My 06 Dodge Dakota, has a terrible racket coming from the front end when you hit a rough place in the roads especially the left side, seems worse when the wheels are cut, nothing is obviously loose ,it has 88K miles on it.
View 6 RepliesSo I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
View 1 RepliesI have an 87 longbed Dakota that I bought new. It's my work truck. Lately it has developed a chirping noise that I hear best with the rear slider window open. I think it is safe to say that it is not coming from under the hood. When I accelerate from a stop the chirping noise increases in pitch and frequency. The frequency does not change when the auto trans up shifts. There has been no noticeable out-of-the-ordinary vibrations, even at freeway speeds.
I have stopped driving on the freeway since the chirping became impossible to ignore. The chirping becomes less and less audible the faster I go as the pitch and frequency increases. When just starting from a dead stop, it sounds like a metallic scraping noise. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the chirping stops, even when still coasting, so it only occurs under load. It does not occur when the truck is stopped and the engine is revved.
My 1993 Dodge Dakota quits running at any time, from right after start-up to going down the road. It wont start running again until the check engine light comes on when the ignition is turned on. I can sit there from a few seconds to five minutes before the check engine light comes on. I have cycled the key three times to check for a code, but there are none. I have checked much of the wiring to the relays and some to the PCM, but have found nothing wrong. This truck did the same thing with the two previous owners, and had the PCM replaced, to no avail.
View 6 RepliesI have a 02 Dodge Dakota 4.7 liter that is killing me. No codes and no check engine light. From a cold start it starts fine but then runs rough. If I let it run for a few minutes, turn it off and try to restart it, it is very hard to start. Also, if I have it running and rev the engine above 3k rpm and let go of the gas it dies. It will idle without holding the gas pedal down but will die after a rev. Fuel pressure and volume are right in spec. Have good compression, spark and injector pulse on all cylinders. I thought maybe a crank or cam position sensor, but either of those would usually throw some type of code. I thought IAC but it seems to be functioning properly.
View 3 RepliesHere's what is going on with my 2000 Dakota V6 3.9L V6:
After sitting for at least a couple of hours, the truck will crank but not start. After 3-5 tries, the truck does start but idles roughly at a very low RPM for 10 seconds or so and then stalls. I turn the key one more time and it starts up great and idles and drives normally. This behavior is very consistent. I have only driven it about 5 miles after it started doing this, because on that trip, the engine stalled while I was driving. Occasionally the MIL comes on and gives P0443 as the code. Question is, can the evap purge solenoid cause this behavior if it is going bad? I have inspected the vacuum lines, and they seem ok.
One more note: When this first started, I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump. Replacing that has not fixed the problem, and the fuel pump relay is good.
My 2002 Dakota with a 3.9 (200,000 miles)has a problem that I cannot seem to cure.When I start the engine it never hesitates....it starts without a problem. No excess cranking...it fires up as it always did.It does run a bit rough as if ONE cylinder is missing every few revolutions. If I let it idle in the driveway for five minutes it will clear up and run fine. But if I take off right away the following will happen.I put it in gear (automatic) and for the first mile or two it runs as though the plug wires (More than one) are wet and arcing. I can barely get above 25mph. it will spit and sputter for that first mile or two.
Then suddenly it will clear up and surge....probably because I have loaded the system with excess fuel......and after it clears up , I have no other problems with it weather I'm on a long trip or a short one. If I stop for more than 15minutes, I have to go thru all this again.I've had vehicles that acted like this after a hard rain because the plug wires were old and arcing...that's why I use that as a description.I also noticed that the other day right at the end of a big downpour it took at least 5 miles to clear up.
Before this rainstorm I had replaced the plugs, wires, rotor and cap, while inside the shop so everything should have been bone dry except for all the humidity from the storm. After starting I checked for any arcing while in the dark shop and even moved a few wires that were touching and no arcing was seen from the cap, wires or coil. I also changed out all those parts 6 months ago when I did a major tune up, but it ran fine untill about two months ago.
When this started two months ago is was just a rare occurrence and my mechanic thought that I had gotten some gas with water in it. He had me run a few bottles of injector cleaner it the next few fill-ups and I've run a few bottles of heet through it also. In the last two weeks it has been doing this every time I start up. When this did start showing up it would show a code of a random misfire and the engine light would come on even though I felt no signs of a misfire myself. The light would stay on for a day or two then go back off. A few days later it was back on.I thought that I fixed the problem because the light stayed off for a month.
So it has been only the last two weeks that it bucks and kicks so bad at a startup, but you would think that an engine misfire would show up and the engine light come on. By the way the light does work. Now, I never get a engine light on, and he found no codes in the history. I have my own scanner, but his can do so much more. I never find any codes also. My mechanic ran some diagnostic's and found an up-stream 0,2 sensor bad so we replaced that.
Yesterday I dropped the tank, pulled the pump and cleaned the tank real good. The only filter is the sock on the pump and that was clean. I refilled with fresh gas and I still have the same problem. So I think that we can eliminate water in the fuel, plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. My next thought is the cam sensor in the distributor.
