Dodge - Durango :: 2001 - Suddenly Started To Pull To The Left
May 19, 2012
I have a 2002 Dodge Durango with puzzling brake issues. I noticed while driving that the car suddenly started to pull to the left. When i got to my destination the front drivers side tire started to smoke and unleash un ungodly smell. I let it cool, removed the tire and checked the brakes. Everything seemed to be fine. I also checked the calipers, also fine. I put the tire back on and it drove fine for a month or so.
The next time i was driving and the same thing happened. now it was the passengers side. Again i checked everything and it was fine. It was time for new brakes so I replaced them. Fine for another month or so. It is now happening on the drivers side again. I appologize if this is posted twice now, but i couldn't find it or see any responses.
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I have a 2001 Durango. My one year old battery suddenly began to lose its charge last month if the car sat for two or more days. A local repair shop determined the alternator was okay, but the battery was bad. The parts store agreed and replaced the battery under warranty.
A week later the new battery also went dead after the car had been parked for two days. I then took it to a Dodge dealership that kept it for over a week, but couldn’t find anything wrong. Even after being parked over the weekend, it started right up for them.
After getting it back home I drove it for three days. I parked it for two days, and the third morning the battery was completely dead. After charging with a trickle charger for a couple of hours the car started fine.
I bought the car new and have kept up on all the maintenance. It’s parked in my driveway the same way for over seven years with the doors locked. What’s going on?
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Early this morning, after a night of freezing rain, i noticed the rear wipers running even though the car/ignition/wiper switch were all off. truck had not been started in over 24 hours. was unable to stop motor from running except only by disconnecting battery lead terminal. on trip to local mechanic hours later, motor would not stop, except when I turned-on front wipers -- then the rear motor would immediately stop at whatever position wiper blade was in. motor would not park blade. only tripping the front (separate) wiper switch would interrupt power to rear wiper motor. At mechanic, problem would not reappear. learned later that similarly, the front wipers would not quit two weeks earlier. at that time, the front wipers eventually stopped some time after ignition was killed and vehicle sat idle with all switches off. Common thread is problem appears during rain storms and does not manifest during dry times.
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I have a 2001 Dodge Durango with the 4.7 liter V8. I recently changed the spark plugs and it ran for a few days misfiring periodically. Then overnight after a good day of running it would not start. The engine will rotate but not fire. I changed the individual coils but only to get the same result. I think that I may have the wrong spark plugs but where to go next.
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I just purchased a 2001 Dodge Durango 4wd with 140,xxx miles on it. My issue is that whenever I accelerate it hesistates and if I am going at a high speed like on the interstate or expressway it sometimes slows down (drastically) if I'm going uphill. What can be causing this?
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My 2001 Dodge Durango has an intermittent clunking that seems to correlate to the wheels rotating and happens: at low speeds (0-5 mph)... however, it has gotten worse if I drive continuously for an hour and then stop. It will happen between 0 and 30mph and be much louder.
When the clunking happens, the steering wheel also rotates to to the right and the car will shake a little.
If I had to guess, the clunking is coming from the front left but really could be anywhere.
I have taken it to FireStone multiple times, they have test driven it all over... it never seems to happen when they have it.
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A few weeks ago while driving to work, my gas light came on and then started randomly blinking and dinging. At the same time, my headlights and dash illumination lights started blinking.
I filled my gas tank and the gas light turned off, but the headlight blinking still remains. When they blink, I can hear a relay? clicking to the left of the steering column.
It seems to take about ten minutes of driving for the problem to develop and then the lights blink every few seconds.
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I have a 2000 Dakota 5.9 truck that has all of a sudden started to idle rough, loses power over 3000rpm or any kind of reasonable acceleration , with a big sucking sound from the throttle body ( no leaks), seems like it is not getting fuel. Someone mentioned it maybe the "MAP" sensor.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Prius with ~250,000 miles. Yesterday I was driving and the vehicle started to "stutter" and the warning lights came on. My ScanGauge indicated code P3125. I drove normally for 2-3 miles and parked for a bit. When I returned, I was able to start up and drive home with no problems (about 20 miles of highway and stop & go traffic), and drove most of this morning, but around noon it happened again and this time the vehicle would hardly move at all. It had no reverse and I had to push it out of the parking spot. I managed to limp home and park it.
