Dodge - Dakota :: New Starter Pinion Gear Doesn't Engage Flywheel
Jun 21, 2014
The starter in my '93 Dakota was dying (usual signs of worn brushes) so I replaced it with a new one from AutoZone. The starters looked the same, and after calling back to double check the part #, the store swears it's the right part. However, when I engage the starter, it spins but the pinion gear doesn't engage the flywheel. I can't see how I could have installed it wrong - the two bolts seem to have only one place they can go.
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I have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
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I just bought a 2000 f150 4x4 ex cab with the 5.4. Once in a while when starting, there is a grinding and the starter won't engage the flywheel. The truck has only had 17000 miles put on it in the past 4 years, and has sat quite a bit. Could the starter gear be gummed up and not engaging all the way, or should the starter be replaced? Or could poor contact on the cables cause this? Or is this a flywheel issue?
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After getting the oil changed in my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6L with 150K miles at a local quick lube, I made one stop and my truck wouldn't start. I could hear the starter engage the flywheel, but couldn't turn it over at all. Oil was clean and full. I bench tested the starter and it tests good. I put a breaker bar on the crankcase nut and I could barely move it. Oil level was about 2 quarts low before oil change.
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Pulled 3 starters at the junkyard to replace one that has a bad solenoid. Have a 2002 Buick Regal LS with 3800 series II engine. Found some on 3100 engines and one from a 3800. My starter has about 10 teeth on the gear that engages the flywheel. Some of the ones I pulled had smaller gears with only about 8 teeth.
Why the difference? Also one GM Delco starter was slightly longer (about 1/2 inch) than mine and had a small black hollow tube about 1 inch long at the rear of the starter and at the bottom. It fell off when I touched it. Looks like it might be a drain hole in case some water gets in to the starter. What is this really for?
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Alright, so my battery is fully charged and there's water in it. When I turn they key, there is a rapid mechanical clicking clearly coming from the starter area, but no attempt to turn over. Stuck solenoid? Bad starter relay? Bad starter? Missing teeth on the flywheel? Seized engine? The Mayan calendar apocalypse?
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My 96 Tacoma has recently developed an issue where the starter doesn't engage when I turn the key. If I let out the clutch/break and start over, it typically works.
The weird part is that I never had this issue until I had the clutch replaced. The day after I got it back was the first time I had any issues. It is intermittent and doesn't happen anywhere close to all the time. I took it back to the shop that did my clutch and they told me I needed to replace my starter but I'm wondering if there is any other explanation for what's happening that would make sense given the timing of the whole thing. Could work they did replacing the clutch be causing this?
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08 Lexus GS350. Drove car Christmas Eve everything was fine, Christmas morning I go to start the car and it attempts to start once and before it cuts on it stops. Then anytime afterwards when I push the start button the starter doesn't engage and the radiator cooling fan comes on. I let the car sit for half a day and try to start it again I get the same cycle (it engages the starter but quits before the car turns over)...
- Battery is new as of September 14 (also took the battery to get checked 100% charged).
- I replaced the alternator in November 14
- I currently have the car at my mechanics but they can't figure it out as of yet. So far they are saying that the can't the cars computer to respond to their machine.
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My starter motor in my 2004 Golf 2.0 doesn't engage or spin when it is very cold. By very cold, I mean below 5F.
The battery has plenty of juice, and jumping the battery doesn't work. I turn the key to "start" and nothing happens. When key is in the on position, fans, wipers, etc all work fine. When the car warms up to 20F or so, everything is fine and the car starts.
Here's the funny thing. If I put a little space heater on the driver side floor to warm up the fuse and relay panel, it starts with no issue.
I don't know enough about the interlocks between load reduction, starter motor, ignition switch etc to make a good guess as to which relay (if any) may stick in extreme cold. It's a tough problem to diagnose, because I can only experiment when it gets REALLY cold, when it isn't very fun to experiment anyway. I don't think it's the piggy back harness, because the wipers, horn and fan all work.
