I have a 2002 Dakota 5.9l r/t. Always started and ran fine. It sat most of the winter approx 2 months. Now will not start but cranks/turns. Has new battery, newer full tune up and tried starting fluid.
View 2 Replies97 Dodge Dakota Sport V8. Has spark, turns over, won't fire.
View 1 RepliesMy 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermitent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air in leakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota. After a bit of freeway diving and everything is all warmed up the truck makes a rubbing/grinding/groaning noise, but only during sharp turns. Once I straighten the wheels back out the nose goes away. The noise doesn't exist when it's cold though.
View 11 RepliesMy 2003 dodge dakota with 6cyl fi stalls while doing 3 point turns or backing into parking spots. It also recently has a new problem. If I drive the truck for only a few minutes and turn it off I have a hard time getting it started again. It sounds like it wants to start but just barely can't.
View 1 RepliesMy dad has a 2001 Dodge Dakota extended cab with a 3.9L v6 (standard transmission). It will start and run for a while and it will die, if you turn the key it will start up again but will eventually die. He has changed the spark plugs & wires, the distributor cap & rotor, the MAP sensor, and the throttle valve sensor. It still does the same thing.
View 1 RepliesSo, my oil light comes on after startup like usual then shuts off. Anywhere from 2-5 minutes of the vehicle running light comes back on and does not shut off unless I restart the vehicle. Have changed oil pressure switch and oil pressure is reading in the normal range..
05 dakota with 175000 kilometres
Every time it rains and I forget and leave the truck outside instead of inside the garage, it will not start. It is a 2001 Dodge Dakota pickup truck. It tries to start but will not fire. I have to sit around and wait for a few dry days and full sun - which is hard to find around here other than August and September. I have had it towed to several different mechanics for review. They have all done the same thing - can't find anything wrong so they leave it sit around the lot for two or three weeks until the sun shines then charge me a hundred bucks or so for their diagnostic time and a jump start. Every once in a while out of shear frustration, I have it towed to a new mechanic or one of the previous ones but still get the same results. Does fine in the winter with snow, but it has even done it on occasion when going through a car wash - which I know longer do as I am too old to be pushing a pickup out of a car wash.
View 3 RepliesI have a 89 dodge dakota and it starts sometimes and other times it don't start at all. When it does start and runs for a few min it will randomly die and when I try to start it after it dies it wont start back up. Me and my dad just fixed the starter relay yesterday and it started every time after that, now today it wont start. New coil, fuel pump, and fuel filter are new.
View 5 Repliesi have a 96 slt v8 dakota im trying to fix myself. it wont start. put new batt. new starter motor. it just clicks engine wont turn everything in truck is working but when i turn the key to start its just clicks and my radio losses power. so i took out radio and still wont start...
View 2 RepliesI've got a '93 Dakota that wouldn't start this morning after a cold snap, it used to fit just fine in any temp. It's cranking strong, can smell gas, and it's getting spark (used an inline tester). Battery had a full charge. Lay night the windchill got down to -40 Fahrenheit.
View 4 RepliesThis is an ongoing problem that has lasted for several weeks now -- I’m completely flummoxed and at a loss. It goes something like this:
My truck (2000 Dodge Dakota, 2.5L, 5-speed) has developed -- for lack of a better term -- a high-pitched whining squeal, which only occurs after I put it in gear and actually start moving (if I leave it idling in neutral, when starting it after letting it sit overnight, the sound usually does not appear at all). After about three or four minutes of driving time, the sound will show up, but there’s an odd twist: the sound is most apparent, and really loud, when the truck is at idle, such as when at a stop sign or traffic signal; when I put it in gear and take off, the noise will drop in pitch and, depending on how hard I’m pressing on the accelerator, it sometimes disappears altogether.
