Dodge - Durango :: 2001 - Battery Suddenly Began To Lose Its Charge
May 26, 2014
I have a 2001 Durango. My one year old battery suddenly began to lose its charge last month if the car sat for two or more days. A local repair shop determined the alternator was okay, but the battery was bad. The parts store agreed and replaced the battery under warranty.
A week later the new battery also went dead after the car had been parked for two days. I then took it to a Dodge dealership that kept it for over a week, but couldn’t find anything wrong. Even after being parked over the weekend, it started right up for them.
After getting it back home I drove it for three days. I parked it for two days, and the third morning the battery was completely dead. After charging with a trickle charger for a couple of hours the car started fine.
I bought the car new and have kept up on all the maintenance. It’s parked in my driveway the same way for over seven years with the doors locked. What’s going on?
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I have a 2002 Dodge Durango with puzzling brake issues. I noticed while driving that the car suddenly started to pull to the left. When i got to my destination the front drivers side tire started to smoke and unleash un ungodly smell. I let it cool, removed the tire and checked the brakes. Everything seemed to be fine. I also checked the calipers, also fine. I put the tire back on and it drove fine for a month or so.
The next time i was driving and the same thing happened. now it was the passengers side. Again i checked everything and it was fine. It was time for new brakes so I replaced them. Fine for another month or so. It is now happening on the drivers side again. I appologize if this is posted twice now, but i couldn't find it or see any responses.
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1990 Dodge Cummins, 111,000 miles - does not charge, is not putting out. Installed new Chrysler alternator from NAPA and isolated field electronic regulator. Parts store (NAPA) checked the alt., said it is OK. Cleaned all ground/hot connections. Battery is 12.6 v. Have 12 v power at reg. and alt. Key "on" and both field pins hot (12v).
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Its not my car (its my father in laws). The other day his 05 prius (170k miles) shut off while he was driving. He pushed it home and I sent him a link on how to check the 12v battery. He said it showed it was low so he used his golf cart battery to go and take it for a test drive to see if that fixed the problem. In the drive way at idle his hybrid battery charge went up half way but when he went to drive it he got 1/8th of a mile down the road and it dropped to 0 then the car shut off again. He said the display says something about the battery (I haven't been over to look at the car).
They are sure its the hybrid battery, but if it was me I'd go to the dealer and find out for sure. My husbands aunt had her hybrid battery go out and hers did other things, like go into turtle mode and a/c blew hot. I think her inverter pump went out and she kept driving it till the battery got messed up, but anyway...What does my father in laws symptoms sound like? Is there any extra at home testing that can be done?
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We have a 2001 E320 4-Matic. Recently, it has developed a serious problem. Every now and then, when I come to a stop (e.g., at a red light), the car would shake/vibrate significantly. Even more importantly, the car seems to lose acceleration suddenly and unpredictably (not necessarily correlated with vibration at the stop). The latter problem goes away "for the moment" by switching off the engine and then restarting it. The Check Engine light has come on as well. The codes that are diagnosed are P2001, P2003, P200F, P2082, P2050, P20151, P2055, and P2053.
While there are several issues with the car, I am most concerned now with the two issues I highlighted above - sudden loss of acceleration and the vibration while stopped (both happening unpredictably). I took the car to two mechanics. The two mechanics seem to sharply differ on how to resolve the "sudden and unpredictable loss of acceleration" issue. One mechanic (Mercedes dealer) attributes the problem to issues with EGR valve and claims replacing that will fix the problem. The other mechanic attributes the problem to the Catalytic Converter which he says is broken and is causing sudden loss of acceleration (and yes, there was a rattle some time ago). The second mechanic does not disagree that the EGR valve (and the secondary air injection system) has issues but he says it is the Catalytic Converter which is causing the core problem of sudden loss of acceleration (and yes, there was a rattle some time ago).
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Early this morning, after a night of freezing rain, i noticed the rear wipers running even though the car/ignition/wiper switch were all off. truck had not been started in over 24 hours. was unable to stop motor from running except only by disconnecting battery lead terminal. on trip to local mechanic hours later, motor would not stop, except when I turned-on front wipers -- then the rear motor would immediately stop at whatever position wiper blade was in. motor would not park blade. only tripping the front (separate) wiper switch would interrupt power to rear wiper motor. At mechanic, problem would not reappear. learned later that similarly, the front wipers would not quit two weeks earlier. at that time, the front wipers eventually stopped some time after ignition was killed and vehicle sat idle with all switches off. Common thread is problem appears during rain storms and does not manifest during dry times.
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My 2001 Dodge Durango has an intermittent clunking that seems to correlate to the wheels rotating and happens: at low speeds (0-5 mph)... however, it has gotten worse if I drive continuously for an hour and then stop. It will happen between 0 and 30mph and be much louder.
When the clunking happens, the steering wheel also rotates to to the right and the car will shake a little.
If I had to guess, the clunking is coming from the front left but really could be anywhere.
I have taken it to FireStone multiple times, they have test driven it all over... it never seems to happen when they have it.
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My Snapper mower has a 11.5 hp B&S OHV engine that was filled with 5W20 oil for storage over the winter to enable me to start it occasionally in the cold weather to keep the fuel system from gumming up. Today I fired it up and decided to cut the yard but after 10 minutes the engine began to smoke and lose power, eventually stalling. The oil level was OK and after leaving it to cool a few minutes I checked the plug and it was loaded with oil so I changed it and the engine started but smoked. I drove it to my shop and adjusted the valves and drained the oil which ran out like water. After filling with HD 30 oil it started on the first pull and I finished mowing the yard, about half an hour, with no problem.
