Dodge :: AC Stop Blowing And Speed Will Drop 3 - 5 Mph When Come Up To A Slight Hill
Sep 16, 2014
99 Dodge Ram 1500 Automatic 5.2L. Whenever I come up to even a slight hill the A/C will stop blowing and the vehicle speed will drop 3-5 mph and stay until after the top of the hill and will be sluggish to regain speed and A/C will blow again once original speed is achieved. No engine light or warning lights come on. What could be causing this problem?
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I have a 2000 Neon with about 170K miles on it. with in the last 2 weeks it has been having a problem with acceleration. When i start to drive the RPMs will get up to 4 before it will start to move. Also when i am drive and need to pick up speed the RPMs will also go up to about 4 before it starts to pick up speed, but will drop back down when the speed goes up. I have found a little oil in the spark plug tubes and will be changing the seals out, and I have cleaned to MAP sensor as will. What is going on with my acceleration.
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I have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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I have 2000 Grand Caravan w/ 3.3L, AT. When warmed up, in stop and go traffic, at lights, or in reverse for parking, the idle speed drops, the oil light flickers and unless shifted to neutral, stalls. I've replaced the fuel pump and filter. I've adjusted the idle screw on the throttle body to 700 rpm, where it stays when the van is cold or when stopping in normal driving. Someone suggested the oil pump, and I added motor honey, but no change in symptoms. There are no vacumn leaks evident. How do I keep the idle from sagging? Would this be a sensor issue?
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I just got my new up pipes put on as well as a 38R and pulling a hill hard my truck will hit about 22 psi then drop off slowly I have an electronic boost fooler wich has been on the truck since new pretty much but I don't get a CEL at all is this what I should be getting and I was on the 80hp tune? I ordered new boots and plenum inserts they just haven't got here yet. I know I had a leak before on my old up pipes because they rattled every now and then and I could see exhaust coming out of them when it was cold out but I could hit about the same 22 boost with my old setup. So pretty much nothing changed boost wise except it gets up to boost faster now. I would say it's defueling but I was always told the CEL would come on if that was the case.
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I have a 2012 Toyota Camry and I noticed that when I am on a slight upward hill, my Camry will slowly roll back if I don't have my brake pedal applied. Does this happen to you and is it normal? This is my first new car and my old car which was a 94 lincoln never did this even on very steep hills.
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Twice now, I've been parked on a very slight hill, nose up, the diesel levels are less than a quarter tank but still over the low level warning. When I start the car, it starts but then shuts off within a few seconds, the second time I try, it turns but no start, and then it basically shuts off and doesn't even turn. Both times, I've coasted down the hill a bit because it becomes flat and then it can start. I asked the dealership about it but they said I self diagnosed it.. and they didn't even look at it further.
I've never had this problem with any other VW I've owned in the pass. So far this car is starting to disapoint me.. mileage wise, it's fine and I love the wagon part but I've been having lots of small problems arise. My warranty is about to expire in another 15000km's and I'm wondering if I should even bother keeping it. It's my main car and I travel with it a lot for work. (65 000km's on it in 20 months). However, I'm finding it hard even thinking of another car to replace my VW.
(2010 VW golf wagon diesel)
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Is it normal for the GX 470 to roll backward on a slight hill when in drive and foot off the brake?
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I have a 2008 Rav 4. 86000 miles and serviced vigilantly. Before the warranty ran out it had a problem that no one could diagnose so now it's out of warranty and the problem is a lot worse, still no one has a definite diagnosis. What the problem could be.The rattle was very intermittent at 40mph going up a slight hill. If I took my foot off the accelerator and put it back on the noise went away. Now it is rattling quite a bit and not just at 40mph. I can still have it stop for a bit by taking my foot off the accelerator and putting it back on. My mechanic told me to try driving in 3rd gear. It has not rattled in 3rd gear yet. Toyota mechanic of 29years has never heard this noise before and neither has my mechanic so it is an unusual one. Toyota wants to do a transmission flush 3 times and then if that doesn't fix it will put in a new transmission. My mechanic thinks it is the transfer case. No one knows for sure.