When I take off, every time I shift gears the sound returns -- only for as long as I step on the clutch and back off the gas, and when I step on the accelerator again the noise falls in pitch and vanishes. It does this off-and-on thing through all the gears, and after reaching the desired road speed (and I’ve reduced pressure on the gas pedal) the sound returns and is constant. Also, if I shut the truck off and wait just a few minutes, and then fire it back up, the sound will be gone, but will return after a short while, exactly as related above. It’s worth noting that, during all this irritating misadventure, the engine has run exactly as it always has -- there’s been no discernible impact on performance.
Now, some considerations. The noise is louder and more strident when the ambient temperature is lower, such as in the morning. Later in the day, when the temperature rises, the sound becomes erratic and somewhat unpredictable, and is much lower in volume, and it will even stop abruptly and then reappear later.
Many people have suggested that it could be the belt or a pulley, maybe. I replaced both tensioners and even installed a new, shorter belt to bypass the A/C compressor (to eliminate it as the possible culprit), but the noise remains. I was skeptical of all that because -- and please correct me if I’m wrong -- a shot pulley making such a horrible racket should get louder as engine speed increases, not drop in pitch and disappear. In fact, the noise seems to have no relation to engine RPM; if anything, it seems tied somehow to intake manifold pressure (the sound vanishes when the truck is accelerating, which is when intake manifold pressure goes down, or so is my understanding), or throttle position, or something else entirely. The vacuum system? The noise seems mechanical to me, not like escaping air (or, well, vacuum) . . . but what do I know?
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger, manual shift. It always starts when cold, but sometimes -- very sporadic -- it will not start after I've gone somewhere. This has happened maybe 8 times over the past 18 months or so. Always, after sitting a while, it starts right up as though nothing happened. Several months ago I left it with a mechanic for an entire week, but he could never get it to act up. Of course.
In browsing through these discussions, I've seen the "starter/clutch interlock switch" mentioned. Here is my question, though. Would the starter still crank if that was the problem? or does that switch stop the starter from engaging?
When mine acts up, the starter cranks, the engine turns over ... it just acts like it's not getting fuel. Is that a starter/clutch interlock switch issue? Or something else?
When i try to turn on my car it cranks but it doe not start. It starts when i pump the gas pedal multiple times but when i let go of the gas it just dies. i have used a scanner to find any codes but no codes come outs.
View 13 RepliesHere is the history of the car. 1997 Dodge Intrepid, 3.3L V6, close to 200k miles. Bought used 8 years ago.
Engine was replaced by previous owner due to front end accident at 90k (about, memory is fuzz on the full miles). Previous owner was a sales lady and had a repair log. Kept car running like a coo-coo clock since work paid for the maintenance. Her insurance paid for the repair then her work would not continue to pay for upkeep, due to accident. Since I bought the car, I kept in the same frame of mind of maintenance and upkeep.
- Oil is changed regularly and on time (no burning or loss, still filled to levels with synthetic high mileage oil) (Color - maple syrup amber, due to be changed in 500 or so miles)
- Water pump changed 3 months ago (no oil in the res. tank)
- Alt. changed in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Ignition Coil and spark plug wires in 2006 (30 - 35k miles ago)
- Battery replaced in 2007 with a new one)
- Spark plugs last Feb. (about 10k miles ago - Look semi clean and are all gaped still to the manual specs) as well as the 2 belts on the engine.
(Timing chain same age as the replaced engine at 90k)
- All the instrument panel lights work, as well as head, turn signals, interior and tail.
Has for a long time (4 years or so), has an engine light on for an O2 sensor (Code 0134 and the meter I have).
The exhaust system had disconnected from the Catalytic Converter (engine side) last winter (9 months or so ago) due to weathering (clamps rusted off and pipes separated). Recently I repaired this 2 weeks ago (noting heavy black soot in the pipes and around the area on the underside). Once replaced had a cloud of soot when I floor the gas hard while driving.
Yesterday while driving after 10 mins from home while accelerating I noticed a loss of power (slowing down) instinct was to press the gas, did so, and slowed down even more. Car drifted to a stop, engine power was also gone (power steering was gone also). When this happened, there was No banging, or clunks, or loud sounds, or overtly ominous clouds of smoke. Engine turned off (while costing to a stop the engine acted as if out of gas - hence no power steering). Got a tow home.
