Dodge - Caravan :: 2006 - Broken Wheel Bolts
Apr 29, 2012
The last 2 times I have taken my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan in for tire rotation, the service guy informed me that I had a broken bolt (one of the five) that holds the front wheel on. One time it was a left front wheel, next the right front wheel. They replaced the bolts and lug nuts. I told this to lots of people and no one has ever heard of wheel bolts breaking - on any car! I have rotated the tires regularly at other establishments and have never had this problem. My question: Is this unusual? A known problem with Dodges. Am I being "taken for a ride" by the dealer?
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I've called to be on the show but never get through. But for the first time I cannot get an answer to my question from any mechanic. I have a 06 dodge caravan minivan which stalls after putting gas in the tank. After a few seconds it starts up again and operates normally for the rest of the tank. I've tried filling it, filling halfway and even putting in only a few dollars worth.
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My girlfriend hit a cow head on with her 2006 caravan around 6months ago. The van was repaired, the cow wasn't as lucky. But every since the repair the van pulls hard to the right at any speed.
She had two alignments done with no correction; never following up for some reason with the mechanic. I just had it aligned and still had the same issue. I'm currently arranging for the vehicle to go back to the shop. (I can't believe I didn't have them test drive it) The alignment according the mechanic indicated that it was off slightly but he suggested that the tires were severely worn and could play into the pulling. He is 100% correct in that the tires are worn.
My concern is that the girlfriend wants new snow tires and I'm afraid to have her order new ones on without the steering issue being corrected. Considering how her current tires look. I read that I should swap the front tires to see if the direction changes if at all. Is there anything else to look for personally or to suggest with my mechanic? Why wouldn't a alignment pick up the severe pulling in the steering? Did the mechanic do a thorough job. I'm thinking not.
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My 05 Caravan is in excellent shape with only 40k miles and noticed rust and paint bubbles only on the lower front side of the rear wheel well (drivers side). I live in Pa and wash the car after snow storms. Of course the car is out of rust warranty and the dealer said they can repair it but they do not know what causes it. I have seen this exact problem on other caravans and I have been told it is were the two pieces of metal are joined together, the wheel well seam, which causes the problem. We sealed the seam last fall with silicon when it was just paint bubbles and now it has gotten worse. My thinking is either we need to go back and look at the seam again as we only sealed the section that looked open or there is a leak from somewhere else in the van - the gas cap area or the area on the frame when the door is open is suspect to me. Basically I am asking if there is anywhere else I should look for this leak besides the wheel well seam?
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, My AC unit works great. With the heater, it will work for 2-3 minutes, at which point it starts to blow cool air. I can leave it running, but it never gets warm again, if I turn the fan off for 3-5 minutes, when I turn it back on, I get a good amount of heat that goes for about 2-3 minutes before blowing cold air again.
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I'm having electrical issues in my 2006 Dodge Caravan. It started with the radio not working (even though the lights around the nobs and buttons light up) and the lock button doesn't work until the van is started. Now, the windshield wiper won't turn off, even after the van has been turned off.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, on two separate occasions the headlights turned off and we could not get them on for several minutes. And on one occasion we couldn't turn them on. Now they seem to be working fine right now. The bulbs seem to be okay, I was thinking maybe a relay but I can't find a relay for the headlights. What it could be?
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It's leaking antifreeze directly under the radiator before I pull out the radiator could it be something else, it's hard to see without putting it up a lift just what else it could be like the water pump or hoses or connections stuff like that.
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When I drive through large puddles, or in the rain, my car doesn't turn. I believe this may be because my Splash Guard is missing.
I keep looking online to get a replacement, and they have one that looks exact, and another I have no clue if this would be the same or if it is a different piece all together.
The picture attached at 1.jpg is the one that looks exactly as the one that is gone from my car.
The second, is the one that I keep finding when I type in replacement splash guard.
Can this one be a proper substitute?
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I have a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with the 3.8 and 135,000 miles. Whenever it is hot out and the engine has been running it is hard to shift either from park or back into park. Today it completely froze on me and I had to wait for it to cool down before it would shift into park. Temp out is about 80 today.
