I purchased a 2002 Dakota and have had a hard time ridding it. I thought that the heater core was leaking and getting the passenger side floor wet, but it's the overflow for the evaporator under the dash. The drain must be plugged. Will I have to remove the dash to pull the heater unit down far enough to clean it. I don't think I can do much from under the hood...too tight.
View 4 RepliesThere is a clicking sound (about once per second) in the front of the engine compartment of my 2002 Dodge Dakota (2WD, quad cab, manual, no alarm, no electric windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) when the vehicle is off (ignition in the off position - with or without key in ignition). It stops if the battery is disconnected, if the key is in the run position, or if the key is in the position that allows one to use power while the vehicle is off. The interior lights and headlights will flash in sync with the clicking sound if they are on as well. The chime that lets you know that the key is in the ingnition with the door open will miss a beat with the click also. The amps running through the circuit (no lights on) jump up from 27 milliamps to 39 milliamps with the click sound. A possibly related issue is that the headlights no longer stay on for the 30 seconds or so that they used to when I turn off and exit the truck after having driven with the lights on. The clicking and light flashing continued even though I removed each fuse and relay in the box under the hood and the one next to the driver door (the lights stopped when their fuse was removed, but the clicking continued).
View 3 RepliesI have an 02 passat with about 85K and the other day my windows would not clear up and a faint smell of antifreeze. also when temp control is in cool and you move the temp control to warm steam comes out of vents. I need to know if i could change this myself and if any procedure on how to do it.
View 3 RepliesCoworker's 2000 Focus's heater core started leaking on his 50m commute this morning. He is ready to donate the car at this point. Any stop leak product (i.e. Bars) that would stop the leak without clogging the cooling system.
View 5 RepliesI have a 89 ford mustang with 4 cylinder. After being stored for the winter I noticed anti-freeze leaking from drain tube below heater core (small amount). I am not looking forward to replacing the heater core in this car! Any reason this happened after the car sitting in storage all winter??? or just a coincidence??
View 7 RepliesThe problem started when his heater core was leaking coolant and it dripped all the way down to his original ECU. Car stopped working. Then he went to a Hyundai dealer to fix the problem but they said he had to buy a brand new one. First ECU didn't work. Returned it and bought one more expensive. Dad told me it worked but he didn't by pass the heater core so coolant dripped again. So now I'm on my third ECU but it doesn't work. I've read online that some older cars have plug-and-play type of ECUs that aren't restricted to the VINs. His car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS FWD 4dr 3.5L.
View 5 RepliesI have a 08 f-150 with a 5.4. Started smelling anti-freeze in the cab, with that classic windshield haze of a leaking heater core. I don't have anything on the floor, nor is the engine heating up. Temp gauge is where it always is. This doesn't smell all the time.I just drove 4 1/2 hrs. with no problems. Other than the heater core ?
View 2 RepliesI just put a heater core in a friends passat that was running just fine, drove it into the shop. I pulled the dash and replaced the heater core and put it all back together. Everything works, starter turns over and all but wont fire. I went over everything numerous times to find anything unplugged but all looks fine. Says something about an airbag fault when you turn on the key. Would this prevent startup? what can I do?
View 6 RepliesFord dealership is having problems with heater core repair. 2002 Ford F150 Supercrew. Problem is antifreeze (or early on just smell) in the cabin. 4 heater core replacements in 2 years. A hose (?) replaced. Electrolysis kit replaced. 4th heater core replacment finished yesterday. I know that I need to let the dripped antifreeze work out of the system, but I am smelling mild antifreeze this AM. Usually gets worse over 2-3 days then I have to take it in. What might be being missed here?
View 5 RepliesPlastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
View 1 RepliesHave a '02 f150 and thinking the heater core slowly dieing. Have noticed for several weeks a nice line of water leaking onto the passenger side floor. Do you have to take off the entire dash to get to it? Will be doing replacement myself as the dealer or shop would probably kill me on labor.
View 12 RepliesHave a 2002 Dodge Dakota automatic. This winter when temps. dropped into lows 10s and zero degree weather, the Dodge truck would start,but would not come out of park gear. Have replaced interlock solenoid and brake light switch. Still have same problem when Temperature drops into low 10s &below. Otherwise,everything ok. (not using ER brake).
View 5 RepliesThe parking lights come on, the turn signal lights work, the interior lights and high beams work. Could it just be a fuse or two? Dodge Dakota 4WD 2002 ...
View 3 RepliesI have a 02 Dodge Dakota 4.7 liter that is killing me. No codes and no check engine light. From a cold start it starts fine but then runs rough. If I let it run for a few minutes, turn it off and try to restart it, it is very hard to start. Also, if I have it running and rev the engine above 3k rpm and let go of the gas it dies. It will idle without holding the gas pedal down but will die after a rev. Fuel pressure and volume are right in spec. Have good compression, spark and injector pulse on all cylinders. I thought maybe a crank or cam position sensor, but either of those would usually throw some type of code. I thought IAC but it seems to be functioning properly.
View 3 RepliesI was asked to look at this Dakota because the Brake warning light and the ABS lights come on.
I get no stored codes with my code reader, and upon test driving it I found that the lights both go off when you shut off the truck, but each time you start up and drive off....those two lights will come on the first time you hit about 30mph and then stay on until you shut off the truck again. Restart and the lights are off until you drive off and hit about 30mph again.
Backing out of the shop, stopping, turning around, down the driveway 50yds and stopping at the road....the lights stay off, even though I just used the brakes three times at least. Get on the road and hit 30mph and they go on.
