Dodge - Dakota :: Pulsation In Brake Pedal And Sort Of Wobbly Feeling In Steering Wheel
Jul 1, 2012
I had a front brake job done on a 2002 Dodge Dakota pickup at 85000 miles. When I stepped on the brake, I felt pulsation in the pedal and a sort of wobbly feeling in the steering wheel. Also the brakes were making noises while driving. Classical sign of a warped rotor?! Long story short brand new rotors, brake pads and calipers, later the pulsation is mostly gone but the braking is still not smooth at one point while the tires are turning. Now i do have to older tires on the front but i just bought two brand new tires for the rear. Would it be wise to put the new tires on front to see if there might be some unevenness caused by the old tires before i take it back to the shop?
Also the feeling of the brakes catching on one point seems non existent or so minimal I can not be sure if the road surface interfering while driving slow of applying the brakes gently. But slowing down from higher speeds (above 40 mph) and using more then gentle braking ( not standing on the pedal with both feet) it is definitely there. Before the brake job braking caused the steering turning right. (sign of more braking action on the right - right?). Now with new stuff still pulls to the right but not as strongly. Should not this disappear with the brake job? Or get the new tires on front and see what gives?
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My brake pedal goes almost to the floor when I'm braking.I replaced the rotors, pads, shoes, power booster and the master cylinder 3 times.Had it bled twice and I still have a soft pedal, but now it firms up a bit as I pump the brakes.
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About 2 weeks ago, my 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 4.7L, was running fine. The very next morning, it's 4.7l engine has a very obvious misfire situation where it's hesitating badly, especially under acceleration at lower rpms, with the shaking feeling in the steering wheel etc etc. I have Advanced Auto parts and 2 separate auto shops plug in their little boxes to find the problem codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on as soon as this issue began. The codes they got were consistent from place to place: 1. Misfire on cylinders 4 & 6, and 2. Random multiple misfire.
So I go and buy 2 brand new coils for cylinder 4 and 6, and 8 new champion plugs. I was in Florida for a week, so the truck was NOT driven at all after the day this problem began. So I replace all 8 plugs and install the 2 new coils, but it makes NO DIFFERENCE. It's still hesitating just like before. Today I take it to Goodyear to have them do an allegedly thorough evaluation. They use their little code box and they get the same codes as mentioned above about random multiple misfire and misfire on cup 4 and 6.
Then the mechanic takes the truck for a ride and experiences the same hesitation and shaking under acceleration. So he replaces both of the new coils I had installed with their coils and replaced the 2 new plugs, just to make sure there was no issue with these new parts. He takes it out and apparently plugs in a different computer that monitors all engine functions, including air/fuel mixture, spark etc. According to that computer, the truck is running properly(according to them), and he checks compression and says it's good. So what's wrong, and he said that my car's computer was reset so the check engine is no longer on(I am not clear the how's and whys of that part). But the important thing is that it's still running badly and they can't tell me why it's running badly!
The mechanic said maybe a lifter collapsed or there is sludge that's causing an issue, but no solid explanation. Supposedly the 4.7L Dodge engine has a sludge issue experienced by some owners, and the mechanic recommended replacing the oil every 1500 miles instead of 3000. By the way, I asked how much it would cost for Goodyear to check the lifters and check under the valve cover, but he said they don't do that.
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I have a 2005 dodge Dakota when I'm driving the steering wheel will shake randomly.This isn't happening constantly when driving and it will stop after I make a turn. In addition it will happen randomly regardless of what speed I'm driving. What's going on?
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4 days ago I had a complete front brake job done on a 02 Dodge Dakota pickup. 80 miles on the new brakes I stuck in a traffic jam for over an hour. Once I stopped at the store I smelled burning brake odor on the passenger side right front wheel. Is there anything that should burn off of a new part of shall be concerned about this? New brakeshoes, rotors, calipers + brakefluid.
