07 Dodge Caliber 75K cvt 4cyl been to the dealer 3 times already, started with a single knock when turning the wheel to left or right if the car is not moving, they changed tie rods, struts and steering gear. Now the engine hesitates when the car is not moving and while turning the wheel to right or left. Im tired of taking it to the dealer cause they take 4 days to fix anything..
View 2 RepliesI've noticed for a few weeks now that sometimes when I'm driving the steering wheel will pull kind of hard to the right. It'll do it for a while and then it'll go to the left, or it'll just go straight. It started to wobble and shake last week. I had the tires rotated and balanced a few days ago. It revealed that one of the two original tires had a broken belt. I had it replaced and the car drove better.
Today I had to go out of town and I still felt the wheel pulling in my hand to the right for a little bit and some small vibration that stopped after some miles. I checked the wheels and I didn't see a nail or anything sticking out. This is a very basic Caliber. No RPM gauge, no electric windows, or door locks, not even cruise control. I've had it for three years now. I've changed all but one of the original tires. It has over 99,000 miles on it.
So I own a Dodge Caliber 2007 and it has about 170K miles. This car has been through a lot of trips from IN to PA and many other long trips. A few months ago it started to sound very odd. It's a four cylinder and it sounds like it is only running on three. I don't know too much about cars but the problems that it's facing is that sound for one, it is stuttering in a kind of way, like it's about to die. Also when I accelerate and make a sharp right turn it will start to die and will die on most occasions. This is very dangerous considering it has power steering and I can't maneuver when it does die. Also, I'm not sure if this is related at all, but the front left turn signal and the back right turn signal does not work. It isn't the lights as I have changed them 2 other times, I have been told it might be the computer module but I'm not sure.
View 18 RepliesMy AC hasn't been working for about a week now. It's just pushing heat, which makes sense with all of the hot weather. We did have a heavy downpour (torrential rain?) in the Cincinnati area about a week and a half ago. Is it possible water pushed up under my car and caused issues with the AC?
View 12 RepliesI've got a Dodge Caliber '07 that has a weird Click that happens most of the time when I start engaging the clutch, it doesn't happen when starting out in first gear, but when shifting to 2nd, 3rd and now as it's aging sometimes 4th and very infrequently 5th. It happens when I pass the friction point on the clutch and can feel it in the pedal - as a note - I've found that if I gingerly/slowly release the pedal through the friction point it won't do it most of the time.
It is fairly loud at lower gears, as I can sometimes hear it with the window open bouncing off buildings or things. I'm just wondering what this is?
I have asked at the dealership several times already about this - but the mechanic always reported nothing found and that it's normal for a transmission with that many km (I'm in Canada). I bought the car with 50,000 km and it has done it the whole time - I've now got 128,000 km.
My first thought was something with a bearing or something - as it almost sounds like the gear isn't quite in place and when the torque starts being transferred it clicks into place... I'm not sure - which is why I'm here!
My son had his engine replaced with a new engine due rod through engine. new engine had 4,000 miles. mechanic installed and check engine light was on. code showed o2 sensors needed to be replaced. these were replaced 2x and light still would not go off. It was taken to the dodge dealership in March 2011. ecu was found to be bad and was replaced. ecu continued to show bad o2 sensors. dealership replaced with manufacturer o2 sensors. code then showed "lean engine". The dealership could not even begin to tell us what was wrong unless they did more diagnostic testing for another $300 - 400 and that was not to fix the problem! Decided that was ridiculous. Took to an outside mechanic. Testing was done and showed that the fuel pump needed replaced. This was done. I don't believe anymore codes are coming up (this needs to be confirmed) but the engine light won't go off.
View 2 RepliesI have an odd issue. I bought my car used from the dealer. The fuel pump was replaced last December, as well as had an oil change. The fuel pump died right after the oil change but are seemingly unrelated since the pump was bad when i bought it. After the pump was replaced my van stated acting up over the next couple days. The fuel gauge would dance randomly. That has since settled down. Now when i make left turns, the rpms drop and i have to pump the had to get it going again or else it completely stalls out in the middle of an intersection. .. it had been steadily getting more frequent and only on left turns. Right turns runs fine.
View 3 RepliesMy 2007 Camry makes clunking noises when I turn the steering wheel to the left mostly. This happens most often when the weather is warm and hot but not during the winter time.
The noise seems to come only from around the steering wheel area inside my vehicle. Hence, I don't think it has to do with the CV Joints or anything like that but the steering wheel unit.
I have a 2007 Honda Pilot. 65K Miles.