The two fuses, one in the fuse block by the drivers door and the other (ABS) fuse in the Power distribution box test good.Both brake lights work at the rear as does the high mount brake light. Fluid is at the full mark.
I pulled all four wheels and drums on the back and inspected everything and everything looks good and the E brake cables are intact and working as they should. Brakes were replaced (not by me) and have a little wear, but plenty of material left. No leaks of any lines, calipers, or cylinders. Front rotors are not scored from a sticky caliper, they do have a little minor rusting but because it has been idle for a few months.
I have the same year and drive train in my Dakota. Their truck has about the same stopping power as mine, but I did notice that I did not feel the surging in the ABS as I feel in my truck. I tested this by traveling at about 40mph with the passenger wheels in the gravel and drivers wheels on the pavement and applied the brakes hard. In my truck I felt the surging, but not in theirs. Note that my truck has a tall cap and always carries an extra 800 pounds of gear in the back.Maybe the heavier weight makes my ABS kick in quicker, but I would think weight wouldn't matter.....one wheel is slipping...period.
I have an 2002 Dodge Dakota 8 cyl. 4.7 L engine, 272K. I've gone through 4 fan clutches in the last 2 years and could have gone through more. My mechanic can't figure out why. I've replaced all hoses, radiator, water pump, T-stats, you name it. AC doesn't work either. Probably just a leak. Not sure yet. Why they keep dying on me.
View 19 Replies2002 F150 5.4... I thought that I saw on here before a link that explained how to replace the heater core without removing the entire dash console. Looking for a link for this or get some good directions on how to replace the heater core?
View 1 RepliesMy 2002 Dakota with a 3.9 (200,000 miles)has a problem that I cannot seem to cure.When I start the engine it never hesitates....it starts without a problem. No excess cranking...it fires up as it always did.It does run a bit rough as if ONE cylinder is missing every few revolutions. If I let it idle in the driveway for five minutes it will clear up and run fine. But if I take off right away the following will happen.I put it in gear (automatic) and for the first mile or two it runs as though the plug wires (More than one) are wet and arcing. I can barely get above 25mph. it will spit and sputter for that first mile or two.
Then suddenly it will clear up and surge....probably because I have loaded the system with excess fuel......and after it clears up , I have no other problems with it weather I'm on a long trip or a short one. If I stop for more than 15minutes, I have to go thru all this again.I've had vehicles that acted like this after a hard rain because the plug wires were old and arcing...that's why I use that as a description.I also noticed that the other day right at the end of a big downpour it took at least 5 miles to clear up.
Before this rainstorm I had replaced the plugs, wires, rotor and cap, while inside the shop so everything should have been bone dry except for all the humidity from the storm. After starting I checked for any arcing while in the dark shop and even moved a few wires that were touching and no arcing was seen from the cap, wires or coil. I also changed out all those parts 6 months ago when I did a major tune up, but it ran fine untill about two months ago.
When this started two months ago is was just a rare occurrence and my mechanic thought that I had gotten some gas with water in it. He had me run a few bottles of injector cleaner it the next few fill-ups and I've run a few bottles of heet through it also. In the last two weeks it has been doing this every time I start up. When this did start showing up it would show a code of a random misfire and the engine light would come on even though I felt no signs of a misfire myself. The light would stay on for a day or two then go back off. A few days later it was back on.I thought that I fixed the problem because the light stayed off for a month.
So it has been only the last two weeks that it bucks and kicks so bad at a startup, but you would think that an engine misfire would show up and the engine light come on. By the way the light does work. Now, I never get a engine light on, and he found no codes in the history. I have my own scanner, but his can do so much more. I never find any codes also. My mechanic ran some diagnostic's and found an up-stream 0,2 sensor bad so we replaced that.
Yesterday I dropped the tank, pulled the pump and cleaned the tank real good. The only filter is the sock on the pump and that was clean. I refilled with fresh gas and I still have the same problem. So I think that we can eliminate water in the fuel, plugs, wires, rotor, and cap. My next thought is the cam sensor in the distributor.
This Dakota has the 3.9 with about 240.000 miles. New battery and Alternator within the last 18 months.
The other day after driving about 12 miles the chime "Check Gauges" come on and I noted that the voltage gauge on the dash was buried at Max.Pulled over shut off the truck and popped the hood. No visible problems. Got back in, started the engine and the gauge went back to it's normal position. I had expected to see smoke from the alternator or the battery blown to pieces from the overload. I also noted that there was no excess heat at the alternator or battery.
I picked up my DVM from the shop to carry along and have driven at least 5 trips over 15 miles since. Today the same problem occurred, but by the time I pulled into a close-by parking lot the meter went back to normal. I checked the voltage at the battery and had 13.25 volts with the engine off and 14.40 volts with the engine running. I drove another 40 miles with no problems.
Tomorrow I plan to run a lead from the battery into the cabin, so I can monitor the voltage quicker if the problem reappears.
After I drive my truck and park it for any period of time and then restart the truck it will sputter and backfire rpms do not go over 1500-2000. If I put it in neutral and rev the engine this will work but not always correct the issue. Eventually if I just push through it after 2 or 3 min it will go back to normal. I replaced the spark plugs, wiring and distributor cap. I have also changed the O2 sensors nothing seems to work though.
View 6 RepliesJust wondering if leaving the USB plugged in with the car is off drains the battery at all? Should I unplug it when I shut the car off or is it ok to just leave it plugged in?
View 4 Replies