down, which my first mechanic dismissed as not really important when I asked him about it. My lights also flicker a lot. Battery was replaced last year.
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I'm having Dodge Neon 2000 manual transmission. Suddenly the reverse gear stopped working (others working). I got it towed to my regular mechanic (used to charge comparatively lower than other local shops) and he said one of the shifter cable is broken and other one is stretched. Need too replace them. Is it worth it? (It's an old car and recently I've been spending a lot on this).
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my car sounded very bad and upon raising the hood, noticed a spark plug had blown off. When this happened the steering and brakes got hard to use.
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Intermittently (although lately it's pretty common, perhaps due to the Texas heat?) my car will take several seconds to start. It sounds like the battery is dead, i.e., it sounds as if it's about to start but it straining, and then it eventually engages.
When this happens, I know that a) I won't be able to turn on cruise control and b) I won't be able to accelerate easily. at best I can get it to 60 mph
Similarly, even if I start up without a problem, and I'm cruising down the HWY at 80 MPH, the car will suddenly loose momentum and won't go above 60 mph. And I can't turn on cruise control (cc shuts down, in fact, if it was on).
This is a 2005 Neon, by the way.
I have replaced the battery and cabling to the battery to no avail.
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One of the gas stations where I live recently added e15 and e30 gasoline to their pumps. I drive a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT and was wondering if either one would be ok to put in this car. I regularly put in the e10 gas and have done so for all of my vehicles since I have been driving. I read that e15 should be fine but was wondering about the e30 gas.
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My stepson's 2005 Dodge Neon sometimes won't start. Turn the key, the dash lights and radio and electric stuff respond, but other than a click there is nothing of an engine start up going on. He'll turn the key a few times, he pumps the gas pedal, does what he thinks might wake it up. Usually it will start after a few tries. He thinks it gets worse in the cold weather, but not much worse.
He also notes that if he does a lot of short trips, like running errands, this problem comes up more often. The car may run fine for weeks, and then the problem hits. Of course, it never does this when the mechanic has it. The mechanic has no idea what to do, since the car works when they test it. I was wondering if I used a voltmeter could I check some key nodes when the problem comes up. Also, if it really does get worse at cold, can I spray some suspicious locations with freeze spray to try and instigate the problem?
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2005 Dodge Neon SXT 206XXX
Long story short on a trip (about a 1 hr. drive) got about a block away from destination and gauge showed it was over heating. Stopped the car started up after five min. just fine. Got home replaced the thermostat and cap (old cap was junk). New cap was junk aftermarket so yesterday I took the same car on a half hour drive to get a Mopar cap ran just fine up again until a block away, pulled off the road turned it off let it set a few min. then didn't even show it was over heating. Let the pressure off and replaced the cap and added in a bit more coolant ran fine all the way back (even pushed speed in a few spots).
The above is just what seems to be the mechanical side of the issue. After noticing the gauge was going a bit above the normal spot I noticed my cooling fans are not coming on. Checked fuse and tested relays out to be fine. First thought is to check voltage to the fans but also tempted to check coolant temp sensor with bench test. Will be going over to my dads to do voltage testing later today.
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I have an '05 Dodge Neon SXT (4.0) with 113,000 miles on it. A few days ago, I had three cracked motor mounts replaced. However, I'm experiencing an increased amount of vibration when the engine is idle. I've had the timing belt , the accessory belt, water pump and valve replaced within the last year. I also recently had a coolant flush and an oil change. I was told that the timing belt cover is broken and I intend to have that fixed in the near future. However, I do not believe the timing belt cover is the cause of the vibration since it was broken and did not cause vibration before the motor mounts were replaced. Why I having the vibration?
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My Neon tranny has been acting up lately with the cold weather. When I first put it in gear, if I do not keep it at a near idle sometimes the transmission will go into a total neutral mode. You have to just stop, wait a minute or two, and then begin to take off very slowly.