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One tech wanted to replace both rotors and sanding down the pads to re-use (he said my brake pads can last up to one year). The guy in auto part said the surface of brake pads having hard spots could cause the pulsation, replace the pads. Of course, replace both rotors and pads is recommended but I have tight budget! What options do I have? can I just machine the rotors?
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My Camry XLS have pulsation when brake pedal is applied. The pulsation get increased with the speed and very noticeable at 60 -70 mph.
Is it front or rear break issue ? If you think rotors has to be re-surfacesd should I also change pads ?
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My car is a 2004 Toyota Camry LE 2.4L. I've been having a brake pulsation problem with my car for few months. I feel the vibration on the pedal and also on the steering wheel when I brake at high speeds. And also I feel like the pedal goes too low and not responsive enough.
So I took the car to a local shop 3 days ago and they told me that the front rotors are bad and have to be replaced. They installed new Wagner front brake rotors and pads. But still I get the same problems described above. Today I drove on the highway and got the same vibration both on pedal and steering when I apply brakes.
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2011 Toyota Camry LE where when the vehicle is driven for the first time of the day, I get a wobbly vibration feeling right at around 41MPH... Doesn't seem to be the transmission, switching gears and putting it into neutral doesn't change the wobble. I've had the vehicle to the dealer 4 times now. Here is what they've tried (with no result):
Replaced all 4 alloy wheels
Replaced all 4 tires
Road force balanced
Replaced both front wheel bearings
Replaced both front axles
Aligned the vehicle
Replaced a "shaft" on the transmission (per the advisor, trying to figure out exactly what part he's referring to)
Replaced both front discs
Vibration all but disappears when the vehicle is warmed up.. about 10 minutes of driving. Is this just normal behavior for this car? I've driven several 2011 Camry's.. Some do it and some don't... Even with different tire/wheel configurations.
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I noticed a pulsating feeling when I applied the brakes in my 2001 Ford Focus. I figure that it might be warped rotors, but after driving the car for a while, it seems to have dissipated. The car was sitting around for a few weeks. I read that it could just be rust buildup, but I feel that would require more than a few weeks of sitting around. Is there any way to check for myself, short of taking off the rotor?
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I have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
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I bought my Passat 2.5 V6 TDI a few months ago, 3rd day i owned it a lorry hit the back end, its all fixed and looking great now.. but last week it developed wobbly steering, feels like a wheel is out of balance but only when coasting or off the power (engine breaking), and intermittent, i cant pin it down to one speed/range/road or anything.
I've checked tyre pressure and made sure the wheels are all on, jacked up the front end one side at a time but couldn't find any play in the track rod ends, i did notice the complexity of the legs on the front and that worries me a bit.
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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So I just came back from the stealer(Koeppel). I had them check out my car because it was making this clunking sort of noise from the steering wheel. When you turn the steering wheel, when it is turned straight, left and right, it makes this obnoxious noise. It sounds pretty bad.I thought it might be an axle problem or possibly a bearing. Now heres the funny part. My dealer says that it is normal. They said they called VW technical support and they told them that the way the rack&pinion was built on our cars, that causes the noise. He said i can show you 3 other Passats that make the same noise. I didn't bother because i did not have the time. I am going to go tomorrow again to see if they can find anything else on it. If they dont, i am going to ask them to show me the other Passats with the same noise.
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I have a 2011 4 door and I drive it VERY LITTLE... I have a company truck so the car sits most of the time but when I get in it to drive on the weekends or whatever, sometimes when I hit the brakes it feels like they stick while depressing the pedal. Its nothing unsafe feeling just annoying and it forces me to kinda slam on the brakes. it seems to go away after I drive it a while, I have been attributing it to sitting so much but wanted to double check.
