Dodge :: 2008 - Rear Passenger Wheel Squealing When Brakes Applied
Jun 13, 2012
I have been doing my own brakes for years. I have had some that were not easy to keep from squealing but this one has me wanting to get rid of the car. We have a 2008 Dodge Magnum R/T package. Roughly 38K miles on the car. When the car reached around 10K miles the rear passenger wheel would squeal when you applied the brake. Rotor surface was smooth as glass. I took off the rear rotors only and had them turned. Problem went away for about 5K miles. Then the fronts started squealing.
I replaced the fronts because hte factory did not leave any material to be turned and noted that Dodge glued the pads to the calipers like they would never need to come off. Problem went away for a little while. Then it came back with a vengeance. I replaced the pad material on the fronts with ThermoQuiet pads from Raybestos. Problem is coming back again and now I cannot tell which end of the car it is even coming from because it it so loud. My wife drives this car very carefully. My thought is she is polishing the rotors too smooth and this is our source of noise.
We are at the point of squealing again and I am at my wits end with this. If I light foot it, no noise. If I stop like I think it should be stopped, not killing it, the noise is there. If I stop very quickly about 3 to 5 times in a row the noise is gone for a little while until the pads cool and then it is back even if I am on the same journey.
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On the r32 there is a rattling noise coming from the right rear wheel. It's a very tinny sound and is definitely a metallic noise. The weird thing is as soon as you his the brake, it goes away. Even if you just lightly press on it, it stops. I took the wheel off, looked around for anything loose and found nothing. It's super loud though and completely embarrassing. My e36 bmw does the same exact thing as well and has done so for years, but its much quieter and not as often. On the mkiv its almost constant and at every speed.
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Here's my issue, after a full break job my right front brake began to grind. Curiously it wouldn't grind initially after breaking soon after start up. I could go on and slow break for quite a distance, but soon after a hard brake or just slow breaking long enough the grinding begins. I've taken the car back to Firestone three times and even after a few adjustments or cleaning the problem persist... I've starting to feel bad for Firestone and embarrassed to be holding on to this 99 Chevy. I can't continue to drive this small car that sounds like a MTA bus while braking.
But I digress... I did notice, purely by accident (or it may be a mere coincidence), a few times the ABS light came on and during those periods the grinding was less abrasive. This leads me closer to believing the issue is with the caliper.
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I bought my 06 Corolla LE last week and just started hearing a nasty squeaking sound whenever I applied the brakes. I took it to the dealer today and 4 hours later he calls me and tells me that he had to readjust my back brakes and lube them up and it should be fine..About a half hour into driving the car around town I start hearing this noise again. Now he's telling me to bring back in the morning to see what the issue is.
My question is besides the brake pads and rotors which were checked by another mechanic that said they were good what the hell could be the issue?
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Is it my wheel bearing, rotors or brake pads?
How do I describe it... well it has this squealing noise and it's proportional to my speed.
Heard this while I had my windows rolled down.
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So I have a 2003 Passat wagon. While driving down the road with no brake pressure applied the front right brake makes a squealing noise. As if the caliper doesn't release pressure....what should I do? Any hints?
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My Neon's rear driver's side drum brake keeps locking up without me hitting the brake pedal. I have changed the hardware, wheel cylinder, brake shoes, brake hose, and the drum itself. Once the brakes heat up, the brake will start to drag (that is what it feels like) and then will lock up the rear wheel. I have bled those brakes at least 3 times, so I don't think there is an air bubble in the line. This has been going on for the last 2 months. Someone told me that I might have gotten a bad batch of brake shoes. Another told me that there might still be an air bubble in the line.
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A couple of years ago I bought an older used pick up to pull our camper and do any general hauling I might need. It is an '04.5 (they made some changes mid model year) Dodge Ram 2500 turbo diesel. It was high miles when I bought it (hence the reason I could afford it) with upwards of 300k but that is about midlife for this type of truck so I wasn't worried. It has been a great truck over all with only odds and ends that you would expect from an older high mileage truck.
However, it has one issue that started not long after I bought it and persisted for about the first year I had it. When I apply the brakes the pedal hesitates before moving. The brakes work fine other than this but it is a bit unnerving when you hit the pedal and it doesn't move for a full second. It is only about a second and then it releases and works fine.
I thought the problem had gone away when it started braking normally for something like six months but lately it has started doing it again. I know it does this and plan accordingly so I have not had any close calls but still, I would like to fix this. I cannot find any data on this problem.
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I just put rear brakes on my 2008. The parts fit fine but the passenger side runs hot. Very hot after just five miles.
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my 99 s/w 2 started making a squeaking sound coming from the front right wheel area it goes away when I apply the brakes? is that one of those built in warning features to let you know the brake pads are getting low? the brakes have 86,000 miles on them.
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Yesterday I had my snow tires installed at Costco. Immediately afterward I noticed that the rear brakes squeak when I apply the brakes. I took the car back to Costco and asked them if they applied the proper torque or if anything unusual appeared during the change-over. They said no.... I loosened and retorqued the wheels and no change......they still squeak when I apply the brakes.
Questions: I assume there are wear indicators on the rear pads, could this be causing the squeeling? If so, aren't they supposed to squeel all the time when they reach their limit? I haven't inspected the wear yet...... What the tolerance is for the amount of lining on the pad. Could this be a rotor problem? I"m not feeling any pedal vibration.
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I just purchased a used 2007 Lexus GS 350 AWD. I had it inspected and there were some minor problems (air filter, small oil issue) but nothing big. Driving it, I've noticed that the wheel shakes a little bit when applying brakes and based on my google searches, it's likely a rotor problem. I've literally only driven the car less than 100 miles since it was inspected. Does the inspection place (Tires Plus) bear any responsibility for clearing the inspection on the car? Should I take the car to Tires Plus to look at or should I take it somewhere else?