The starter turns the engine over with no clatter, banging, or clunks. No backfires or "Coughing". Same sound as of before, but won't catch and run under own power. (Still acts like no gas, but has half a tank) (battery still has a full charge - spark plugs still spark - took one out of engine while still connected to spark plug cable grounded to engine for testing. No overtly heavy gas smell or residue on plug or during test).
My friend who assisted in the exhaust repair says that it is not the Catalytic Converter being clogged (I believe it is). His suggestion is a faulty sensor somewhere else, maybe cam/crank sensor, maybe MAP sensor, maybe ignition switch, bad EGR or even a bad ASD relay. Don't want to be buying parts to no end on this, need other input to narrow down a direction.
In the process of moving to a new house our Neon SE (2.0L, SOHC) sat for about a week without being driven. When my wife goes to start it (5am Monday morning: FUN), it turns but won't actually start. I throw on the code reader and get a P0508, Idle Air Control valve sense circuit Low. At this point, I've put on a new IAC valve, note: the throttle body looked good and in working order, and spliced on a new OEM wiring harness, but the pos still won't fire up. When tracing the wires, there was no indication of them being frayed or short-circuiting. The next step, following this code P0508, would be to change out the PCM. From my research, if the PCM is truly bad, there's usually one or several codes indicating as much; i.e. I'd be getting a lot more than just a P0508.
Could the P0508 been a red herring? I generally associated a bad starter or starter solenoid with a clicking noise, but would this still be worth checking out? On that same note, could the culprit be a bad ignition coil even without any codes showing for IC-related problems?
Ok, this has happened to me and my wife while driving. During braking, once in a while the engine will shut off for a split second then turn right back on without me doing anything. We only have 1 other key on the key ring with the ignition key. Also the inside lights (dashboard/radio) flicker once in a while. The alternator is charging 14 volts, the battery checks out. When it shut off while my wife was driving she noticed the instrument panel lights came on for a second (like when you start the car {abs-check engine- temp- all the warning lights}) and the instruments bounced all the way up then down (also like when you first start the car)...
View 12 Replies1999 Dodge Dakota
3.6 liter w/air conditioning
I'm pretty sure I made a mess of things. My Serpentine belt was all cracked and making noises while idling and driving. It was time to replace it. It's a long story, but my auto mechanic told me to drive my truck for a week and then give him a call. Well.... I didn't do that. My battery went dead and I charged it up and it lasted a month. Yesterday, it wouldn't start so I bought a Serpentine belt and installed it. As far as I know, I didn't damage anything while I was working on it.
The battery was still dead and I charged it, however, the key was turned on while I was charging it. I don't know how I did that, but I did.
The problem I'm having is that the engine is now idling at 2000 RPM. I scanned it and there are no codes or pending codes.
Today, I went out and drew a diagram of how the belt is routed and it's the same as the diagram under the hood. I had a friend take a look at it and he agrees that I put it on correctly.
I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
View 6 RepliesHave a 2002 Dodge Dakota automatic. This winter when temps. dropped into lows 10s and zero degree weather, the Dodge truck would start,but would not come out of park gear. Have replaced interlock solenoid and brake light switch. Still have same problem when Temperature drops into low 10s &below. Otherwise,everything ok. (not using ER brake).
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Dodge Dakota. A couple of years ago I was driving along and the radio just cut out, with no problems prior. I didn't go over train tracks or anything that would jar it, etc. It continued to not work for the next 6-8 months or so, but would occasionally cut in and out. After a period of time the radio suddenly began working again. The radio continued to work for a year or more. A month ago, I'm driving down the road and it again, cuts out. But now I can somewhat hear the radio amid the static. The best way to describe it is what happens to the reception when traveling under high voltage wires. Antenna is secure.
View 1 Replies