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My 2003 Dodge Dakota does not shift properly sometimes going into second gear and it only happens in second gear. I have to lift my foot off the accelerator for it to shift into third. If I don't it just screams at a high RPM and sounds as if it is about to blow. It has a hard time making it up a small incline such as an off ramp. Truck will not shift properly when going up grade. Engine will rev at 4500-5000 rpm but will not shift until I slightly release the gas pedal. Truck will also perform multiple hard up shifts whether in cruise control or not in cruise control, going upgrade. Took the truck to the dealer reprogrammed the computer with a "flash update" that was no luck. Not once has the ENGINE LIGHT ever come on.
So a lot of the comments that were presented to me I have done. Here is a list:
Changed govner senors and solenoid. Did not work.
Checked for exhaust leaks and other leaks. No leaks.
Checked all vaccuums. No problems there.
Had engine checked and dyno tested. No problems there.
Had transmission rebuilt. Same problem. (dealer did work)
Had new transmission put in. Same problem. (dealer did work)
Also, sometimes when I put the truck in reverse, it seems to about to stall, but it doesn't. It also does it sometimes when I put the truck in drive it seems that it wants to stall.
I just recently learned that my truck has a Transmission computer module, Transfer case computer module and of course the main computer. Is there a way to test those modules out?
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I have a 2002 Dodge Dakota with 130,000 miles on it, 360 engine, automatic transmission, and I am the original owner. About three months ago it started not shifting out of first gear correctly. I can bring the speed up to 30 mph and let up on the accelerator and then it will shift up. Once it is going it shifts back and forth in the upper gears and I can override the overdrive just fine. I have towed a trailer during this time and the transmission is as strong as before. I have the oil and filter changed as per the owners manual. Years ago the owner of our local dealer and I had a dispute over the warranty on the front brakes locking up and he asked me not to darken his door ever again so I have obliged him and would rather not change this arrangement. The shop I have used for years cannot find any problem and no codes show up on the computer.
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When I start the truck in cold weather, the transmission doesn't want to shift out of 1st gear. Some time it take driving it a 1/8 of a mile before it shifts.
What is wrong / need replaced ? I was told to shift it thru all the gears before I move it to warm up the transmission fluid ? I'm thinking some sensor needs replace ???
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Yesterday my truck would stay on if I had the gas on, or if I put it in gear and drove but when it was in neutral it would shut off. And then after driving it for a few minutes it completely shut down. It is a manual transmission.
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This morning my 2006 Dodge Dakota v8 auto decided to become a large paperweight. I started it up fine and let it warm up a bit (about five-ten minutes), then shifted into reverse to leave my driveway and it won't move. It just rev's and rev's like it's in neutral. I tried Reverse, Drive, and both low gears, but no luck.
Since it got very cold, it has been making a buzzing/whirring sound that seems to be coming from the belts. But that sounds would go away when the car warmed up. I thought I needed a new power steering belt (and still may), but that wouldn't keep the car from moving at all, right?
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This is an ongoing problem that has lasted for several weeks now -- I’m completely flummoxed and at a loss. It goes something like this:
My truck (2000 Dodge Dakota, 2.5L, 5-speed) has developed -- for lack of a better term -- a high-pitched whining squeal, which only occurs after I put it in gear and actually start moving (if I leave it idling in neutral, when starting it after letting it sit overnight, the sound usually does not appear at all). After about three or four minutes of driving time, the sound will show up, but there’s an odd twist: the sound is most apparent, and really loud, when the truck is at idle, such as when at a stop sign or traffic signal; when I put it in gear and take off, the noise will drop in pitch and, depending on how hard I’m pressing on the accelerator, it sometimes disappears altogether.
When I take off, every time I shift gears the sound returns -- only for as long as I step on the clutch and back off the gas, and when I step on the accelerator again the noise falls in pitch and vanishes. It does this off-and-on thing through all the gears, and after reaching the desired road speed (and I’ve reduced pressure on the gas pedal) the sound returns and is constant. Also, if I shut the truck off and wait just a few minutes, and then fire it back up, the sound will be gone, but will return after a short while, exactly as related above. It’s worth noting that, during all this irritating misadventure, the engine has run exactly as it always has -- there’s been no discernible impact on performance.
