Dodge - Dakota :: 1996 - Backfires / Stalls Then Impossible To Restart
Oct 12, 2014
My '96 Dakota SLT 6-cylinder pickup backfired and blew a hole in my muffler ... I've had it in three different shops on six occasions since and the thing still hiccups, backfires, stalls ... most of the electrical switches and sensors have been replaced ... right before it back fires, it feels like it is going to stall, then "POW" ... sometimes it continues to run fine for a little while after that ... then it happens again ... When it stalls it feels like it is running out of gas ... it is almost impossible to restart right away, but if I wait a few minutes, the starts right up ...
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I have a 02 Dodge Dakota 4.7 liter that is killing me. No codes and no check engine light. From a cold start it starts fine but then runs rough. If I let it run for a few minutes, turn it off and try to restart it, it is very hard to start. Also, if I have it running and rev the engine above 3k rpm and let go of the gas it dies. It will idle without holding the gas pedal down but will die after a rev. Fuel pressure and volume are right in spec. Have good compression, spark and injector pulse on all cylinders. I thought maybe a crank or cam position sensor, but either of those would usually throw some type of code. I thought IAC but it seems to be functioning properly.
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I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
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So my 96 Dodge Dakota's instrument lights went out a couple days ago, I thought it was just a fuse, so naturally I check all the fuses. Come to find out they're all fine, I replaced a few to see if maybe it was just an old fuse. Still nothing. Then last night I noticed that the instrument lights came on between off and on for the lights. So I assume its a wiring problem. Then as I drove down the road I hit a bump and all the lights went off then kicked back on. Needless to say I can't drive around with lights that won't stay on. Where should I check for the cause of this problem?
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Here's what is going on with my 2000 Dakota V6 3.9L V6:
After sitting for at least a couple of hours, the truck will crank but not start. After 3-5 tries, the truck does start but idles roughly at a very low RPM for 10 seconds or so and then stalls. I turn the key one more time and it starts up great and idles and drives normally. This behavior is very consistent. I have only driven it about 5 miles after it started doing this, because on that trip, the engine stalled while I was driving. Occasionally the MIL comes on and gives P0443 as the code. Question is, can the evap purge solenoid cause this behavior if it is going bad? I have inspected the vacuum lines, and they seem ok.
One more note: When this first started, I was pretty sure it was the fuel pump. Replacing that has not fixed the problem, and the fuel pump relay is good.
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so my 96 dodge dakota has been acting up a lot lately. I can barely drive in town let alone on the highway. when I drive, keep in mind its random most of the time, my truck will start jumping and then lose power. when I try to power thru it my truck will backfire and then shut off. once I try to start again it floods the engine. most of the time it will do this going up a hill or when it has to get above 3000 rpm. I don't know what's causing it. I replaced the throttle body fuel injection sensor and tranny filter but I figure its a fuel problem.
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We have a 1996 Dodge Dakota SLT that we purchased used. It starts and runs beautifully when the engine is cold; however, if you turn the vehicle off it is difficult to get it restarted and to keep it idling without keeping your foot on the accelerator. The funky thing is that after your "fight" with it a few minutes (i.e., foot constantly on the accelerator), the truck will then start to run correctly and idle correctly until the next time you turn off the engine. We have noticed that on each occasion when we have had this problem, the engine smells EXTREMELY flooded. We've been told its a temperature sensor, any other number of sensors, and now the IAC. If starting by process of elimination with least expensive fix first, what the heck do we replace first?
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i have a 96 slt v8 dakota im trying to fix myself. it wont start. put new batt. new starter motor. it just clicks engine wont turn everything in truck is working but when i turn the key to start its just clicks and my radio losses power. so i took out radio and still wont start...
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So I own a 96 Dodge Dakota and its had a few problems since I first bought it, but its all fixed except for one really puzzling problem. My head light will flash on and off while on low beams after about 30 minutes (if on high beams its almost instantaneous). It all started out with my dash lights going out then the head lights would go out when driving. I checked the switch and plug, both were fried, so easy enough fix. That fixed the dash lights, but the head lights still go out. I replaced the bulbs and yet the problem still exists. I then took it to O'Reilleys and the put a volt meter to my negative battery post and to and auxiliary wire just 6 inches from the post. When the lights were on they produced around 46 ohms of resistance and when they shut off they produced 26 ohms. Which isnt good, so I replaced the negative battery cable to try and fix the problem. This still did not solve it. The only other suggestion I have been given is to replace the high/low beam switch on the steering whee. Could that solve the problem?
