Dodge - Intrepid :: 1996 Stalls / Refuses To Start
Jul 3, 2013
96 intrepid, 3.5 motor. Runs fine, no loss of power or odd behavior but will just die. Like flipping a switch. Refuses to start. I checked fuel pressure and it's good. No codes. Does this motor have a MAF? Sure can't find one. It has the odd split intake plenum. 1 air box but 2 separate inlet ducts to each side of motor. The motor is not transverse. It has 2 throttle bodies on the firewall side of motor with a shaft that runs between them. So eventually it starts. Idles fine. I watch it idle. And click, it shuts off.
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The two Radiator fans are always running even at start up on a cold day. I have not had time to investigate as yet but I am assuming it is the temperature sensor located near the thermostat or a relay. No CEL on. What it likely is and how to approach the trouble shooting?
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I backed out of the drive way with My 96 Dodge Intrepid yesterday and when I put it in drive I noticed the CEL came was on. Seemed like it came on with in a few seconds of driving forward. I was driving slow as that is what is called for in my neighborhood and all seemed ok. About 2 minutes later when I was going about 40 I noticed the Tach was at about 3k. I seems it will not shift into 3rd. I moved the shift lever several times and it did not seem to impact anything. I immediately drove home and used my other car to go to my appointment. It did seem to shift fine other than that.It never got to warm so I did not check the fluid but I did check it a few days earlier and it was ok. We had snow the previous day and I would have noticed any leaks on the drive way, which I did look for, and did not find any.
I know I need to get the CEL read. I need to drive about 10 miles to get somewhere to do that. Is there anything else I can check or try before hand? My guess is it is an electrical issue as it happened fast with out any warning. I don't have a lot of experience with transmissions but my guess is it is a solenoid not working. It may be fried or it is not getting a signal. Possibly VSS or something in the powertrain module or what every they call it in Chrysler world?
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96 dodge intrepid, 3.5. Few yrs back kid flooded it at -10f. I changed wet plugs and it started. Ran ok for 10miN, idled fine .n than I drove it 10 miles and it would not idle. I was 150mi from home and kept going. Car ran so-so. Seemed sluggish at 60mph. Exhaust actually made black/soot stain on bumper. My mileage on hwy was about 1/2 normal. I pulled plugs when I got home and they were black. Took about 1 week of driving to eventually settle down. Never did find any reason for issue. Some said my o2 sensors were buggy. I never changed them and had car for 2 more yrs and it ran great. Why it would not idle?
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Background: Check engine light indicated a problem with the throttle position sensor (unfortunately, don't have the exact code). The TPS on my model ('96 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L) is the non-adjustable type. There are three wires going to the TPS -- a power source, a signal wire, and a ground. The TPS acts as a potentiometer and depending on the throttle position, sends a voltage signal down the signal wire to the computer.
Here's my question/issue: After disconnecting the TPS, I tested the three wires with a multimeter. Power source (5V) and ground were fine. But I'm getting a voltage reading of about 4.35V on the signal wire. It's my understanding that with the TPS disconnected, I shouldn't be getting any voltage on that wire. Does that sound correct? If so, what would be causing me to get a voltage reading there? I'm assuming some type of problems with the wires, maybe an exposed wire on the signal wire somewhere?
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I've got a 99 dodge ram 1500 sport, with nearly 250k miles logged, and it refused to start up this morning.
It ran fine this past friday, aside from a horrible squealing noise it made. It has power, its getting fuel, and it coughs and sputters like it wants to start, but it refuses. How do I get this thing to come back to life?
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Our Grand Am runs well when it decides to start! But occasionally when the key is turned all the way on, the starter may take a few minutes to engage, or not at all. Usually it just starts right up, but not every time, so it is not reliable. The key lock cylinder has been replaced.
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Here is the history of the car. 1997 Dodge Intrepid, 3.3L V6, close to 200k miles. Bought used 8 years ago.
Engine was replaced by previous owner due to front end accident at 90k (about, memory is fuzz on the full miles). Previous owner was a sales lady and had a repair log. Kept car running like a coo-coo clock since work paid for the maintenance. Her insurance paid for the repair then her work would not continue to pay for upkeep, due to accident. Since I bought the car, I kept in the same frame of mind of maintenance and upkeep.