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I get a grinding type of sound when I am braking but only when I come to a complete stop and then again when I release the brake. It is only for a second but it is loud and doesn't sound good. What could be wrong. It also is much worse when it rains.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan that when I drive at highway speeds and it's wet out, my air bad light comes on and about 50% of the time, the radio, fan, windshield wipers, and 12v outlet stop working suggesting the fuse or some other wiring is getting wet. The dealer cannot replicate and will not suggest any fixes. What do I have my local mechanic replace or seal?
I know there's a Chrysler recall on 2005-2006 Caravans, #J38, but my Caravan falls outside the specs by 2 mths (it was for vehicles in service between Jan 2005 and April 2006).
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Just bought a 03, the seller showed me a exhaust leak. I found a bolt broken off, flush with the head. Looked at the passenger side when I got home, that side leaks too, and found one broken off bolt there too. Question, are these easy to do? As in, I have extracted broken bolts before, but they where on my V10 and I could just weld nuts to them and they came right out.
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I have a 97 f350 crew cab xl stock everything. 351 windsor in it I do believe. as of right now He is broken down pulled apart in my garage. Due to a much requested headgasket replacement. In any event long story short I got him all apart to discover that there was someone in it before me & had broken the infamous exhaust manifold bolts (5) and two of the lower intake bolts, (of course I've tried the correct route in removing these broken bolts/studs but again the year of the truck (1997) & its bone stock no way their moving...
So of course I tried the next best thing (on a budget) which is to drill them out, but I went to far into the exhaust manifold bolt holes, And now I believe that I've ruined the heads is this so? If so who knows where i can get a decent set of bolt on heads ready to go. yes this is my daily driver & since He's been down I've been going deeper in dept.
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2010 Elantra, broken front right wheel stud. I removed the rotor and it looks like there's not enough room to R & R without removing the whole hub assembly due to the dust shield. Is this correct?
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I've got the dreaded broken exhaust manifold studs on my 2004 F250 V10. I don't drive it much (just 50,000 miles in 10 years) and confess I've ignored the hissing for quite a while. Is there really a permanent fix for these broken studs? Or should I expect to be replacing broken studs every 2 or 3 years?
If there is a permanent fix what is it? Special studs? Special manifold? I want to keep this truck a long time and don't want to be replacing these studs every few years.
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While diagnosing a low power and misfire condition on my 04.5, I was measuring coil resistance at the injector connectors. Found 1,3,7 had open circuits for one of the solenoids. 3 bad injector coils and no codes, no contribution codes... Why?
Anyway, pulled it apart to find the spool valves of 1 and 3 came out with the oil log the small bolts that hold them to the bodies had broken off. #7 only 1 bolt had broken off and the other was there but loose.
I got this truck with no history, and Had a variety of issues, like a bad fuse box that caused a no start, massive amounts of water in the fuel, and it had sat for 6 months untouched before I got it. I took care of the previous problems search for my previous posts if interested.
So what caused the spool valve to get blown off the bodies? I'm not sure if these have been rebuilt or ever removed, truck has 135 k. Could it be the water in the fuel that seized the intensifier piston?
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I have searched and I can only find instructions for the front. The rear is completely different right? I am assuming I need to remove the disk rotor. Can I pound out the broken stud with a sledge hammer and will the new one just fit in from behind or is there more to it?
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I recently bought a 2010 accent 4 dr. and broke a rear wheel stud. The local auto parts store lists front studs and I was told they cannot get rear ones. What is the difference?
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Our F-450 with 102000 miles lost both turbos also broken exhaust manifold bolts. This truck carries tools fuel tank and sometimes skid loader on trailer. Heard lots of bad things about 6.4 liter motor now first hand experience. Asked dealer if 6500.00 bill could be reduced since so close to 100000 mile warranty and was told nothing could be done. Can not afford to sell truck now also have two other Ford F-250s newest one 2012. Is there any other approach that could be taken to get some relief from this expense.
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I have a 97 Expedition with the 5.4 engine and 160k miles. Recently while having other work done I was told that I had an exhaust manifold leak due to broken rusted bolts.
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