Deville :: 1998 Rear Of Car Floats Noticeably At Highway Speeds
Nov 3, 2007
I own a 98 Deville with 125k miles and bad upper rear knuckle bushings, seems common. At highway speeds, the rear of the car floats noticeably and on a rainy road, it is down right dangerous to drive. My logic is that it is a BUSHING! They make all different sizes and surely there is bushing that is the size I need and a way to press out the old and press in the new. I have the right rear off the car now and will pay a visit to my local mom and pop automotive machine shop to see what can be done. Even if they need to bore out the inside diameter of the knuckle to accept an over sized bushing, there has got to be a way.
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I have a 1998 Ford Explorer 4X4 two owner and only 63K miles. All service records including tranny flush. Tranny shifts fine, there are no "clunks" when shifting out of Park.The only symptom is an occasional bump or thud ( maybe more like a jolt )coming from underneath at the rear at highway speeds. Sometimes it is more pronounced than others. I don't believe RPMs change when this happens. Around town is fine and only at constant speeds above 55 which makes it difficult to recreate. I have checked for anything loose underneath ( incl spare tire ) and can't find anything.
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I have been feeling a vibration in my right rear at highway speeds (70+mph) At first i thought that maybe it was a wheel bearing but that would constantly be vibration and it wouldn't be off and on like it is. The car is on coils and a friend mentioned to check and make sure my right height is the same all around. I checked just by comparing the fender well gaps and it does seem as if the right rear is a bit lower. If this is the case, can ur car being a little lower on one side cause this vibration? if so, how?
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I have a 2001 w/94k. New tires and alignment (3k). Recently I have been hearing a humming noise which can start to be heard around 45mph which gets increasingly loud up to 65mph, and then seems to quiet down if I go above 70mph. From the driver's seat it sounds like it's coming from the driver's side rear of the car and from the passenger seat it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side rear of the car. So it definitely sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car. Bringing my car in to get looked at it is difficult with my work schedule, so I thought I would try here first. Around the city there is no noticeable sound and there has been no loss in MPG that I can tell (44-47).
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 Laredo. For approximately the past 7 months there has been a noise coming from the left rear of the vehicle at speeds above approximately 60 mph. The sound is not metallic in nature, it sounds more like a seat belt flapping against something. The frequency is approximately 2 Hz and is very consistent at highway speeds. The driver can seldom hear it apparently due to interior acoustics, but the someone in the passenger seat or the back seat hears it plainly, over a period of time it is very annoying.
In addition, if you touch the left rear interior side panel (in the cargo area) it seems like you can feel a small vibration that matches the sound. I have had the vehicle inspected by Jeep, they find nothing. I have had the left rear interior panel removed to see if there was a problem with the sound system cable bundle that runs through there, but it was OK. We thought it might be the metal gas tank door vibrating in the wind stream, so we taped the door down, but the sound was not affected. What the source of this sound might be?
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I have 18k miles on my IS350 AWD Fsport. Brought it in for shake at highway speeds around 70-80. Dealer called and said steel belts are showing on REAR tires on my ALL Wheel Drive. My mileage is 2/3 highway. Went Hankook Ventus V12s on my 2IS and fronts would wear much faster...
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I have an '04 EX with 6.0. When braking at highway speeds the rear end shudders until I get the truck slowed down some. Around town speeds of 45 or less the problem is almost non-existent. It almost seems to be hydraulic instead of pads/rotor issue. Wouldn't a warped rotor show up at slower speeds as well? I have some good mechanics around, but have never found a great brake shop that I can trust. Go in needing pads and they try and upsell saying this or that is going out.
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At times when going to start our 1998 Caddy you can turn the key and ..... nothing happens, no clicking ... nothing. Everything else works but it is like you are not even turning the key. Is there a weak spot on these cars?
I am familiar with solenoid/starter issues but this seems a bit different for some reason.
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I haven't been needing the A/C til recently due to the heat. When I have passengers in the rear and the A/C is set to just be body flow ( vs. body and feet), the rear blows but is noticeably weaker than the front. When I set it to both body and feet, the rear vents don't have any body flow and it is the same flow as when the rear is just set to feet. I went thru the manual and there doesn't appear to be anything incorrect (I am not in S mode) but the rear is just very weak in general with the controls on full.
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Over the past year I have had to replace 2 window regulators, a front motor mount, rear brake reline, new wheel engine bearing, a Plenum, and on top of all that the paint is peeling on the front bumper and the rear High Brake Lamp is cracked! Any connection between all these repairs or just my really, really bad luck?
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I've noticed the HUD heads up display, shifted downward and noticeable upon start up. Could this be a hardware issue?
