Dodge - Neon :: 1995 - Check Engine Light Flashing
May 11, 2012
My 95 Dodge neon had no problems it ran, started, drove fine everyday! Check engine light turns on after few drives... Now after about 10 drives the car does not start. It makes a rapid clicking noise.... Called auto shop they say battery, I bought this battery one year ago from them. They suggest i try a jump start. I go to jump start, look down check engine light is FLASHING.... Since car wont start, needs a tow for a car I'm not even driving nor will drive and not worth my money to invest anymore.....
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I have a 1997 Dodge Neon with about 153,XXX miles on it. My check engine light has been on and i know that is caused by a random misfire. But more recently i went to start my car and it started but ran for less then 10 seconds and died. I tried to start it again and it wanted to but wouldnt make the final step i guess. We checked my spark plugs and i had oil sitting in 3 of the 4 there are. We have tried starting it again after cleaning the oil out and it started on the first try, I am just afraid of messing anything else up so until we figure out why it did this to begin with the vehicle is off limits. My Fiance said we need to replace the spark plugs and a gasket.
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2005 Dodge Neon SXT 2.0 engine
At first I would have an intermittent jumpy speedo then today it got worse and all of a sudden the check engine light popped on. Got it scanned and had three transmission related codes come on including the gear one incorrect ratio code (can not remember the other three). My first suspect was the VSS output. Replaced the sensor and took it for a test drive; no speedo no shifting. Took it back and and got a new one same issue with the replacement.
The tranny fluid was recently changed just after 203,xxx miles. Believe I am the third owner of this car. Seems to have been well cared for in the past. Recently also did some other work that was not transmission related when I first purchased the vehicle.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Stratus (165,000 Miles). The check engine light has been on for at least eight months. I took it to have it checked out and the mechanic said ''there is a very small crack in the exhaust line''. Well, now if I turn the car on cold, it shakes all over and sometimes will turn off. It smells like straight exhaust.
Yesterday I started the car and the check engine light flashed for a good minute, then stayed on. Also, when I get out from a normal drive, you can smell gas. Plain ole gas.
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On empty a week ago, filled 1/2 a tank, drove home no issue. Didn't drive truck for a week. Turned it on this morning (didn't warm it up) about 10 minutes into the drive anytime you tried to accelerate, the truck would buck. If you were idling or just had your foot slightly on the pedal driving at the same speed it was fine, it only bucked when I really pushed on the pedal to accelerate. The check engine light started flashing as well.
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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I've only owned my neon for 3 weeks. I have a loud knocking/clunking noise and it feels like the rear is trying to freeze up in reverse it knocks/clunks louder when i brake in reverse. Sometimes it will knock/clunk and feel like something is trying freeze up in normal forward driving (maybe one of twice every few days) but it happens every single time i reverse.
We have already replaced the rear struts as we thought this was the problem.
I'm getting frustrated I need a good car to drive my child to school and I afraid to drive this one but I don't have much of a choice. It has had a lot of recent work by the previous owner (my brother-in-law) including a new clutch, exhaust, tie rods, new brakes all around and brand new tires so i'd like to fix it because it's in great shape and runs well for it age.
Another piece of information that may be relevant is the car sat for roughly a year and half with no use but was regularly started although I don't think they moved it. I'm wondering if it could have something to do with the brakes?
The problem starting roughly 3 days after I bought the car I don't drive much but would like to fix this so we can take it on longer trips as it's the only vehicle we own that fits everyone in it. Our secondary is a 2 seater Toyota pickup for my husband to commute to work in and there's 3 of us so the car being in the condition it's in doesn't work for us.
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With a 100 k on the odometer, the wife reports that the car started shaking, trans was slipping and check engine light came on after driving about two miles. She drives it at low speed back to the house. Investigation under the hood shows trans fluid in the radiator and coming out of the overflow tank. Engine starts right up and we have not had any other driveline problems since owning the car in 2005.
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My sons commuter car is having an intermittent engine light. If you turn left while driving it goes off, turn right it goes on, move the wheel left and right you can make it a disco light on and off. I have had two code readers on this car and there are no engine codes. Im in California so it cant pass emissions test with any engine light despite the fact there are not codes.
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My stepson's 2005 Dodge Neon sometimes won't start. Turn the key, the dash lights and radio and electric stuff respond, but other than a click there is nothing of an engine start up going on. He'll turn the key a few times, he pumps the gas pedal, does what he thinks might wake it up. Usually it will start after a few tries. He thinks it gets worse in the cold weather, but not much worse.
He also notes that if he does a lot of short trips, like running errands, this problem comes up more often. The car may run fine for weeks, and then the problem hits. Of course, it never does this when the mechanic has it. The mechanic has no idea what to do, since the car works when they test it. I was wondering if I used a voltmeter could I check some key nodes when the problem comes up. Also, if it really does get worse at cold, can I spray some suspicious locations with freeze spray to try and instigate the problem?
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So my check engine light came on a while ago and the code indicated my second oxygen sensor. I replaced it and the light went out...for a while. Now it comes on for a while and then goes out. Not sure what to think.