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Braking down a hill and a sharp turn (in either direction) around 10mph results in a slight knock (1, not multiple). Is it normal? I have some suspension goodies to put on but i don't want to do that before getting any repairs done if necessary...
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I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
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Since about 5000 km, I have had a knocking metal rattling sound happening when I accelerate up a hill or a slight incline. It has happened a few times on flat road as well just more prevalent on the uphill battles. Now I assumed it was jus something loose that was rattling since I installed a cold air intake and had installed hid lights(I thought the ballast was banging on something). I tried and tried to find the rattle but I had no success. I read up on here about other people suffering the same problem and that running higher octane gas would solve it well I tried 89 and it was still there just not as much and I recently started using 91 and its gone haven't heard it at all.
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Was climbing a steep hill at 35 mph just before truck down shifted to 2nd, I was hearing a pinging sound. Sounded like only I cylinder was doing so. What it could be. I am currently running a 1/4 tank of Fppf fuel injector cleaner. Is this a injector noise. No knocking just a slight pinging.
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My neighbor has a 1995 Dodge Dakota 3.9L that I have been trying to get back in good reliable condition. It has the 3.9L V6, manual transmission, and is 2WD if that matters. It is a pretty basic truck and must have about the fewest options they had that year. It has air conditioning but no radio as it came this way from the factory.
It has an issue which I suspect is vacuum related. When you accelerate or climb a hill, the HVAC acts really crazy. The vents start blowing air and then stop. It doesn't do this on a flat surface but does it immediately when you accelerate or otherwise put the engine under greater load.
I have inspected all the vacuum lines and found nothing wrong. There have been some issues with mice building a nest in the air cleaner but I couldn't find anything chewed. Where to look?
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Just noticed today that I have a slight drop in boost. Normal boost is 1.5 bar but today it is running slightly lower boost and does not have the same pull through all the gears.
2001 mk4 1.9 tdi golf
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I've noticed that on cold starts after work, or in the mornings in start up my Santa fe's really rough at idle.. I'd like to say even slight hesitation when I take off.. I notice a drop in RPM and lately harder shifts out of first..
My sf is the 3.5 AWD w/ nav it's a month old with 2900 Kms on it..
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE with 51k miles (bought a couple of months ago).
It ran perfectly during the hot weather (75-80F) and it idles around 650rpm-670rpm. These couple of weeks, there have been very cold weather (60-70F) and it idles mostly around 650rpm but can drop to 630-640rpm. Sometimes, it will suddenly drop to around 612rpm (there will be a very slight shudder) and pick back up to 630rpm. This is with all accessories turned off.
If I turn on the windshield wiper, then every time it activates, it drops to around 612rpm and picks back up quickly. This only happens during cold weather.
I don't think it's the MAF sensor.. what it could be?
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My 2000 Dodge Grand caravan loses its gauges every so often. engine light comes on as well as ABS...
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I checked the owners manual and didn't see anything. I've noticed that when I stop on a hill and let off the brakes the car doesn't roll back. Its holding the brakes for me on an incline, I am assuming its normal, but kinda surprised I didn,t see anything in the owners manual or on the window sticker about it
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We purchased a new LaCrosse CXL in 2005. Its speedometer now shows 90,126 miles. The 5W-30 motor oil has been changed every 3,000 miles with no indication of oil loss until around 65,000 miles, when I began noticing a slight drop in oil level on the dipstick (about 1/4 quart) within the 1st 1,000miles following the scheduled oil changes. I then added enough oil to bring the oil level back to full. Within the next 1,000 miles, the oil level again shows oil loss of about 1/4 quart. This has continued over the last 4 years. The car is garaged, and I have never seen any sign of an oil leak on the floor. I have alsodriven behind the car several times, and have never seen any sign of oil smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. Both my Buick dealer and oil-change shop manager can offer no explanation as to why this oil leakage problem developed and continues. The oil shop manager says he has other Buick customers with the 3800 V-6 engine that complain about this same problem of engine oil loss.There have been no mechanical problems with the car and with the exception of the oil "leak" we have been well pleased with the car. Where is the oil going?
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