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4150 Holley 532BBF float adj issue . I think i have it close, but its so hard to tell because the engine shakes the vehicle so much its hard to set the floats so that it just trickles out of the float holes. (532 kasse P51 heads, big roller cam) Is there an easier way to do it say on the bench?
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I have a 96 Sierra with the 5.7L (R) engine. My a/c used to work fine...no problems. Then it started to only get really cold at highway speeds, plus you could also hear the compressor running (kind of making a clicking sound) when you push the a/c button to turn it on. I thought that the system needed to be recharged, so I bought a recharge bottle at Shucks that has a low pressure gauge on it.
It says that the low pressure port is the larger of the two and will only fit on the low pressure port, but it will only fit on the smaller port (right side port when looking at the compressor). With the a/c on max, the gauge reads 110, so I didn't try to recharge the system.
Then yesterday, my a/c won't even cool at highway speeds. It just blows warm air. The compressor is running (I can hear it, and the clutch turns). I disconnected the switch on the evaporator and the compressor stops, then restarts when I reconnect the switch.
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My car is just 3 months old ( 3300 miles). I started noticing that the car is floating at highway speeds. I feel like the wind is pushing the car to sideways. I started feeling this for few days. Then I verified the tire pressure. Because of the cold weather we had in the last couple of months, I never had chance to check the tire pressure. The pressure was between 37 and 40. I don't know why the dealer didn't set it to right pressure. Then I reduced the pressure to 30 for all the 4 tires. Now I feel the steering is heavy. Couple of questions.
1. Do I need to align the wheels ( I have just 3300 miles).
2. What is the tire pressure you maintain. I have 15" Continental stock tires.
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I have a 1993 3500 Silverado that goes thru all the gears until it gets to the OD but will not go into OD at highway speeds,does not slip as it is shifting, why this is happening. Could it be that all it needs is a fluid & filter change as that is what it needs done now.
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For a while I had been having vibration at between 60-80mph I think I mentioned it in a thread before too. Well anyway when I got my 30,000 mi check up they told me it was probably due to the tires being unbalanced and that my tires were in such bad shape that balancing them woudln't make a difference. So I got to new tires (and my rims as you all remember) from NTB. I took it back to Toyota to get the alignment done after that I got on the highway to see if it was vibrating still and it was so they told me to bring back in.
So today they told me one of the tires that I got at NTB was bad because they couldn't get it balance within the range of the other 3 tires so I took the car back to NTB got into it with the guy there and they eventually saw things my way and put a new tire on the car. So after that I get back on the high way the car starts vibrating right when it hits 60. So I take back to Toyota, the guy tells, I heard him mention to one of the mechanics that it might be a bad axle.
Around 6:30 or so they call me and tell me they are going to take rims and tires off a brand new Camry and put them on my car and the manager who lives far away is going to drive my car home and then back again in the morning to get a better idea of the problem with the car. And to top that off they wanted to charge me 40 bucks for a rental car, but luckily I can drive my dad's Cam to work.
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Bought a 2005 Prius with a perfect history and that recently had its 60k check up at the Toyota dealer. Don't know exactly when the sound changed since I'm not the primary driver, but now it sounds like a jet airplane when it reaches highway speeds and it's hard to hear what we're saying to each other, much less what people are saying over the Bluetooth (although the built in Bluetooth noise cancellation feature is fantastic and the person on the other end of the phone doesn't hear the noisy engine). What could be causing the car to sound like we're taking off at the airport (at any speeds above 40 mph, it seems)? Our passengers comment on the near constant background noise level.
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So my car started to make this noise, hear it more at highway speeds than anything else. It's like a high pitched whine or whistle. When I'm on the accelerator it goes away, soon as I take my foot off the gas it starts up. Just cruising and engage clutch goes away as well. Sounds like coming from rear but hard to tell, hear it at low speeds but not as loud.
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Having trouble with a shimmy at 65-75mph .....
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My 2004 Camry 3.3 V6 (3MZ-FE) has started to run a bit sluggish at highway speeds and sometimes in stop and go traffic.
This P0430 code came on after a recent oil change and flushing my engine with seafoam.
The info I've gotten from my auto parts store is that it's one of the oxygen sensors, HO2S or Bank 2. I believe, if my research is correct, that this sensor is post cat. Looking down from the front of my engine I can see 2 sensors after the cat pretty close to each other.
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2004 Honda Accord sedan, 4 cylinder, approx, 95,000 miles, uses oil rapidly at highway speeds (one quart in 90 minutes), in town driving will not use any oil over 3 to 4 months of monitoring. What the problem is and how to fix it?
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