I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2l MPFI and auto trans that has me and many other mechanics stumped. Recently it stalled on me when I pulled it into the driveway, and ever since it has had this problem.
When I start it up in the morning and it's cold, the problem isn't as bad, but as it warms up it gets worse. It sounds like it's running rough, but its firing on all cylinders. I've verifies this by pulling the plug wires and also the fuel injector wires, and each one will bog the engine down a bit. Also, when I'm cruising or parked, if I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm or less, it loads up and will stall when I let off the throttle. I have to bump the throttle to about 1500 rpm or so when pulling up to a light so that it won't stall on me. When I hold the throttle and it loads up, I can read the o2 sensor with a scanner and it shows 0.8 or 0.9v, so I know it's running rich. If I let off, the sensor reads normal. It's not super rich, but enough that it causes this problem.
Things I've tried so far:
- Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
- New coil (old one had cracks in the case)
- Checked distributor for play in the shaft, timing chain for looseness, and cam sensor for damage
- Has a new PCM, swapped back to old one and the problem still exists
- Checked fuel pressure with and without regulator, is within specs cold or warmed up, no odd drops in pressure
- Checked all sensors with scanner to verify they read within specs
- Replaced all sensors with known good used AND new and none made any difference (o2 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, air intake temperature, idle air control, coolant temp sensor)Plugs are brown/tan colored, none are blatantly rich
- Replaced the battery, alternator, and checked all grounds
- Checked the EGR system for correct operation
- Checked for vacuum leaks and broken wires, found none
The truck also has no catalytic converter and only has 1 pre-cat o2 sensor. I also am not getting any codes.
The front suspension on my 07 Accent SE has been crunching when I drive over rough patches in the road. The car is at just over 60,000 miles, and I don't drive aggressively. I'm planning on replacing the front struts, but I'm not sure which parts to swap out. I've purchased some Monroe struts, but do I need to replace the strut mounts as well? And are there any other parts I should change while I'm in there?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Dakota 5.9 truck that has all of a sudden started to idle rough, loses power over 3000rpm or any kind of reasonable acceleration , with a big sucking sound from the throttle body ( no leaks), seems like it is not getting fuel. Someone mentioned it maybe the "MAP" sensor.
View 2 RepliesI hear a bit of a squeaking noise. Very minimal. Coming from back when I'm on rough roads. Is that normal. Sounds like it might be from coilover or somewhere in the back.
View 2 RepliesI noticed when driving on a rough surface/road (gravel, snowy road with sand) the there is a considerable amount of noise coming inside the cabin on the rear end especially.
When I was doing a quick wash today I just realized the sound is coming from the wheel base. On the rear and front end there is a plastic covering the wheel base. Sound proofing / undercoating wheel base.
I have owned my 2011 Azera Limited for 12k miles. It has been a great car except for the rough ride and road noise. I have rotated my Michelin MXV4 Energy Plus Greens ( P235/55R17) every 6k miles. I was told, by the dealer, that the ride is because of a "European Suspension Style design", which calls for a stiffer ride but more control. I asked Michelin about this and they said the tires are made up of a new type compound which might make them ride a little harder. They suggested it was in the design of the car also.
After getting the run around from everyone, I went to and old retired Michelin Dealer/Owner, who I've known for years, and he said, forget these tires, they will cup easily and always run rough. Look for a brand with a higher speed rating, you'll get a better ride but expect less mileage out of them since they probably will be a performance tire. Tire sidewall stengths have changed so don't think a higher rating will make a stiffer sidewall. This is not true today at all.
I just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
View 10 Repliesi have a dodge Dakota and there is water that leaks into the front right passenger side when I run the AC...
View 3 RepliesMy 2005 Dodge Dakota truck is shaking violently (in the front end) when I apply the brakes and I can't seem to fix the problem. I have changed the front rotors, brakes, alignment and new tires.
View 3 RepliesPicked up an 02 Camry with manual trans and 100k miles on it. It has terrible road noise coming from the right front. I thought it may be tires, so I replaced all 4 of them with new michellons It sounds like there is no insulation on the fire wall. I can not find the cause of this noise at all. It is like driving with the window down!
View 2 RepliesWe bought a 2014 hyundai sonata on 28th of october. every thing worked fine. When we test drove we didn't notice the road noise. but yesterday we did notice it and it is unbearable. it sounds like it is coming from the front. I called the dealer and told them this is too much. We asked if we could return the car. we only had it 3 days. The dealer says he can fix it. We think it is a design problem. We just sold our 2009 sonata which was a very good car.
View 24 RepliesI have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
View 1 RepliesAlright, so my battery is fully charged and there's water in it. When I turn they key, there is a rapid mechanical clicking clearly coming from the starter area, but no attempt to turn over. Stuck solenoid? Bad starter relay? Bad starter? Missing teeth on the flywheel? Seized engine? The Mayan calendar apocalypse?
View 3 Replieswe had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
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