Dodge :: 1949 - Clicking Under Hood And Power Loss
May 31, 2012
I have a 1949 Dodge B1-B, which was the half-ton model. Still has the original flathead, straight six engine, been rebuilt twice to my knowledge. Three-speed in the floor. I have done most of the restoration myself, aside from putting in another transmission and swapping out the rear differential, but I am by no means a mechanic with adequate diagnostic equipment; I don't even have a stethoscope.
My problem is this: Over the course of about three days, I noticed a clicking/ticking noise from under the hood which gradually got louder. Once it reached its full noisiness, I noticed a marked loss of power across the board. I have also noticed a little bit more vibration that normal, but only enough to make the mirrors shimmy a bit.
Things I have fixed/replaced since the noise started: -New spark plugs -New condenser coil -New distributor cap -Rebuilt carburetor (it needed to be rebuilt long before the noise started) -New glass-packing for muffler
I have also adjusted the timing with the distributor shaft adjuster and the idle screw, but the ticking doesn't go away.
There has always been a leak in the exhaust system where the manifold meets the pipe, and the heat riser is naturally broken, but these things have always been present and there has never been this ticking noise.
I can get it to idle as low as 250-300rpm, so I don't think it is a fuel issue. And from what I can find online, the easy fix would be that the timing chain needs to be replaced. I am getting this checked by a mechanic on Monday.
I have put maybe 100 miles on it since the noise and power loss started, and it doesn't seem to be getting worse over time. So, what might be causing this?
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I have a 2006 Dodge Durango! I have noticed a clicking/knocking noise when I am driving coming from under the hood. The noise used to diminish somewhat the longer that I drove. Now the noise is getting louder and doesn't seem to lessen as my drive time increases. What this could be?
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My 99 F150 4x4, 5.4 triton all of a sudden got very loud and has a loss of power. To me, it sounds like a cylinder is straight open to the atmosphere. I at first thought a spark plug blew out or an injector somehow came dislodged but I checked and everything seems ok. It's coming from the passenger side somewhere but is so loud under the hood I can't tell exactly where.
I took the valve cover off to see if a valve is stuck open or something, but I don't really know what I'm looking at as far as internal engine goes. I turned the crank by hand with a ratchet and the valves seem to follow the cams, but I've never inspected valves before so don't really know what to look for. What could be causing this loss of power and incredibly loud noise?
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I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan, modified for use for someone in a wheelchair. On two occasions now I have been driving and have lost ALL power, including all dashboard lights, signals, power steering and power brakes. Luckily both times I was able to pull over without much problem (aside from problems steering and having to mash really hard on the brakes). Turned off the motor, restarted, and everything seemed fine. The first time this happened I took it to my mechanic who said he was unable to duplicate the problem. The second time this happened (yesterday) was after a severe rainstorm. I can't remember what the weather was like the first time it happened.
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I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey with about 190k miles on it. About a year ago (175k), we had our Transmission replaced with a re-manufactured transmission from the Honda Dealer. Now almost a year later, we were driving home on the freeway (about 4 hrs of highway driving) when we smelled and saw smoke coming from our hood. No lights or indicators came on. We also started losing power and the RPMs were high.
We pulled over in a gas station and popped the hood. A guy who said he was a mechanic took a look and thought it was the radiator host leak...suggested we add water and limp the rest of the way home. We did this and had no issues for the remaining 40 minutes of driving. The next day we brought it to our normal mechanic (not a Honda dealer) and he said it was transmission fluid ...thought that the transmission fluid that was splattered all over our engine/hood/wheels.
When we took it to the honda dealer (since we were still under warranty for the Honda transmission), they looked at it, cleaned it up and ran tests. They are saying that other than being low 2 qts of Trans fluid, they don't see any leaks/problems with the transmission, even after test driving it. They are wondering if the transmission cap was not tight or left off, causing the fluid to overheat, etc (I'm sure it wasn't left off as we have been driving it for months since our last check up without issue).
They say they can't replace it under warranty unless they can confirm some issue in their diagnostic tests. How can we have 2 qts of transm fluid splatter all over our engine and there not be a problem they can diagnose? Did they not give it enough time (e.g 4 hr long distance drive) to heat up enough to replicate the problem? The question now is...is it safe to keep driving the van (after doing a transm flush) or are we just asking for trouble until the next episode? How can I convince the dealer that there is a problem and have the transmission replaced under warranty?
