Dodge - Caravan :: 2012 - Left Rear Brake Began Making Grinding Noise Only When Applied
May 23, 2013
I have a 2012 dodge caravan bought new. After about 6000 miles the left rear brake began making a grinding noise, only when applied, every time the car sat more than a few hours, that goes away after about 2-3 miles. It began in winter and continues into the warm and dry days of spring now with 9000 miles total. Had it to dealer twice and inspection found no malfunction so they say its from rust build up because it goes away all the time and is nothing to worry about. It does not occur with the other wheels. My niece has the same van, in same geographic area and does not have this problem. Does this selective rust build up explanation make sense? Previously burned with bad brakes on a caravan, so am skeptical.
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My right rear brake is making a grinding noise when the brakes are applied. I took the drum off a couple weeks ago and the shoes are just a bit worn. Just getting into the numbers printed on the side of the shoe material.
I could not see any thing that would be making the metal on metal sound. Are there any wear indicators on the OEM shoes?
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Is it just me or is this an ABS thing? during a snow storm i was going about 25mph and had applied the breaks and started making a grinding noise... if it is the abs how are you suppose to work with the response time for a quicker stop.
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I have a 2012 Rav4 and I have been hearing a creaking/groaning sound coming from the front left brake when I apply it lightly. It gets worse as it heats up. It sounds exactly like the brake in this youtube video.
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Just over 7000 miles all of a sudden I got this loud grinding noise in the rear end like a brake locked up. Pulled into a parking lot. Don't think it's brakes. Put the truck in reverse it got even louder for a second then it quieted down after that. Naturally this happened on a Saturday.
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Notice a clunk noise when brake applied and first it seems when the car is turning right, but now I think as long as the surface is uneven it would do that as long as the brake is applied at the same time. It's a 2014 Sport Ltd.
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The other day I hit a good size bump at speed, slightly bent a wheel which I didn't even notice at first. The car drove straight and had no other symptoms, thought everything was okay. A couple days later I heard a weird grinding noise while making a left hand turn, it was so faint I honestly thought it was the fender liner. After the noises continued and further examination I noticed that the carrier is rubbing the rotor on the lower drivers side corner.
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I bought a 2012 honda civic HF, now has 1000 miles. I hear a clunk when I release the pedal. I heard the same noise on another car that was on the dealer's lot. The dealership has not been useful with fixing this issue; they said the clunk is normal. Honda has not been all that supportive. What is making this sound and what can I do about this?
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My 2015 Gs 350 F sport started making grinding noise from the front passanger side wheel. The noise comes from driving and not braking so im assuming its not the brake pads and its not squeaking noises as a worn out brake will sound.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla and it's making a loud grinding metallic noise on the front left side. It does it while I drive the faster I go the louder it gets. When I turn to the left it makes it louder, when I turn right the noise decreases. PG&E have been breaking the roads by where I live and there's a lot of little rocks I drive thru. I'm wondering if that's the problem?? What do I do?
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My car came back from the shop yesterday with new brakes and pads and seems to be making some odd noises, both at low speeds and while breaking. I called the shop this morning and they said that this sound was normal for awhile but to come back in a week if it persists. Is this sound advice, or should I be driving my car right back to the shop?
2005 Hyundai Tucson 122,000 miles
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I've had this '96 Dodge Caravan for just over a year now and suddenly I go to try and start it and it will almost start but then stop. All my dash comes on like it supposed to but when I turn my key it just stuggles and makes a grinding noise. The only thing i know is my common sense is saying if it makes grinding noise dont keep trying you'll make things worse.
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I have 23, 400 miles on my Kia Sportage 2009 and just found out I need to replace both of my rear brakes.They were making grinding noise. Is this a defect? Seems like low mileage to have to replace them?Also my front brakes are down to 50%. Is this a known KIA issue?
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So here I am with my 1996 Dodge grand caravan that I purchased new in 1995 for a whopping 30k. Yeah hind site is 20/20 skip forward to mile 102k transmission fails completely. Had to have it towed in to shop, rebuilt tranny put in... skip ahead another 4 years to mile 173k and transmission fails again. Again on a tow truck to the shop and ANOTHER tranny rebuild. So now I am at mile 182k and transmission is making a horrible shudder and I have moved across the country away from original shop that did last trans repair (who says they only warranty if I come back to them) and I am possibly looking at another repair or replacement. What is the deal with these vans?
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Having problem with left turn signal problem on my 2005 Dodge Caravan. It only works sometimes, so I don't think it's a problem with the bulb. I read elsewhere that it could be a problem with the flasher module but how to find this on my van. What I should check for first and how/where to find it on my van?
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I have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
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My front left door, when opening and closing, makes that grinding/clicking/popping type noise coming from the hinges (I'm guessing)...I'm searching for the correct word to use to describe it...like when the door would be off kilter or something and the metal is catching...if that makes sense...you can hear it when moving the door, not just at the halfway point of being opened/closed where it will stay in that position ... There has been no damage to that area...no weight put down on door when opened...and it started out of nowhere.
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I have an intermittent brake noise, which sounds like rubber rubbing against rubber. There is no discernable effect on the brakes, pulling, etc. My mechanic can find noting wrong with the brakes.
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I recently bought an 07 Dodge Grand Caravan and noticed that when we shut the rear door(trunk? hatch? whatchamacallit?) it makes an incredibly loud noise...almost like a gunshot. It seems as though the back glass is lifting off a bit and then slamming down. Is that something I can fix on my own?
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I get a grinding type of sound when I am braking but only when I come to a complete stop and then again when I release the brake. It is only for a second but it is loud and doesn't sound good. What could be wrong. It also is much worse when it rains.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan. The blinkers have stopped working...sometimes. Sometimes I put the right blinker on and the left starts blinking, sometimes both left and right work normally, but most of the time neither work. The hazards work all of the time. What I should do, or where to begin.
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