The light oil was apparently too thin for the air cooled engine and B&S does specify 30 weight when the temperature is above 40*. Hopefully there was no damage done to the engine. I will be much more careful about the oil viscosity from now on.
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I have noticed a mid-pitched humming noise in my '02. I first noticed it about a week after getting four new tires put on it. It is speed dependent, and is most noticeable at about 35 mph.
Somehow I have gotten it in my head that the car might be stuck in "battery charge" mode. I can't tell easily because my car has a permanent power steering problem so I don't have the charge/power car diagram on my dash. I can still feel a difference when I shift into "B" when going downhill.
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Coming home from the coast last night, my car started to hiccup and lose power. I had to pull over to the side of the road as no matter how much throttle I applied the car kept losing speed. The car was acting like it wasn't getting any fuel. Once stopped on the side of the road I revved the engine for about a minute and it picked back up. I drove the remaining forty miles home without further incident. Went out today to drive to the car and my car won't start. It will turn over, but will not start... again feels like it's not getting any fuel.
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I bought this truck new. A few years ago while driving to work my headlights began to flicker. The problem became intermittent and didn't seem to affect my fog or high beam lights, just low beam. That night I tried to find the loose connection with no luck. The truck had 35000 on it then. To play it safe I went ahead and replaced the light switch. The next day the problem went away but came back about a year later and again the lights would flicker then stay on for a while and start again. The problem would disappear for a day or two and start again. I put this truck into two Dodge dealerships and they couldn't find anything. The problem went away for about three weeks and came back. This time I put the truck into a different non-Dodge repair place and after three days they couldn't find anything after pulling various connections apart but said the likely cause is probably one of two electronic parts.
One was about $300 and the other was just over $500 and they were nonrefundable because they were electronics. I went ahead and went the cheap way. After a little more then a year I noticed my headlights went out for about two seconds and came back on. It didn't do it anymore that night. Then about a week ago I got about a mile from my house going to work my headlights started flashing as if they were sending "morse code" in 5-10 second bursts. Again, hi beam and white fog lights are unaffected. I've since parked it. I've looked to see if there were any service bulletins, recalls, etc and found nothing. I'm finding it really hard to believe that my truck is the only one doing this.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Durango, 4.7 V-8, 76,000 miles. When I come to a stop I smell oil that comes thru the air vents. It goes away when I go down the road. I have heard this discussed before on the show but cannot remember what it was.
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I have a 03 Dodge Durango whose ignition switch has gone to pot. Key won't turn at all. Got a new switch to replace it (which will be a totally easy swap out) BUT, the key won't turn so I can't unlock the latch/push pin/button to release it.
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I have a 2001 Dodge Durango, I just changed the catalytic converter, the truck acts like it isn't getting any gas, when I drive it above 65 mph for 20 miles, but I can pull to the side of the road for a min or two and go again, it keeps doing this. I can drive it all day in town no problem. Comp. says misfire on 1,2,,&4.
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Our 2006 Chevy Tahoe will at times while running the speed limit (or slightly above) will suddenly without warning lose power. All the gauges remain in good ranges. This will happen without warning and not on a regular basis - sometimes going six months without happening and then happen three times within thirty minutes. The stability system warning message comes on as does the check engine light. Also the traction control warning light comes on. We can pull to the side of the road, turn the engine off for a few seconds and then it will start up again and run well with only the check engine light on. When this happens, the rpms will drop and go under 1500 and the engine will still be running, just without power.
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I have a 2005 Durango, ~142k miles. The end of May, I had to get the transmission solenoid replaced, which may not be relevant. About 10 days later, the car started overheating when idling. There was a crack on the radiator neck, by the cap, and I had to get the radiator replaced, and the thermostat. The shop said the fan was wobbling, and they replaced the fan clutch as well. The fan was a lot louder than it had been, the mechanic said he had put in a higher performance fan in and maybe that was why, and offered to put in a lower performance one if I wanted. I declined.
Six weeks later, it started overheating while idling again. I brought it back, and the water pump was out. By now I was checking the temperature gauge constantly when idling, and it never quite hit the center until suddenly after 4 weeks, then it suddenly started overheating while idling again. I brought it back again, and they couldn't find any problem except he said the radiator was about a cup low, and maybe there had been an air bubble.
I've been constantly checking the temperature gauge since, and it once again never quite hit middle until 2 days ago, and now suddenly it's overheating when idling. I checked the coolant level after it had been sitting for a couple hours (and I had only driven it for about 10 minutes so far this morning, before that. I'm afraid there is a blown head gasket or something, but if so, why would it run so well for an extended period, and then suddenly start overheating again, twice now? They haven't done a compression check.
In case this is relevant, every few days the car will just stall out when coming to a stop, and sometimes the idle seems rough.
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I have a 2005 Durango and it just dies on me and when I shut it off it won't start. It turns over but nothing else, Just started today. Starter? Crank sensor?
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I have an intermittent squealing that comes from behind the radio. The fan must be turned on and it does not matter if the AC is on or off. At 30 mph or when you turn the fan off the noise stops. I have replaced the fan, also the fan is located under the dash on the right hand, side away from the noise. As I said this an intermittent problem so it is hard to find. This problem is on a 2001 Dodge Durango with 150,000 miles.
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Driving on a paved road(some potholes but nothing bad) came to stop sign. After waiting for trafffic to clear, made right turn onto state highway truck began to pull to left, at first I thought i had a flat tire but every thing looked okay. Drove two miles to home, if let the steering wheel go, the truck would change lanes in about 25 feet...
2002 ford crew cab 4x4 7.3 power stroke 20k on Michelin.
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