1990 Dodge Cummins, 111,000 miles - does not charge, is not putting out. Installed new Chrysler alternator from NAPA and isolated field electronic regulator. Parts store (NAPA) checked the alt., said it is OK. Cleaned all ground/hot connections. Battery is 12.6 v. Have 12 v power at reg. and alt. Key "on" and both field pins hot (12v).
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Durango. My one year old battery suddenly began to lose its charge last month if the car sat for two or more days. A local repair shop determined the alternator was okay, but the battery was bad. The parts store agreed and replaced the battery under warranty.
A week later the new battery also went dead after the car had been parked for two days. I then took it to a Dodge dealership that kept it for over a week, but couldn’t find anything wrong. Even after being parked over the weekend, it started right up for them.
After getting it back home I drove it for three days. I parked it for two days, and the third morning the battery was completely dead. After charging with a trickle charger for a couple of hours the car started fine.
I bought the car new and have kept up on all the maintenance. It’s parked in my driveway the same way for over seven years with the doors locked. What’s going on?
1990 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3L
Three weeks ago, I had the starter rebuilt locally by a shop I've used confidently for years, most of their business is rebuilds like this. Besides a substantial coating of oil on the starter which was no benefit to the contacts, the tech also found a broken insulator which presumably was the primary issue. I installed the starter and have had no problems since (three weeks).
Yesterday morning, the battery was dead - no click, no lights, no horn. I could be wrong, but I don't think the interior lights were left on overnight.
I put my 1 amp trickle charger on it for several hours and when I reconnected the battery, the horn sounded right, interior lights looked good....until I tried the starter. In an instant, I got the chattering clicky sound of a starter with inadequate power , then nothing, and the lights and horn were gone too.
After charging overnight -almost 24 hours now, that same scenario has repeated: first good horn and lights, then clicks from the starter, then very weak lights and horn.
Is this simply that the battery is down and needs more charge? Or could there be something wrong in the starter causing this rapid discharge? A few months ago the same electrical shop load tested the battery and it was surprisingly good considering its age. I don't want to put a new battery in the car if the starter is somehow damaging the battery. I do have another battery I can swap in, but for the same reason I'm reluctant to install that without some better idea of what's happening.
Does this point conclusively to the starter? Or is this clearly the battery? Is there some way to diagnose the starter without removing it? I'm sure the shop would fix any mistake, but I don't want to pull the starter again for no reason. The cable connector on the starter looks normal.
Having trouble with my truck not charging. Changed out alternator, v/r and battery and still will not charge.
View 19 RepliesI have a 1990 Dodge Caravan complete with collector plates. I bought new bulbs to replace the burnt out map reading lights, but how to open the enclosure for the lights. There are no screws and no obvious places to pry open.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 f-250 sd 4x4 that had a 5.4L auto trans and a switch operated transfer case. Im installing a 1998 12v Cummins, nv4500 5 speed, and dodge manual shift transfer case. My father and I have made engine mounts, modified trans cross member, and installed a 1/2 " dip tube into fuel tank an used 1/2" fuel line to connect to factory Cummins fuel line. We are now to the worst part now "WIRING". I still have the OEM gasser 5.4 wiring harness. I bought bushings to install ford coolant temp probe and ford oil pressured sensor. I got my harmonic balancer machined with 2 more notches for ford cam/crank sensor pickups but I'm just confused after reading a few different postings about tach. I guess just need a run down on the 12v wiring to the 5.4 pcm. I would like all factory dash gauges to work right, cruise control, and A/C to work. My 12v still has dodge alt and dodge a/c compressor. I ve bought a bunch of parts so after you post to this ill let you know if I have it or not. Things like ford clutch and brake pedal sets, ford OEM manual transfer case shifter setup, bushings for ford sensors to Cummins, and other things I've forgot about.
View 6 RepliesI've been told that my 12V battery was low.
I stumbled on this ATV/ motorcycle battery companion in the garage, can I use it to charge my prius?
I just bought a new 2001 Grand Prix. I am not completely car savvy, but I know a few things for a lady.
The battery won't hold a charge.
and the computer diagnostic tester thing says the Headlamp Relay is malfunctioning.
I've had the car for about 24 hours. I love it so far. My one question seems to be that the battery doesn't seem to charge all the way up. There seems to be room for 2 more bars to be completely full. Is this normal? Something to be concerned about? How this works, but if it is supposed to be full to the top, I probably should go back to the dealer?