Now, some considerations. The noise is louder and more strident when the ambient temperature is lower, such as in the morning. Later in the day, when the temperature rises, the sound becomes erratic and somewhat unpredictable, and is much lower in volume, and it will even stop abruptly and then reappear later.
Many people have suggested that it could be the belt or a pulley, maybe. I replaced both tensioners and even installed a new, shorter belt to bypass the A/C compressor (to eliminate it as the possible culprit), but the noise remains. I was skeptical of all that because -- and please correct me if I’m wrong -- a shot pulley making such a horrible racket should get louder as engine speed increases, not drop in pitch and disappear. In fact, the noise seems to have no relation to engine RPM; if anything, it seems tied somehow to intake manifold pressure (the sound vanishes when the truck is accelerating, which is when intake manifold pressure goes down, or so is my understanding), or throttle position, or something else entirely. The vacuum system? The noise seems mechanical to me, not like escaping air (or, well, vacuum) . . . but what do I know?
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My truck will start and idle but when I engage it into a gear, whether it is drive or reverse, it will start to bog down and not respond to throttle. Sometimes the truck will stall other times it will just bog down then the rpms shoot up and the truck will run normal after. If the truck does die it will fire right up and have no issues and run great. Now whenever I stop and shutoff the truck the next time I start it up it will go through the exact same process. It doesn't matter how long the truck has been shut off. Could be a minute could be a day. Truck has 177k miles, in the last year it has given a code for camshaft sensor going bad and has been replaced twice. Have also had the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors replaced within the last 6 months. Not sure if this matters but was told my truck is California Emissions by the garage that replaced the cat.
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This issue has been happening for a few weeks now since it has been around -10C here. When I start the car it starts just fine but then the starter grinds against the flywheel (same as if you tried to start while car already on). I did a quick search and found that the relay may be faulty, Car is at 87000 kms.
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I have a Chevy Tahoe 1999, Went to the store came out my Tahoe wouldn't start i had it towed home. My husband said the starter was clicking but wasn't getting enough power to turn the flywheel. We got a new starter put it on and it clicked just like it did when i tried to start it before. We took the new starter back and had the old one tested and it was ok so we put it back on and it still clicked like before. He said the flywheel was easy to turn, then he replaced the hot wire from the battery to the starter, now the starter don't even click.
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I have a 1992 for explorer XLT 2-wheel drive Automatic 4.0 engine. The starter started grinding against the fly-wheel. Changed the starter and the same thing happened. There is no shim for this starter. I took it down and checked the flywheel--as much as I can see through the starter mount hole and the teeth on the flywheel are great. There is only the slightest point of impact where the starter is just grazing the flywheel.
I also grabbed the flywheel to look for looseness, thinking it might have broken and/or warped and I just can't see where it broken because of the small hole. It's solid! It's as if the whole thing just moved back about an inch and a half... I texted both the old and new starters with jumper cables, and the make certain, I took them to the local parts store and they also texted them. While both of the starter were fine, I'm not!
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I have a 2001 Santa Fe 2.7l automatic. I recently changed out the automatic transmission (transaxle) as the old one had died. Now the starter motor plunger is not disengaging quick enough on start up and a screaming noise is made as flywheel turns as engine first turns over. I have just put a new starter motor in with exactly the same (screaming) result. The flywheel looks to be in reasonable condition as I inspected it when being put in, no teeth mangled and all teeth there. The transmission replacement was from a wrecked vehicle, I was told from same model vehicle but maybe a 2003 Santa Fe.
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Four months when you tried to start the vehicle sometimes you will hear the starter. Drive in gauge but not meet the flywheel. Sometimes it would take three or four tries to turn over the engine. Yesterday went out to start the engine turn the key nothing happen no noise nothing but all the lights were working OK..
The repair shop said it was not the starter but flywheel missing teeth. But they said the main thing wrong is a need of new battery terminals. They change them in the truck started fine last night Today when my wife try to start it then come home saying thing happen nothing no sound, no nothing. Am I dealing with a bad starter solenoid perhaps or a combination of a bad flywheel??
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