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My friend just bought (one week ago) a 1995 Infiniti G20T with 130,000 miles. The car is in great condition, except for the flecking/peeling gold paint (common problem with gold or silver paints?). When he bought it the car had a couple minor issues and had the "check engine" light on. After researching a bit, we figured that the possible issues causing the check engine light couldn't be too severe, given the car's asking price. So, he buys the car and I look up how to check the "check engine" light codes. I manage to get at the ECU and record (with the blinking red light) two codes: #34 and #105 - knock sensor and EGR + canister and control soleloid.
Good news, I told him. Both of those are relatively cheap to fix. So, I close up the ECU access and ask to borrow the car to run a couple errands. So, I go to one store, shop, get back in the car, make another stop at a store, get back in the car, make a third stop at a store and as I'm parking the car appears to start to loose power - engine seems about to stall and lights fade a bit. I rev the engine and it's fine. I (stupidly) go into the store and return to the car which now won't start. Turning the key to the crank position produces "click click click" and nothing else. Radio and lights work, but I turn off all these in case it's a low battery. Again - click click click.
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I've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
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I have 1995 Dodge Neon (automatic). Lately, after long trips and on the highway the "check engine" light will come on. Then, the car seems to struggle shifting. I will be cruising along at like 68 MPH, then ease my foot off the gas to slow down, and the engine/car awkwardly jerks 2-3 times as it slows down. Trying to stay in the 60-70 MPH range is hard because is keeps hesitating and jerking as my speed changes, not HEAVILY but enough to make driving unpleasant. My cruise control stopped working about a year ago, I have not had it looked at yet, but I thought I should mention it. When I let the car rest overnight, the light goes off, and there is not problem until I go on a long trip again (around 200 miles.) This only happens at higher speeds, around town there is not a problem.
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The engine idles beautifully. However, the engine hesitates upon acceleration. Once the engine reaches approximately 2000 rpms the engine smooths out and runs well. This is even more noticeable when the AC is running.
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I have a 1998 expedition 4.6 4x4 check engine light on od light flashing sometimes checked it and got p1747 code i was told epc solenoid or short on trans wiring. I already dropped the trans pan, looking for a step by step easy way to diagnose and find the short or if i need to replace any of the solenoids. I have voltmeter and taste light....
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I've got a 2006 B9 with about 64,000 miles. Just a bit ago my check engine and ABS light came on, along with my cruise light flashing.
After researching a little bit on the forums and couldn't find an answer, I took it into the dealer, to which I was told that there was a bad oil pressure sensor for the right-hand side of the motor. I had them replace it out, and less than 20 miles down the road, the same lights appeared on my instrument cluster, and I took it back to the dealer. They informed me that there was now a bad sensor on the left hand side that would be another $380. I scheduled an appointment for later next week, and had them reset the error.
On the same day, about 2 hours later the lights reappeared on my dash, and I took the car over to a local parts store, where I used their scanner and the car now spit the following errors:
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 1 timing over advan.
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 2 timing over advan
Cam/crankshaft pos. correlation sensor A - Bank 2
Cam/crankshaft pos. Correlation sensor A - Bank 1
Camshaft position actuator A bank 1 timing over - advan
Camshaft position adctuator A bank 2 timing over -advan
Cam/crankshaft pos correlation sensor A - bank 1
I reset the codes, and waited another day for the lights to reappear on the dash. Again, I rescanned the errors, and found the same top 5 codes that I listed above.
Is there something more major going on here with the computer?
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Have a 1998 Dodge Neon and all of a sudden my dome light won't come on, either by opening a door or twisting my headlight knob to the left...changing the bulb didn't work....then I noticed that the chimes that come on when you forget to turn your headlights off didn't come on anymore either.
Those are the only 2 things that won't work....all other gauges, lights etc; work fine. I wanted to check fuses but where the fuse is located for this issue...my manual says it's under the hood but there is nothing there that indicates this...I pulled the closet one I could figure and was going to change it, but when I got back in my car to go to the fuse shop my radio didn't work, so I put it back in and radio was fine!
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Had an issue with "check" engine light turning on and "cruise" control light flashing, intermittently. Dealer said we had dirty oil contaminating some solenoid valves in the system but we had just done an oil change and do so every 3-5K (car has 170K). They recommended switching around the sensors and doing an "oil flush" with another oil change. The warning light problem hasn't recurred, in the past month, since we started giving the gas cap a few extra turns after a fill-up. We're getting ready to buy a new car and don't want to give what might be a serious problem over to the next owner.
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I have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
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Have a Volvo XC70 and LOVE it! Recently ETS light came on and Check engine has always been on, mechanics did not seem to worried in past. As of the last month seemed to be issue with thermostat... Car would warm to normal when idling and driving below 25 mph... once I accelerated needle would drop and thermostat would go to baseline... Could feel faint warm air, but was only getting cold air coming from vents... Thought it might be thermostat stuck open?
Called my trusted mechanic and he recommended going to a radiator specialist, felt he might not be able to solve. Went to new shop today, after dropping off at 8am when they opened and not hearing from them until 4:45pm, 15 minutes before they close... Car is fixed, or so they say. Hot air is indeed coming out of vents and needle is staying where it should without falling...
BUT, now there is a strange smell (sulfur"ish") coming from the engine, and the car is shuddering and vibrating, bucking almost when car comes to a stop and then accelerates. ETS light is back on and check engine is now flashing!?! Tried going up hill on the way home and could not go faster than 20mph? None of this was happening before I took it in to the new shop today? They changed oil and oil filter and flushed radiater?
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