Dodge - Avenger :: OBD Code P0743 - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid
Dec 22, 2014
I have a 1997 Dodge Avenger ES that reads code P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. I've replaced the transmission control module, and filter. I've called the Dodge dealership and asked if the new transmission control module needs to be programmed. The service department said "Possibly" I said "Well it's shifting better than before. If there wasn't any firmware on it what would it do?" He said "My guess it that the car wouldn't shift." I asked if the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid visible once you remove the filter. He said "I'm not sure." Clearly, my car isn't going there. Then asked to be transfer to the Parts department to see if there was a part called Torque converter clutch solenoid. That answer was "No" there isn't a part listed called "Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid". What should I do or try?
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How can I fix the P0741 engine code? Vehicle has 100k mileage.
Some of the on and off symptoms: loss of power, doesn't go over 40mph on the bridge, rpm dramatically goes high at low speed, lower mpg.
I did a tune-up: [URL] .... 2Bplugs, engine, coolant, [URL] .... 2Bfluid, steering, ignition coils, short ram intake filter cleaned.
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Where is the plug on the transmission to disconnect the TCC solenoid? I am trying to diagnose a lockup issue and need to disable the clutch from engaging for a test run.
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I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
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I picked up a 2015 gs350 f sport in atomic silver / black. I'm excited to pull out of the parking lot and get on the road! Yeah, not so much. As I take a turn onto the road I notice it's very sluggish, like starting off in third gear sluggish. I eventually get up to speed and wander if the floor mat is stuck under the pedal or something, whatever. anything but the car is broken.
I eventually get up to speed. Everything is fine. I don't accelerate hard because the the car only has 12 miles on it. Otherwise it drives like it should. Off the freeway and at a stoplight with an incline. Start to go, same thing. I pull over, turn the ignition off and back on. Car is fine.
So later that night (43 miles on the ODO) CEL and Trac off lights up. Car will not get up over third gear. Make it another 2 miles home and park it. I'm pretty distraught.
Took it to the dealership, don't know what they are but 2 fault codes came up. One for a shift solenoid and another having to do with the torque converter. Under 100 miles on the ODO!
So I'm with a red ES loaner car. Never seen it on a brand new car.
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My girlfriend's 2001 cavalier has about 160k on it and about a week ago it started shifting harshly accelerating to highway speeds and the CEL came on along with the traction control/abs warning light. I pulled the OBD2 code and it was P0742, Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On. We took it to the transmission shop down the street the next day and they wanted $600 to diagnose. We called 'shenanigans' and decided she should take it to her regular shop. On the drive over the transmission shifted normally. Both shops noticed that the transmission cooler lines were rusty and seeping, but neither thought it was the cause of the problem. The shifting issue hasn't recurred even after a couple hundred miles during the week. She hasn't had the transmission fluid changed and doesn't know if it had been when she bought it about 80k miles ago. It seems to me that pre-emptively draining the fluid, changing the filter and refilling, especially to check for debris in the fluid, would make sense, especially if it was debris jamming the circuit that caused the error code in the first place.
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2006 F350 5.4L 5R110W
I've had the TCC solenoid replaced. Not long after, it locked up again. I had the whole solenoid body (including harness & sensors) replaced .....continues to run hot and eventually lock up. IIRC, it gives code P0743
Transmission shop seems to think it's an electrical issue outside the transmission and thus not something they can deal with.
I took it to a dealership and they said that if it was an electrical issue outside the transmission, it would be throwing codes every time I start it up....which it isn't. They would start be replacing the solenoid (and possibly the whole body) with 'brand new' parts.
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Girlfriend got a 98 ex. got a CEL for a torque converter clutch circuit. Changed out the TCC and the light is still on. I don't know what to do next.
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I have a 2001 Montana with 140,000 miles on it. I bought it used five years ago. The transmission is going out. The shop did a scan and found the torque converter clutch is sticking on. What this is? Should I make the repairs or ditch the van?
Good points: four new tires in December 2013; body is great; and minor maintenance repairs.
Bad points: the air conditioning is broken and the heat is forever terrible.
The van is currently at my regular shop and they do not do transmissions so I do not have an estimate or more information about the problem.
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I had a 2010 Dodge Avenger and going down I averaged about 70-75mph and got about 30 mph, coming back I bumped my speed up to about 79-83 and saw the gas mileage dip a bit. So how do you know what speed (Avg) wise while on the freeway to drive to maximize your fuel consumption? Also, what can you do while driving to maximize it? Going down I didn't have any windows open due to some rain and didn't run my AC just vent air. Coming back had the window open a bit and some vent air.
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2010 2.4L Dodge Avenger SXT... Last month my car started overheating while I was idling but was fine otherwise. About a week later my cars check engine light and my electronic throttle control light came on. I took it to an auto store immediately and did the diagnosis on it. It came up with P2181 Cooling system performance with no reported fixes. Few days later it started overheating while driving. It only took two or three blocks before in the red. Decided to go to the local dealership (didn't want to go there but car is still under warranty) and they said since my boyfriend had messed with it trying to see what was wrong it wasn't under warranty. They said the wrong kind of coolant was in and that i needed to replace my thermostat/ So we changed out the two thermostat and drained/replace new coolant. It is still is over heating.
