Dodge :: 1991 - Cleaning Inside Of Engine
Aug 10, 2016
I recently had my 1991 Dodge D250 with a 5.9L gas engine serviced and they recommended an internal engine cleaning with a machine they hook it up to for $160. The truck does burn and leak oil and they said it would work for both. I have seen videos on the internet with an HHO machine that some people swear by and others calling it a scam. Can it cause damage? I also saw videos of putting water in the intake with similar comments that it works.
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2002 dodge grand caravan. We feel the heat from engine block inside the two front seats (driver and front passenger). We also feel heated wind (blowing strong) and smell coolant when standing outside the vehicle by the driver and front passenger door with the engine idling.
There's visual small leak, once the vehicle is parked. I wonder where the leak is (not on radiator and the radiator coolant level remains full). I bought Preston Radiator Complete Care and Stop Leaks. I haven't put it in yet, just wonder if this will work.
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I have a tank that's been out of my truck for a couple years. I want to clean it up real good inside before re-installing. Are there any products you can recommend that will give a deep clean on the inside to remove any gunk and some slight rust? Also, is there a product that should be used to coat the inside of the tank after it's been deep cleaned?
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I have a 1991 Dodge Dynasty with a 3.3 Liter engine & the serpentine belt keeps coming off. I have replaced the belt,idler pulley & belt tensioner. When the road is wet or winter slush (it happened once in dry hot weather) the belt will ride off.
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I bought a 1991 Dodge Shadow from a private owner and he told me it needed a trans mount but upon inspection the mount seems to be fine the car will shudder upon first acceleration and a louder shudder shifting from 1st to 2nd. So I was leaning more towards a cv axle rather than the transmission mount still not sure. Only have this problem under a load 60-65 mph seems to drive fine and no viberations!!!!
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I have a 1991 DODGE Dakota V6 3.9L FI with a TorqueFlite TF-6 A-500 4 speed RWD Automatic Transmission. Now, this truck is amazing and so is this transmission. It's been going for 22 years and about 400,000 miles and the bands in the tranny have never been replaced...EVER. The fluid filter has been replaced, once. Anyway...it's amazing, I mean the thing is still going strong after all this time and such low maintenance.
Anyway, I noticed a slight lack of acceleration, so as usual for an old automatic, I figured the bands might be slipping a bit. So I dug up the torque specs for it and performed the adjustments. Now, this is the funny part and I was not at all surprised to discover this. In fact, I'd had the hunch the entire time. I discovered that the bands are so old that they no longer respond properly to the recommended torque specs, so I had to guess work them. I did a bit of careful fiddling as I know just about everything there is to know about automatics and I understand perfectly the damage that can be caused when under/overtightening bands.
Anyway, I did some fiddling and got some interesting results that actually made me laugh to be honest, but I knew at first I wasn't quite doing it right. First gear was all right, but second kicked in a little late, and I felt a slip when third came around. So, I decided it was time for a moment of truth. What I ultimately ended up doing was tightening the bands to the recommended torque (in this case 72 inch lbs) and then slowly backing them off until I felt them let go, Then I put the proper torque on the locknuts (in this case 30 ft lbs).
Now, this tranny has two bands and a clutch pack, it has the low-reverse (rear) band, and the Kickdown(forward) band, and I believe the clutch pack is used to engage 3rd gear, because the rear band gives you 1st and rev, and the kickdown band gives you 2nd. After my ultimate adjustments, the kickdown band DID drag just a little for about a minute, but she quickly worked herself into a state where she's shifting better and accelerating better than she ever has before.
I'm amazed by this thing. I'm wondering if the kickdown band lets off when you hit 3rd gear? I know that when I feel the first kick, it's the KD band grabbing the front drum, which gives me second, but I'm wondering if it pulls simultaneously as third gear kicks in, or whether it stays tight against the drum?
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When I drive the 1991 Stealth for an extended period - more than 50 miles, at least, the car intermittently presents a loud rotational banging sound from the passenger side front end. If I depress the clutch peddle and decelerate, it slows down/stops. It is not a continous noise, and it only comes up every so many months. I have taken it to mechanics numerous times, and there have been guesses/fixes to address the problem, but it is still ocurring. Other than this, the car is in great shape and runs great!
Here is what has been done to the car that is relevant:
New Rack and Pinion Steering,
New Tie Rod(s),
New Brake Pads, Transmission Rebuilt, valve re-work.
It does not happen continuously, so it does not seem like it would be a CV joint., When it first starts to come on it is noticed most when turning. But then it gets louder and just does it even when going straight. When the problem first started happening, the transmission had been done within a month or two prior, and I noticed one of the transmission bolts was missing (front center bottom). I was told at that time this was not the issue and since the place where the bolt goes in was stripped, nothing cold be done to replace the bolt, except to take out and replace the entire mount.
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91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
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I am getting a code 36 which tells me it is "air switch solenoid switch". I am not sure what that is indicating or what it means. Is this something I can fix?
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Major screw up. Added steering fluid to brakes. Drove the car for about 300 miles. Car actually over-heated. Discovered the mistake after. Bleed brakes and added correct fluid. Not heating up now, but only bled the brakes one time. This is on my grandsons 91 Dynasty. Now worried the brakes are going to just go out.
