Dodge Grand Caravan :: 1990 3.3L - Starter Draining Battery?
Dec 2, 2013
1990 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3L
Three weeks ago, I had the starter rebuilt locally by a shop I've used confidently for years, most of their business is rebuilds like this. Besides a substantial coating of oil on the starter which was no benefit to the contacts, the tech also found a broken insulator which presumably was the primary issue. I installed the starter and have had no problems since (three weeks).
Yesterday morning, the battery was dead - no click, no lights, no horn. I could be wrong, but I don't think the interior lights were left on overnight.
I put my 1 amp trickle charger on it for several hours and when I reconnected the battery, the horn sounded right, interior lights looked good....until I tried the starter. In an instant, I got the chattering clicky sound of a starter with inadequate power , then nothing, and the lights and horn were gone too.
After charging overnight -almost 24 hours now, that same scenario has repeated: first good horn and lights, then clicks from the starter, then very weak lights and horn.
Is this simply that the battery is down and needs more charge? Or could there be something wrong in the starter causing this rapid discharge? A few months ago the same electrical shop load tested the battery and it was surprisingly good considering its age. I don't want to put a new battery in the car if the starter is somehow damaging the battery. I do have another battery I can swap in, but for the same reason I'm reluctant to install that without some better idea of what's happening.
Does this point conclusively to the starter? Or is this clearly the battery? Is there some way to diagnose the starter without removing it? I'm sure the shop would fix any mistake, but I don't want to pull the starter again for no reason. The cable connector on the starter looks normal.
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I did a tune up on my 3.3L Dodge Grand Caravan only to find the engine is vibrating heavily. This tune up included a new coil pack, plugs and wires.
I did happen to notice a separate thing when looking at the Crankshaft Pulley that it seemed to be wobbling while the engine was running.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan with just over 50,000 miles on it. This summer It started having this issue where when I turned the key, all I got was a click, and then nothing. The starter wouldn't turn over, but all other electronics seemed to be working properly. If I continued to try turning the key (2 or 3 times) eventually the starter would engage and the car would start right up. Assuming a bad connection somewhere I cleaned the battery posts, and a couple other connections I could get to, and the problem seemed to go away. About a month later the same issue started up again, and I was able to fix it the same way.
About a month and a half ago, I went to start my car, turned the key, and NO click. After turning the key a couple times the car would start as before. Then the next time I tried to start the car I again got nothing. On the third try the starter turned over, but only a few times before it died (and it sounded like it was really struggling to turn over too). The fourth time I turned the key the car started right up. This new behavior continued for about a week and then I took it into the shop.
At the shop they first started by cleaning all the connections, which did nothing. Next they put in a new starter which also didn't fix the problem. On the off chance the new starter was bad, they tried a second new starter, and again the problem continued. Finally they pulled out the wiring harness and found 3 "Bad wires" which they replaced. The then also concluded that the bad wires were causes the starter to short out, and that is why the two new starters they tried didn't work. They gave me a new starter, and that in conjunction with the new wires seemed to fix the problem.
Now, every few weeks, I'll go to turn the key, and all I'll get is a click again. The second time i turn the key, however, the car will start right up. This issue maybe happens more when its cold in the morning, but it hasn't happened enough for me to be sure. The clicking issue doesn't bother me that much because the car always starts, but I'm worried that the problem will just get worse again. Did my mechanic actually fix the problem I had? Or am I going to need to take it back in to the shop in a couple of months and put another new starter in? Also, I have had my battery tested three times throughout all of this, and it always comes back fine.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan. I found a small leak in my fuel rail. Can I buy a repair kit for this or do I need to find a new fuel rail? If so where to find a rail for a van this old?
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I have a 2003 dodge grand caravan with about 111,000 miles on it. Overall it has been a reliable car. In the past month we had to replace the ECM because the computer died on the car. Now, very intermittently, while driving at about 60 mph the car will suddenly drop to 40 mph then shoot right back to where it was at 60. This only happens for about a second and then its fine.
Its quite startling but it has only happened to us 3 times in the past two weeks, so its very hard to replicate. There are no engine codes and it seems like the tachometer does not change during this sudden drop, although to be honest I wasn't paying that close attention to it when it happened.
Could it be related to the recent ECM replacement? The dealer "reprogrammed" the computer so I'm assuming all parts electrically have been checked.
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My van has quit me finally. It only has 98,000 original miles on it. Right now the car really smells like it is loading up and not properly burning fuel. Also a huge amount of white smoke is coming from the exhaust pipe. The oil pressure is good. could it be as simple as new plugs and plug wires, coil pack etc.
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1990 Dodge Cummins, 111,000 miles - does not charge, is not putting out. Installed new Chrysler alternator from NAPA and isolated field electronic regulator. Parts store (NAPA) checked the alt., said it is OK. Cleaned all ground/hot connections. Battery is 12.6 v. Have 12 v power at reg. and alt. Key "on" and both field pins hot (12v).
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1990 Cherokee 4 L str 6 cyl
after shutting my jeep down I ve heard liquid moving. I decided to find the source. it turns out that I was hearing the oil draining back into the pan.