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Already replaced the starter relay will not crank from the key but even when I jump the starter the car still wont start and the switch is in the on position I checked all the fuses and replaced the ecm ....
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I got new brakes put on a few months ago month (semi-metalic)... Any way anytime I drive and it is raining, when my car comes to a to a complete stop, and I hit the gas to shift into second gear my car sort of stutters like it doesn't want to shift but then it does.
I took it to two mechanics MULTIPLE times who even drove it in the rain and they couldn't find a single thing wrong. they hooked the transmission up to the computer and noticed nothing.
It has happened multiple times and its both been raining. Could it be the tires aren't gripping the road and that's why my cars shifting funny, like the tires aren't caught up?
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I have a 2010 dodge avenger sxt replaced fans but won't turn I connected everything back together still nothing....
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When you press on the accelerator the car feels very sluggish it only has 61,000 miles
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I have a 2008 dodge avenger that stalls without warning while I am driving. It happens without any warning signs, happens when I am driving and also when I stop the car. The dealer can't find a thing wrong with it. What's wrong with it? It starts right up after this happens and they tell me my vin number isn't part of a recall for a problem that I have read that other people have with their 2008 avengers.
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I bought an avenger that runs a little rough and I am trying to figure out if I have a fuel and air problem or a broken motor mount. In neutral or any other gear the car does not shake. In drive it shakes horrendously. Watching the engine as the car is put in drive the engine moves towards you a about 3 or so inches. Now with throttling the car takes a while to accelerate even after I stomp it on the highway to merge. On home roads I can let off the gas and the car will sustain itself at 25 to 30 mph. 1st gear is not very responsive. All other gears seem to be ok with acceleration. I am trying to find a good starting point.
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I bought a used 2009 Dodge Avenger and it did not have an owners manual with it and was wondering how do you reset the "change oil" warning light. The old way of turning on the ignition and pumping the gas pedal does not work on this model.
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2008 Dodge Avenger SXT Sedan GEMA 2.4L DOHC I4 / 4 speed automatic75,000 miles Moderately well taken care of (oil change every 3,000 miles, mostly follows recommended maintenance in owner's manual)
Symptoms:
*Car runs and drives fine while the car is in constant motion and decelerating.
*Rough and Slow Idle at a stop on the brakes with car in Drive. Engine speed will drop below ~400 RPM, then "kick" up to ~1,200 RPM, settle back to 'normal' idle ~800 RPM, repeat. I have suggested she put the car in Neutral at a stop to see if that changes anything, but I don't have feedback from her yet. One instance of seeing a puff of smoke from under the hood while the car was doing the above.
*When pulling away from a stop, the car will hesitate; that is the accelerator will be pressed but the throttle response will be delayed.
*When pulling away from a stop acceleration will be inconsistent; instead of rrrrrRRRRRRRRRR, it's more like rrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRR
*Couple instances where the car just shut off while she was parallel parking (low engine speed).
*One instance where the car did not start on first attempt. Started fine on second attempt.
*No Check Engine Light. The codes have been run.
Shop Visits (at an independent garage recommended by her roommate who's been going there for 5+ years, good reviews on yelp, and always busy):
*First visit: told her they put in a bottle of fuel system cleaner and to use a tank of high octane gas. That didn't really work.
*Second visit: cleaned the throttle body. That was 3 days ago, so far no conclusion either way.
Other repairs:
*The battery was checked (at O'Reilly) and replaced after the starting incident mentioned above. (5 year old car, seems about right).
*2 nights ago I told her to put in a bottle of HEET to get water out of the fuel system (California uses ethanol blend) and a bottle of Gumout Fuel System Cleaner and to fill up with premium gas (based on items below). Be sure to run that tank down to almost empty.
Things I could think of:
*Crankshaft/camshaft position sensor failing.
*Alternator failing (because this problem doesn't seem to exist at higher RPM's)
Research online: It seems that a number of people have similar problems with Chrysler products with this and the previous generation 2.4L engine but no clear conclusive repair. Some of the items mentioned:
*Idle Air Control (IAC)
*Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve
*New sparks plugs and wires. (not replaced but should be)
*New timing belt. Timing belt is one tooth off.
*Water in the Fuel System (hence, HEET)
*Dirty/Clogged Fuel System Component (hence, fuel system cleaner)
*Failing Fuel Pump
*Dirty/Clogged Air Filter (replaced per maintenance manual)
*Low Oil Pressure/Failing Oil Pump
*Additionally, there are no recalls against her VIN.
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Check engine light computer scan indicates intake manifold runner control valve stuck open. Will it damage the car to drive it in this condition and what does fixing it entail?
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I've a 2006 sonata 3.3 with 100k miles on it and recently it started going to limp mode leaving me in 3rd gear only after scanning it I've found code p0743 (TCC selonoid open/short circuit) what to check from here or can share any wiring diagrams for this particular circuit I'm not sure where to start. where is the wiring harness for that is located ? is it in the oil pan ? and if I wanted to pull the selonoid itself to check would it be something I can do myself ?
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