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This has happened to me three times now. The first time was at a stop sign, the second going 70mph on the highway, and the third time at a stop sign. I will be driving and then all of a sudden the engine loses power. The more I push on the gas, the more the engine wants to die. If the engine stays running after I pull over, it idles very rough, and still if I press the gas, it wants to die. This seems to only happen after driving long distances for maybe an hour or so.
When this happens, if I let the car sit for about an hour, it will start up just fine, idle smooth, and drive normally. This is a 1992 Dodge Dynasty with the 3.3L V6, Fuel Injected engine. The car only has 78,000 miles on it and is in excellent condition. It's such a nice car that I would like to figure out what's going on with the engine because I would like to drive it for a lot longer. So far I have replaced the ignition coil pack, the oxygen sensor, map sensor, fuel filter, and spark plugs an wires.
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I replaced the crank shaft position sensor and it fixed everything. According to the Hanes Manual, the crank shaft position sensor is responsible for many things including timing etc. But one thing that caught my eye was that the car would run for a while, then stop completely and not run for a few hours or few days.
All seems good now. From the title post above, you can see that I have multiple issues with the car, or just maybe one causing all the symptoms.First, I am an American living in Norway and getting anything done around here costs an arm, a leg, and an extra pinky so I am going at this the maker way and trouble shooting my problems with the car.The initial problem is this.When the car starts, it starts up fine and has normal power. After driving for a few minutes, the car starts exhibiting the following symptoms.
1. If I step on the gas pedal hard and hold it, it sounds as if the car is drowning, the car loses power, then may back fire, then instantly, it regains power and accelerates. This is by keeping the pedal down.
2. If I feather the pedal, it doesn't lose power and accelerates decently but as soon as I begin to go up hill, it bogs down and does the drowning noise again.
3. I created a video showing this issue : [URL] .....
In the video, the car is idling fine but when I throttle it, it begins to drown, then just picks up right away for no apparent reason.4. Just two days ago, the car will not start after it's been running for a while. If I let it sit, it starts up again.
What it could be.
1. Could my catalytic converter be bad and therefore it somehow creates back pressure after the car warms up?
2. Would it be a fuel injection problem? I put fuel injection cleaner in the tank and it seemed to run a little better.
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I have a 2001 T&C, 3.3L, 4-Speed tranny and around 116K Miles. On occasion, I totally lose power steering for about a second or two. It acts like the engine has stalled and I have to muscle the steering wheel. There no belt squealing, no pump noise, and the serpentine belt is relatively new. PS Fluid level is good. It seems to happen at idle RPM.
Of all the caravans I've had, this is a first.
Now, I'm OK with it as long as I don't let anyone else drive it. I know what to expect, and I can muscle the steering when necessary. Once this happened to my on a highway offramp and I was able to control it with no problems. I suspect it is a problem with the rack, maybe?
My question is this: Is this an indication of something going terribly bad, like the total loss of steering control?
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2005 Dodge Caravan losing power; code read catalytic converter, so replaced but it is still doing same thing. Will drive fine some days, others it loses power or sometimes accelerates when stopping. What else could be wrong?
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'98 Dodge Caravan occasionally loses power and dies while driving. No power steering or brakes. Have changed alternator, battery, starter, computer, and starter switch. What else could it be?
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I have a 2002 V6 Dodge Dakota that just recently lost pretty much all power. It will not go above 20 mph and has a hard time going up any hills. I was driving on the interstate and initially was having a hard time reaching 65 mph. The truck would roar and then shift and then lose power and shift down a gear. Eventually it lost almost all power and is now barely drive-able. It makes a sound like an ATV at low speeds, kind of a deep humming sound. When I punch the gas in neutral in makes the same sound. I have had problems with it stalling before and am at a complete loss as to the cause.
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So my '01 E350 has been fine but tonight when I went to start it I didn't get a WTS light and the SES light was on and there was a weird number on my PHP Hydra that looked like r5 ? This happened a few times back to back so I tried starting it and it just cranked and cranked. Wtf? So I started pushing the button on the chip and all of the sudden I got the WTS light and the hydra flashed, now the chip was on tune 10 instead of 5 where it was when I parked it. I should also note that during these episodes there was a fairly loud clicking/clunking sound coming from the drivers front under the hood when I toggle the key on.. Sounds like maybe a relay? Louder than I recall ever hearing.
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1965 F100 300cid electrical drain...