Once I get couple blocks it works fine. The temps have been in the 30's lately. Will get colder. I have been letting it warm up for about 5 mins before I drive it. I think it may work more if I leave it run longer, maybe 10 mins. The fluid level is full.
Could it have something to do with the fluid being cold? If so, would letting it idle for a very long time, 10 - 15 mins solve this problem? What is causing this? What can be done?
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I would seem that my Neon has started a very small leak seems to be coming from the drive shafts. You may call the differentials. You may also call it a transaxle. I prefer to call them driveshafts and transmissions. I took it to a service place to take a free look at it. I do not have the equipment that they have. They put it on the hoist and when you walk under there it does look like it is coming from one of the driveshafts. They were not Tranny experts and said they could not fix it, but said it would need to be rebuilt or changed. My question is, since they are not tranny experts. Does something like this really need to be rebuilt? Is there not just a seal leaking that can be changed without a rebuild? Why would they make something like that? Just to make you pay more money to get it fixed? I did try some Lucas and then Trans X hoping that would seal it up. Lucas seemed to do nothing. Just put in the Trans X today.
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My 2005 Neon has had a leaking problem for quite some time. It rains...a lot! After a decent rainfall, when I start the car and the first couple times I accelerate, there is an audible hissing sound, and then the water drips in from underneath the dash on the passenger side. The leak is getting progressively worse, and I'm concerned the interior carpets will get moldy. I recently brought the car in for it's 60K checkup, and all is good. The only thing they could find leaking are the seals on the passenger door. Unfortunately, these seals aren't made anymore, and the cost to purchase them is quite expensive, and may or may not fix the leaking issue.
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2005 Dodge Neon SXT 2.0 engine
At first I would have an intermittent jumpy speedo then today it got worse and all of a sudden the check engine light popped on. Got it scanned and had three transmission related codes come on including the gear one incorrect ratio code (can not remember the other three). My first suspect was the VSS output. Replaced the sensor and took it for a test drive; no speedo no shifting. Took it back and and got a new one same issue with the replacement.
The tranny fluid was recently changed just after 203,xxx miles. Believe I am the third owner of this car. Seems to have been well cared for in the past. Recently also did some other work that was not transmission related when I first purchased the vehicle.
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So my aux heater stopped working. It may just be a failed glowplug as per the error code but as there is significant corrosion around the controller I thought it best to get hold of a second hand unit, which leads to a couple of questions.
1. Can the glow plug be changed with the heater in situ?
2. What needs to be removed to get the heater out? Is it a big job?
Even my mech says it's easily the most complex car he's worked on, and he's had Ferraris/Porsches etc in before!
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My dodge charger 3.5L 2007 model have heater problem, The heat blows out cold air.
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My seat heater decided to stop working a few days ago when the temp. dropped down to -30deg Celcius. I checked the fuse today and all is well. I couldn't see any loose wires under the seat either. Both seat warmers stopped working at the same time.
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AS topic states, it just stopped working on my wife's drive home from work... I believe the fuse is the 2nd one from the top.. far left... I checked it, and it's in-tact...
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My 2003 Dodge Caravan instrument and radio/heater lights stopped working. I don't see any bad fuses or fusible links. Odometer and other service lights work fine.
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The heater/ac blower stopped working on my 2004 Lexus GX470. All the lights and display work but the fan doesn't work on any speed. I replaced the relay in the fuse box under the hood but no luck. I removed the blower and it works when I hot wire it to the battery. I checked the voltage coming into the blower and its at 13.5V, same as coming off the battery but it doesn't turn the fan.
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The blower for the a/c and heater, defrost stopped working. would work sometimes, now doesn't work at all.
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The water level is up, the heater hose is hot on both sides of the heater hose bypass valve, the MtrCrft thermo is pretty new, but it blows cool air out the vents even after a half hour of driving. It was working great last week and then nothing. I guess you can see the blend door moving if you pop the glove box out?..........haven't tried that.
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