I was under the jeep with my ear next to the pan, no doubt of source.
this lasted about 15- 30 seconds before stopping. the front of the jeep was raised about 6", as I had parked it that way.is this concerning?
I was recently going to change my valve/rocker arm cover gasket, but decided to wait because it did not seem to be leaking and I did not want to use the inexpensive cork fel pro gasket that I had bought, I decided to wait until I could afford the more expensive gasket.
I did notice thru my oil fill cap that there is a lot of crud under the cover and I am concerned that my oil return drains are partially clogged.how can I clean these drains when I do change the gasket? since it has been strongly recommended here that I do not disturb the crud I m not sure how I should approach this. could vaccuming the loose crud with a shop vac be okay?
ps. dropping the oil pan is not an option right now because of the extensive labor involved on this model and the expense of all the new seals and gaskets required. I ve bought 200 bucks worth of parts and fluids this month and it will be awhile before I can afford more.
right now I have brake shoes, tranny filter and fluid, above gasket, oil and oil and fuel filters waiting on me to work on, and other non mechanical things.
to summarize my questions...
1) does noisy oil drainage concern you?2)how can I clean oil drains?
a. can I pour kerosene thru to clean oil drains, and to flush oil pan, which I can t drop right now?
b. can I shop vac under the valve cover?
c. should I add sea foam to oil for a bit before changing?
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My service engine soon light came on and the guy at O'reilly's put the OBD-II on it and P1698 came up. This has something to do with the TCM not communicating with the BCM or some such thing. I have been searching all over the web for P1698 and it seems to be usually associated with dash lights and gages being intermittent. Our gages are intermittent but right now are working fine. They say they fix is to take the instrument cluster out and resolder the grounds to the main connector. That seems to get rid of the light and the P1698 code.
But if P1698 is that the TCM does not talk to the BCM, how does the cluster get into this?
I guess my real question is what do I do to get the light to go out and the code to go away? Resoldering the cluster just doesn't ring true with this code description, but on the other hand, the description is not much clear either.
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My 2005 Grand Caravan has a leak in the A/C under the dash. The mechanics say they will need to tear out the dash to get to it and it will cost $1000. As this car needs a couple of more things and I just repaired the battery and alternator, I don't want to put this money into it. Will anything seize up if I just let it go? It's August and summer will be over soon. Can I just deal with it or will this cause further problems?
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I have 1990 dodge caravan v6, i checked to see if i got power to the fuel pump and there no power going
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1990 Dodge Caravan ... I replaced belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley. The serpentine belt comes off when it rains.
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Have a 06 Grand Caravan 3.8L that suddenly quit and would start back up easily enough, but one had to keep foot on the gas to keep it going.
I pulled two codes:
P0123-throttle postion sensor 1 high
P0508-IAC valve sensor circuit low/undercurrent
So far I have removed the IAC and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner, cleaned throttle body out as well with the spray, installed new EGR since it got mangled trying to remove it for cleaning. Removed the TPS connector and with key on, took measurements and I am getting a reference voltage proper ( almost 5 volts). I then back probed the connector once it was plugged back in and again things checked out, the reference lead was varying between .7 and 4.7 volts as I manually moved the throttle plate.
I had switched out the IAC with a used one, from an engine that had been running before being parked, but it made no change.
Note: I have a new TPS but am holding off on changing it until I investigate whether or not it may have a clogged fuel filter causing it to stall at idle speed. Now if can just locate where it is..the sketchy diagrams in my Alldata program are useful.
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I had a VERY bad leak, to the point where I would fill it, an hour later it all leaked out. I had a mechanic work on it, and he rebuilt the PS pump, BUT the pulley was cracked, they DON'T make that size anymore. He put a bigger one on, only to find out, it was rubbing on my brake lines so I couldn't drive it! SO I had another grease monkey work on it, went through a few new pulley's FINALLY found one! BUT went through 4 Serpentine belts!!
After 3 months with NO VEHICLE, we finally got it all back together. BUT now it is not all lining up we couldn't tell until we had the belt on. it is about a 1/4 of an inch to much to the right.
I'm thinking maybe washers or spacers would work?
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this has been an outstanding van, quite reliable. it has about 115,000 miles on it. Recently, I've noticed that the transmission makes a 'tapping' noise when it shifts or downshifts. every gear has that same slight 'tap'. the tranny shifts fine, smooth, but this sound worries me a bit. any chance this could be a u-joint issue?
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I just bought a 2008 BMW 535ia. I owned it four days before the battery died. I went back to the dealer I bought from and he told me that it was my fault -- I didn't drive the car enough. Said due to "advanced electronics" car has to be driven for at least 30 minutes each and every time other wise battery will continue to drain.
I work at home so I only drive the car three or four days a week,mostly for a 10 minute trip to town. I'm afraid to take this car anywhere. For me, luxury now means having a car that you know will start.
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I own an 89 jag xj6. Something seems to be draining the battery. It can start fine in the evening but by the next morning its dead. If it sets too long its completely dead.. nothing... The alternator appears to be charging, after running it awhile it will start again. I put a new battery in it several months ago. The former owner said something about it maybe being a switch of some sort that has something to do with the climate control system?
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