Dodge - Neon :: 2001 - Runs Hot / Radiator Fan Turns Off When Engine Is Shut Off
Jul 31, 2011
My son's 2001 Dodge Neon tends to run hot. The radiator fan comes on while the engine is running, but does not stay on when the engine is turned off, even if the temp indicator is in the range where the fan should be on. Wiring diagram looks like the fan control relay only works when the ignition is in ON or RUN, which would indicate that this is the way the electrical system is designed, but that seems weird...I thought the fan is supposed to operate even if the engine is turned off. We have already replace the thermostat.
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So, I have a 2004 Dodge Neon that had a radiator fail, pushing coolant into the transmission. I tried one garage that wouldn't touch it, but did find another one willing to try a power flush. I had that done, and several subsequent flushes over two weeks left me with clean transmission fluid. It's been about 3 weeks (and one 200 mile trip) without any issues, but I'm a little worried about any damage that might've been done.
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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In the process of moving to a new house our Neon SE (2.0L, SOHC) sat for about a week without being driven. When my wife goes to start it (5am Monday morning: FUN), it turns but won't actually start. I throw on the code reader and get a P0508, Idle Air Control valve sense circuit Low. At this point, I've put on a new IAC valve, note: the throttle body looked good and in working order, and spliced on a new OEM wiring harness, but the pos still won't fire up. When tracing the wires, there was no indication of them being frayed or short-circuiting. The next step, following this code P0508, would be to change out the PCM. From my research, if the PCM is truly bad, there's usually one or several codes indicating as much; i.e. I'd be getting a lot more than just a P0508.
Could the P0508 been a red herring? I generally associated a bad starter or starter solenoid with a clicking noise, but would this still be worth checking out? On that same note, could the culprit be a bad ignition coil even without any codes showing for IC-related problems?
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Looking for a cruise control wiring diagram for a 2001 neon they can share? Or know where I can get it?
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My stepson's 2005 Dodge Neon sometimes won't start. Turn the key, the dash lights and radio and electric stuff respond, but other than a click there is nothing of an engine start up going on. He'll turn the key a few times, he pumps the gas pedal, does what he thinks might wake it up. Usually it will start after a few tries. He thinks it gets worse in the cold weather, but not much worse.
He also notes that if he does a lot of short trips, like running errands, this problem comes up more often. The car may run fine for weeks, and then the problem hits. Of course, it never does this when the mechanic has it. The mechanic has no idea what to do, since the car works when they test it. I was wondering if I used a voltmeter could I check some key nodes when the problem comes up. Also, if it really does get worse at cold, can I spray some suspicious locations with freeze spray to try and instigate the problem?
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I have 1995 Dodge Neon (automatic). Lately, after long trips and on the highway the "check engine" light will come on. Then, the car seems to struggle shifting. I will be cruising along at like 68 MPH, then ease my foot off the gas to slow down, and the engine/car awkwardly jerks 2-3 times as it slows down. Trying to stay in the 60-70 MPH range is hard because is keeps hesitating and jerking as my speed changes, not HEAVILY but enough to make driving unpleasant. My cruise control stopped working about a year ago, I have not had it looked at yet, but I thought I should mention it. When I let the car rest overnight, the light goes off, and there is not problem until I go on a long trip again (around 200 miles.) This only happens at higher speeds, around town there is not a problem.
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The engine idles beautifully. However, the engine hesitates upon acceleration. Once the engine reaches approximately 2000 rpms the engine smooths out and runs well. This is even more noticeable when the AC is running.
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I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.
But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.
I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop.
Here is the previous battery link. [URL] .....
(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).
And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.
I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model. [URL] ....
Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.
If this is a normal situation, I checked online, a lot of people don't take it serious and say it is the way it's designed to be. One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.
I have two questions,
1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)
2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive.
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Dad's 97 dodge neon still showing a CEL and a code for a misfire but according to code reader it has something with the fuel line that is causing not enough fuel to get to engine. Car has a new fuel pump (about 6 months old) and it runs fine for a while then will sputter then will run fine for a while and back and forth. What it might be?
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Turns out the crank shaft position sensor only fixed the cars ability to start and stop and did not cure the acceleration issue. What happens? The symptoms occur during the following conditions.
1. Hard acceleration
2. Going up hills
3. With heavy loads
Basically the car loses power and sounds like it is getting muffled. Then it just picks up rapidly and takes off.I have tested out the throttle position sensor and it checks out fine. The car never completely stops.If I feather the throttle, it picks up and keeps moving forward.
Haven't tried the EGR valve, fuel filter or fuel pump.