View 8 RepliesI'm wondering if there's a way to force the ICE to charge the HV battery, either while standing or driving. Currently, EV Mode kicks in while coasting down a hill, and I would rather use those moments to effectively charge the battery rather than trickle charge with what little gain that gravity gives me.
I know there was a way on other models to charge the battery while standing by depressing the accelerator in park (or in drive with the brake depressed), but neither method works with the 2015 Prius C. The battery continues to drain while the ICE runs in park, and it refuses to run in D or B while the brake and accelerator are pressed at the same time.
New battery, new terminals but my car won't turn over if I need to make a quick stop somewhere. I must wait at least an hour for the proper amount of voltage to build up and then the car starts just fine. What is going on?
View 7 RepliesI bought a dodge d150 a month ago. when i bought it, the lights work fine. one night i pulled out the headlight switch to turn the lights on, and the headlights came on, but no parking/running lights came on, and the back lighting didn't come on. if i sit there and jiggle the switch between off and where the original "notch" for the parking lights were, i can get them to come on intermittently. but they turn off as soon as i let go of the knob. all the other lights work, headlights, directional, hazards, reverse lights, cargo light...
View 4 RepliesMy battery on my Celica wouldn't hold a charge, as if my alternator was faulty but i took it to Azone and it was fine. Replaced battery around a month ago so i doubt that's the problem..checked fuses and "charging" fuse in fuse box next to battery was not getting current to i ran direct current to from battery it and it seem to have fixed the problem for about a DAY, then fuse blew..replaced it but it still seems to have the same problem ): btw the battery and brake lights stay on..
View 1 RepliesOn the Gen III Prius, is the Battery indicator that is displayed on the HSI an actual 0-100% charge indication of the battery?
View 2 RepliesI've had my C a week and a half and it is doing great, but I wonder if the system is ok. It has never shown the battery at 100%. My Civic would charge all the way quite often.
View 19 RepliesTook my C to the local drive through car wash as it was pretty crusty looking from all of the rain we've had lately. I had my A/C on as its a nice and warm sunny Florida day. Pulled inside and put my C in Neutral to go through the wash and half way through my car started beeping like mad and flashing the "!" in a triangle symbol and on the small screen it said something to the effect of "Cannot charge traction battery when car is in 'N'." My HVAC system drained down the traction battery and since the car was in neutral the engine couldn't keep it above the minimum SOC level. Turned the air off and anxiously waited for the car wash to hurry up so I could put it in drive. After I put the car in drive the SOC read 1 blue bar and took FOREVER to charge back (or perhaps it just seemed that way because I was freaking out..)
View 17 RepliesI am thinking of installing amp in 2010 prius. Question how is the 12v battery keeps its charge. I am assuming the amp will be drawing power from 12v battery. When the engine kicks on during driving it is charging the hybrid battery. I am afraid of killing the power from 12v battery.
View 5 RepliesI've had the alternator and starter tested twice,new battery. Its a 97infiniti qx4 and it won't hold a charge. The weird thing is, I have to wait day or two after I charge the new battery (which I replaced twice thinking it was the battery),then it will run for almost a day and then it just dies. And if someone tries to give me a jump, it will not charge and fire over. I have to get it towed back home and wait a day or two. (the wrecking companies are getting to know me very well). I've checked under the vehicle for any wires that are not suppose to be touching each other. Its my only car that I have at this time
View 5 RepliesI have been getting all sorts of weird messages and warnings for a few weeks now, and have previously posted about them. I have a service appointment next Monday.
Today I decided to check my driver's side battery and found only 11.6 volts. I am charging it as we speak. It will be interesting to see if it holds a charge. If not, then the battery is definitely bad.
The question becomes whether the bad battery is the only bad item, or whether it is the power management controller also.
Prius battery charge display is not very meaningful. Those line bars are not telling me much.
View 1 RepliesMy sister owns a 2004 Kia Amanti. The battery will not hold a charge. The battery has been replaced several times. the alternator and regular and anything else that could drain the battery has been checked. All ground posts have been cleaned. At first the battery would go dead every 3 to 5 days but now you have to start the car every day or it will die. They say there is a 7ohm drain on the battery that can't be located. The latest suggestion is to replace the wiring in the driver's side door. What would be causing this?
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