I have a 95 Dodge Dakota SLT with a manual transmission. When I press the clutch, it loudly squeals. It makes no noise when my foot is off the clutch either in gear or neutral. I made sure the master cylinder was full of fluid. I'm thinking it's the throw out bearing.
I'm out of town, and have to drive 8 hours to get home. Can I get it home, or should I have it fixed ASAP?
This is an ongoing problem that has lasted for several weeks now -- I’m completely flummoxed and at a loss. It goes something like this:
My truck (2000 Dodge Dakota, 2.5L, 5-speed) has developed -- for lack of a better term -- a high-pitched whining squeal, which only occurs after I put it in gear and actually start moving (if I leave it idling in neutral, when starting it after letting it sit overnight, the sound usually does not appear at all). After about three or four minutes of driving time, the sound will show up, but there’s an odd twist: the sound is most apparent, and really loud, when the truck is at idle, such as when at a stop sign or traffic signal; when I put it in gear and take off, the noise will drop in pitch and, depending on how hard I’m pressing on the accelerator, it sometimes disappears altogether.
When I take off, every time I shift gears the sound returns -- only for as long as I step on the clutch and back off the gas, and when I step on the accelerator again the noise falls in pitch and vanishes. It does this off-and-on thing through all the gears, and after reaching the desired road speed (and I’ve reduced pressure on the gas pedal) the sound returns and is constant. Also, if I shut the truck off and wait just a few minutes, and then fire it back up, the sound will be gone, but will return after a short while, exactly as related above. It’s worth noting that, during all this irritating misadventure, the engine has run exactly as it always has -- there’s been no discernible impact on performance.
Now, some considerations. The noise is louder and more strident when the ambient temperature is lower, such as in the morning. Later in the day, when the temperature rises, the sound becomes erratic and somewhat unpredictable, and is much lower in volume, and it will even stop abruptly and then reappear later.
Many people have suggested that it could be the belt or a pulley, maybe. I replaced both tensioners and even installed a new, shorter belt to bypass the A/C compressor (to eliminate it as the possible culprit), but the noise remains. I was skeptical of all that because -- and please correct me if I’m wrong -- a shot pulley making such a horrible racket should get louder as engine speed increases, not drop in pitch and disappear. In fact, the noise seems to have no relation to engine RPM; if anything, it seems tied somehow to intake manifold pressure (the sound vanishes when the truck is accelerating, which is when intake manifold pressure goes down, or so is my understanding), or throttle position, or something else entirely. The vacuum system? The noise seems mechanical to me, not like escaping air (or, well, vacuum) . . . but what do I know?
When cold the trans works fine for about 15 mins, then its like you put it in nuetral. No forward no reverse. A friend suggested changing filter/fluids so I did. Worked great for about 4 hrs then same thing. Leave it sit for a few hours and it works good for about 15 mins then nothing. Should I try another filter or something else?
View 1 RepliesI have an 2002 Dodge Dakota 8 cyl. 4.7 L engine, 272K. I've gone through 4 fan clutches in the last 2 years and could have gone through more. My mechanic can't figure out why. I've replaced all hoses, radiator, water pump, T-stats, you name it. AC doesn't work either. Probably just a leak. Not sure yet. Why they keep dying on me.
View 19 RepliesI have a 1995 Dodge Dakota. After a bit of freeway diving and everything is all warmed up the truck makes a rubbing/grinding/groaning noise, but only during sharp turns. Once I straighten the wheels back out the nose goes away. The noise doesn't exist when it's cold though.
View 11 RepliesMy neighbor has a 1995 Dodge Dakota 3.9L that I have been trying to get back in good reliable condition. It has the 3.9L V6, manual transmission, and is 2WD if that matters. It is a pretty basic truck and must have about the fewest options they had that year. It has air conditioning but no radio as it came this way from the factory.
It has an issue which I suspect is vacuum related. When you accelerate or climb a hill, the HVAC acts really crazy. The vents start blowing air and then stop. It doesn't do this on a flat surface but does it immediately when you accelerate or otherwise put the engine under greater load.
I have inspected all the vacuum lines and found nothing wrong. There have been some issues with mice building a nest in the air cleaner but I couldn't find anything chewed. Where to look?
My tensioner pulley is already shaking but when the ac clutch is engaged the tensioner starts to shake even more and it starts to make a clunking noise extremely loud and fast. I also noticed that the crank pulley is shaking quite a bit too so I don't know if that has anything to do with it.
View 4 RepliesI've been experiencing a loud clutch squeal or screech when I first engage the clutch after the car has been sitting for longer periods of time, overnight etc. It goes away after a few shifts and only returns after the car sits for a long period.
I brought it to the VW dealership since I'm still under warranty for a bit. After two visits the have come up with two hypotheses without any evidence. They claim to have not heard it or found anything wrong visually.
1) it could be a rear main seal leak. Or leak from somewhere on the tranny onto the cultch. When I first drive it is burned or wiped away. After putting on the lift they found no evidence of leaks. So hypothesis two:
2) Thy flywheel may be developing a bit of a patina of rust. After the clutch is engaged a few times, the rust is gone and the squeal goes away.