Strange thing though.The car was sitting for about two months until I replaced the crank shaft position sensor. Then it started up fine, and ran without problems.The tank went low, and I filled it with gas.AFter that, the car started having problems. The only thing I can think of is two things.
1. When I filled it up is raised sediment and somehow clogged something.
2. The excessive pressure in the tank is causing issues.
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My '05 Dodge Neon's engine just quit when I was stopped at an intersection. All the lights, etc worked. When I turned the key the engine would sound like it started for a brief moment, but it always died a second later and didn't respond to pressure on the gas pedal. I took it to a shop that replaced the alternator, throttle sensor, and "idle air control mtr". A few days later, the car died the exact same way when I was driving down the road. I took it to a second mechanic who looked it over the next day, and it was running. He couldn't find the issue, and it didn't die when he drove it. I don't know if these symptoms are related, but a few minutes before it broke down the first time it jerked and the gauges went crazy. I had a check engine light for "not reading fuel level" or something like that after the first repair but before the second break down, which my first mechanic dismissed as not really important when I asked him about it. My lights also flicker a lot. Battery was replaced last year.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Neon with 110k miles. When starting my car and putting it into gear, I have to rev the engine in order for my car to jump into gear. It also does it when I come to a light. I could be at a complete stop and the car will either jump forward or I will have to rev the engine in order for it to slip into gear. What could be the problem?
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My 95 Dodge neon had no problems it ran, started, drove fine everyday! Check engine light turns on after few drives... Now after about 10 drives the car does not start. It makes a rapid clicking noise.... Called auto shop they say battery, I bought this battery one year ago from them. They suggest i try a jump start. I go to jump start, look down check engine light is FLASHING.... Since car wont start, needs a tow for a car I'm not even driving nor will drive and not worth my money to invest anymore.....
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I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.
But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.
I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop
(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).
And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.
I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model,
Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.
One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.
I have two questions,
1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)
2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive, I'm just worried if that battery can solve the problem.
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Went out to my car a moment ago, Dodge Neon 2000, couldn't get the engine to start. The lights all come on, battery seems fine. It sounds like the engine isn't even trying to turn over. Instead, the car makes a weird chugging noise. I've got a recording here, is someone still awake that could give me a clue as to what this is?
[URL] .... -- I turn the key twice here and let it chug. You can hear the noise at about the 2-second mark. I don't think I had any advance warning that anything was wrong, though I did have the car in the shop a few days ago to replace a water pump and timing belt.
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My Neon needed a water pump. At 204K miles the timing belt should be replaced also. The pump and belt were replaced. The motor started and the car drove about 1000ft. and stopped. There was no more spark. The car was checked to make sure that the timing belt is on correctly. The cam points to top dead center when the #1 cylinder is at peak and the crankshaft is at top dead center. Both marks align. When the key is turned the starter tries to turn but the engine does not spark. Electricity goes to the coil pack. 1998 Dodge Neon 2.0L SOHC 4 cylinder....
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I have a engine code for evap sensor sometimes this can be ignored but this is causing me to keep cranking my car in order to start up what should I look for I know there's solenoid and charcoal canister and gas cap which one could be keeping my car from starting the first time.
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I have a 1997 Dodge Neon with about 153,XXX miles on it. My check engine light has been on and i know that is caused by a random misfire. But more recently i went to start my car and it started but ran for less then 10 seconds and died. I tried to start it again and it wanted to but wouldnt make the final step i guess. We checked my spark plugs and i had oil sitting in 3 of the 4 there are. We have tried starting it again after cleaning the oil out and it started on the first try, I am just afraid of messing anything else up so until we figure out why it did this to begin with the vehicle is off limits. My Fiance said we need to replace the spark plugs and a gasket.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Neon that I've been troubleshoot for awhile now and can't figure it out. My engine shakes pretty badly and found I had some broken engine mounts on my passenger side. I've replaced them and calibrated my struts but the problem persists.
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My dad has a 97 Dodge Neon 4 cylinder. The car has been leaking oil, and on Sat the leak grew and was real bad. He took it to the only shop he could find open who put it up on the lift and said the leak was coming from the front of the engine. On monday they did the work ($286) and told my dad it was a seal on the front of the engine behind the flywheel. My dad is old and doesn't hear well and the mechanics english was not real strong and his writing on the recepit is not real clear. As I am worried my dad might have gotten taken, is there a replaceable seal on the front of the engine that could go and cause a leak? They showed my dad the leak as the car was on the lift and running as that was only when the leak occured. I am concerned my dad was taken. He says he drove it around and such and didn't see any leaking when he picked it up and left it running in his drivway for a while upon getting home and no leak. Just wondering?
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