- Oil is changed regularly and on time (no burning or loss, still filled to levels with synthetic high mileage oil) (Color - maple syrup amber, due to be changed in 500 or so miles)
- Water pump changed 3 months ago (no oil in the res. tank)
- Alt. changed in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Ignition Coil and spark plug wires in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Battery replaced in 2007 with a new one)
- Spark plugs last Feb. (about 10k miles ago - Look semi clean and are all gaped still to the manual specs) as well as the 2 belts on the engine.
(Timing chain same age as the replaced engine at 90k)
- All the instrument panel lights work, as well as head, turn signals, interior and tail.
Has for a long time (4 years or so), has an engine light on for an O2 sensor (Code 0134 and the meter I have).
The exhaust system had disconnected from the Catalytic Converter (engine side) last winter (9 months or so ago) due to weathering (clamps rusted off and pipes separated). Recently I repaired this 2 weeks ago (noting heavy black soot in the pipes and around the area on the underside). Once replaced had a cloud of soot when I floor the gas hard while driving.
Yesterday while driving after 10 mins from home while accelerating I noticed a loss of power (slowing down) instinct was to press the gas, did so, and slowed down even more. Car drifted to a stop, engine power was also gone (power steering was gone also). When this happened, there was No banging, or clunks, or loud sounds, or overtly ominous clouds of smoke. Engine turned off (while costing to a stop the engine acted as if out of gas - hence no power steering). Got a tow home.
The starter turns the engine over with no clatter, banging, or clunks. No backfires or "Coughing". Same sound as of before, but won't catch and run under own power. (Still acts like no gas, but has half a tank) (battery still has a full charge - spark plugs still spark - took one out of engine while still connected to spark plug cable grounded to engine for testing. No overtly heavy gas smell or residue on plug or during test).
My friend who assisted in the exhaust repair says that it is not the Catalytic Converter being clogged (I believe it is). His suggestion is a faulty sensor somewhere else, maybe cam/crank sensor, maybe MAP sensor, maybe ignition switch, bad EGR or even a bad ASD relay. Don't want to be buying parts to no end on this, need other input to narrow down a direction.
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Last weekend, the car wouldn't start after sitting for a few hours. After about 20 minutes it finally started. It has started and ran fine up until today. Same thing, it was parked for a while and wouldn't start. Then it did start, ran horribly, then died when it was put into gear. Then it started and ran just fine, my friend moved the car, parked it and turned it off and of course it wouldn't start after that.
I've done a lot of work to this car myself, including entire tune up, fuel filter, cam AND crank sensors (notorious problems on these cars), ignition switch, oxygen sensors, several other things in the past year or so. My only hunch is that it might be the auto shut down relay, but I'm not with the car so I can't test that. We had fuel pressure at the test port the first time this happened, so I wasn't really thinking it could be a fuel pump issue, but with over 210,000 miles anything is possible. Also, it sometimes dies when the car comes to a stop with the A/C on...but this doesn't happen very often.
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My '96 Dakota SLT 6-cylinder pickup backfired and blew a hole in my muffler ... I've had it in three different shops on six occasions since and the thing still hiccups, backfires, stalls ... most of the electrical switches and sensors have been replaced ... right before it back fires, it feels like it is going to stall, then "POW" ... sometimes it continues to run fine for a little while after that ... then it happens again ... When it stalls it feels like it is running out of gas ... it is almost impossible to restart right away, but if I wait a few minutes, the starts right up ...
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We have a poorly maintained 2001 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L with 155,000 miles on it. Over the Christmas break, we left it untouched in the driveway for a month. After that it wouldn't start without being jumped off, and the oil light flickered when the car idled. We had the battery, alternator, and starter checked at a local shop; all of them checked out fine. Nevertheless, the car wouldn't start without being jumped off. It would click once, and then nothing. We also noticed it was overdue by 2,000 miles for an oil change, and thought this may be causing the oil light issue. Since the 2.7L Intrepids are notorious for engine sludge, we added a couple of ounces of Seafoam, drove about 15 miles, and then took it in for an oil change. Now it starts without a jump. So my question is Is there any way that oil sludge (and perhaps a weak starter?) is the issue?