I have a 2009 Hyundai sonata, 2.4, 5 speed manual, gls, when I press down on clutch whether from a stop or when shifting, I get a loud grinding noise and the radio goes dead at same time!, I know it is the starter attempting to "engage", at least that's what I believe it to be, it also "'starts "from, the "on " position when I press on clutch.
View 8 RepliesI've only owned my neon for 3 weeks. I have a loud knocking/clunking noise and it feels like the rear is trying to freeze up in reverse it knocks/clunks louder when i brake in reverse. Sometimes it will knock/clunk and feel like something is trying freeze up in normal forward driving (maybe one of twice every few days) but it happens every single time i reverse.
We have already replaced the rear struts as we thought this was the problem.
I'm getting frustrated I need a good car to drive my child to school and I afraid to drive this one but I don't have much of a choice. It has had a lot of recent work by the previous owner (my brother-in-law) including a new clutch, exhaust, tie rods, new brakes all around and brand new tires so i'd like to fix it because it's in great shape and runs well for it age.
Another piece of information that may be relevant is the car sat for roughly a year and half with no use but was regularly started although I don't think they moved it. I'm wondering if it could have something to do with the brakes?
The problem starting roughly 3 days after I bought the car I don't drive much but would like to fix this so we can take it on longer trips as it's the only vehicle we own that fits everyone in it. Our secondary is a 2 seater Toyota pickup for my husband to commute to work in and there's 3 of us so the car being in the condition it's in doesn't work for us.
97 Dodge Dakota Sport V8. Has spark, turns over, won't fire.
View 1 RepliesMy dad has a 2001 Dodge Dakota extended cab with a 3.9L v6 (standard transmission). It will start and run for a while and it will die, if you turn the key it will start up again but will eventually die. He has changed the spark plugs & wires, the distributor cap & rotor, the MAP sensor, and the throttle valve sensor. It still does the same thing.
View 1 RepliesSo, my oil light comes on after startup like usual then shuts off. Anywhere from 2-5 minutes of the vehicle running light comes back on and does not shut off unless I restart the vehicle. Have changed oil pressure switch and oil pressure is reading in the normal range..
05 dakota with 175000 kilometres
1999 Dodge Dakota
3.6 liter w/air conditioning
I'm pretty sure I made a mess of things. My Serpentine belt was all cracked and making noises while idling and driving. It was time to replace it. It's a long story, but my auto mechanic told me to drive my truck for a week and then give him a call. Well.... I didn't do that. My battery went dead and I charged it up and it lasted a month. Yesterday, it wouldn't start so I bought a Serpentine belt and installed it. As far as I know, I didn't damage anything while I was working on it.
The battery was still dead and I charged it, however, the key was turned on while I was charging it. I don't know how I did that, but I did.
The problem I'm having is that the engine is now idling at 2000 RPM. I scanned it and there are no codes or pending codes.
Today, I went out and drew a diagram of how the belt is routed and it's the same as the diagram under the hood. I had a friend take a look at it and he agrees that I put it on correctly.
I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
View 6 RepliesHave a 2002 Dodge Dakota automatic. This winter when temps. dropped into lows 10s and zero degree weather, the Dodge truck would start,but would not come out of park gear. Have replaced interlock solenoid and brake light switch. Still have same problem when Temperature drops into low 10s &below. Otherwise,everything ok. (not using ER brake).
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Dodge Dakota. A couple of years ago I was driving along and the radio just cut out, with no problems prior. I didn't go over train tracks or anything that would jar it, etc. It continued to not work for the next 6-8 months or so, but would occasionally cut in and out. After a period of time the radio suddenly began working again. The radio continued to work for a year or more. A month ago, I'm driving down the road and it again, cuts out. But now I can somewhat hear the radio amid the static. The best way to describe it is what happens to the reception when traveling under high voltage wires. Antenna is secure.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Dakota 5.9l r/t. Always started and ran fine. It sat most of the winter approx 2 months. Now will not start but cranks/turns. Has new battery, newer full tune up and tried starting fluid.
View 2 RepliesThe parking lights come on, the turn signal lights work, the interior lights and high beams work. Could it just be a fuse or two? Dodge Dakota 4WD 2002 ...
View 3 RepliesEvery time it rains and I forget and leave the truck outside instead of inside the garage, it will not start. It is a 2001 Dodge Dakota pickup truck. It tries to start but will not fire. I have to sit around and wait for a few dry days and full sun - which is hard to find around here other than August and September. I have had it towed to several different mechanics for review. They have all done the same thing - can't find anything wrong so they leave it sit around the lot for two or three weeks until the sun shines then charge me a hundred bucks or so for their diagnostic time and a jump start. Every once in a while out of shear frustration, I have it towed to a new mechanic or one of the previous ones but still get the same results. Does fine in the winter with snow, but it has even done it on occasion when going through a car wash - which I know longer do as I am too old to be pushing a pickup out of a car wash.
View 3 RepliesSo my 96 Dodge Dakota's instrument lights went out a couple days ago, I thought it was just a fuse, so naturally I check all the fuses. Come to find out they're all fine, I replaced a few to see if maybe it was just an old fuse. Still nothing. Then last night I noticed that the instrument lights came on between off and on for the lights. So I assume its a wiring problem. Then as I drove down the road I hit a bump and all the lights went off then kicked back on. Needless to say I can't drive around with lights that won't stay on. Where should I check for the cause of this problem?
View 2 Replies