Dodge - Intrepid :: Rocker Panel Rusted On One Side
Apr 3, 2014
My 96 Dodge Intrepid has pretty rusted rocker panel on one side. The plastic covers are fine, the metal beneath them are in tough shape.
I would like to keep the car another year but not sure if I can pass inspection.
Someone suggested to me to look into replacement rocker panels that can be attached by an adhesive. He said he did this on his Chevy.
I took a quick look and could not find any for this car. Does not mean they are not out there. I just did not find them. Where to look?
Another person suggested I make some sheet metal brackets and attached the plastic covers and that should suffice. Easier said than done.
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Recently I made a corrosion claim about some rust forming on my jetta. Long story short VWOA accepted to replace my passenger side fender and trunk, but refused to replace my passenger side rocker panel. Once all the warranty work is taken care of I would like to treat the rocker panel rust the best way possible. I'm not looking to spend hundreds of dollars on this procedure, but I don't want there to be a hole in my car by next winter.
Personally I'm thinking of sanding it all down, treating the rust, applying some paint to it, and then trying to protect the area a little more by investing in OEM side skirts.
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Any tips and tricks on cleaning this? Just did an entire wash clay compound with orbital and a wax. Car looks great for a 12 year old but This area is a bit tricky clay gets stuck in the pores and nothing seems to clean it well. Id like to clay it but its not working well.
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hey haven't been on this forum since I had my 1995 f150 (miss that strait sixer). Here is my question I bought a 2001 ford f150 supercrew with rusted rocker panels a year ago now there gone I have some tube steps attached wondering what the panel is that they attach to cause that seems pretty rusty as well and wondering if there is anyway of replacing it and if so where can I find it? I found all kinds of the outer rocker but not that inner rocker? if that is what you call it.
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Is it possible to temporarily seal and brace up a front windshield that has a crack in it from side to side, due to cold weather, I'm told? And would replacing it with a used one, on a 2003 Dodge Intrepid be something a Saturday Mechanic with a woodstove in his garage be able to tackle?
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I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with 92000 miles. Several times a day I get a vibration or shaking coming from the right side front tire. It comes and goes. It only happens between say 30 and 50 miles an hour. It stops whenever you hit the gas or turn the wheel to the right. Seems to start mostly after hitting a bump or rough road.
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I have a major coolant leak in my '99 Dodge Intrepid. I had both top and bottom housing kits replaced over the summer and for the last month I've been having to add coolant about every 3 days to every day now. Today coming home, my car started to steam from underneath the hood and temperature gauge was rising on the hotter side while I was at the stoplight. When I got home I checked the water pump and it was empty. Not in a financial point to have this fixed right away, am wanting a temporary solution for a couple of weeks to get by before I can get it in the shop.
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I've got a 2000 f150 4x4 extended cab, and the rocker panels under the doors are getting rust holes in them. I would like to get mine fixed/replaced this spring. My truck is in great shape other than the rust holes under the doors.
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A 2002 F-150 XLT. I was lucky enough to find one that had always been garage kept and has no rust. Unfortunately, I do not have a garage at my house and I need to prevent rust in the rocker panels and cab corners, the typical rust spots. Is it as simple as buying a can of 3m undercoat and spraying the inside of the panels? How to prevent rust?
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My automatic door lock is making a buzzing noise when it locks the door. It does not make any noise when unlocking. I need to remove the door panel to take a look. How to remove the panel on the drivers door of a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan?
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I have a 2002 dodge intrepid that wont crank over sometimes unless I take the key and keep moving from the start position to the off position ,then it finally engages. I have replaced the battery, but I thought if it was a starter issue, it would click more than once.
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I backed out of the drive way with My 96 Dodge Intrepid yesterday and when I put it in drive I noticed the CEL came was on. Seemed like it came on with in a few seconds of driving forward. I was driving slow as that is what is called for in my neighborhood and all seemed ok. About 2 minutes later when I was going about 40 I noticed the Tach was at about 3k. I seems it will not shift into 3rd. I moved the shift lever several times and it did not seem to impact anything. I immediately drove home and used my other car to go to my appointment. It did seem to shift fine other than that.It never got to warm so I did not check the fluid but I did check it a few days earlier and it was ok. We had snow the previous day and I would have noticed any leaks on the drive way, which I did look for, and did not find any.
I know I need to get the CEL read. I need to drive about 10 miles to get somewhere to do that. Is there anything else I can check or try before hand? My guess is it is an electrical issue as it happened fast with out any warning. I don't have a lot of experience with transmissions but my guess is it is a solenoid not working. It may be fried or it is not getting a signal. Possibly VSS or something in the powertrain module or what every they call it in Chrysler world?
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I have 2004 Dodge Intrepid 3.5L with 153K miles. For the past tow months I am getting oil in the radiator but NO antifreeze in the oil. Oil level gets low but the transmission fluid is fine. No coolant smoke, No Oil smoke, Have been draining coolant, Passed emission 3-months ago, Gas mileage is fine @ 23MPG. I have to add about quart a month (1000?-miles). I have been using Mobile-1 synthetic since bought the car at 108K. Currently 153K miles on the engine. Two years ago water pump and timing belt was replaced. If it is the head gasket then why oil is fine and no coolant in the oil. It is Not transmission Fluid either.
