Dodge - Durango :: 2002 - AC Only Blows Cool Air When Going Down Road At 25+ Mph
Jun 25, 2015
I have an '02 Durango, and the AC only blows cool air when going down the road at 25+ mph. I thought I'd try putting some refrigerant in, but when I hooked up the gauge on the can it buried the needle, so it's over 100 psi on the low side, and the pressure was high enough that no refrigerant would flow in. Up where the lines attach to the expansion valve, when idling the in line is HOT - like too hot to keep your hand on and the out line is about air temp. The guy at the parts store thought the expansion valve was bad. As stated, AC works okay (but not excellently) while going down the road.
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I have a 2002 Dodge Durango and the rear passenger air blows cold only - was fine last winter. Neither the passenger or the driver controls will get warm air to the rear via the overhead vents. Warm air comes out under the front seats to the rear only.
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Ok, so, my heater works, I can feel the hot air coming out of the vents, but no matter what setting I use, I can't get the blower to kick on. The hot air just trickles out. What might be wrong, and how much, or how hard it would be to fix? The weird part is that sometimes the fan will work.
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My 2002 durango when put in reverse makes clunk noise and I went under truck it looks like its coming from transfer case by rear shaft....
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Truck is 2002 2WD 4.7L Durango and around 164K
I am looking to replace the intermediate steering shaft as it making noise it seems they are common to this problem due to a weak U joint. The problem I have is I can track the correct part. Here is what I have research so far:
Have found this one 55351246AA but it says it will not fit.
Also found the Dorman 425-257 but it says is for 4WD but it reference to this OE part numbers: 55351208AA, 55351208AB, 55351246AA
Have try the Dodge parts website but that is even more confusing. I have already replace the ball joints, wheel bearings and inner and outer tie rods and this is the last part that needs to be replaced if I can track the correct one.
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2002 Dodge Durango 6.9 R/T... I had my bearings replaced 3 weeks ago. And about 1 week later after 40 mins in stop and go traffic I started smelling this hot metal and rubber smell. Then my breaks got really tight when I pressed the paddle. Is this related to having my bearings replaced, what could be causing this to happen every time I am in the car 40 mins or more. It's happened 4 times now and the first time it started smoking. I'm really nervous to drive my truck in stop and go traffic.
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I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan and I am having an issue with it running a touch rich and not getting the gas mileage it should. Here we go, in March the van started to start hard and blow black smoke out of the exhaust. After a 120 mile drive back home, one morning it would not start. I pulled to a mechanic who went out and started it without a problem, he said it was flooded out and probably needed to change plugs and wires. I took it home and changed the wires and plugs. Much to my surprise, no change. The van started hard and then ran really rough with no power for a while and was polluting the air with black smoke. The average mileage was around 12 mpg. I went to the next step and changed the coil pack. No change. Finally took it in and the mechanic changed the O2 sensor and the cat converter. The can runs better but still gets around 16 mpg and still blows a small amount of black smoke. Oh yeah, the air filter is clear and there are no trouble codes either. I am thinking it could be a something with the fuel delivery system maybe?
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I have a 2002 Durango 2WD about 115000 miles. I have steering noise and some play. I can hear the noise when the truck is park and move the wheel from side to side about an inch. I had the upper ball joints replace, outer tie-rods and wheel bearings some time ago. Could this be the gear box. I now this trucks are notorious for ball joint problems if it says Durango in the back yeah your ball joins are bad. At the moment I am parking the truck and have it check over the weekend.
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1) no cool air at all from AC
2) low pressure side shows 0 even after adding some refrigerant
3) ac compressor engages. I can hear a slight load on the motor when I push the ac button
4) when pressing the ac button the fans don't automatically come on. They should come on right
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I have an '08 350 with less than 82K miles. My problem is the AC. The vents on the passenger side blow out cool air and all the vents on the driver's side blow out hot air. Even the vents in the backseat, the left one blows hot air and the right one blows cool (my son informed me of this as I hadn't even checked). As you can imagine it's very uncomfortable driving around in this CA heat every day, especially since the driver side vent in the center cannot be completely closed. What could cause this?
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I have a 2004 Buick Century with about 48,000 miles on it..the A/C blows very cool but not cold,it should be colder..i also have a 2003 century that blows icy cold.. I hooked up a cheap gauge to the low side service port on both vehicles and got about the same reading. Other then being slightly low on refrigerant is their anything else that would cause the A/C to blow cool air rather then icy cold? The compressors seem to kick on the same on both vehicles. I really don't want to add refrigerant if it's not low...