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I am having some brake problems. They started grinding really hard suddenly one night while I was at work (delivery) on the passenger side and having recently replaced my driver's side wheel bearing I thought maybe something was wrong with the other one (seeing as how they have the same number of miles on them) that was causing my brakes to get wonky.
Drove to my Dad's to enlist his expertise. When we got it all taken apart the first thing we noticed was the rim of the rotor was all eaten up. Then we got the pads off and saw they were completely worn all the way down to the metal only on the outer edge, so they are wearing at a diagonal. Same for the back and front pad but the front pad was worse.
We thought the caliper was sticking and causing that since it was hard to move before taking it off, so we replaced and regreased the pins, and put on a new rotor and break pads.
Decided to take the other side apart to see what it was doing. Same story just not all the way through the pad yet but quickly heading that way. However the caliper pins on this side were easy to compress and quick to pop back so things were starting to stink like that wasn't our problem on the other side either.
We had a very tough time getting the caliper, although fully compressed, back on with the new brake pads. It was a struggle to make it work, but we did and then I made my drive back with less than optimal braking power which was probably not a great idea (3 hour drive.)
My dad had a sleepless night that night because nothing added up for him as to why the pads were wearing that way and having so many problems. In the morning he got online on Advanced Auto's website where we bought all our parts and then compared their brake pads to ones on OReiley's website. Well OReiley's offers two different styles of brake pad one which has a tab on the outer edge and one that doesn't. The pads that came on my car when I got it didn't have this tab and the ones Advanced auto sold us which I put on my car the time before I started having all these problems, did have a tab.
We are pretty sure this tab is causing the brake pad to sit in the caliper at an angle because the opening in the caliper is not big enough for the tab to clear it. This is why my pads are wearing at an angle, and only the outer edge of the pad is making contact with the rotor. I really only had like 20% braking power!
I still had the brake pads that came on the car when I got it so I popped those on with the old rotors before I went to work tonight (they still have a ton of pad left and its a long story why I replaced them) it's not ideal but I have WAY better braking now and its a temporary fix until I get this sorted out.
Why Advanced auto sold me these pads that don't work with my car TWICE or what I was supposed to know before going in to buy brake pads? Generally I trust that when I got in there and tell them what my car is and ask for a part they will give me the part that works with my car. And one time being wrong is fine but twice at two different stores?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Durango, 4.7 V-8, 76,000 miles. When I come to a stop I smell oil that comes thru the air vents. It goes away when I go down the road. I have heard this discussed before on the show but cannot remember what it was.
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I have a 03 Dodge Durango whose ignition switch has gone to pot. Key won't turn at all. Got a new switch to replace it (which will be a totally easy swap out) BUT, the key won't turn so I can't unlock the latch/push pin/button to release it.
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I have a 2001 Dodge Durango, I just changed the catalytic converter, the truck acts like it isn't getting any gas, when I drive it above 65 mph for 20 miles, but I can pull to the side of the road for a min or two and go again, it keeps doing this. I can drive it all day in town no problem. Comp. says misfire on 1,2,,&4.
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I have a 2005 Durango, ~142k miles. The end of May, I had to get the transmission solenoid replaced, which may not be relevant. About 10 days later, the car started overheating when idling. There was a crack on the radiator neck, by the cap, and I had to get the radiator replaced, and the thermostat. The shop said the fan was wobbling, and they replaced the fan clutch as well. The fan was a lot louder than it had been, the mechanic said he had put in a higher performance fan in and maybe that was why, and offered to put in a lower performance one if I wanted. I declined.
