Can a front brake job (pads and rotors) and an alignment cause the ABS Light (code 2200) to go on? I went to pick up the car and the mechanic said it was a coincidence that the light is on after the brake and alignment job. The light was not on before I brought the car (2008 Dodge Caravan) in but went on a few hours after the job was completed.
View 4 Replies98 dodge caravan 3.3L v6 ..... All lights work including driver's side tail lights. only problem is that when pressing brake pedal, the driver's side brake light does not light up. i changed the bulb and checked the brake light fuse under the hood, but it was fine (as i guessed since the passenger side and middle brake lights work). I took the assembly off and reseated the connector to the tail light assembly, but same issue.
View 2 RepliesMy mechanic has diagnosed a trouble code P0601 (Internal Control Memory Fault) on my 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan. He and I feel the car is running fine. Do I need to get the PCM replaced (as I've been reading online) or can I drive it as is? We don't have emissions checks.
View 4 RepliesWe have a 2011 Dodge Caravan. There is a strange brake failure problem that only occurs once every 1-2 month. When the problem occurs, there is no resistance when we push the brake (the feeling is like pushing the gas pedal) and the car does not decelerate at all. We have to push the brake multiple times and we could hear the sound like pumping air. After that, the brake works normally again for another 1-2 months. Both my wife and I have experienced this failure multiple times so we are sure this is not the driver' fault.
We brought the car to Dodge dealer multiple times. The first and second time, they said that they could not find any problem. The third time, they replaced the master cylinder for brakes for about $900. One week later, the problem occurred again. This time, they said that the problem was hydraulic control unit and one door of the unit does not work properly. The repair cost will be another $700.
Do you think that this is really the root course of the problem? Is it worth to do another repair? Or we'd better just sell the car?
Vehicle: 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 Litre
I also have my CE light on. Hooked up my reader and got the "P1491 Radiator Fan Control Relay" code. I have checked my rad fan fuse and it is okay. My attempt to locate the rad fan relay took me from the rad fan wire to a device that looks like a heat sink. It is located on the vehicle frame between the rad. and front grill. Is this the rad fan relay? If it is I'm not sure how I would replace it. It seems riveted to the frame.
I keep getting this code even after fixing hoses with leaks. I am guilty of over filling my gas tank all the time can this have damaged the vapor canister on my 2001 dodge caravan....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2012 dodge caravan bought new. After about 6000 miles the left rear brake began making a grinding noise, only when applied, every time the car sat more than a few hours, that goes away after about 2-3 miles. It began in winter and continues into the warm and dry days of spring now with 9000 miles total. Had it to dealer twice and inspection found no malfunction so they say its from rust build up because it goes away all the time and is nothing to worry about. It does not occur with the other wheels. My niece has the same van, in same geographic area and does not have this problem. Does this selective rust build up explanation make sense? Previously burned with bad brakes on a caravan, so am skeptical.
View 7 RepliesWe recently had some oil leaks fixed on my wife's 2002 Dodge Caravan. The oil light comes on whenever she stops at a stoplight. It seems like it comes on when the RPM drops to about 600 or 700 RPM and then goes off when RPM increases. Is this something to worry about? If so what needs to be fixed?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2005 dodge caravan auto trans the air bag light stays on hooked it to a computer it reads driver seat belt tensioner circuit open I have replaced both ends of the seat belt but it is still on what could be wrong?
View 2 RepliesI have 05 Caravan, 4 cyl, 115k. Runs fine (just got back from a 2000 mile trip) that seems to have a quirk or something with the AC.
When I have the AC on and stop at a light, it feels like it hesitates several times. I almost think it'll stall (never has). I usually end up turning off the AC while we're at the light, and start it back up when I accelerate. When the AC is off, there is no hesitation. Also, If I put it in park, and we have the AC on, no problem. I rarely, if ever, have the recirculation going.
One thing of note: I usually wait until I'm out of our neighborhood and on the main street before turning it on. That means the windows are down until I turn it on. When I do, occasionally I hear a sound that best can be described as similar to the sound of loosening a tight lug nut. Still, as long as I'm driving, there is no hesitation and it cools fine.
The "check engine soon" light appeared yesterday on this nice running 1997 van with 167K. An auto parts store code check indicated a problem with the oxygen sensor. Is this something I can replace myself--a lightweight shade tree mechanic? I never seem to have any luck asking questions on the Mopar website.