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I've read that this is a somewhat common problem but can't find the part number to what I need. My heat stopped working and won't change blowing any temp only blows slightly chilled air. I found that its suppose to be a part in the dash that controls this thru the climatronic head unit some lever that isn't getting pushed over correctly dew to a worn out part. What part I need to get my heat back working.
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My 94 is on the mend , since I got it a few months ago. The air conditioner blows cool , just not cold . It's still a R12 system, and I got the fittings/R134a/oil charge/and mineral spirits to do the change over, but hesitated when I found someone locally had a few cans of R12 for sale . My thought is to buy 1 can , and see if a shot would make the difference before going through the procedure to flush the 12 out and go with the 134a .
My biggest problem is lack of a gauge set , but a guy from CraigsList here says he walk me through the change over for 60 , and betting he'd have the hoses for a 12 system to hit that if that's how I decide to try first. I just wonder why , since I got it , the "cool" it does blow hasn't changed so I am betting it isn't leaking , but the jackleg I got it from was one that IMHO wouldn't know how to open the hood , or what to leave alone, I am just at that point of impasse, as to which way to go ...
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I took the dive into a new heater core, as the heater was not getting hot. These are the things I did while on my adventure.
1. Before reinstalling the hoses, I blew thru them to make sure of no clogs...water flew out the other hose..no problem..no clog.
2. inspected mix door not cracked or broken...no problem
3.actuator opens and closes ok, I assume, I can hear the motor run and the door thump closed...no problem
4. water and anti freeze level good....no problem
Start vehicle,let warm up, turn on heat.....No Heat...
5. check hoses at core, one is hot ,the other is not....Problem...
1997 f150 4x4 ...
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My 2007 Prius air conditioner blows mainly warm rather than cool air. I took it in for repairs and they replaced the high pressure hose but it is still not cooling the car. The dealer has had the car for 2 weeks trying to determine what the problem is. They tell me it should be blowing 42 degrees but is only blowing 62 degrees. They think that it might be the invertor that cost $1,000.
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My air conditioner blows cool air (not cold) when I am driving, and when I am stopped, it is warm air. I had to replace the sensor last year. Could it be that again, or something else? Chevy Tahoe 2003 ..
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So my heater works when I'm rolling down the highway. When I'm at about 20 mph or less it blows cool air. Also when it's just idling it blows cool air. What I might have an issue with?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Durango, 4.7 V-8, 76,000 miles. When I come to a stop I smell oil that comes thru the air vents. It goes away when I go down the road. I have heard this discussed before on the show but cannot remember what it was.
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I have a 03 Dodge Durango whose ignition switch has gone to pot. Key won't turn at all. Got a new switch to replace it (which will be a totally easy swap out) BUT, the key won't turn so I can't unlock the latch/push pin/button to release it.
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I have a 2001 Dodge Durango, I just changed the catalytic converter, the truck acts like it isn't getting any gas, when I drive it above 65 mph for 20 miles, but I can pull to the side of the road for a min or two and go again, it keeps doing this. I can drive it all day in town no problem. Comp. says misfire on 1,2,,&4.
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I have a 2005 Durango, ~142k miles. The end of May, I had to get the transmission solenoid replaced, which may not be relevant. About 10 days later, the car started overheating when idling. There was a crack on the radiator neck, by the cap, and I had to get the radiator replaced, and the thermostat. The shop said the fan was wobbling, and they replaced the fan clutch as well. The fan was a lot louder than it had been, the mechanic said he had put in a higher performance fan in and maybe that was why, and offered to put in a lower performance one if I wanted. I declined.
Six weeks later, it started overheating while idling again. I brought it back, and the water pump was out. By now I was checking the temperature gauge constantly when idling, and it never quite hit the center until suddenly after 4 weeks, then it suddenly started overheating while idling again. I brought it back again, and they couldn't find any problem except he said the radiator was about a cup low, and maybe there had been an air bubble.
I've been constantly checking the temperature gauge since, and it once again never quite hit middle until 2 days ago, and now suddenly it's overheating when idling. I checked the coolant level after it had been sitting for a couple hours (and I had only driven it for about 10 minutes so far this morning, before that. I'm afraid there is a blown head gasket or something, but if so, why would it run so well for an extended period, and then suddenly start overheating again, twice now? They haven't done a compression check.
In case this is relevant, every few days the car will just stall out when coming to a stop, and sometimes the idle seems rough.
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