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2000 Dodge Dakota (144K miles)just performed tune up (spark plugs, oil change, pvc, air filter, battery). Before and After tune up I am experiencing stalling at light after going over multiple speed bumps.
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I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
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I have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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96 intrepid, 3.5 motor. Runs fine, no loss of power or odd behavior but will just die. Like flipping a switch. Refuses to start. I checked fuel pressure and it's good. No codes. Does this motor have a MAF? Sure can't find one. It has the odd split intake plenum. 1 air box but 2 separate inlet ducts to each side of motor. The motor is not transverse. It has 2 throttle bodies on the firewall side of motor with a shaft that runs between them. So eventually it starts. Idles fine. I watch it idle. And click, it shuts off.
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1987 olds delta 88, 106,000 miles Pulling out onto the road one day, my car died and would not restart. Was idling fine, happened when I hit the gas. Here are the things checked. Ignition control module and coils checked ok at autozone. I replaced the cam and crank sensors, the coolant temp sensor, the plugs and the tps. Most of the time it will not try to fire, it backfires sometimes. I has started twice, but then would not restart. I have spark and fuel pressure, but will not even fire with starter fluid.
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2006 Chevy Express 3500 ... Vehicle surges, hesitates, stalls, backfires, and is hard to start after stalling.No codes are thrown, and have had the fuel system checked out without results. 159.000 miles. last mechanic said it was not a spark plug issue. Been an ongoing problem for several months and getting worse all the time.
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My 88 "Rosie" has been having problems for months. It hesitates, stalls, and sometimes backfires. This is an intermittent problem, though it is happening more often lately. I took it to local auto shop and their computer showed Rosie was throwing a misfire code as well as a lean code. I took it 3 months ago, and I took it last week, got the same codes. The lean code led me to check the fuel pressure. I did and while it should be healthy 48-55 psi, I got 48 for awhile then 15 PSI! Now I'm thinking fuel delivery. I started with the filter. Sure enough it was dirty. Weeks later, the problem persists. I replaced the fuel regulator (ok, mostly because it was cheaper than the replacing the fuel pump, which I really didn't want to have to do.) Still, no luck, so I finally caved and spent $200 and 12 hrs dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump. Guess, what? Still no dice. I'm still getting the hesitation and the misfiring. I haven't put the fuel pressure tester back on it (been busy) so I don't know if the pressure is still low or if these other things are even related. I thought my logic was infallible. Let's face it, there's a finite number of parts that control fuel pressure. I'm running out of parts to replace. Where did I go wrong? The only thing I can think of that could still do it is perhaps the fuel pump relay? I dunno. Would it work off and on or fail completely? I'd love to get some opinions on this.
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1996 dakota v8 automatic 4x4. tranny rebuilt 3 years ago got stuck in the mud and every since then it is stuck in first. wont shift no matter what i tried to adjust the tv cable and it didn't work at all. don't know much about dodge transmissions iv always worked on 4l60e in chevys. I don't know were to start. Where to start. iv been reading about the governor valve and shift selnoids are there any way to test any of this? first pulls strong and reverse works
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97 Dodge Dakota Sport V8. Has spark, turns over, won't fire.
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My dad has a 2001 Dodge Dakota extended cab with a 3.9L v6 (standard transmission). It will start and run for a while and it will die, if you turn the key it will start up again but will eventually die. He has changed the spark plugs & wires, the distributor cap & rotor, the MAP sensor, and the throttle valve sensor. It still does the same thing.
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So, my oil light comes on after startup like usual then shuts off. Anywhere from 2-5 minutes of the vehicle running light comes back on and does not shut off unless I restart the vehicle. Have changed oil pressure switch and oil pressure is reading in the normal range..
05 dakota with 175000 kilometres
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