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I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid automatic v6. My battery light is lightup on the dash board so I figured my battery was dying due to loss of power in the vehicle, or the alternator going out. I took off the negative wire to the battery and the car continued to run, as Ive been told that by doing this, if the car dies then the alternator is bad. I checked the battery and it reads 14 volts, so I believe the battery is good? I do have a sound system in the car and have a 1500 watt amp connected, the previous owners also had a stereo system and however they rigged there's was totally a mess as the wires were all, just a mess. As of today, the car has died, and when we jumped it it did start up, but was not able to keep power, the dash lights would not come on, basically anything that had to do with electric stuff was not working? I did just get a tune up and oil change, new spark plugs and wires, and also it has been over heating.....
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I have a 98 Dodge Intrepid and it smokes when I pull out. I was told it may be the valve seals. Is this true? Could it be the rings? It doesnt seem to smoke when I go up hills just when I pull out.. Is there an easy fix?
What are some problems I can expect with this car? I have 107,000 miles and am wondering when can I expect the timing belt to fail? What are some things I may have to fix?
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Here is the history of the car. 1997 Dodge Intrepid, 3.3L V6, close to 200k miles. Bought used 8 years ago.
Engine was replaced by previous owner due to front end accident at 90k (about, memory is fuzz on the full miles). Previous owner was a sales lady and had a repair log. Kept car running like a coo-coo clock since work paid for the maintenance. Her insurance paid for the repair then her work would not continue to pay for upkeep, due to accident. Since I bought the car, I kept in the same frame of mind of maintenance and upkeep.
- Oil is changed regularly and on time (no burning or loss, still filled to levels with synthetic high mileage oil) (Color - maple syrup amber, due to be changed in 500 or so miles)
- Water pump changed 3 months ago (no oil in the res. tank)
- Alt. changed in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Ignition Coil and spark plug wires in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Battery replaced in 2007 with a new one)
- Spark plugs last Feb. (about 10k miles ago - Look semi clean and are all gaped still to the manual specs) as well as the 2 belts on the engine.
(Timing chain same age as the replaced engine at 90k)
- All the instrument panel lights work, as well as head, turn signals, interior and tail.
Has for a long time (4 years or so), has an engine light on for an O2 sensor (Code 0134 and the meter I have).
The exhaust system had disconnected from the Catalytic Converter (engine side) last winter (9 months or so ago) due to weathering (clamps rusted off and pipes separated). Recently I repaired this 2 weeks ago (noting heavy black soot in the pipes and around the area on the underside). Once replaced had a cloud of soot when I floor the gas hard while driving.
Yesterday while driving after 10 mins from home while accelerating I noticed a loss of power (slowing down) instinct was to press the gas, did so, and slowed down even more. Car drifted to a stop, engine power was also gone (power steering was gone also). When this happened, there was No banging, or clunks, or loud sounds, or overtly ominous clouds of smoke. Engine turned off (while costing to a stop the engine acted as if out of gas - hence no power steering). Got a tow home.
The starter turns the engine over with no clatter, banging, or clunks. No backfires or "Coughing". Same sound as of before, but won't catch and run under own power. (Still acts like no gas, but has half a tank) (battery still has a full charge - spark plugs still spark - took one out of engine while still connected to spark plug cable grounded to engine for testing. No overtly heavy gas smell or residue on plug or during test).
My friend who assisted in the exhaust repair says that it is not the Catalytic Converter being clogged (I believe it is). His suggestion is a faulty sensor somewhere else, maybe cam/crank sensor, maybe MAP sensor, maybe ignition switch, bad EGR or even a bad ASD relay. Don't want to be buying parts to no end on this, need other input to narrow down a direction.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Intrepid 2.7 L DOHC that continues to run hot. I have replaced the thermostat, fans, relief value and have done a radiator flush.
After I have had these things done the car does fine for about a week then back to the same old crap. I can drive about 40 miles in the morning time nothing happens. In the afternoon about 20 miles then the temp gauge starts rising so I turn on my heater for about 5 minutes till it goes down then turn the ac back on for the next 20 miles home and does fine.
If I turn the car off for about 10 minutes or less then crank it back up the temp gauge jumps way up there I sit and let it idle till it goes back down on its own without the heater.
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I recieved a smog check and I fail one small problem. but what do this code stands for PO441?
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My 01 Dodge Intrepid has a year old rebuilt engine and a yr. old master computer. Past two months, just dies while driving. Try to start and just turns over and over and over. Once it sits for two days, it will start right up first try. Twice it has died at the same spot on the highway entrance ramp! Seems like a clogged fuel filter but shop says there is plenty of fuel and good pressure. They think it is the computer and needs to be "flashed" at a dealer. I smell oil burning on the engine and the oil light keeps coming on but the oil was just changed and is still full and clean? (The first time it went in for this problem the guy just replaced a relay--doesn't show any codes).
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I have a 97 intrepid with3.5 replaced fuel injector ran worse replaced fuel pressure reg ran little better won't stay running replaced fuel pump sound a lot better runs longer but still dies to replace air control vial runs even better but RPMs stay at 3500 for a min then dies down to 500 rpm then just dies, whats wrong with this car ?
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I was trying to look up how to change the battery in a 1999 dodge intrepid. When I looked on line I got different ways to change it. One was removing the front tire and remove it from below. The other is to remove air cleaner and other items and remove from the top. Which way is it?
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