Several months ago, when turning left, regardless of speed, my wife starting hearing a noise. It is not a knocking or harsh grinding noise, but a low grumble (I don't have a great word for it). It's definitely rotational, it doesn't get any louder as speed increases, but it obviously happens more often. It seems to come from the right side of the car, I originally thought it was from the wheel, but just now I had it jacked up and had a neighbor who works on cars look at it with me and now I'm not so sure.
When I described the problem to him, he first thought it was a CV joint, or possibly ball bearing. After a few minutes looking under the hood, he quickly ruled those out. Boots were in great condition, and he remarked that everything seems to be very solid around the wheel.
I thought that noise was a result of weight shift to the right side of the vehicle when making right-hand turns, but we had the car up on two jacks stands placed on the jack braces, turned the car on and gave it some gas with the wheels turned left, and you can definitely hear the noise with zero weight on the wheels or axles. When you straighten the wheel, the noise subsides.
The problem I am having started about a year ago, the car audio will suddenly shut off while playing, at first I could get a few minutes, then other times 30 minutes of audio playing, now I cannot even get a minute before it shuts itself off. What happens is the audio will play then it will start to cut out for a brief few seconds and get really low so that you can barely hear it. Then it completely cuts out and you can hear a small bass thump from the rear passenger speaker.
I thought it might have been a speaker issue so I disconnected both rear speakers, the same problem presented itself, however there was no bass thump (obviously as the speakers were disconnected).
It seemed like at first when it was really cold out out (-35C) it would stay on longer, now I cannot get any more than a minute regardless of temperature outside. The deck stays on and if I push the power button on and off it will come back for a brief second and shut right back off - Although when you try to turn it back on it has that really low muffled sound you can barely hear; seems like you have to wait at least 10 minutes before you can even regain 5 seconds of clear audio before shutting off.
I should also note that when the audio does cut out I am able to drop the volume knob and it shows the audio level decreasing, however it will not let me raise the audio level until I power on and off - It just gets stuck at whatever number the audio shut off at or I can lower the volume knob (not like it makes a difference since there is no audio coming out).
This is a factory deck in a Dodge Caliber 2010 SXT with absolutely no modifications to the cars audio or any other area.
My 2011 Dodge Caliber has been acting up and I am getting NO Where with the dealership. They keep telling me they can not figure out the problem, unless it does the same thing while it is there. But I feel unsafe driving my car, due to the fact it can happen at any given time. What happens is while driving it, all of a sudden you can not accelerate, you can have the pedal to the floor and nothing maybe 5 miles is all I get. This has happened twice now, and both time I took in it. The second time it happened all I did was start the car up. NOw how would you feel if you were driving and all of a sudden this happened to you. What if I'm driving and it happens when I go make a turn, and bam I get hit. Again this sucks and piss's me off. Oh yeah I only have 10,289 miles on it.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 Dodge Caliber manual transmission. When I shift the car (while driving) from 2nd into 3rd/4th/5th gear, I suddenly notice what sounds like a "grinding" noise that stays with the car while in those gears. It's clearly an abnormal noise and noticeable but not obnoxious. It does not occur in 1st or 2nd (although it seems that maybe at higher rpms in 2nd gear I begin to notice it coming, though maybe it's my imagination), but the second I shift to 3rd gear and give it gas, the noise shows up instantly. Now when I let my foot off the gas, the noise goes away 100%. The second I give it gas again, it comes back. Also I don't believe the noise increases or decreases in relation to the speed of the vehicle. It seems to stay constant no matter what speed I'm at, as long as I'm actively giving it gas.
It occurs every time I drive, but I don't notice any other weird noises or problems with the car and the clutch feels good. I haven't been able to find any leaking anywhere underneath the car. It has approx. 92,000 miles and is a 1.8 liter 4-cylinder. I've spoken with a few folks and I've been given the following ideas:
1) bad clutch/assembly (replace clutch kit)
2) bad throwout bearing
3) bad bearing inside transmission associated with 3rd,4th,5th gear rod (?)
4) low transmission oil, 3-5 gears not oiled enough and causing noise
5) maybe nothing to do with transmission at all?
I plan on taking the transmission apart this week with a mechanically-inclined friend of mine and if I have a good idea of what it could be, that may save us a lot of time by not having to take unnecessary things apart (ie. tranny vs bellhousing).
My 2010 Dodge Caliber has been leaking anti-freeze very slowly. I notice it when I start the car up and for the first minute I can actually smell the antifreeze coming through the vents when I have the air on. If I park the car and go in to the grocery store for a few minutes and start it up again the smell doesn't re-occur. I imagine I have a leak somewhere that is dripping onto the engine and when the car starts up from cold it burns it which is sending that smell through my vents.
