Dodge - Caravan :: 1999 - Moisture In Heating And Cooling System / Windshield Fogging
Oct 9, 2014
I drive two 1999 Caravans, a base model and a Sport. With both I have a persistent problem with moisture in the heating/cooling system. When I turn it on, it smells and feels moist (not like coolant), heat or A/C, summer or winter. I have pressure tested, no leaks. I have replaced heater cores, o ring seals, checked the condensate drains for blockages, replaced the metal tubes that go through the firewall on one car. There is no moisture coming from the outside. The windshield starts fogging at about 34 degrees and gets so bad when it is colder that the defroster full on with the A/C on cannot completely clear the inside glass. Really cold (for us) 20s and the windshield is so fogged that driving is scary. When I drive into a cold spot in winter, sometimes the whole windshield will fog in a few moments-- that's with the defroster on.
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I just bought a 2006 Lexus GS300 AWD. Bought it with 99k from a older gentleman who seemed like he took really care of the car. Gave me all type of Lexus dealership service receipts. I recently noticed that the driver side seat heating and cooling doesn't work right, passenger seat works fine. I haven't checked the fuses yet just wanted to get some opinions before getting into it.
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2007. Blower motor not working. Replaced 2 fuses for blower motor and relay. Blower motor working. Horrible racket and steam coming from under car when I engaged car. I took the fuses back out. Air conditioner stuck on. I had to take the Compressor fuse out also. Car drives fine just have no heat/air.
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I have a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan that has 195,000 miles. My radiator fan won't turn on and I'm stumped! The issue presented itself with a check engine light and the radiator cooling fan not turning on. The trouble code indicated the cooling fan relay was faulty. In all cases below, I tested the radiator fan by turning on the air conditioning (thus forcing the cooling fans to run) and also for it to come up to a high temperature coming close to the danger zone.
1. Fuse - first tested the fuse and it was OK. Had to start with simple things first.
2. Cooling fan relay - I replaced the relay which has a reputation for failing on the Dodge. Still the fan did not kick in.
3. Cooling fans - tested the cooling fans and the motor was seized. Replaced the cooling fans and tested them by jumping them. The cooling fans still do not turn on. There is no voltage leaving the cooling fan relay and coming into the cooling fan harness.
4. Wiring - tested the wiring between the relay and the fans. They checked out OK (good continuity and resistance check). There is no voltage leaving the cooling fan relay. Now it's getting more complicated... I unplugged the wiring harness from the ECM and tested the wiring between the ECM and the cooling fan relay. A-OK.
5. ECM - it is unclear how to check the ECM for functionality of the cooling fan.
There are 3 wires (supply, ground, and switch wire?) The supply voltage and ground is good, but I don't know what voltage the switch wire should be. I've read that it is pulse width modulated so I can't measure this with a simple voltmeter. I've also read that the switch wire goes to ground thus triggering the relay. I don't know which is correct. Several mechanics I talked to were skeptical that the issue is with the ECM, they knew of very few instances of this being the culprit. I even replaced the new cooling fan relay with another new cooling fan relay on the off chance that the replacement was faulty. Did I miss something in my logic and diagnostics? I've resorted to wiring a switch directly to the cooling fans and toggling them on and off.
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The air/heating system in my Dodge Grand Caravan (2011) has been turning on by itself. Sometimes, it will turn on repeatedly (full blast) three or four times within 10 minutes and sometimes it turns on literally every 5 seconds... I turn it off... 5 seconds later, it comes back on. This can go on for as long as I am in the car.
Also, when it comes on and turn it down, it just turns itself back on full blast again. It seems to start in the back of the van (when it first comes on) and then when I get the rear off, the front stays on. Once I finally get that off, the rear will come again within a matter of moments. It doesn't matter if I have the A/C or the heat on... It does it either way.
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I bought some stock headlights that were retrofitted with projectors. The re-seals seem on but after a decent rain the right side light is completely fogged inside. I have taken the back cap off and it will dry out after a day in the sun but should not do this. What's causing this and is it fixable or not??
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I'm having electrical issues in my 2006 Dodge Caravan. It started with the radio not working (even though the lights around the nobs and buttons light up) and the lock button doesn't work until the van is started. Now, the windshield wiper won't turn off, even after the van has been turned off.
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I just bought a new 2010 Prius IV and noticed after a good rain that the front left headlight assembly was showing some moisture fogging inside the lens. None of the other light assemblies showed any moisture.
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My 2004 Caravan lost power to windshield washer motor and headlights, after checking under fuse box, I swapped over the relay marked headlights washer , still nothing. I disconnected the power module at the front of the fuse box by removing four torx head screws. Removed it by rocking it a it out towards the front of the van. I cleaned the terminals and replaced it. Seems to have solved the problem .
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan that when I drive at highway speeds and it's wet out, my air bad light comes on and about 50% of the time, the radio, fan, windshield wipers, and 12v outlet stop working suggesting the fuse or some other wiring is getting wet. The dealer cannot replicate and will not suggest any fixes. What do I have my local mechanic replace or seal?
I know there's a Chrysler recall on 2005-2006 Caravans, #J38, but my Caravan falls outside the specs by 2 mths (it was for vehicles in service between Jan 2005 and April 2006).