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My 2003 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 3.9v6 auto trans does not shift properly. I have to lift my foot off the accelerator for it to shift. If I don't it just screams at a high RPM and sounds as if it is about to blow. It has a hard time making it up a small incline such as an overpass. Truck will not shift properly when going upgrade. Engine will rev at 4500-5000 rpm but will not shift until I slightly release the gas pedal. Truck will also perform multiple hard up shifts when in cruise control going upgrade.
Took the truck to the dealer reprogrammed the computer with a "flash update" that was no dice. The technician is now saying the original shifting problem is normal because dodge reprogrammed the transmission to avoid multiple up & down shifting when going up a grade. This was down to put "less stress" on the transmission. Doesn't make sense, dodge is saving the transmission by making it work less and destroying the engine by letting it rev at 5000 rpm. Automatic transmission will not shift to third gear unless the gas pedal is almost fully released. Transmission will not downshift to pass.
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I have my Toyota 2000 4 Runners having a slightly problem. When I paddle the brake at the Stop or traffic light, the wheel turns (mostly anti-clockwise) a little bit like 10 to 20 degrees. It doesn't turn all the time but especailly when the car is going slightly downhill such as when I paddle the brake and stop from parking lot onto the main road. The road is a little dip down or sometimes in front of the traffic light and it was slightly inclined. I don't know if this normal or not.
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I have 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD with front disc and rear drum brakes. My ABS & traction control lights come on together (sometime) when I hit brakes slowly to slow down my car around 20-30km/h with a grumbling/scraping feeling sent to my feet from brake pedal (feel like rumble strip on highway). ABS & T/C lights go away if I shut off engine and restart car. It also happens if I accelerate at that speed. This issue does not happen when I hit brake hard.
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I'm having an issue with my brakes. It was very intermittent, but seems to be happening a little more often lately. 99% of the time they work fine.
I'll try to describe. (vaguely) It will sometimes feel like the ABS is engaging, get a very hard pedal and some pulsing feeling. Sometimes just the pulsing without the hard pedal. It will happen at random times. Today it did it in the driveway going 5 MPH. No reason the ABS should think of kicking in.
I feel confident to rule out anything downstream at the wheels. I am leaning towards the master cylinder, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Afraid it also could be something sticking in the ABS which I assume is $$$.
Brake fluid is 18 months old with maybe 20k on it.
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I was asked to look at this Dakota because the Brake warning light and the ABS lights come on.
I get no stored codes with my code reader, and upon test driving it I found that the lights both go off when you shut off the truck, but each time you start up and drive off....those two lights will come on the first time you hit about 30mph and then stay on until you shut off the truck again. Restart and the lights are off until you drive off and hit about 30mph again.
Backing out of the shop, stopping, turning around, down the driveway 50yds and stopping at the road....the lights stay off, even though I just used the brakes three times at least. Get on the road and hit 30mph and they go on.
The two fuses, one in the fuse block by the drivers door and the other (ABS) fuse in the Power distribution box test good.Both brake lights work at the rear as does the high mount brake light. Fluid is at the full mark.
I pulled all four wheels and drums on the back and inspected everything and everything looks good and the E brake cables are intact and working as they should. Brakes were replaced (not by me) and have a little wear, but plenty of material left. No leaks of any lines, calipers, or cylinders. Front rotors are not scored from a sticky caliper, they do have a little minor rusting but because it has been idle for a few months.
I have the same year and drive train in my Dakota. Their truck has about the same stopping power as mine, but I did notice that I did not feel the surging in the ABS as I feel in my truck. I tested this by traveling at about 40mph with the passenger wheels in the gravel and drivers wheels on the pavement and applied the brakes hard. In my truck I felt the surging, but not in theirs. Note that my truck has a tall cap and always carries an extra 800 pounds of gear in the back.Maybe the heavier weight makes my ABS kick in quicker, but I would think weight wouldn't matter.....one wheel is slipping...period.
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When I have to push on the brakes for a hard stop, I can feel the brake pedal and the steering wheel shake a whole lot. Also, he ABS light is on. Correlation between the 2 obviously?
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