I was told a while ago it could be the heater core, however I would assume that if it was the heater core I would have had a fog up on my window or a constant smell, not one that dissipates after a minute.
I had this problem last year except I was losing a lot of antifreeze (about a whole reservoir in 3 - 4 days. The problem was found to be a broken clamp on one of the hoses. This time however I cannot find any broken clamps or a source of the leak for that matter. I did notice that when I shut the car off the one time, and checked under the hood of the car I seen one air bubble spring up from the reservoir tank. I cannot see any signs of a leak from under the hood. However under the car I can see it is dripping from the frame, but not where it is coming from.
Here's the issue-We're in Wisconsin, and it has been cold lately.After not driving her car for about five days, my wife's 2008 Dodge Caliber would not start. It gave her a repeated clicking noise, and all the electrical inside the car came on. I jumped the car, and it started just fine, drove it around for about 30 minutes, no battery indicator on the dash, cut the engine, started it right back up. The next morning, the car would not start again- same situation, clicking noise, everything in the car working (but nothing was left on).I went and picked up a new battery, but was having trouble getting the old one out. This time, though, the car won't take a jump. I checked the electrolyte levels, and they appear fine. I let the car charge on the cables (which are nice ones, not cheap, thin ones) for 15 minutes and more, and the most I got out of the car was a weak attempt to turn over, but mostly just the repeated clicking noise. I can't even jump the thing to get it looked at, and its in a narrow alley that will make towing next to impossible.
View 6 RepliesIn July I noticed there was knocking in the front left wheel when that wheel was turning either left or right AND went over slight/heavy bumps..it sounded like some metal knocking....i had my mechanic put the car on the lift to check for any VISUAL problems, and he didnt find anything wrong...said it was probably the bushings inside...so yesterday the knocking got much worse and the ride sucked...so i put the car up again and found out that the left axle needed replacing, which i did..so the harsh ride went away but the left wheel knocking is still there...WHAT COULD THIS BE?? Im thinking that maybe it was this problem that caused my axle to break... [IMG] [URL].....
View 5 Replies2010 Sonata Sport. At first I thought it was a rock in one of my breaks but its gotten nothing but worse. I have a LOUD screeching noise from my front passenger wheel, it happens when I turn left and also when i use my breaks (but not every time). It started yesterday and has got nothing but worse. Literally seems the more i drive the worse it gets. There is no play in my steering wheel but there's always been a VERY MILD vibration in the wheel between 100 - 120 km/h. But then stops.
View 3 RepliesI am hearing a grinding noise when I turn the wheel to the left.. and when I straighten it again the noise goes away.. no noise at all when turning the wheel to the right. what could it be? 2006 Hyundai Santa Fe / 205,000 km's
View 4 RepliesI have a problem! I have only had my 07 gs awd for less than 2 months. I noticed this morning when I turn my wheel all the way to the left or right it makes a grinding or like metal on metal noise. My brakes were done only a year ago, and this noise only happens when I'm turned all the way to the right or left.
View 11 RepliesI bought an '08 Elantra about a month ago. A few weeks after buying it i noticed a creaking noise while turning the steering wheel to the left. It happens at low speeds or when stopped, but I haven't heard anything at high speeds. I can't tell for sure but it sounds closer to the inside of the car than the outside and will happen the entire time the steering wheel is turning to the left. No sound turning it to the right.
My brother liked my car so we test drove 3 other Elantras, 2 '08s and an '09. Two of them made the exact same noise. He ended up liking the one that didn't but after a while his started making the EXACT same noise too. I'm thinking this must be a common problem with the '07-'10 Elantras as all 4 cars had the same noise, but I can't find anything about it.
My right strut is bad and I'm having both front struts replaced Monday, so if it's something that can be done while he's doing the struts I'd like to find out before he takes everything apart so he doesn't have to do it twice.
When I move the wheel to the left, I get this metal grinding sound (similar to rust on brake rotors/worn down brake pads). It happens when the foot is off the brake and ONLY when the wheel is turned to the left.
View 1 RepliesI have 2016 camry 4 cyl have roughly 2300 miles and I'm noticing a click click while turning the steering wheel left or right while stationary and vehicle running sounds like it's coming from under the dash.
I've seen there is a tsb for other year camry intermediate shaft issue, my vehicle is lowered on eibach Springs and would hate to take back to dealer and have them blame it on the springs in a vehicle that has only 2,500 miles.