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I have a 1995 Dodge Caravan with over 300,000 miles on it. There have been no repairs to the Power Steering system and it made no noises and did not ever leak prior to July 2011. The power steering system started leaking somewhere, so I went to a chain store shop. They replaced the pump citing that it had rusted through. However, the leaks continued. I took it back twice and they found nothing. An affiliate store determined that the problem was the steering rack and they replaced it and the recently replaced pump. They also said one hose that had a crimp clamp had worked loose and the rack seals were shot. My question: is it likely that the pump and rack failed within a three month period independently? That's what the chain store district manager concluded.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Neon and recently had transmission work done on the car. When I got the car back the radiator cap was left loose, I didn't know this until I took the car for a drive and it overheated. I let the car cool down, replaced the coolant, and made sure the cap was sealed down. The car now has a slow coolant leak, when I turn the car off I can see it drip underneath for about 2 minutes and then it stops. Also, after the car heats up to running temperature I get a burning rubber smell coming through the vents. What could this be? The car only has 70,000 miles on it and I would like to keep it going if I can.
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Having issues with the windshield constantly fogging up?
I love my car, but this is a large annoyance for me. It seems as though the heat is escaping from the engine bay and being ducted directly into the lower half of the windshield. I know it is occurring on the outside of the glass because I can wipe it off with the wipers, but it just keeps coming back. Sometimes, it's so bad that I can't even see the road...
I do have the APR Carbonio intake installed, and I'm wondering if the intake tube that parallels the windshield has a leak somewhere.
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Ok so it was 93 degrees and quite humid...guess around 65-70%, in Dallas. I got the fogging problem with 3 distinct circles on the windshield. I tried several settings.
Keeping the front dash (eye level) and feet level vents on seems to work abit. Keep the air away and from going to the windshield.
Then if it still fogs up...Hitting the 2 "Recir" buttons alternatively seems to work.
This may not work in FL , VW needs a better fix than just sealing those vents and stopping airflow to the windshield completely.
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No matter what I do the front windshield keeps fogging up? I have to run the wipers all the time,if I stop them I cant see at all.What to do to get clear windshield? granted it has been very humid in new York lately.
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My current issue is as such: I started my car the other evening after a long day at work to find that when I started the car (I always leave the heater/AC control in bi-level mode with the a/c on with the fan at low or not on at all, unless I need the floor heater or the defroster) the interior of the windshield as well as the side windows instantly became fogged up. It took close to 10 minutes for the windshield to defog. Upon arriving home from work, I checked the reservoir where the coolant is recirculated and found that it was bone dry.
After the vehicle had cooled down, I popped the radiator cap and indeed the radiator fluid level was down. I replaced close to a 3/4 gallon if not a tad bit more of 50/50 mix. The next morning I started the car and the problem was still there and it took a few minutes for the heater to heat the car. Last evening and then again this morning, after the engine cooled to ambient temp, i squeezed the upper and lower hoses and there was still coolant in both hoses and thought this was odd, but I started the car w/o the fan on and the problem seemed to go away, but I noticed it didn't take any time for the car to heat up. Taking all of these things into account, is this a heater core(no coolant in cabin) or water pump problem or simply a bad thermostat?
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I would like to be able to use the fan to bring in outside air with no heating or cooling. What I have been doing is turning the temp setting to Low and controlling the Fan Speed manually.
This seems to work unless the outside temp is too low, then it seems to be heating the air a bit, which I don't work. Is there a different way of doing this? I feel like I am missing something.
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I just had the 30,000 mile service at a dealership, replaced a leaking water pump, front and rear brakes. The car has just 30k miles on it so it hasn't needed anything major despite being 10 years old. Once I got it back the front windows and windshield are fogging up. It doesn't seem to matter if the car just started or has been going for a while. We have had temperature changes and humidity changes in the weather, neither makes a difference. I have to drive with the windshield defrost on all the time. The dealer said it isn't anything they did, but it started immediately after I got it back. Is it possible that they knocked something and broke it?
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I was riding down the interstate this morning and had my cruise control set at 70mph. all of a sudden the cruise just turn off. I went to hit the gas pedal and there was nothing. No check engine light or anything, no spit, no sputter. I pulled off the side of the interstate and attempted to start the van. the engine turns over fine, but no start. all lights, radio work fine. car has fuel. it did not run hot.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester and lately - it has on occasion had moisture on the inside of windshield - at the center and about 6 in. up and about 10 in wide. At first it was just moisture, but now has become something hard to wipe off with just my hand. The dealer has no clue. I had a bad heater core in a car years ago, could this be a similar problem.
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The temperature control doesn't change the air temperature on my 94 SL2. If I slide the control all the way to the red, the air blowing out doesn't get any hotter. If I slide it all the way to the blue with the AC button and the recirculating air buttons depressed, it doesn't get any cooler. The blower fan works fine, the AC is charged with refrigerant, the compressor looks like it is working, and all the related relays and fuses seem to be okay. I've taken the radio out and loosened the heat/air control. The cables for the vents and the temperature are both attached. Maybe the temp control cable is broken down the line somewhere.
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