I am attaching a link to my thread in the 1960's truck forum : [URL] .....
With my limited skill level, I have given up! It could very likely be something I am doing wrong with the diagnoses/troubleshooting.
Basically, When I turn the key to start the truck, I get a clicking solenoid at best and what appears to be a total loss of power. Not even the dome light will come on. The starter is new as is the solenoid.
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There is a clicking sound (about once per second) in the front of the engine compartment of my 2002 Dodge Dakota (2WD, quad cab, manual, no alarm, no electric windows, locks, mirrors, etc.) when the vehicle is off (ignition in the off position - with or without key in ignition). It stops if the battery is disconnected, if the key is in the run position, or if the key is in the position that allows one to use power while the vehicle is off. The interior lights and headlights will flash in sync with the clicking sound if they are on as well. The chime that lets you know that the key is in the ingnition with the door open will miss a beat with the click also. The amps running through the circuit (no lights on) jump up from 27 milliamps to 39 milliamps with the click sound. A possibly related issue is that the headlights no longer stay on for the 30 seconds or so that they used to when I turn off and exit the truck after having driven with the lights on. The clicking and light flashing continued even though I removed each fuse and relay in the box under the hood and the one next to the driver door (the lights stopped when their fuse was removed, but the clicking continued).
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I have a '99 Dodge Stratus V6 with 125,000 miles. When I turn on the car, I can hear a hum when idling. When I start driving, I cannot hear the hum anymore (but maybe it's drowned out by other noises the car makes, or just the engine). It gets higher pitched as it slows down to idle, and a bit lower pitched if I step on the gas lightly. It has been slowly getting louder over the last few months. What could this be due to?
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For the first 10 or 15 minutes after starting the truck I hear a clicking noise under the hood about 1 or 2 clicks per second. It's kind of a mechanical sound, maybe like a pump working. Could this be the Webasto heater working?
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2005 Dodge Caravan - Driving to work this morning. Last mile of a ten-mile trip, there is a steep hill. As I accelerated the car began a rattling sound in the engine compartment. Never heard that before. Also, smelled like something burning. Rattling stopped after topping the hill, but would begin occasionally whenever moderately accelerating, then go away. Oil and temperature gauges read normal.
Got to work, and checked the fluids. At acceptable levels. At lunchtime, decided to try to drive it home. All quiet for the first mile and a half, then rattling started up again. This time, instead of just at moderate acceleration, it also sometimes rattled when coming to a stop or turning. At five miles I had to stop at a store to pick up something. Wasn't gone long, and when I started it back up and drove off, no rattling until about another mile down the road.
Four miles later, the rattling got worse and did not stop. I pulled into a parking lot just as the engine died and smoke poured out from under the hood. The hood release is broken, so it takes some time to pop it. By the time I got it open, the smoke was gone so I did not see where it was coming from. Could not see any obvious problems. Let it sit for five minutes, then it started right up. No noises, and couldn't see any issues while running.
Less than a mile from home, so I decided to go ahead and drive it. The van behaved until about two blocks from the house, then the occasional rattling began again. Made it into the driveway.
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Relay-clicking sound coming from under the hood? at low speed in transition from brake to accelerator.
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My son was driving my 2002 Explorer, 4.0L, 200K+, yesterday, and it started making a clicking noise under the hood. It clicks in time with the engine running, but it doesn't sound internal to me. It's more like it's in some of the apparatus on top of the engine, fuel delivery system. It doesn't sound like a timing chain to me, but I could be wrong. Maybe I'm just trying to be optimistic, but the thing runs fine, and all of the gauges are normal. I'm going to drive it today to see for myself. Any other part besides the timing chain?
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I have a 1995 Rodeo with a clicking noise, probably coming from the ABS pump by the battery under the hood.
If I pull the ABS fuse, will this solve the problem? I realize I wouldn't have ABS then, but that is acceptable.
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My 2003 Mustang convertible (6cyl) has recently started making a loud clicking noise under the hood that seems to come on after driving in stop-and-go traffic or when turning on the a/c. I don't notice it when driving on the highway at a relatively steady speed. The clicking will continue for a minute or so and then stop for a while. I had also noticed a strange melting plastic or chemical smell coming from under the hood whenever clicking has happened. I had also noticed a couple weeks ago that at stop lights, the a/c was blowing warm air even when on the coldest setting. The air would then become cold again after driving for about a minute. What could this problem (or problems) be and can I fix it (or them) myself?
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