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I have started hearing a noise with my brakes. First thing in the morning when I back up and apply the brakes, I get a clunk or pop noise from the left front wheel. It will pop again once I move forward and hit the brakes. It only does the noise one time when I first apply the brakes in either direction. Once the brakes have been used out on the road and are warm, there is no noise when changing directions. I've had this noise in another car I used to have and it was caused by the aftermarket brake pads not being exactly large enough and there was slight pad shifting in the caliper. Being this is a new car and has the OEM pads, I would hope there would be no pad shifting or movement in the calipers.
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Going down a steep loose gravel drive way, going maybe 5 miles per hour. About 50 feet before the stop sign we lightly applied the brakes and the front right wheel completely locked up. If we didn't turn into the grass we would of stopped in the middle of the busy street. We picked up speed when we applied the brakes, like we were on ice. When I got out, I could see the one long brake mark in the driveway. This happened on a paved road about 6 months ago, it had some loose gravel at the stop sign. I couldn't tell which wheel locked up at the time. This happened on snow in December to, twice. Since the ABS light never came on. Brake pads and rotors needed replacing about 9 months ago. Tires have been rotated, no change. Not sure what it could be. I disconnected the Abs fuse for now.
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2008 Passat Komfort Wagon with 34,500 miles. Started to get grinding sound when I applied brakes, which diminishes as I drive. Thought it was rust, but sound is very loud and sounds just like pads are gone and digging into rotors. The brake warning light is not on.
Dealer told me rear caliper was closing unevenly and recommended service---not covered by warranty of course. When I picked-up car same noise as before. The service manager told be that the car was just washed and the rust built up in the last hour---I could believe some built-up, but the sounds made my teeth ache. When we went for a test drive the noise got quiter, but was still apparent. The SM told me this is a "normal" noise. I have had many cars with disc brakes, dating back to a 1960 Jaguar; none have made this "normal" sound.
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I have recently had the rear brakes on 2001 Aurora replaced. When car is driven about 20 minutes, there is a rubbing sound from the rear when the brakes are applied. I have taken the car back to the shop and they said for some reason the new pads were worn and put new pads on thinking it was bad pads. The noise continues. Is there anything special that must be done on this car when the rear brakes are serviced? Are there special type of brake pads that must be used for rear disc brakes? I am just going to sell the car if I can't figure out how to fix this problem soon.
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The other day, I was coming home from work. After dropping off co worker, an old man pulled out infront of me. I applied the brakes. As car came to stop I heard a loud thump come from rear. Sounded like i was either bumped by a car, or maybe my entire rear end slid up 5 inches. But that's kinda what it was like. Then after the thump, I put my foot on gas pedal, and instead of car moving forward, the engine just revved. No movement, revved to like 3 grand. I let foot off gas pedal. And tried again. Car moved as normal. Then on the way home i attempted the same combo of rather quick brake and then gas. Same kinda thing happened. Not so hard of a thump. But noise from rear followed by the car no moving, just revving up till i stop and then try again. So even tho my story may suck n my explanation my suck more, whats going on? I just picked this wagon up. 01 glx 65k.
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I have a 2012 dodge caravan bought new. After about 6000 miles the left rear brake began making a grinding noise, only when applied, every time the car sat more than a few hours, that goes away after about 2-3 miles. It began in winter and continues into the warm and dry days of spring now with 9000 miles total. Had it to dealer twice and inspection found no malfunction so they say its from rust build up because it goes away all the time and is nothing to worry about. It does not occur with the other wheels. My niece has the same van, in same geographic area and does not have this problem. Does this selective rust build up explanation make sense? Previously burned with bad brakes on a caravan, so am skeptical.
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I have 2008 Hyundai Sonata. I hear some noise from front wheels when i turn to right or left with breaks applied. There is no any noise when turning without break. the cv joint has been replaced but no any result. Still there is noise.
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I just replaced my front brake pads and rotors. Car had no squeaking sounds before this. When changing the right front pads and rotor, the set screw that holds the rotor in place snapped on me when I tried to remove it. I drilled out the remaining screw and inserted an easy out / screw extractor to try to remove the broken screw. Screw wouldn't turn/budge and eventually the easy out snapped in half while trying to turn it. Here is where I fear I made a little problem into an even bigger one; I tried to remove the broken easy out by banging the back end (smaller end) of it with a hammer and screwdriver, hoping it would pop out from the front of the hub. No success, and continued using a lot of force to try to remove it from the rear part of the hub. Eventually I noticed the hub area by the back of the easy out bent a little from me using force from the rear to remove the easy out. I stopped there, bent the hub section back to original shape (didn't bend too much to begin with) and sawzawed off the protruding end of the easy out from behind.
After driving a few times I started noticing the squeaking sound coming from the front right wheel, the sound sounds like is in tune/harmony with the wheel rotation. As soon I step on the brakes, the sound stops. I had a similar sounding problem with a rear wheel a long time ago and it ended up being that the bearing needed adjustment. I know the front bearings are pressed in so they can't be adjusted. I am thinking the force used to try to remove the broken easy out damaged something with the hub or bearing or maybe the axle nut.
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Actually this started occurring at around 10k miles and I find it odd this would happen this early. It seems to happen more often on cold days and after a couple stops its gone. Why is this? I have heard of premature brake where on these cars and that braking power is biased towards the back under normal braking. I really do not how there is reduced brake dive using the brakes this way but its a vw. Is it just the stock pads that are bad?
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