Six weeks later, it started overheating while idling again. I brought it back, and the water pump was out. By now I was checking the temperature gauge constantly when idling, and it never quite hit the center until suddenly after 4 weeks, then it suddenly started overheating while idling again. I brought it back again, and they couldn't find any problem except he said the radiator was about a cup low, and maybe there had been an air bubble.
I've been constantly checking the temperature gauge since, and it once again never quite hit middle until 2 days ago, and now suddenly it's overheating when idling. I checked the coolant level after it had been sitting for a couple hours (and I had only driven it for about 10 minutes so far this morning, before that. I'm afraid there is a blown head gasket or something, but if so, why would it run so well for an extended period, and then suddenly start overheating again, twice now? They haven't done a compression check.
In case this is relevant, every few days the car will just stall out when coming to a stop, and sometimes the idle seems rough.
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I have a 2005 Durango and it just dies on me and when I shut it off it won't start. It turns over but nothing else, Just started today. Starter? Crank sensor?
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I have an intermittent squealing that comes from behind the radio. The fan must be turned on and it does not matter if the AC is on or off. At 30 mph or when you turn the fan off the noise stops. I have replaced the fan, also the fan is located under the dash on the right hand, side away from the noise. As I said this an intermittent problem so it is hard to find. This problem is on a 2001 Dodge Durango with 150,000 miles.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Durango SLT 5.2L (318) 4x4. My problem is that there is no air or heat coming from any of my vents. It started out where there was no air coming out on the lowest setting. Then a few days later, no air from the next highest setting. It then continued to where absolutely no air coming from any setting. I don't know where to even start looking.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Durango, 8cyl., auto transmission with about 211K miles on it.For several months now the car has problems shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. It goes from first to second without trouble, but to get to third I have to over-rev the engine and then let off the gas and then give it a small bit of extra juice for it to catch the third gear. In the past it seemed to happen only AFTER the engine got hot. Interestingly for the last couple of months it shifted just fine, maybe because it's very cold outside.
Today, the transmission gave me a ton of problems and I was afraid it would give up on me before getting home. It just wouldn't shift into 3rd gear at all. I limped the last 5 miles home in 2nd gear. Checked fluid and that was fine. I added a 1/2 quart. After a few hours I drove the car for short distances at various speeds to force the transmission to shift. At first it seemed to be OK again, but as soon as the engine got hot I ran into the same problem again.
I last changed the fluid 3K miles ago, but before that I drove it for 120K miles without a change. What to look for now or is this a job for a specialist? A neighbor of mine suggested to pour a cup of acetone down the transmission and this would "clean up" and cut through the gum and varnish. I am not so sure this is a good idea, but wonder what it could do to seals and other rubber-type things inside the transmission.
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I have a 1999 Dodge Durango, 8 cylinders, with 200K miles. For the last 6 months the transmission is sometimes hesitating shifting from 2nd to 3rd. I have to play with the gas at around 25-2700 rpm before it smoothly shifts into 3rd. Downhill or when accelerating slow it shifts OK. It also seems to shift much better when the weather is cooler and the engine is not hot.
I changed the transmission fluid, filter and speed sensor, but it did not work. While it does not seem like an emergency I like to see what I can do next to fix this problem before it gets worse. What else I should look at?
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Ok, so, my heater works, I can feel the hot air coming out of the vents, but no matter what setting I use, I can't get the blower to kick on. The hot air just trickles out. What might be wrong, and how much, or how hard it would be to fix? The weird part is that sometimes the fan will work.
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Our 2006 Dodge Durango (94000 miles, V8 5,7 l Hemi) shutters when you're letting of the gas pedal. Occasional the car shuts off, we notice it by the power steering not working, while driving down the road, mostly when the engine is still cold. We noticed that the AC won't turn on unless the car has been driving for a while.Also the console lights start flickering and the check engine light comes on. The dealership hooked it up to the computer but couldn't figure out what it going on or why the check engine light is coming on.
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