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The truck will go into reverse, but will not go into drive or any of the other gears. When shifted into one of those gears, it just idles as though in neutral. This started as I was driving down the highway at approximate 70mph. The speedometer jumped up then fell to zero as the car slowed to a stop. There was no noise except the sound of rapid fuel intake and then it went to idling. I have been told it may be a speed sensor, but I was wondering if there was anyway to confirm that before I have the truck towed down to a mechanic and find out its more than I want to pay to fix it.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Charger that has a problem with the headlights and brake lights. When the brake light indicator inside the car comes on by itself, the headlights shut off and the heater will not shut off when its on and when this happens, then the signal lights blink real fast like a bulb is blown. This has been happening often. I haven't been able to drive at night. Checked with my mechanic and he couldn't figure it out.
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Here's the issue-We're in Wisconsin, and it has been cold lately.After not driving her car for about five days, my wife's 2008 Dodge Caliber would not start. It gave her a repeated clicking noise, and all the electrical inside the car came on. I jumped the car, and it started just fine, drove it around for about 30 minutes, no battery indicator on the dash, cut the engine, started it right back up. The next morning, the car would not start again- same situation, clicking noise, everything in the car working (but nothing was left on).I went and picked up a new battery, but was having trouble getting the old one out. This time, though, the car won't take a jump. I checked the electrolyte levels, and they appear fine. I let the car charge on the cables (which are nice ones, not cheap, thin ones) for 15 minutes and more, and the most I got out of the car was a weak attempt to turn over, but mostly just the repeated clicking noise. I can't even jump the thing to get it looked at, and its in a narrow alley that will make towing next to impossible.
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I have a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan. The door locks do not respond to the remote or the switch on the door. If I disconnect the battery for a few seconds, they will work for a day or two. It seems to be a computer problem. Is there only one? Where is it and are there any other tests I can do to troubleshoot this?
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Yesterday, while cleaning my Tig, my check engine light came on. I didn't know what it could be so I checked my oil. Sure enough, it was low. I actually checked the oil maybe 3 weeks ago and it was fine. I was looking at my instrument cluster at an angle and I couldn't see one. Since, I decided to check for fault codes too, none showed up.
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So I just did a little simple engine cleaning, didn't even really use a whole lot of degreaser. Any way, the car was smoking a little bit and figured it was normal wet gunk burning off, but then my car started smoking out of the exhaust pretty bad. What this could be!?!?
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Cleaned up the engine bay today and now my brake lights don't work. They may have not worked before this though, I'm not sure... was backing into my driveway and noticed the reflection in the window that they were not on.
Reverse lights, tail lights, and turn signals all work fine, just the 3rd brake light and the lower brake lights are inop. Checked all the fuses that are related to the brakes and they are all intact.
Is there anything under the hood that could have gotten wet and would cause the brake lights to suddenly stop working? I had a P0306 and a bit of a rought idle, but some contact cleaner and driving it for a bit cleared it up. I drove it for a bit but the brake light problem still remains.
I just spoke to my wife who drives the Excursion 95% of the time and she said that they haven't been working for some time now and she just neglected to tell me. I guess maybe it's the brake switch off of the pedal... what should I look for on that?
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I own an '07 SCrew with the 5.4L V8. The engine is very dusty and I want to clean it. Any best way to do this and any areas that I need to avoid getting wet..
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My hood insulation is ripped up and as one of those projects I never got around to. It has shredded and pieces are down in the valley and in the engine compartment. Some of it smells now because it has gotten hot. I would like to clean it out and replace the pad. What is the best way for me to clean it. Do I take it to a truck detailing place or just spray it with gunk and take it to a car wash. Also if the latter is the answer then does it matter if the truck is hot. Currently the truck is 30 miles from any car wash so I'm worried about washing it hot. I just realized though I have my pressure washer with me so I could use that. Recommendations?
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Went to dealership today for oil change, they said they didn't see any leaks, didn't see anything wrong, etc. The warning lights haven't went back on since yesterday morning. I'll keep watching, I hope they don't activate again.
By the way, for everyone who had a 2003 Prius, how many miles did you get with your main battery? The dealership said they usually go after 100,000 miles and need to replace.
At 130,000 they also recommend an engine cabin filter and fuel injection cleaning. Seems like an automotive store would be cheaper for the cabin filter?
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I have a 1991 gmc 1/2 ton with 200K on it. Its a 350 engine. The engine has been stumbling for a long time. I've tried many things ...new fuel pump and filter...complete tune up.....checked all vacuum lines..replaced a couple lines...EGR valve.....changed head gasket and intake gasket. Checked the warm up flap inside the air cleaner. I am now very very frustrated.
This stumbling happens often but intermittent also....sometimes worse than other times like the truck is about to stall. The truck seems like its being held back like a loss of power. The truck will begin to stumble so i will pull over and rev it up and it seems to clear itself for a short while then right back to stumbling.
Upon warmup in the morning she seems to run fine until hot. No codes being thrown ...service engine light NOT on. Even while at a stop i will hold the throttle part way and revs at different rpms. I am now at a loss and feel defeated.
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