View 10 RepliesOwn a 2005 Carvan. Yesterday, the door warning light; the odometer; and the doom light came on and would not shut off. It's as if the car thinks one of the doors are ajar-they are not. We turned the doom light off but the battery went dead overnight-reading lights either came on or I didn't notice them. Is this a sensor problem that I can fix or try to fix. If not, what sort of problem is it and how much to repair. The day before this happened, my drivers side window was left open and rain came in on the door panel-if this has any bearing.
View 1 RepliesI have an intermittent brake noise, which sounds like rubber rubbing against rubber. There is no discernable effect on the brakes, pulling, etc. My mechanic can find noting wrong with the brakes.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Dodge Caravan that when I drive at highway speeds and it's wet out, my air bad light comes on and about 50% of the time, the radio, fan, windshield wipers, and 12v outlet stop working suggesting the fuse or some other wiring is getting wet. The dealer cannot replicate and will not suggest any fixes. What do I have my local mechanic replace or seal?
I know there's a Chrysler recall on 2005-2006 Caravans, #J38, but my Caravan falls outside the specs by 2 mths (it was for vehicles in service between Jan 2005 and April 2006).
I'm working on a 2008 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L Brake warning light (!) on dash is on. Datastream on my OTC Genisys shows that the Brake fluid level switch is 'ON'.
The van does not have pad wear indicators; fluid is full; there are no leaks in the system; no brake pull, uneven braking or other performance issues.
Scantool says Park Brake is off and I disconnected it to be sure.
When checking connector at switch on the master, one wire has continuity to ground and the other has about 12.5V on the DMM but won't light my test light.
Sone water from the air conditioner drains on the carpet on the right side of the car. The drain hose is open and water in draining from it. Where could I look to find the problem? It is a 2003 caravan
View 1 RepliesI just had all 6 fuel injectors changed as they were rusted. But the 4 and 6 are still miss firing. I am going through gas more than I should. I had the EGR replaced as it was stuck open. I do not want to pour more big money into this thing. What can I do. Sea foam is not working. Could it be another problem. I am starting not to trust the mechanics.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2005 Dodge Caravan. I drive very little locally - usually just a couple of miles a week. But every couple of months I drive an hour and a half away to THE BIG CITY. Last week I took such a trip, and coming home I noticed my van was making a "jingley" noise. Just like the sleigh bells in the barn. With the windows open I can't tell where the noise is coming from. And it isn't associated with the a/c, since the a/c was off when the noise started.
Since then when I take my little local trips it only made the noise once - when I went over 35 mph. Usually drive slower locally. So, I don't know whether the problem is associated with length of drive time or speed, but I'm thinking it's associated with a higher speed.
Yes, I have an apt. with a mechanic, but I can't get in to see him until the middle of next week.
I was asked to look at this Dakota because the Brake warning light and the ABS lights come on.
I get no stored codes with my code reader, and upon test driving it I found that the lights both go off when you shut off the truck, but each time you start up and drive off....those two lights will come on the first time you hit about 30mph and then stay on until you shut off the truck again. Restart and the lights are off until you drive off and hit about 30mph again.
Backing out of the shop, stopping, turning around, down the driveway 50yds and stopping at the road....the lights stay off, even though I just used the brakes three times at least. Get on the road and hit 30mph and they go on.
The two fuses, one in the fuse block by the drivers door and the other (ABS) fuse in the Power distribution box test good.Both brake lights work at the rear as does the high mount brake light. Fluid is at the full mark.
I pulled all four wheels and drums on the back and inspected everything and everything looks good and the E brake cables are intact and working as they should. Brakes were replaced (not by me) and have a little wear, but plenty of material left. No leaks of any lines, calipers, or cylinders. Front rotors are not scored from a sticky caliper, they do have a little minor rusting but because it has been idle for a few months.
I have the same year and drive train in my Dakota. Their truck has about the same stopping power as mine, but I did notice that I did not feel the surging in the ABS as I feel in my truck. I tested this by traveling at about 40mph with the passenger wheels in the gravel and drivers wheels on the pavement and applied the brakes hard. In my truck I felt the surging, but not in theirs. Note that my truck has a tall cap and always carries an extra 800 pounds of gear in the back.Maybe the heavier weight makes my ABS kick in quicker, but I would think weight wouldn't matter.....one wheel is slipping...period.
My dad has a 2007 dodge ram 5.7 hemi and recently the check engine light has been staying on at first it was fuel door open now that's gone but the check engine is there went to get the code read and was told something about a fuel leak evaporator leak the cap or a vacuum line the cap was tested it was good?
View 1 RepliesI've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.