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I have an ' 87 Caravan/mini ram van with the Mitsu 2.6 4 cylinder engine. It has 180k miles. Always ran great until now. It'll start right up (the first time) on a cold morning with no problems, but runs a little rougher than usual. Before the engine is warmed up on a cold day, needs to wait a little while before starting to drive it. Recently, I've been starting it and letting it idle for about 5-10 minutes. When I start driving it, normally I don't even get out of my driveway, it stalls and won't restart. It seems like the carb might be flooded, but not sure. Could this simply need a tune up? I haven't replaced the plugs yet since I've owned it, I've had it for only a year so far. The previous owner was very meticulous about maintenance.
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I have a 96 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.2L pickup that wont start. I have replaced fuses, starter, ignition switch, tumbler. it still wont run. i can craw under it with 2 screwdriver and start it by touching hot wire and trigger wire. I have hooked it to a diagnostics machine and it said idle air was bad and I replaced that too...
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1993 Dodge Ram 2500 .... Multiple symptoms... some times engine turns over but truck will not start. sometimes engine dies whether driving at slow or high speeds. Happens whether engine is cold or warm. After sitting a while, the truck starts and will run for several days. Has 40 lbs of fuel pressure, we've changed out the ignition switch, crank sensor, distributor cap, rotor, pickup, engine control module, crank shaft position sensor.This has been happening for three months, I've been towed in 4 times. When mechanic connects diagnostic tool to the ecm, the engine starts and runs fine. Diagnostic shows no data of previous problem.
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I have a 2002 dodge intrepid that wont crank over sometimes unless I take the key and keep moving from the start position to the off position ,then it finally engages. I have replaced the battery, but I thought if it was a starter issue, it would click more than once.
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I have 2004 Dodge Intrepid 3.5L with 153K miles. For the past tow months I am getting oil in the radiator but NO antifreeze in the oil. Oil level gets low but the transmission fluid is fine. No coolant smoke, No Oil smoke, Have been draining coolant, Passed emission 3-months ago, Gas mileage is fine @ 23MPG. I have to add about quart a month (1000?-miles). I have been using Mobile-1 synthetic since bought the car at 108K. Currently 153K miles on the engine. Two years ago water pump and timing belt was replaced. If it is the head gasket then why oil is fine and no coolant in the oil. It is Not transmission Fluid either.
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i have a 96 slt v8 dakota im trying to fix myself. it wont start. put new batt. new starter motor. it just clicks engine wont turn everything in truck is working but when i turn the key to start its just clicks and my radio losses power. so i took out radio and still wont start...
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I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid automatic v6. My battery light is lightup on the dash board so I figured my battery was dying due to loss of power in the vehicle, or the alternator going out. I took off the negative wire to the battery and the car continued to run, as Ive been told that by doing this, if the car dies then the alternator is bad. I checked the battery and it reads 14 volts, so I believe the battery is good? I do have a sound system in the car and have a 1500 watt amp connected, the previous owners also had a stereo system and however they rigged there's was totally a mess as the wires were all, just a mess. As of today, the car has died, and when we jumped it it did start up, but was not able to keep power, the dash lights would not come on, basically anything that had to do with electric stuff was not working? I did just get a tune up and oil change, new spark plugs and wires, and also it has been over heating.....
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I have a 98 Dodge Intrepid and it smokes when I pull out. I was told it may be the valve seals. Is this true? Could it be the rings? It doesnt seem to smoke when I go up hills just when I pull out.. Is there an easy fix?
What are some problems I can expect with this car? I have 107,000 miles and am wondering when can I expect the timing belt to fail? What are some things I may have to fix?
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I have a 1999 Dodge Intrepid 2.7 L DOHC that continues to run hot. I have replaced the thermostat, fans, relief value and have done a radiator flush.
After I have had these things done the car does fine for about a week then back to the same old crap. I can drive about 40 miles in the morning time nothing happens. In the afternoon about 20 miles then the temp gauge starts rising so I turn on my heater for about 5 minutes till it goes down then turn the ac back on for the next 20 miles home and does fine.
If I turn the car off for about 10 minutes or less then crank it back up the temp gauge jumps way up there I sit and let it idle till it goes back down on its own without the heater.
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I recieved a smog check and I fail one small problem. but what do this code stands for PO441?
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